Tech

Raised Breathers

I like trails with water crossings. In order to protect my axles, tranny, and transfer case from getting water in them, I raised the breather tubes and re-located them to under the hood. I used 2 K&N crankcase breather filters (available at auto performance stores) and routed the 1/4" hose from the axles and t-case beside the frame rails and up to the 2 filters located in the corner of the engine compartment on the driver side. The front axle breather is located just above the housing. The t-case breather is located on the driver side in front between the frame and tranny.

Parts:

• 2 K&N Crankcase Breather Filters Pt. #62-1320
   
• 25 Feet of 1/4" hose & a Few Hose Clamps
   
• 2 Brass 1/4" Tees Napa Pt. #730-2947
   
• 2 Brass 1/4" Hose Connectors Napa Pt. #05705B-1598
   
• Small scrap of angle iron for bracket 1 1/2" x 1/16"

Sway Bar Quick Disconnects

To gain a better ride off-road as well as performance, I made some cheap sway bar disconnects for my front. I bought 2- 1/2" grade 8 bolts and machined them down a little to fit. I then used a hairpin and a washer to secure them. The stock bolts are 18mm when you go to replace them with the new quick disconnects. Total cost for this project was $5

Manual Transmission Shift Rail Plugs

The manual transmissions have rubber plugs in the shift rails that need to be replaced when you get transmission oil spots in the driveway. I took on the task of changing the plugs on my 91 Explorer and I ran into a few other things while changing the three plugs. First, I printed out the instructions. Following the directions, I removed everything. I found it easier to remove the shifter to pull the carpet back. It is only 3 extra screws. Am I glad that I did! Anyway, I took out the old plugs and put the new metal plugs in. After doing this, I replaced the shifter bushings. The rubber bushing where the ball (not the knob) of the shifter moves around was in a million pieces. I had to replace that being careful not to drop any pieces into the tranny. The kit is available at Ford only and it is polyurethane. I also found that the rubber seal of the plate that the shifter screws to the transmission with was cracked. This is available at Ford or a tranny supply store. I replaced that then put everything back together. While I had the carpet pulled back and the console removed, I ran 2- 14ga. wires to the center console for future 12-volt use.

Ford Shifter Bushing Part Numbers:
E8TZ 7Z120-A Washer
E8TZ 7E018-A Spacer
E8TZ 7228-A Bushing
These may not be exact but should be enough to get you started.

Painting the Corners

Many early model Explorers suffer from faded or flaking paint on the corner of the rear hatch. I wanted to keep mine looking nice so I decided to paint it. I used some fine steel wool to buff it then wiped it down with a damp paper towel. Next I carefully masked off the area with tape and newspaper. I used Wal Mart $0.99 gloss black spray paint. I was really happy with how well it looks and how long it has held up.

Electric Box for my Lights

The addition of more off-road lights to my Explorer meant adding more wires. I already had too many wires under the hood so I decided to make a cleaner install for my lights. I went to an office store and bought a plastic 3x5 index card holder. I then bought some circuit breakers, relays, rubber grommets, 90 degree female spades, a small terminal block, a fuse tap and some wire. I drilled several holes in the box then mounted the 4 relays and 2 circuit breakers. I installed those using small bolts. Once those were in I drilled holes where the wires would exit from the box and installed rubber grommets in them. Be careful not to crack the box. I cut all the wires to length and then made a bracket for the box using 1" strap iron. I installed it between the overflow bottle and the vacuum chamber. I ran some thick gauge wire from the battery to the box and then to the 2 circuit breakers. I tapped the radio fuse and brought power to the terminal block behind the driver kick panel. I routed the power to the switches and then to the relays so the lights will only be on when the key is on. Follow the instructions provided by the light manufacturer for the rest of the install. It works great and makes for a clean install. If I were to do it again I would buy a cast aluminum "project box" from an electrical supply store. These boxes are much more durable and have an o-ring sealed top.