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Control Panels
After having created 2 new control panels from
scratch to fit my JAMMA cabinet, I
realized that they're a lot of work! So, when I built my MAME
cabinet, I constructed a box that could use my existing control
panels. Any of the following panels work on either
machine. The player 1 and player 2 standard controls (2
joysticks, up to 6 buttons, player 1 and 2 start buttons) use a 9
and 12 pin molex connector. The JAMMA-plus "kicks"
harness uses a 6 pin molex connector for the extra 3 buttons per
player. The LS30 rotary joysticks each use a 15 pin molex
connector.
2 SNK LS30 rotary joysticks, 6 horizontal
microswitch pushbuttons (3 per player), Player 1 and 2 start
buttons - horizontal microswitch
Overlay is "art paper" from Dick Blick attached with 3M
77 adhesive spray. Has plexiglass. 3/4" particle
board with melamine on both sides. Joystick pockets routed
out to 3/8" depth.
The LS30's were evidently meant for metal control panels.
Even with the joysticks recessed on the back side, they don't have
much height on the front side. I don't have the caps on them
because I wouldn't be able to insert the cap removal tool due to
the low clearances.
2 Happs "Super" joysticks (8-way), 12
horizontal microswitch pushbuttons (6 per player), Player 1 and 2
start buttons - horizontal microswitch
Overlay is "art paper" from Dick Blick attached with 3M
77 adhesive spray. Has plexiglass. 3/4" particle
board with melamine on both sides. Joystick pockets routed
out to 1/4" depth.
2 8-way Happs Competition joysticks, 6 horizontal
microswitch pushbuttons (3 per player), Player 1 and 2 start
buttons - horizontal microswitch
This is the original Double Dragon wood control panel from my
Taito cabinet. Overlay is a new reproduction.
3/4" particle board. Joystick pockets routed out to
1/4" depth. Has plexiglass. Has T-molding.
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Control
Panels
