| Quirk |
Cause |
Possible
Solution |
Notes |
| Barrel &
Pincushion Distortion |
|
Using Camedia
software select
Image--Filter--Distortion
for automatic correction.
Use Save As--TIFF to keep original image intact and to prevent
quality loss due to JPEG recompression. |
The camera
embeds the settings, including zoom into the JPEG file. The Camedia
software reads these zoom levels and sets the distortion filter to the
appropriate values. |
| Bloom |
highly reflective objects
oversaturate pixels which spill charge over into adjoining pixels.
A CCD quirk |
Bloom cannot be seen through the viewfinder. Once taken, check
your photo in the LCD for signs of bloom.
Move the camera angle slightly.
Avoid sun shots as you can damage not only
your camera's CCD but your eyes as well.
Try using a neutral density filter to help reduce
bloom. |
Typically seen as an extremely
bright, white vertical line when photographing the sun.
Will also radiate from a highly reflective
object or hot spot such as a hood or bumper of a car. |
| Bright Beach Scenes |
|
Spot meter when scene has a lot of
bright water or beach in the background.
Bracket exposure (ev compensation): a series of
photos starting with auto and including +/- ev exposures will insure at
least one good photo.
Use circular polarizer to reduce glare from water. |
Strongly consider leaving the C-2500L home & taking a disposable
camera; sand could get get trapped inside/outside the camera no matter
how careful you are. Also, film cameras perform better with harsh
light and extreme contrast conditions of the beach. |
| Camera Locks/Freezes |
Camera may lock up when taking numerous shots (+/- 100) at one time
without shutting the camera off. |
Reboot by opening battery door to
break contact. |
Can't turn camera off or access any functions.
Make sure batteries have a full charge. |
Card Error when deleting files
in-camera |
SM or CF card which has been
previously loaded onto a Mac desktop via card reader |
Delete all images using the
computer before returning to the camera. Do not delete
images in-camera when using a Mac & card reader. |
Error will occur with or without actually opening folders on the Mac
desktop.
May be caused by the Mac's writing several
invisible files to the card which confuses the camera. The files
can be seen with Norton's Utilities or the Find File (Finder) choosing
"more options." |
Card Error
! -E-
for sm card only |
Poor contact connection in camera sm
slot |
List
of possible solutions |
Camera will not format card
Camera may lock when changing from
"P" or "A" mode to review mode
CompactFlash card is unaffected
SmartMedia card appears fine in card
reader; scandisk shows no bad sectors
|
| CompactFlash
Card Error when using older Kingston brand cards |
Incompatibility with older cards;
newer cards are working error free with the C-2500L. |
Call Kingston
and ask for a newer issue cf card (has a different controller.)
Switch to SanDisk or Hitachi
brand CF Card. |
Can take a
picture and write to the card but when trying to view or transfer image,
a card error will occur. |
| Difficulty photographing
cats/dogs, etc. |
difficult to obtain sharp photo of
animal's fur and accurate eye coloring. |
Use smaller aperture (higher F-stop) for more depth of field.
Focus on whiskers.
Use bounce flash instead of straight on.
Try external flash on a flash bracket above and
away from lens to minimize green eyes.
Try a diffuser on external flash. |
You may also need to determine
whether center (immediate pre-flash) or spot meter (controllable
pre-flash) mode will give you the best results.
Difficulty focusing: focus on vertical line
such as side of face.
Tripod may be handy; eliminates softness due to
camera shake. |
|
Eyes closed
(people & pets) when using center metering
|
Preflash is used
by camera to determine exposure |
Warn subject of
double flash.
Switch to spot metering &
warn subject that picture will be taken on 2nd flash. Spot metering
allows you to pause long enough after the preflash for the subject to
open their eyes before taking the picture.
|
Center metering
puts out a preflash immediately prior to actual flash (when fully
depressing shutter button) causing the subject to blink. You have no
control over the timing of the preflash.
Spot metering puts out a
medium-powered preflash when the shutter is pressed halfway. The final
flash is emitted when fully depressing the shutter button.
|
|
FL-40
overexposure
|
Subject closer
than 5 feet.
Flash intensity is determined
by focal distance.
The flash meters it's output
based on light returned from subject.
|
Use on-camera
flash only.
Can also use wide panel adapter to soften flash.
Be sure to set focus precisely
on subject.
Spot meter mode, focus lock
and reframe before taking photo.
|
Camera will
overexpose if focal point is behind subject.
If you focus on a dark-colored
subject, the camera thinks that more light is needed and fires a
brighter flash. If the focal point is on a light-colored subject,
the picture will be slightly underexposed.
|
| FL-40 causes camera seam by
hot-shoe to separate from camera |
Heavy weight of flash with batteries
and possible poor camera hot-shoe design puts excess stress on camera
seam. |
Do not use the neck strap to carry
the camera when the FL-40 is attached. Always handhold the camera
when the flash unit is attached.
Be sure to check the camera seam for damage
whenever using the FL-40. |
The weight and bouncing of the FL-40 flash when supported by the neck
strap only may or may not be a factor in the opening of the camera
seam. Handholding the camera is a possible precaution but may not
be successful in preventing the seam from separating from the camera's
body.
Note: If you should need to send your
camera in for repair for a split seam and your camera is still under
warranty, call Olympus Service Dept. and not the Repair Dept. which will
charge a hefty fee for repair. |
| Focus difficulty
on 2D objects |
|
Switch to spot
metering. |
The camera has difficulty focusing on items such as resolution charts
even when contrast is high. |
| Focusing difficulties |
|
Lock focus on an object the same distance from the camera as the
subject, then compose your picture & shoot.
Use manual focus to set proper distance setting. |
Autofocus problems with:
low contrast scenes,
subject in very bright light,
subject lacks vertical lines,
fast moving objects,
near & distant objects in autofocus marks. |
Focusing difficulties:
macro shot of a ring (jewelry) |
Subjects with all curves or
horizontal lines may cause focusing difficulties. |
The camera looks for vertical lines to focus on.
Try putting something through the ring to create a
straight line for the camera to focus on. Remove
UV filters, front-light at 45° angle, use tripod, use edge of wide
angle (no zoom) when in S-Macro Mode. |
You may find that the camera may
focus on the stand rather than the object. Putting an object
through the ring will help correct this. |
| Fogging or bright circular area
in center of image when taking remote/tripod shots |
Light entering viewfinder; beam
splitter is used instead of a retractable mirror. |
Cover viewfinder with the lens cap
holder on neck strap |
When taking pictures your eye area blocks light from entering
viewfinder. When using a remote control or a tripod and
standing away from the camera, you need to use an alternate method of
blocking the light. |
| Hot Pixels |
Long exposures |
Use the Dark
Current Filter in Qimage Pro.
Clean-up in an image editing
program (cloning).
|
The hot pixels
(brightly colored red & blue dots) become brighter the longer the
exposure; they may be barely noticeable at 2 seconds, increasing in
intensity as exposure time increases. They completely disappear when
returning to "P" mode. |
| Long Exposure
mode will not take an 8-second exposure |
Camera adjusts
maximum exposure time to ISO setting |
|
Maximum exposure
time at:
ISO 100 = 8 seconds
ISO 200 = 4 seconds
ISO 400 = 2 seconds |
| Manual Mode setting causes tic
marks on control panel to blink |
|
If tic marks are bolded & flashing on the (-) side, adjust
shutter speed to a slower setting. The tic marks will stop
flashing & move to the right indicating the photo will be
underexposed but within the range of the camera's exposure system.
If tic marks are bolded & flashing on the (
side, increase the shutter speed. The tic marks will stop flashing
& move to the left indicating the photo will be overexposed but
within the range of the camera's exposure system. |
Tic marks to the left (-)
indicate underexposure.
Tic marks to the right (+) indicate
overexposure.
Entire line of tic marks bolded & flashing
indicates exposure is not possible. |
| Noise |
Use of ISO 200
& ISO 400.
In-camera sharpening when in normal mode.
|
Expect
increase in graininess and noise when shooting at ISO 200 & a greater
increase in noise at ISO 400.
Use soft mode as your default setting. Apply sharpening (to your
liking) in an image editing program.
Use noise filters in Qimage
Pro to remove unwanted noise artifacts. |
The trade-off
for raising the sensitivity of the sensor is an increase in noise and
graininess.
Normal mode applies in-camera
sharpening which can produce some noise. If it is a problem,
switching to soft mode, which does not apply in-camera sharpening will
decrease noise levels. |
| Picture numbers reset to 0001
when using auto file |
|
Prepare an extra folder in advance
on your hard drive to separate duplicate file numbers.
If you are prompted to overwrite a file because it
already exists, choose "no" and download the duplicate files
in that prepared folder. |
You may never notice the picture number reset to 0001 unless you
download and erase your card several times in one day.
File numbers that reset to 0001 on following days
have a different prefix (date) number which prevents the duplication
even though the numbers have reset back to 0001. |
| Super Macro
Mode--camera unable to focus |
|
Use edge of wide
angle. |
Cannot use
telephoto zoom when in Super Macro mode; camera will not focus or
picture will be blurry. Can use telephoto setting when in Macro mode. |
| Underexposed pictures |
Possible reason:
Spot metering |
Adjust exposure to compensate for darker pictures.
Use a gray card or meter off an appropriate
spot. |
Spot metering sets exposure (of the
spot metered off of) to neutral 18% gray. If metered spot is
lighter or darker, exposure will be wrong. |
| White Balance |
|
Portraits taken in
open shade or under studio lighting conditions:
the manual setting of 4500K produced the most natural skin tone
coloring |
5500 - 7500 K
introduced
increasingly warmer (red & yellow) skin tones.
No problem with white balance for most scenics. |
| Xmas tree photos
are out of focus |
Autofocus has difficulty with branches and tree lights. |
Set camera on a tripod & use
manual focus at proper distance setting.
Try closing the aperture to increase DOF otherwise
much of the tree will be out of focus.
|
|