Sidewinder Repair

This is an old article I wrote back in 2000. However, there may be a lucky few who can still use this joystick. In my case, I ws forced to move on to different sticks. In fact, I was one of many irate 3D Pro users who had no choice. A couple of years after the Sidewinder came out, changes in motherboard design, BIOS settings, or Microsoft software made the 3D Pro joysticks useless for many of us. The most common idea thrown around was that the issue was a "timing problem" between the port/motherboard/Windows software. At any rate, Microsoft apparently could not or would not fix the problem.

This was a great stick. My son and I both played games on a single computer, but I am left-handed and he is right-handed. The symmetrical nature of the SW3D made it the only full function joystick that I have seen that can be used efficiently by left handers. Unfortunately, the usefulness to left handers appears to have been lost on Microsoft. (For awhile I really thought they cared.) The newer sticks have gone over to the prevelant asymmetric design in high end sticks. Undoubtedly the redesign was by some righthanded, polically correct engineering swine in cahoots with some overzealous, shallow marketing type! Oh well, enough soap box stuff.

Our joystick had a tendency to go out every several months. I was a heavy Descent and Mechwarrior player. The outward nature of the problem varied, but in all cases it was due to one of three wires breaking off a sensor boards. The symptoms are usually the inability to move in a certain direction or a constant roll that can't be compensated. In some cases error messages will come up demanding that recalibration is necessary before play. It is a good idea to check a couple of games if possible. Once in a great while we have seen that the problem is a program glitch, and rebooting is all that was needed.

I am no expert in joysticks, so the fix I discuss is is not meant to solve all problems. It merely is a fix for the single most common problem we see with our stick. At this point what do you have to lose? However, remember any damage that you cause to your stick because of this article is your responsibility not mine.

The problem for us has been three fine wires that connect to what I believe is a small optical sensor board below the stick itself. To repair it is fairly simple:

Turn the joystick over and place it in something like a two pound coffee can so you can work conveniently. It might be a good idea to put a towel around the rim of the can so that you don't scratch the base of the joystick. Remove the screws on the bottom of the base. There are three hidden screws: One is under the center label; the other two are under the outboard rubber footpads. Take a thin sharp pointed blade and carefully lift out the pads. The are held in with a sticky glue. You should then see the screws. Place the little stick mode lever ("1" or " 2" position) on the back of base between the sets of dots. Notice how it will have to slip through the notch in the baseplate. Carefully pry up and remove the bottom plate with a thin screwdriver or knife blade. Watch to make sure it clears the mode lever. This exposes a large circuit board. There are two very small philips screws that hold the board to the base. Remove these. There are also four larger philips screws near the center of the board. These screws hold down the speed lever and the optical board that we are after. Remove these screws. Now look at how the throttle lever is positioned on its assembly. Make a little drawing if you must, because there is a good chance that while manipulating everything the lever will come out of its holder. Carefully lift off the circuit board and then the holddown mount. In the middle, where the stick is you will see a small notched board with two tiny sensors on it. There will be three fine wires running under this board from the right. (At least there should be three.) If your "lucky", one of these may be visibly off. At any rate, carefully remove the board, and turn it over to see whats attached and what isn't. Sometimes the wires look attached but aren't or a wire may be partly attached and the frayed portion is shorting against one of the other wires.

If the wires are all attached then you have other problems, and you are on your own. Sorry! However, if there is a broken or frayed wire, you could be back in operation in another ten minutes. With a small soldering iron, resolder whichever wire is off. You may need to strip back a little more insulation depending where the wire broke. When soldering don't leave a long exposed wire, and make sure you remove any wire strands sticking out. The wires are close together and with the violent motions of the stick they may reposition themselves and short against one another.

Try not to overheat the board when soldering, I don't know how well the sensors can stand the heat. The smaller the soldering iron the better. Before starting reassembly, make sure there is no excess solder that can cause a short between adjacent wires. I have had this happen several times; my soldering technique needs work. Replace the board using the notch as a guide. Remember to place the side with the wires down. Replace the mounting cage, and adjust the throttle linkage to make sure it is in its proper mount. Screw in the four large philips screws, place the large circuit board on top and replace he the two small screws. Put the bottom cover plate back and screw it down. Don't forget to put the two rubber feet back on. You should now be ready to run.

If the joystick doesn't work, take it apart again and check your connections to make sure another wire didn't break off or that you didn a bad soldering job. (I run a screwdriver between the wire connections to make sure there is nothing shorting a pair of wires.) I also once reversed the little sensor board when I was working to fast and thinking to slow.

If this helps anyone I would definitely appreciate hearing from you. Its nice to know that someone else can benefit from info like this.

Gary Dyrkacz