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Painting Tips |
A painting area is a tough thing to build. There are already so many good guides out there that one wonders, why be redundant? However, I like to paint and have stumbled across some tips and tricks that are worth sharing, so that’s the approach to this section.
I have been wargaming since September of 1998; not a long time in comparison to others that share this hobby. During that time I have painted several hundred figures for one primary goal: to play games. My first efforts were, let’s just say, less than stellar. However, I received steady encouragement from a bunch of people. Here is the essence:
So with that in mind; research, learn and practice different painting techniques. Learn basic brush control, learn when to use the side of a brush rather than the point or when to use a flat brush, instead of a round. Learn when to use the surface tension of the paint to drag a crisp line, or use the raised surfaces of the figure to set paint on a detail. Finally experiment with the different media and see how they react. Learn what is meant by washes, inks, stains, wet-brushing, and dry-brushing and use them. In other words, practice and experiment.
Get inspiration from other hobbies, model railroading for example, has volumes about painting technique for a weathered effect. Landscape and flower painting have illustrated books on brushstrokes and what is the purpose of a particular brush shape. Doll-makers have plenty of tips for painting faces and eyes. And even if the scale is too large for our hobby, the techniques described still apply.
I still remember the trepidation I felt when sitting down to paint my first bag of figures (Napoleon Infantry). I painted them in assembly line fashion with basic block colors. I didn't have the skill to paint the pack and bandolier straps, so they were just left as part of the blue jacket color. You know what? The gamers in the group didn't care, it was just more painted lead that could expand the number of battalions we could put on the table. They are still in play and I am glad that I have kept them as is. They are a baseline to evaluate my progress. Now I believe that if the sculptor can create an interesting detail, I should be able to paint it.
So come on, they are just toy soldiers. Start painting and keep painting! It will improve!
I use acrylic paints over a black primer. Typically the work is done from dark colors to light colors using wet-brush techniques for the dark base color coat. The work is then done with dryer and dryer brush techniques as I add highlights. I also paint the inner-most details first and work outward as the figure is completed. This way I can slop a little paint on something that will be painted later. Finally, some inks or stains will be added to set the shadows once again or give the details a little character. If this seems familiar – come on along.
I build eyes using a layered paint technique. It is easier to achieve small thin lines by letting a little of a dark color show under the edge of a subsequent layer rather than trying to hold a razor sharp brush-point steady in a tight place. The lower eyelashes will illustrate this point.
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Prepare and prime the figure black. Paint the face a dark flesh "shadow" color. Using a "0" round brush fill the eye socket with an off white. Leave a little of the dark color in the corner of each eye socket near the nose. Let dry. |
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Take a clean "00" round brush, moisten it and shape it to a fine sharp point. Dip just the tip in a dark color for the iris. (black, navy, dark green or burnt umber) Draw a thin vertical line from eyebrow to cheek, across each eye where the iris will be. |
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Take the "0" brush again, clean it, moisten it and form it to a thin chisel shape. Dip it in black and slide it sideways on the cheek just under the eye. Form the shape of the eye by covering the errant white and iris colors with the black paint. The lower eyelashes are forming. |
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Believe it or not, you are almost done. Clean the brush, moisten it and shape it into a thin chisel again. Dip the point in the dark flesh color and slide it sideways on the cheek again. This time don’t get so far under the eye, let a little of the black show through and you have the bottom eye lashes formed. |
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Repeat step 3 with the dark flesh color for the upper eyelids. Turn the figure over to gain easier access to the sculpting. If you look at the figure now, the eyes have been formed using about 5 or 6 brushstrokes per eye. Finally, clean and use the "00" brush shaped to a fine point to add black eyebrows. This phase is done, finish the face to your liking. |
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The finished figure |
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Here is a speed painting technique that was discussed on the GASLIGHTrules group. It is a quick way to create figures. The cannibal is an example where dipping works well. The two shots of Sarah Swithington show where it is not the best solution. She came out much too dark, especially the flesh. That one hurt! I had to repaint her face and the second one wasn't as delicate as the first.
So beware, this is great for block painted, dark skinned figures. But if you want to use for delicate figures, don't dip! Use a brush to apply the stain where it is needed.
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Block Color 1. Laying in blocks of color for the figure. Since the stain will be a dark walnut, the inital colors are lighter than normal so they will be able to darken.
Block Color 2. The inital colors have been set into place, notice that the colors are still bright, for example the skulls have been painted an off-white. Also, there hasn't been any attempt to dry-brush for detail. This figure is ready for dipping.
Dipped Cannibal. This shows the result from submerging the figure in the pint can of Minwax. Literally. Once removed from the can the excess stain was shaken off. (Minwax Wood Finish Special Walnut 224)
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Before and After. This is a case where the dipping technique did not work as desired. The results were very dark, and considerable time was spent in rescuing the figure. The face and hands were repainted, and the skirt and jacket were rubbed with anything that would brighten them. |
A big disadvantage of using this type of stain is the length of time required for drying. There have been figures that still feel tacky after two days. A sepia ink will deliver very similar results and dries quickly.
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Painting Tips |