ENGINE SWAPS



More Power

Rick48CJ2A@aol.com

To who ever can help me,

Here is some back ground about my self. My name is Wesley Smith and I attend the Virginia Military Institute trying to get my engineering degree. About two years ago i bought a 1957 willys jeep\pickup with the 226 flat head engine in it. After getting it home i inverted the axels and added a set of 33x12.5 inch tires, thinking that the truck would have the power to get these tires rolling, but i have found myself to be wrong. I had a problem of burning my pints very quickly, but i found that it was a problem with the coil that i installed. I have also converted the electrical system over to a 12volt system. Now to my question in hand, Is their any way i can add some power to the 226 if so please tell me were i can by the parts that i would need to add the power. If not could you tell me a motor that i could replace with the 226 and would mont in fairly easy. Thank you for your time and i hope to here from you soon.

Thanks Wes

Wes, I'm afraid you are entering the path of constant modification. You see the L-226 was a strong tourquee engine for it's time but it wasn't designed to run those big tires. I have seen some discussion about adding on super chargers and turbos but the expense gets pretty high, pretty fast and it takes a lot of custom work.

Next solution, install a small block from some other vehicle. Mine has a small block Chevy. Now come the problems you will encounter if you do this.

1. Cooling System - The stock cooling system is adequate for the L-226 but you start pushing the envelope when you install the small block. Because the L-226 sits off to the drivers side, so does the radiator. The water pump and fan are also installed lower on the small block. This means that the small block will have to run an electric fan. Preferably one that can move 2,200 CFM or you will be over heating all the time. You may even have to install a bigger radiator.

2. Power - The drive train on a stock pickup is not built to handle the power of a small block. When you moved to the larger tires, you required more power to be added to the front of the tranny to get them moving. Aside from the added strain on the T-90 and model 18 transfer case (Under these harsh conditions you should install a T-18 and a heavier transfer case) you have compounded the problem by doing the axle swap. This increases the driveshaft angles creating more stress on the U-joints. However, since this is a truck the angles won't be as bad as they would be in a CJ. If you are light on the pedal, the drive train may last a long time. Mine has, but it hasn't been exposed to heavy conditions.

3. Steering - On my truck they had to modify the steering to accommodate the V-8 but there are others on the list that installed them without doing the steering mod and they work just fine. However, when you modified the suspension height you also needed to correct the pitman arm angle. Failure to do this can cause serious bump steer when you hit road obstacles. I've asked around and it seems the weight of the 226 is around 1,100 lbs and a small block Chevy weighs about 800 lbs. This means there is about 300 lbs less on the front end than there was before. This lighter front end makes the truck ride very rough when it hits bumps. I've thought about installing a set of springs from an F-134 truck to see if it softens the ride.

I've been accused of being a "dooms sayer" when it comes to major mods but I'm not. I just want you to know what you are getting into before you start. If you really want more power then don't be afraid to add the V-8. I've had some of the problems above but I have loved having the extra power. Engine to tranny adapters are available at Advanced Adapters. I hope this helps.

Rick S (TX)


Top


Radiators and Cooling

Subj: Re: [WT] Buick V6 Cooling
Date: 8/16/99 3:55:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From: hollow@airmail.net (Merl)
Reply-to: WillysTech@onelist.com
To: WillysTech@onelist.com, astarcher@columbiaenergygroup.com

From: Merl

astarcher@columbiaenergygroup.com wrote:
[snip]
> What I really need is some hard core information on how to size automobile
> radiators. Any engineers out there know of any websites?

Not a website, but I'll try to transcribe something. This is out of
the old Novak Jeep engine swap instruction manual, just the interesting
bits though...

Guidelines to Radiators and Cooling

The following informatin...[snip]

An often overlooked area is the conditions of the engine itself. [snip]

Overheating should not be a problem on a conversion if some basic rules
are followed. Most people realize that radiator size is relative to good
cooling. What may not be realized is that the core area in square inches
is much more important than core thickness. As a general rule, it takes
a minimum of 50 square inches *more* core area than displacement in
cubic inches of the engine to be cooled. Example: A 283 c.i.d. Chev V8
requires 283 sq. in. of core area PLUS at least 50 additional sq. in. of
core, for a total of 335 sq. in. This could be an 18"x19" core (342 sq.
in.) or any other height by width combination to end up with the number
of square inches needed. The actual size or configuration (crossflow
or vertical flow) is not important as long as it will fit the area
available and is big enough for the engine.

Many times a radiator will be found that...[radiator modification ideas
snipped]

The relationship of the core to the fan is quite important also. The core
should be parallel to, and no more than 1" away from the fan and should
be centered on the fan. The core cannot be mounted to the back of the
grille as there must be space for air to spread out so it can flow through
the core. While on the subject of fans, we have yet to see an engine
conversion that cools satisfactorily *under all conditions* with an
electric fan. For that matter, there may be *some* conditions of use
that will result in above regular operational temperatures no matter
what conditions prevail.

By the time air has passed through three sets of radiator tubes it has
just about reached the temperature of the coolant and additional thickness
does little to improve cooling. This varies with ambient temperature
and speed of airflow. It simply means that core area is much more
important than core thickness. Another important factor related to
airflow is mounting or carrying items on the front of the vehicle.
Most Jeeps have a rather limited grille opening area. License plate,
oil coolers, driving lights, toolbox, winch, etc. will usually cause
enough turbulence to disturb airflow at some speed or other and this
could result in overheating.

There may be situations that will result in less than ideal radiator to
fan locations and these can be solved by shrouding the fan. This causes
a vacuum which improves airflow particularly at low vehicle speed.
Actually a fan shroud is a good idea under any condition.

There may be many suitable radiators for any swap. This info should
help you choose one that may be available, rather than suggesting some
particular one that may be hard for you to find.

Cooling system operational temperatures vary alo. "Running hot" in one
persons application may be normal temperature to another. In other words,
an open (or non-pressurized) cooling system will, of course, boil
at 212 degrees F at sea level. This same system will be normal at
195-220 degrees F with a 15-16 pressure cap and 50-50 mix of glycol
coolant and water.

Another [temp guage accuracy stuff snipped]

A coolant overflow recovery system should be used on pressurized cooling
systems to make sure they stay full of coolant at all temperatures.

[end of transcription]

Merl, Tejas


Top


Created...5/7/99

Updated...9/8/99