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Spaying/Hypothyroid/Advice?
Posted by Dana on 12/30/1999, 2:52 pm
Hi to all...
One of my females will be spayed at the end of January, as she has been diagnosed as Hypothyroid...(a heartbreak)(autoimmune thyroiditis)She is four and a half...but will be closer to 5 years old at the time of the surgery...
Is there anything special that I should do to prepair her for this surgery??? Should I be trying to boost her immune system??? Or is that not recommended for the high antibody type thyroid disease??? as the immune system is "overactive/hyper" already?
I've never had a hypothyroid bitch spayed before so I'm a little nervous...and I want to do the very best I can for her...she is such a LOVE....a real sweetheart!!!!
Her "signs" of the disease seemed to be weight gain/lethargy/and a few skin problems(occassional acne)...Other than that she is in good health...I have also managed her weight now down to 88lbs...since she has been on thyroid meds. She never seemed to have problems with infections ie...ear infections...once in a while an infected "pimple/acne"...But I am still scared for her !!! I think that she hasn't had more symptoms because of the Natural food/with raw fruits and veggies/ I do give her...and the supplements too...she's on Solid Gold...and I give a good one a day plus vitamin Ester c 1000 mg...(500 a. m. and 500 p.m.) also, 400 I.U. of vitamin E once a day.
I give cottage cheese...one to two teaspoons daily and yogurt several times a week to keep her calcium levels up as I do know that sometimes the calcium levels fluctuate when they are on the meds...Hers
did in the beginning but are fine now!!!
Also, any post surgery advice...supplements or diet???
Your thoughts would be deeply appreciated...Thanks so much...
Take care
Dana
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Re: spaying/Hypothyroid/Advice? MaryMc?
Posted by MaryMc on 12/30/1999, 9:57 pm , in reply to "spaying/Hypothyroid/Advice? MaryMc?".
B-vitamins are very important for hypothyroid dogs. So add a B-complex 50 capsule to her daily regimen of vitamins. You can't overdose on these water soluble vitamins and this is good. You also can't keep them in there for long. I also give my dogs one or two raw egg yolks per week as a good source of biotin and lecithin.
Also remember that hypothyroid dogs (and people for that matter) cannot convert beta-carotene over to Vitamin A. So you have to include a source of vitamin A in the diet. I give the dogs 1/4 pound of liver per week. You can use chicken or beef liver.
I also gave our Ayesha a bladderwrack infusion when I first had her spayed. She needed the boost to her system while she adjusted to the lack of hormones. Now it is something I give now and then.
Plenty of EFAs are needed for hypothyroid dogs. Can't have too many. I give them ground flax daily and fish twice per week. I use jack mackerel or sardines packed in mineral water. You need to make sure to provide daily EFAs.
And last but not least digestive enzymes. If you are giving the homemade diet raw you really don't need many. But if you provide cooked meat then you need to add digestive enzymes.
And selenium is important. What is the multi-vitamin you give providing in the way of selenium?
And finally, magnesium is important for hypothyroid dogs. Make sure you are including that in the diet in some way.
Do you give any grains? Look at investigating the grains you feed. One of our dogs had auto-antibodies when on a kibble with wheat. We took him to a wheat free diet and then zero autoimmune antibodies with the full panels (MSU) coming back with "quantity not sufficient to measure" for his levels. Quite a change for merely taking him off wheat! No thyroid meds and no other support. Just wheat free diet. So look at the grains you feed. My dogs are on grain free diets and I love their thyroid panel results!
That is about all I can think of off the top of my head.
Mary
--------------------------------------Don't Misunderstand
Posted by MaryMc on 12/30/1999, 10:02 pm , in reply to "Re: spaying/Hypothyroid/Advice? MaryMc?".
I wanted to be clear. NONE of my dogs are hypothyroid. I have full thyroid panels run on them yearly and they have always been good to great. The one dog I mentioned was just slightly high but not what I have seen from some hypothyroid dogs. All his other levels were ideal, however. He was allergic to wheat, which we later confirmed and if we had kept feeding him wheat he most likely would have gone hypothyroid as the antibodies damaged his gland. He remained thyroid normal with no antibodies til the day he died.
Just needed to clarify!
Mary
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Re: spaying/Hypothyroid/Advice?
Posted by Dana on 12/31/1999, 2:25 am , in reply to "Re: spaying/Hypothyroid/Advice?".
Hi Mary...
Thanks so much for your reply.!!!
there are some B vitamins and Biotin also in the one a days...But not too sure of the selenium/and Magnesium...? I'll have to look into it more...as I threw away the can which listed the ingredients( to put into a smaller container) I periodically give Lecithin granules...(I
sprinkle in the food...)
I too give Salmon/ or Tuna...No or Low salt But mostly I give fresh salmon...cooked... a few times a week. Maybe I should give it raw???
Do you give the chicken and beef livers raw??? Is it organic chicken? or is what the supermarket has OK??? (I've always heard that the liver stores/filters poisons from the body and should be eaten sparingly?) What do ya think about the new radiation zapping they are doing to meats for bacteria?
I also use Prozyme (for enzyme supplementation)
I know some people give sea meal or kelp for thyroid...I guess for the Iodine levels...But I'm not so sure about it... I knew a girl (human) who took Iodine supplements and she "fried" her thyroid gland!!! She had a heck of a time!!!
I use to give some kelp...But I don't anymore...as I don't know for sure just what the correct levels are for dogs...?
Isn't there amounts of Iodine in the diet already??? And wouldn't giving them additional be harmful and "screw up" the normal levels...???
The Solid Gold ingredients are WHEAT FREE, also NO soybeans, corn, animal fat, poultry fat, or by-products, No salt, sugar, or preservatives... The first ingredients listed are: Lamb meal, ground Millet, ground brown rice, barley, menhaden fish meal, canola and flaxseed oils, rice bran, garlic, blueberries...yucca Schidigera extrcat, carotine, Iron proteinate...etc...there is some Vita E, Vita A, Zinc, folic acid, Maganese proteinate...etc...But once again I don't know Exactly how much...
The only wheat she gets is in a few of the low calorie cookies I give...I can't even find any cookies without "wheat" in them...
All seem to be made of the wheat.
I wish I could say that my girls thyroid problem was because of an allergy to wheat but she is and always has been basically fed very little wheat... I went to a Holistic vet who seemed to think that vaccines may play a part in setting off the antibiodies to attack the thyroid...and some dogs may just be genetically programed for it too...weaker immune systems...I don't believe they know for sure yet...
Perhaps it will be "discovered" soon... in the New millennium !!!
Also, forgive me my ignorance...but what exactly is a "bladderwrack infusion"?
Thanks again and I appreciate your patience and knowledge...thanks for sharing!
Sincerely,
Dana
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Thyroid Advice
Posted by MaryMc on 12/31/1999, 11:33 am , in reply to "Re: spaying/Hypothyroid/Advice?".
Dana,
I will address each of the items one at a time. I post in case this might provide food for thought for others that read.
<< there are some B vitamins and Biotin also in the one a days...But not too sure of the selenium/and Magnesium...? I'll have to look into it more...as I threw away the can which listed the ingredients( to put into a smaller container) I periodically give Lecithin granules...(I sprinkle in the food...)>>
I need to clarify by stating that I don't use a multi-vitamin. Some do and quite successfully. My reasoning is that I purchase only human grade vitamins for my dogs at health food stores or through Vitamin Shoppe. The multi-vitamins in those places are balanced for humans and the proportions are not correct for dogs. Why not use dog multi-vitamins? I used to but started reading labels carefully. I am not at all pleased that they use synthetic vitamins for the dog supplements. I have not found a good multi-vitamin that uses natural forms of the various supplements. The synthetic forms are not as absorbable nor as easily used by the dog's body as are the natural forms. Additionally, over supplementation of any form always has risk of toxicity but that risk increases greatly with synthetic forms. So I personally opt to give each what they require using natural sources of vitamins that I give as a myriad of separate vitamins. It is more time consuming and more hassle for me, but, I do it for my dogs. If folks don't read up a lot of vitamins and nutrition for dogs then I would recommend they NOT take this route and give a multi-vitamin. I am only stating what has worked well for me, and what I started doing only after reading a number of books on canine nutrition.
<< I too give Salmon/ or Tuna...No or Low salt But mostly I give fresh salmon...cooked... a few times a week. Maybe I should give it raw???>>
Fish is the exception for me. I don't give that raw. I am not brave enough to try that. Some people have fed raw fish successfully (some husky breeders I know of) but this is not a route I take. I just don't trust the source of fish I can find enough to warrant the risks of feeding fish raw.
<< Do you give the chicken and beef livers raw??? Is it organic chicken? or is what the supermarket has OK??? (I've always heard that the liver stores/filters poisons from the body and should be eaten sparingly?) >>
I give the livers raw. I do give liver sparingly. It IS NOT something I give everyday and not something I believe you should give daily due to the potential for vitamin A toxicity. Additionally, if you can find veal liver instead of beef that is best. The toxins do not build up as much until the animals are older, so using the liver of young animals is always better. Chickens are butchered fairly young so their livers will not have as many stored toxins. I do give beef liver but when I have found veal liver I use that.
<< What do ya think about the new radiation zapping they are doing to meats for bacteria? >>
It affects humans and not just dogs. We all suffer the consequences. Using organic meats is better but we all can't afford to do that especially for multiple dogs. We still need to go get that organic Barbado lamb and this will be the best course for us. Organic lamb, but on the hoof! But I believe that feeding the raw natural diet made from human grade meats purchased in your local supermarket is far superior to using commercial dog foods where you don't know what type of meat the dog is getting and what conditions the animal was in before it died. So even though the radiation of meats is a concern it is a lessor evil than feeding commercial dog foods where you have absolutely no control over what they eat.
<< I know some people give sea meal or kelp for thyroid...I guess for the Iodine levels...But I'm not so sure about it...I knew a girl(human) who took Iodine supplements and she "fried" her thyroid gland!!! She had a heck of a time!!! I use to give some kelp...But I don't anymore...as I don't know for sure just what the correct levels are for dogs...?>>
You do have to be careful with kelp. Overdosing is as dangerous as not providing any iodine at all. You do get some iodine in the fish but that is about it. I do not add salt or any other iodine sources to their diet. So I do add kelp. For my 65 to 75 pound dogs the recommended dosage level is 2 to 3 teaspoons of the granulated kelp per day. I do not exceed this. On days I give them PYFFY snacks (written about it before) I do not give kelp. I also give selenium. There is more problems with iodine if it is not balanced with selenium. There have been a number of studies conducted in foreign countries that have shown there are more problems with toxicity of one or the other of these nutritional sources when not properly balanced with levels of the other. You might want to familiarize yourself with some of these studies. At any rate, I give 2 to 3 teaspoons of granulated kelp and 100 to 200 mcg of selenium daily to my dogs. The selenium and iodine levels both vary for my dogs depending on their age and sex. Males need more selenium and older dogs need higher levels of both.
<< The Solid Gold ingredients are WHEAT FREE, also NO soybeans, corn, animal fat, poultry fat, or by-products, No salt, sugar, or preservatives...>>
One of the reasons I recommend Solid Gold products even though I don't use them myself (have used them for a rescue puppy in the past). They are human grade and free of other undesirable ingredients. So this is a good choice.
<< The first ingredients listed are: Lamb meal, ground Millet, ground brown rice, barley, menhaden fish meal, canola and flaxseed oils, rice bran, garlic, blueberries...yucca Schidigera extrcat, carotine, Iron proteinate...etc...there is some Vita E, Vita A, Zinc, folic acid, Maganese proteinate...etc...But once again I don't know Exactly how much...>>
Now in a natural diet I prepare I would be careful with millet and canola. I would not give canola period. Canola is made from rape seed which has been shown to suppress the thyroid. Cases have been reported in cattle fed rape seed of severe thyroid conditions leading to severe health problems. Of course, these were cattle fed this food item in large quantities and for prolonged periods. But after reading up on rape seed I just don't use canola products in my house anymore. Also not a good oil for those worried about AHD symptoms which I have to worry about in my son. So I don't buy it and I don't use it. It is also not the best source of EFAs. The flaxseed oils are much superior. Millet is also a goitrogen. This is a grain that must be thoroughly cooked and overcooked to inactivate the goitrogenic effects. I have fed it when I fed grains in the past. But I cooked it until it was literally mush. I don't know how Solid Gold process their kibble so I can answer to how well cooked the millet is. I just through this in here so you would know about this for future reference.
<< The only wheat she gets is in a few of the low calorie cookies I give...I can't even find any cookies without "wheat" in them...All seem to be made of the wheat.>>
This is because wheat gluten is what helps the cookies stay together. I don't use any of these bribe cookies. One of my dogs is gluten intolerant (not an allergy but a food intolerance). I stay away from gluten grains for all of my dogs as a result. I would find other recipes and make cookies. We use liver or beef hearts for treats when showing our dogs. You might try the same. The beef hearts might be better as you don't have to worry about using them daily. It is a good source or proteing which can be fed daily. Unless of course, your dog is allergic to beef! Also try sliced veggies or apples. One of my girls will bait very well with sliced cucumbers. The other loves sliced apples. Find a healthy alternative that provides the same effect.
<< I wish I could say that my girls thyroid problem was because of an allergy to wheat but she is and always has been basically fed very little wheat...>>
You have to eliminate it completely for at least three weeks and then challenge her with a bit of pasta after that period to ensure she is indeed not allergic to it. Even at very low levels, which our dog was getting as the wheat was way down on the ingredient list of the kibble, it can cause some subtle problems. So it is worth refraining from the cookies and all wheat for a while, then challenge her on it after three weeks off. This way you will know for sure one way or the other.
<< I went to a Holistic vet who seemed to think that vaccines may play a part in setting off the antibiodies to attack the thyroid...and some dogs may just be genetically programed for it too...weaker immune systems...I don't believe they know for sure yet...>>
It does play a part. The work that W. Jean Dodds, DVM has done have shown that out. We only vaccinate our dogs with killed virus vaccines which are much better than giving modified live vaccines. Make sure you only vaccinate with killed virus vaccines. Additionally, don't use combinations that include lepto and some of the other items like corona virus that are not alway really necessary. Our vet only recommends DHPP and that is all we give.
Additionally, as your girl is hypothyroid you will want to switch to daily filarabits for heartworm prevention rather than one of the monthly products. Ivermectin does have adverse effects on the endrocine system and the thyroid. So if your dog is hypothyroid or there is a family history of hypothyroidism it is wisest to use daily filarabits for prevention.
<< Also, forgive me my ignorance...but what exactly is a "bladderwrack infusion"?>>
It is an infusion recommended by David Hoffman (President of the National Institute of Medical Herbalists) for humans with hypothyroid conditions. I modified it slightly based on advice over some of the ingredients for dogs given by Gregory and Mary Wulff-Tilford (authors of Herbs of Pets and herbalists). Bladderwrack it a type of seaweed that is the one shown to stimulate the thyroid the most. I can certainly send you the details on it but it is in a Word97 document. Let me know if you are interested in giving this infusion instead of giving granulated kelp.
Hope this has helped.
Mary
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Re: Thyroid Advice
Posted by Dana on 12/31/1999, 3:12 pm , in reply to "Thyroid Advice".
Dear Mary...
As always THANK YOU !!! It is so good of you to answer so thoroughly...and it's very much appreciated...
My girl is Such a sweetheart, I know you would fall in love with her too...everybody does...and knowing that she will benefit from all the advice is a blessing for both of us!!!
I too use human grade vitamins, but the one a day supplement is in powder form from WOW
BOW distributors...(where I get the Solid Gold ) I will order a bit more and thoroughly check the ingredients...it's been a while since I looked them over.
Both my females were purchased from breeders after 9 /10 weeks and I didn't have ANY say in the vaccines...they had already had three sets...Bummer!!!!
But if I do ever breed...I agree with you 100% about the vaccine types...and I do believe that the breeder who I co own my second b-tch with also agrees.
It may be too late for the "bladderwrack"
with the hypothyroid girl...as the last blood work up showed her thyroid gland to be already "distroyed"...at least that's what the vet said(not holistic).
I don't think my Mac will take a word97 document...but if you think there's still a chance the baldderwrack could help her...
perhaps I could visit a website or get a book about it??? (I don't want to trouble you any more with this...as you have been so kind to respond)
I have also agonized about giving the filarabits...We live with a river in the back and there are TONS of rotten mosquitos.
And sometimes my hypothyroid girl will ocassionally not eat her "pills" or skip a meal . But I believe that now after spaying her, in the Spring I will give the Filarabits...since she will be hormonally mixed up for a while, and her immune system shouldn't have any more "bombardment" so to speak...
I also intend to make some dietary changes
gradually...based upon our discussions and that of others too that have posted...
Thank you again...especially for keeping this board going!!!!
And....Have a great New Millennium !!!!
Sincerely,
Dana
Garlic and Onions (Encore Presentation)
<< I thought it was just raw onions that are bad for dogs. I thought someone said that cooking neutralized the bad chemical in the onions. Yes, or no? >>
No the cooking does NOT neutralize the offending element in onions.
I am glad you chose this topic as I just found a very nice write-up on onions in this new book I just bought (yes, another one). In the book Natural Pet Care by C.J. Puotinen the following is found:
"Because their sulfur compounds and volatile oils are so beneficial to human health, many herbalists and nutritionists assume that garlic, onions, chives, shallots and other pungent members of the lily family are good for all animals, and the more the better.
Unfortunately, this isn't so. The American Journal of Veterinary Research (January 1992) reported that onion-induced oxidation of canine red blood cells has caused severe reactions in some dogs, even those who consumed small portions of the vegetable. If enough onion is ingested, a sensitive dog may develop anemia, weakness, pale mucous membranes and an increased respiratory rate. More recently, researchers have warned that garlic can be hazardous to cats and to herbivores such as rabbits. There is now a great deal of controversy and confusion over garlic and onions. Can they be toxic? How much is too much?
As herbalist Gregory Tilford explained in the August 1997 issue of Natural Pet, Heinz-body anemia is a potentially life-threatening blood disease caused by the excessive and prolonged ingestion of garlic, onions, turnips, kale, rape (canola) and other plants rich in vitamin K. Scientists theorize that chemical compounds in these plants deplete a naturally occurring glucose enzyme, glucose 6-phosphate dehydrogenase or G6PD, whose special function is to protect the cell walls of red blood cells. G6PD depletion causes oxidative damage to red blood cells, leading to the formation of "Heinz bodies," which trigger their rejection from the bloodstream, resulting in the dark-colored urine. If this dumping process continues unchecked, the animal can become anemic and eventually die.
Nonetheless, garlic and onions have been fed to animals of all shapes and sizes for centuries. Both of these pungent herbs fight infection, help prevent cancer, expel tapeworms, inhibit protozoan infections such as Giardia lamblia, make animals less attractive hosts to all parasites, including fleas, and prevent blood clotting. In parts of France, racehorses with clotting disorders are fed garlic to prevent this problem. In short, garlic and onions are powerful medicines.
Most dogs, cats, birds, rabbits and other animals benefit from the occasional addition of garlic and/or onion to their food. It may be that animals fed a raw diet are less likely to suffer from Heinz-body anemia than those fed a monotonous cooked, packaged or processed diet, so the following guidelines may be most appropriate for those making the transition from cooked to raw foods or for those who continue to feed a commercially prepared diet. As Tilford noted, the recorded cases of allium poisoning typically involve onion doses exceeding 0.5 percent of the animals' body weight, so that a healthy dog weighing 60 pounds would have to ingest a 5-ounce onion or several cloves of garlic to begin the Heinz-body process. Red blood cells regenerate quickly in healthy animals, so the overdose would have to be repeated frequently to cause harm.
In general, dogs may tolerate garlic better than cats do, and cats may tolerate onions better than dogs. Some veterinarians recommend that cats never be given garlic, but most agree that small amounts from time to time do far more good than harm. Although any animal can have a sensitivity to any food, it is probably safe to give your dog garlic in the quantities recommended in this book for several days per week, such as five days on and two days off. Smaller amounts of onion or garlic are appropriate for cats on a less frequent schedule, such as two days on and three days off. In either case, going without garlic altogether is appropriate for one week per month.
For birds, rabbits, sheep, cattle, horses and other herbivores, consider feeding garlic once or twice per week. To treat specific illnesses, larger quantities and daily consumption for seven to ten days is probably safe and effective, but prolonged, uninterrupted, high doses may pose a risk. Garlic and onions are not appropriate supplements for infant puppies, kittens and other very young animals because their ability to manufacture red blood cells is still developing; wait until they are three or four months old before feeding these foods on a regular basis.
As with any food or supplement, watch your animal for signs of discomfort or distress. If they occur, decrease the dosage or discontinue the food altogether. Keep in mind that because garlic is a natural blood thinner, it can prevent clotting when it's desirable, such as during surgery. If your animal is about to be spayed, neutered or have any other surgical procedure, discontinue garlic for a week or two prior to the operation."
I have read in other books that dogs tolerate garlic much better than onions.
I do not feed onions period and feed garlic in a three week on and one week off schedule. They also do not get it every day of the week but only about 3-4 times per week. Our cat does not get either garlic or onion except on rare occasion (like today) when he gets into the dog food!
Mary
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Re: Garlic, Onions and Dogs (Encore presentation)
Posted by BD on 1/6/2000, 5:20 pm , in reply to "Garlic, Onions and Dogs (Encore presentation)".
Mary -
I have had her book for close to a year now and love it! You are really going to enjoy it. Her article on garlic was exactly what I was going to reference for Rina as well so thanks! I also indicated that it is a controversial topic, using garlic I mean. For instance Dr. Pitcarin states
in his book "Dr. Pitcarin's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats" -
"Garlic helps to eliminate worms, strengthens digestion and beneficially stimulate the intestinal tract. Use it to promote intestinal health. It is also indicated for animals that have been on a high meat or fish diet, and thoe that tend to be overweight or suffer from hip pain from arthritis or dysplasia. Include fresh grated garlic with each meal, using 1/3 to 3 cloves, depending on the animal's size."
I know people that use it each day without a problem, I only give a small amount maybe 1/2 clove a day a few days a week. I add it to her veggies when I make them and freeze them - and I don't add it to every single batch I make. In Mary Wulff-Tilford's book "Herbs for Pets" she has a HUGE article on garlic - too long to type! 8-) BUT she does say:
"A healthy 60-pound dog would have to eat a whole 5-ounce onion, or several cloves of garlic just to start the Heinz-body process. (Heinz Body Anemia - a potentially life threatening blood disease).
She also writes: "The possibility of Heinz Body Anemia is dose dependent, meaning the more garlic fed the more chance of a problem developing. But no one knows how much is too much, most recorded instances of Heinz Body Anemia in animals involve ingestion of large quantities of onions and other garlic relatives, many of which are likely to contain such larger percentages of enzyme-depleting constituents that a typical dose of garlic."
Lastly she writes: "Small doses of garlic added to your companion animal's food 3 or 4 days per week, perhaps 1/8 teaspoon of garlic powder per pound of food fed, are probably going to be of great benefit to the overall health of your pet. Just don't overdo it."
To me its better to be safe then sorry, So like Mary I only use it in moderation.BD
Mites
Posted by BD on 11/28/1999, 10:59 am , in reply to "trouble/Mites or food allergy/some what LONG".
Hi there -
Well my two holistic friends are not reachable today, but I will send them Paula's post and experiences just to get their feedback for future reference. Being as I am home today I referenced three separate books about "mites". From what I can read "mites" strike the ears and the name is termed 'ear mites'. The type of mite that affects the body is called "mange" - or "demodectic mange" - caused by a microscopic mite that lives in hair follicles. The other type is called "sarcoptic mange" caused by scabies mites that burrow into the sin, making pets and people itch. I will try and reference from all 3 books the information on these conditions. Just so you know the books I grabbed are Goldstein's, Pitcarin's and Puotinen.
From what I read the scabies form of mange is less common, so I am just going to type a brief bit about what is discussed on that.
Scabies occurs in both dogs and cats and causes itching irritation and thickening of the skin. People can be infected by contact. The result is intense itching, especially at night and in those area that were most in contact with the animal. Though the animal mange mite can live in human skin, it cannot reproduce there. Eventually the problem ends on its own, if reinfection does not occur. Note that we humans have our own brand of scabies mites, which can cause us prolonged aggravation.
Demodectic mange is caused by a microscopic mite living in hair follicles. Occurs mostly in dogs and appears at first as small hairless patch near the eye or chin. It does not itch much and may pass unnoticed. The mite that causes mange is very widespread and is actually found on most 'normal' dog and also on people's faces without any sign of presence. D-mange causes a minor problem for some young dogs but usually clears up without treatment by age of 12-14 months. In a small % the mite continues to spread. Eventually it can cover most of the body. Results in hair loss and skin irritation and thickening. Bacteria can also get established (staph) causing further complications such as pimples etc. Animals that have generalized mange are susceptible to other serious illnesses and must be treated very carefully for their health to be restored. It is also important that they not be vaccinated as their immune system cannot react properly to the vaccine.
Treatment - Orthodox treatment is harsh, poisonous and generally futile. Mild cases clear up on their own. In addition cortisone type drugs should not be used under any circumstances. They depress the immune system further and therefore just about guarantee non recovery by any method.
Good results are seen by using just nutrition and homeopathic remedies though treatment must be individualized and requires close attention to progress.
General guidelines for a natural approach (but I would seek a holistic vet as well)
Fast the dog (IF its weight and health are good, no longer an option for the one who was vomiting etc) - only under vet's guidance.
Use a natural diet and in the one book I am referencing they say to add zinc, (by feeding ground pumpkin seeds or chelated zinc - 10-30 milligrams depending on size of dog) also Vitamin C, vitamin E, and lecithin.
Rub fresh lemon juice on affected spot every day. There are also addition homeopathic preparations detailed, but I would consult a vet on that.
Other comments are that healthy pets don't get mange. (So I am really unsure that this is/was your problem though I don't really know). The mite that causes d-mange lives in the intestinal tract of healthy animals. It is only when the host's resistance is low that it migrates to the skin and takes up residence in hair follicles. The result is bare patches marked by tiny bumps or pimples often near the chin or eyes or on the feet. The way to make your pet healthy is with nutrition, exercise, natural light and a happy home. Dietary changes alone have cured many cases of mange. Vitamins C, E, an zinc and lecithin are recommended supplements.
Chinese herb astragalus and the familiar Echinacea are often recommended for dogs with mange. As well as lemon skin lotion that Juliette de Bairacli Levy uses to treat mange. Some herbalists apply a garlic tincture of apple cider vinegar or a dilute solution of tea tree oil. There are many possible external application, but what really matters is improving the animal's health. Mites are best treated from the inside out.
The fact that mange remains dormant in a dog's system would be a good indicator that regardless of where you traveled this could be what is troubling your dogs. In addition if they were both having an allergic reaction to their dog food maybe their immune systems were compromised allowing them to become susceptible to the mange. The only thing that makes me wonder if this was not simple allergies is because you are itchy too. I can't seem to find any other parasites that match these symptoms.
Lastly I just ready that demodectic mange is hard to treat. There is one form of infestation that is localized involving several small patches of hair loss usually around the head area of puppies, and they tend to heal spontaneously as the animal matures. The other manifestation of d-mange again due to an immune deficiency, is generalized which is to say that it involves any part of the body and sometimes the whole body. This is one of the most difficult problems to cure. Medical treatments are very toxic with one, the co called Scott's dip and no more then one third of the dog can be dipped at a time. (Obviously not what your vet gave you). A dip called Mitaban is also pretty toxic. Kills the mites but fails to address the immune deficiency that allowed the mites to take hold in the first place.
I can't seem to find any other parasite culprits other then fleas. But you would see fleas - and you don't. So I am baffled. Once you get home, can you seek out a holistic vet to see if you can get to the route of the problem? I would not be convinced that this is mites at all until I had a test done. I am glad you stopped using the chemical he gave you to use, since he wasn't sure what exactly he was treating. But I can totally relate to putting your faith in the vet because you wanted to put your dogs out of the agony of what they were going through - and then being disappointed in the results. That reaction she had is terrifying. I am very sorry you had to go through that, but thank you for sharing it with us. It might make others try something else if it were recommended to them so thanks. keep us posted on how you and your kids are doing!
I have read that Pyrethrin based treatments are safe their adverse possible affects are that they can cause allergic dermatitis and system allergic reactions. Large amounts may cause nausea, vomiting etc but rapidly detoxify in the intestines. Permethrin make be a slight carcinogen according to mice studies. However they ARE the least toxic of all the insecticides used on pets, and they are found in both conventional and natural flea control products. Also - I read that an owner may find a scattering of red itchy dots from the mange bites on his own arms or in areas where clothing is tight against the body such as belt lines. This is a critical clue. Found to be helpful is Selsun shampoo - a prescription formula, not the milder over the counter product Selsun-Blue.
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References Used:
The Nature of Animal Healing : The Path to Your Pet's Health, Happiness, and Longevity by Martin Goldstein
The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care by C. J. Puotinen
Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats by Richard H. Pitcairn and Susan Hubble Pitcairn
Calcium/Phosphorous Ratio and Food Balance Thread
Posted by Mary on 12/2/1999, in reply to "Part II".
Posted by BD on 12/3/1999, 10:13 am , in reply to "Part II".
Hi Mary -
Thanks for the answers! I have a couple questions myself and things to add.
#1 -For those looking for where to purchase organic meat - here is the web address from the farm that I am purchasing about 225 pounds of organic beef from this Winter. Yes it sounds like a lot - but some will be for humans too. The beef bought in bulk is $2.29 a pound - quite a bargain if you have ever tried to buy organic beef in the supermarket. This farm is up in NY state and I believe can arrange shipping. She has organic chicken and turkey as well. I think they are done slaughtering for the winter for beef, but if you are interested you could probably set something up for some time in the future and I think she has chicken and turkey almost year round. She told me based on the interest level from dog owners, she will supply her farm accordingly in the future. Suzanne Clothier is pretty well known for a lot of her work relating to dogs and training/behavior.
#2 - I am so unscientific I do not understand when all the books say the proper calcium/phosphorous ratio should be either 1:1 or 1:2 OR 1:1:1 and 1:3:1 for cats. Does this mean equal parts of calcium and phosphorous - and then for the 1:2 its one part calcium to two parts phosphorous?? I have always and I mean always read different things about how much bonemeal to give with the meat. And the meat could be any meat - chicken, beef, etc. I had heard in the past one tablespoon per cup of meat, one tablespoon per lb of meat. In Pat Mckays book (who is totally against grains) her recipes are -
Yields 2-3 cups of food -
one cup raw meat (ground or chunk)
one cup raw ground mixed veggies
1 tablespoon bonemeal
2 tablespoons aloe vera concentrate
Additional purified water, vitamins, and supplements
So for a while that was my rule of thumb. Then I heard 2 teaspoons per cup of meat. Very confusing! Then I read in whole dog journal that in addition to gulping food too much calcium can cause bloat. So I figured 2 tsp per cup of meat was safer. When I look in Pitcairn's book it is impossible to determine because all his recipes call for some of his health powder which has
bonemeal in it plus addition calcium, so I can't tell how much he advocates. He does say that raw bones are the best source of calcium but that the next most natural calcium source is bonemeal and contains many trace minerals. That Schiff Bone all and Kal are the best, and used for human use.
Anyway - it can be very confusing especially when different authors say different amounts and different things about grains etc. Mary Wulff Tilford's book says a dog's diet should only contain 30% meat, 35% grains and 35% veggies! I have always done at least 50% meat!About Meats and Phosphorous
Posted by MaryMc. on 12/3/1999, 5:18 pm
I want to start by stating that you guys are challenging my memory. I have developed my rules of thumb but don't remember all the sources and snippets! My memory is not what it once was when I was in college and you all must forgive me. As a result, it has become selective!
At any rate, I looked at the Pitcairn's book for his addition of bonemeal to meat. He does add per pound but states that 2 cups equal one pound. (The scientist in me will tell you that not always depending on the meat and how well ground it is due to air pockets and such) He does mix the bonemeal with the healthy powder in his recipes. When you look at the recipe of his healthy powder just remember that it is 1/16th bonemeal. There are 16 Tablespoons in a cup. For every cup of the healthy powder you are therefore adding in one Tablespoon of bonemeal. I did a sampling of 5 of his recipes and he varies in the amount of bonemeal he adds anywhere from 1 tablespoon per pound to 1 and 2/3 tablespoons (or any where from 3 teaspoons to 5 teaspoons). This goes back to what I stated about looking at the whole picture in what else you are giving. He uses mostly grains and very little veggies. Grains are not sources of calcium where many of the veggies are. So it would be consistent that if you are using veggies like I am and no grains you would not need to add as much bonemeal as you have a bit of calcium in the veggies.
I also looked in Celeste Yarnall's book " Natural Dog Care". She gives us the rule of thumb of adding one tablespoon of bonemeal to every pound of meat! She uses grains but in VERY small amounts and more veggies than Pitcairn uses. So this would tend to explain the difference (IMHO). Her section on meat is invaluable and I thought it would be of benefit to provide some of that information here rather than just my feeble attempt at an adequate summary. And perhaps this will inspire you to go read her book, which I think is a very good one on natural dog care!
"Some Guidelines for Serving Fresh Foods
Some nutritionists recommend only one protein food per meal. After all, the carnivore in the wild, if lucky makes one kill a day. You may mix muscle and organ meats, but mix beef with beef organ meats, turkey with turkey organ meats, and so on. You may alternate beef, lamb, chicken, and turkey. I recommend not mixing meat until you are certain the dog doesn't suffer from a sensitivity to a particular one. Avoid veal and never use pork [there you go conflict with Billinghurst who recommends both veal and pork!] The fat globules in pork are so large, they can clog your dog's blood vessels. I buy lean cuts of meat of poultry and add essential fatty acids necessary for dogs. However, if you budget is limited, reduce the essential fatty acids but try not to exceed 22 percent fat. Small amounts of organ meats, including kidney, liver, and heart, may be fed daily. Because the liver is the body's "detox central," Dr. Chambreau cautions against feeding your dog liver more than once a week unless it's organic. She and I both feel that heart meat is one of the best protein foods, and I include it in every meal. My animals love a little organ meat in their food. Don't forget, each prey animal comes equipped with glands and organs!
I recommend feeding one to two parts organ meat to four to five parts muscle meat (ground or chunks). A combination of ground meat and chunks mixes well with the vegetable and grain portions of the recipe. If you use only chunks, some dogs eat the meat and leave the rest. Serve chunks on a regular basis to help clean your dog's teeth and keep them free of tartar buildup. All meats must always include bonemeal (1 tablespoon per pound of meat), and don't forget those turkey necks and wings. Dogs love them! [Here again is conflict with Pat McKay and MaryMc who say wings are a no no because of their splintering potential and thus hazard]
You may use fresh fish. However, a safe source is difficult to obtain. I have used raw or lightly seared organic tilapia, mixed with the usual proportions of carbohydrates and supplements. I call it sashimi! Canned mackerel, salmon, and sardines are fine too, and I include them often, substituting them for part of the meat ration or using them just for flavor for finicky eaters. Reduce the essential fatty acid mixture when including fish."She goes on with other hints about feeding fresh. Like if you cannot find fresh vegetables frozen veggies are fine but DO NOT use canned veggies, which are high in sodium. But my fingers are also as old as my mind and I want to inspire you folks to start reading books like this one! Check out your local library to see what is available or what they can obtain on loan!
Hope this has helped,
Mary
No. 1: Take your time and don't hurry your decision. After all, given the typical life-span of a Rhodesian Ridgeback this is a decision you will have to live with for the next 10 to 15 years. So take the time to research various breeders and make a decision you can live with for that long.
No. 2: Read more than just one book about Ridgebacks. Contact the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the U.S., Inc. for general information about the breed. Contact your local Ridgeback club and request names of club members you may meet, visit, and speak with; people who own Rhodesian Ridgebacks.
No. 3: Attend dog shows, performance events, or get yourself invited to a club activity to decide which style or type of Ridgeback you prefer.
No. 4: Remember that ALL Rhodesian Ridgeback puppies are cute. Simply because that puppy is adorable doesn't mean that the puppy is the right choice for you. Maintain a cool head when viewing litters and remember to "just say no" if this is not the best puppy for you.
No. 5: Buy your puppy from a reputable breeder. A good place to start looking for a breeder is the RRCUS Breeder's Directory.
No. 6: Remember that membership in any breed club by itself does not make a breeder ethical in the practices or reputable. You still need to become educated and ask a lot of questions of any potential breeder before making your final selection.
No. 7: Meet not only the RR owners but also interact with their RR's to discover the various RR temperaments and personalities.
No. 8: If you have strong feelings about specific breeding practices make sure and discuss these with breeder when you first speak to them. Ask about their policies on these key issues. Don't berate the breeder for his/her choices, simply make your decisions according to whether or not your beliefs match up with theirs.
No. 9: Contact your local rescue organization when looking to add a canine family member to your household. A number of homeless RR's are in search of a loving home and perhaps one of them is just the right dog for you. Adopting a rescue has some practical advantages such as the dog is most often housebroken, knows some basic commands and is spayed/neutered. You can locate Rhodesian Ridgeback rescue in your area by visiting Rhodesian Ridgeback Rescue (http://www.ridgebackrescue.org).
No. 10: When selecting a dog, do not let the price be your decision-making factor. If you must struggle to come up with the price a reputable breeder asks, then there is a good chance that you simply cannot afford a Ridgeback. Afterall, the up front price you pay is only a small portion of the total price you will pay for the dog over its' entire lifetime. The first year is particularly expensive in veterinary visits, blankets and crate, food and wanter bowls, and numerous dog toys. Visit the Rhodesian Ridgeback Survey website to get a good handle on the costs of both purchasing and maintaining a Ridgeback.
No. 11: Take a few moments (or better yet days) to consider if you have enough time, space, fitness, and patience to raise a dog like a Ridgeback.
No. 12: Remember that Ridgebacks do not make good kennel dogs and can not be kept outside where they are apart from their family. Ridgebacks are extremely people oriented and truly happy only if they are with their owners, that means living inside the house with you.
No. 13: Remember that a Ridgeback puppy's ridge is clearly visible at birth. At around three days of age the fetal fur begins to fall out and is replaced with puppy fur. This transition from fetal fur to puppy fur lasts up until the puppy is between 5 to 6 weeks of age. During this period of transition the ridge is difficult to judge for conformation purposes, however, it remains clearly visible albeit a little ruffed up. At around 6 weeks of age the puppy has lost all his/her fetal fur and the ridge has returned to normal meaning that it can now be judged from a conformation standpoint. If you are merely interested in a pet quality puppy, so that anamolies in the ridge are not important to you, the important thing for you to remember is that a Ridgeback is born with a ridge. That ridge is clearly visible at all ages and does not get better or worse. It simply is difficult to judge slight anamolies between 3 days and 6 weeks of age. Consequently, if a breeder shows you a ridgeless puppy and tells you that 'the ridge will come in later' or that an imperfect ridge will become 'perfect later', this breeder should be avoided.
Suggestions of what to look for in a breeder
- Shows a general interest in, love for and knowledge about the breed and is actively involved in the dog fancy, including showing, competition events or breed clubs.
- Ideally a breeder requires a written purchase contract unless they know you personally.
- The contract should require that pet-quality Ridgebacks be spayed or neutered.
- The contract should contain a clause that states that he/she will take the dog back if the owner for some reason should become unable to keep the dog.
- The contract guarantees a puppy's general health for a certain period of time, at least for 72 hours or until your veterinarian has examined the puppy.
- Provides a written health guarantee as part of or along with the contract at the time of sale. Ideally the guarantee will include a more extended guarantee for hip and elbow dysplasia, with a minimum of a two-year period. The breeder should provide a guarantee against dermoid sinus for the life of the pup.
- The breeder should state clearly in writing the terms and limitations of all health-related guarantees.
- The breeder should provide veterinary records for the puppy or the name of a veterinarian who has seen the puppy. The last visit should be dated after the puppy turned 6 weeks of age.
- Can discuss with you why they chose this particular mating and what their goals were in breeding this particular sire and dam together. It should be obvious that the mating is a result of carefully thought out planning and not a mating that transpired simply because it could!
- The breeder thoroughly knows the pedigrees of all their dogs and of those dogs they have selected as stud dogs. It should be obvious that they thoroughly research the lineage of a dog before introducing it into their breeding program.
- The breeder selects a mating pair where at least one of the two is an AKC conformation champion, thus helping to ensure that the puppies will be true representatives of the breed.
- The breeder discusses with you the temperament of their dogs and not just their accolades in the show ring or other competitive avenues.
- The breeder keeps his/her Ridgebacks in a clean and well-maintained environment (kennel or home).
- Be aware that reputable breeders screen their breeding stock for inheritable diseases or problems and would be able to produce appropriate medical certifications that his breeding stock are free of the genetic defects. As a minimum, reputable breeders should screen all of their breeding stock for hip and elbow dysplasia. Hypothyroidism is getting to be a problem in the largest percentage of pure breeds, and Ridgebacks are amongst those having shown problems. Therefore, you should also try to look for a breeder that is screening their breeding stock for hypothyroidism, and is verifying that their dogs are clear and auto-immune antibody negative.
- The breeder demonstrates a genuine interest and concern for all dogs sold. They want to be there to answer your questions with regard to the health and welfare of this puppy for the life of your dog.
- The breeder(s) sells his/her puppies on the basis of the merits of their puppies only. A reputable breeder does not resort to selling puppies by disparaging other breeders whom you may have contacted or plan to contact in the future.
- The breeder discusses dermoid sinus with you and shows you how to detect a dermoid sinus.
- The breeder has knowledge of genetically linked health issues in his/her breed.
- The breeder discusses both the positive and the negative aspects/traits of the breed with you. They attempt to establish that this breed is indeed ideal for your family situation. In this manner, a reputable breeder is showing that they are attempting to make a sound decision in placement.
Note: A special thanks to Gail Miller, Mary McCormack and Claudia for their contributions to this advice for puppy buyers.
Nutrition Book Recommendations
Home-Prepared Dog & Cat Diets: The Healthful Alternative (Donald R.Strombeck, DVM, PhD) - This book is an excellent source for the nutritional needs of dogs and the special nutritional needs for dogs/cats with long-term health conditions. Although this veterinarian is silent on the subject of raw foods and their benefits he has included many wonderful recipes. Recipes that may be provided raw by those who wish to feed raw. I consider this to be an excellent resource for those with pets that have health issues like diabetes and kidney disease. It also provides a good basic understanding of the nutritional needs of our dogs and cats.
Natural Dog Care (Celeste Yarnall) - An excellent overall dog care book that discusses the importance of diet along with alternative and complimentary medicinal approaches. It contains good information about the importance of essential fatty acids. This is a very good book and I would recommend it. You only need to know in advance that there are alternatives to some of the supplements recommended by this book, which are not made/marketed by the author's company. Her cat book is also excellent.
Natural Health for Dogs & Cats (Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, PhD/Susan Hubble Pitcairn) - A good basic starter book with recipes for those not bold enough to develop their own diet. However, Pitcairn's recipes rely heavily on grains. Many dogs do not digest grains well and this provides no information into this aspect of canine nutrition.
Earl Mindell's Nutrition & Health for Dogs : Keep Your Dog Healthy and Happy With Natural Preventative Care and Remedies, by Earl Mindell, PhD and Elizabeth Renaghan - This book provides a simple no nonsense approach to enhance the reader's basic understanding of the nutritional needs of dogs. It starts out with a good description of the problems with commercial foods and some good reasoning for preparing your own dog's meals. It then provides the basics of what dogs will need in terms of nutrients. It also provides some good advice about more natural approaches to combating fleas. He obviously believes in giving dogs the basics for a strong immune system which will help to stave away many ailments that might be linked to poor commercial nutrition. This should not be the only or the first book you buy when looking into canine nutrition, but,it is certainly a valuable tool to make part of your library.
Herbal Remedies for Dogs and Cats (Mary Wulff-Tilford and Gregory L. Tilford) - A MUST HAVE! In addition to one of the authors being one of the most helpful and nicest of people (Mary Wulff-Tilford) it give a good synopsis of herbs for dogs/cats. A must have for those interested in complimentary methods. And at only $5 you can't lose.
Herbs for Pets by Mary L. Wulff-Tilford and Gregory L. Tilford - This book introduces readers to hundreds of plant medicines that can be used in the daily care of our pets. The authors are both herbalists. They commence their book with a chapter on the principles and practices of herbalism, written at a level that any layman can understand. They explain the basics of herbal preparations quite well. The book discusses the connection between herbs and diet and gives some basic guidelines for feeding dogs and cats. The largest percentage of the book is a summary of many herbs with a write up on each, slanted towards utilization for by our pets. The entries include a description of the plant, its habitat and range, its cycle and bloom season, preparation, common uses, availability, and propagation and harvest techniques. And extremely important for the layman is the Tilfords' inclusion of any warnings on herbal side effects. The book contains wonderful photographs of the various plants and herbs. The tremendous wealth of information contained in the book enables pet owners to select, prepare, and apply natural remedies.
Pet Allergies: Remedies For an Epidemic (Alfred J. Plechner) - an excellent book for anyone who owns a dog or cat with allergies. We have a cat with asthma and this book provided some valuable insight. I believe this book is a must for anyone concerned about allergies in pets.
The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care by C. J. Puotinen - This book offers owners of dogs, cats, bunnies and birds an excellent look at behavior, exercise, nutrition and various alternative/holistic therapies. It is clear, concise and informative while containing a wealth of practical information and recipes. The author also recounts conversations with leading veterinary healers and thus provides insight into the philosophies & practices of some of this country's most innovative healers. The book contains an A-Z of a variety of ailments, providing readers a valuable quick look up for problems and their potential holistic treatments. This is a wonderful book for anyone interested in holistic pet care and is highly recommended!
The Nature of Animal Healing : The Path to Your Pet's Health, Happiness, and Longevity by Martin Goldstein - As an accomplished doctor of veterinary medicine, Martin Goldstein a graduate of the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine who runs a renowned clinic in South Salem, New York is well respected for his 25 years worth of experience in the field--experience he effectively utilizes in conjunction with his expertise in holistic medicine in this new book. Goldstein begins with a general explanation of the origins of diseases in pets, then moves on to taking action against those diseases. He offers thorough discussions of specific ailments such as cancer, allergies, and arthritis. He then provides information regarding holistic medicines available to help in the healing process. The author also discusses the hazards of vaccines and the questionable quality of pet food.
The Natural Remedy Book for Dogs & Cats (Diane Stein) - A very good well-written book that is easily understood by the beginner and more advanced canine nutrition conscience consumer. It also contains some good advice on herbal remedies and complimentary medicine. A nice book to include as part of your library, though if you are a beginner needing to learn the basics of canine nutrition this should not be the first book you buy for your library. But a good book to add to it once you're on your way!
The Ultimate Diet (Kymythy Schultze) - For those who want to provide a grain free diet this book is a must! She provides good insight into grains for dogs/cats and why they can live grain free. She gives good advice for establishing a healthy diet without your having to rely on recipes. A good short and sweet book.
Dog & Cat Care the Natural Way, Natural Pet Cures (Dr. John Heinerman) - I just got this book and thus far I love it. It contains very good sections and insight into special health needs. It contains an excellent section on the need for good nutrition for canine/feline allergy. It helps you to understand that many common illnesses are actually related to a poor diet. I would recommend this book highly to augment your library.
Reigning Cats & Dogs: Good Nutrition Healthy Happy Animals (Pat McKay) - A very good resource book that takes an overall approach to nutrition and good health. She offers good advice for providing a balanced diet.
How To Have A Healthier Dog (Wendell O. Belfield, DVM/Martin Zucker) - This book contains much information for the benefits of antioxidants and Vitamin C in particular. It also gives excellent information about the detrimental effects of most commercial pet foods. However, this book is weak in that it does not present a balanced vitamin and nutrient approach to canine diets. It does not touch into the potential detriments of mega-dosing vitamin C such as the inhibition of absorption of other nutrients (selenium for example). So although it contains some good information, if you were only to buy one canine nutrition book this would not be the one I recommend.
The Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog (Wendy Volhard) - contains some good information about the pet food industry and what is being done to our pets by the mass marketing ploys. It does contain some basics on nutrition and the needs of our pets. However, this was not one of my favorite books and if you were only looking at investing in one book this one is not the best one.
Complete Herbal Handbook For Dogs and Cats (Juliette De Bairacli Levy) - Contains some good information but some of the author's views are rather radical. It also contains some advice that should not be followed like the feeding of onions. This book is a good resource for those who have been feeding their dogs naturally for a while and have a good basic understanding of nutritional needs. This book is not one I would recommend for the novice, as a novice might not be able to discern the good recommendations from the bad advice.
Natural Health Care For Your Dog (Petra Stein) - This book was a bit of a disappointment and I have to admit that I have not used it much.
Heal Your Dog the Natural Way (Richard Allport, BVet Med, Vet MF Hom, MRCVS) - A good starter book for those interested in alternative or complimentary medicine. Not a book for those looking for canine nutrition advice, however. There are better books in this subject area, however, and I would recommend borrowing this book from someone or looking at it in a bookstore before making the decision to purchase. (as I did mail order)
The Well Dog Book (Terri McGinnis, DVM) - This was a more old school approach to canine nutrition stifled by the old thinking. However, the table in the book which provides the vitamin/nutrient requirements for dogs based on weight is a must have. That table has been wonderful for me but the rest of the book left me wanting.
Clinical Nutrition of the Dog and Cat (DVMs Simpson, Anderson, Markwell) - A very good explanation of the digestive system of the dog and cat along with the other systems. If you want to have a good understanding of how dogs are made and how that makes their nutritional needs vary from ours this is a good book. However, it is written very much in a clinical type format and you may need to have a medical dictionary alongside to understand some of the sections. It did give me good insight into how the digestive system is made and how it works. From this standpoint it was a very good book. It was rather pricey, though, and unless you are really into knowing how dog works I would not recommend it.
Home Remedies for Dogs and Cats - A good book written for the layman. Some sections are good and some are not. This is not one I would recommend, however, for those who are serious about starting their dogs on a raw natural diet.
Give Your Dog a Bone (Ian Billinghurst, DVM)- A good book to start with for those not interested in starting out with a lot of grains when utilizing the Pitcairn's diet. It is a good all around book if you are brave enough to go straight from kibble all the way over to raw meaty bones with veggies. However, I found that my dogs had to be weaned slowly from kibble to raw meaty bones and am glad I did not start them out right away with the bones. Their digestive systems needed to adjust gradually to digesting the bones. So the diet in this book may be a deterrent for some people. I personally found this book disappointing as I purchased this after many others. It did not contain any unique and valuable information.
Perhaps if this had been the first canine nutrition book I had purchased I would have enjoyed it more and found it to be of more value.
Grow Your Pups with Bones (Ian Billinghurst, DVM) - It is pretty much like the Give Your Dog a Bone book. But it does contain some recipes for puppies that are being weaned that I think I will find useful when next we have a litter. I do wish this book had concentrated more on the puppy though, and less on dogs in general.
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And here are the books that I don't own that many recommend. As for the Pottenger Cat book yes it is about a cat study. But it helps to illustrate the importance of a raw natural diet. It also illustrates the deleterious effects of generations of feeding cooked and commercial foods.
Are You Poisoning Your Pets? (Nina Anderson/Howard Peiper)
Pottenger's Cats: A Study in Nutrition by Francis, M. Pottenger, Jr.
Let's Cook For Our Dog (Edmond R. Dorosz, DVM)
Natural Immunity: Why You Should NOT Vaccinate! (Pat McKay)
Vegetarian Cats and Dogs (James A. Peden)
The Healthy Cat & Dog Cookbook (Joan Harper)
Your Healthy Pet: A Practical Guide to Happier, Healthier Dogs and Cats (Amy Marder, VMD)
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Regards,
Mary
It used to be that years ago nutritionists told us to avoid fats at all costs. Fats were viewed as the evil behind all heart and cholesterol problems. Since then nutritionists have learned of the fallacy behind these blanket recommendations. Some fats are indeed bad for us. But there are such things as good fats. Essential fatty acids, or EFAs, fall into the category as good or beneficial fats necessary or essential to our diet. What's more is that they are not only essential to the human diet but also to the diet of our beloved dogs and cats.
Flax, an ancient but little known seed, has recently gained worldwide recognition for its many nutritional attributes. Seven years ago, researchers from began to study the potential benefits of flax. Results showed that flax seed could lower serum cholesterol and also help to prevent the growth of new cancer cells. The FDA presented their findings at a recent convention on Experimental Biology and related the following findings: Levels of 1.25 and 2.5% flax in the diet stimulated the immune system. Flax increased vitamin D levels and increased the retention of calcium, magnesium and phosphate. Flax is very high in lignans which have anti-tumor properties and may be linked to a low incidence of breast and colon cancer. Moderately high levels of flax, compared to the same level of oat bran was better in lowering triglycerides, total cholesterol and LDL, and favorable effects on insulin activity. Flax seeds are very reasonably priced and seem to be a valuable addition to the daily diet.
The accepted nutritional recommendation of today is to supplement your daily diet with one to two tablespoons of essential fatty acid rich flax or a combination of flax and borage seed oil. What is not often accompanied with this recommendation, however, is a little bit of basic understanding of flax seed oil. In its natural form in organic whole flax seed, the fatty acids are nutritional and healthy. However, once the seeds are processed and the oils are extracted the picture changes slightly. Raw flax seed is very volatile. It must be refrigerated to remain nutritional and healthy. Processed flax oil develops toxins easily and quickly when stored at room or higher temperatures. So if you are going to purchase the oil of flax you must look for the flax oil that is sold in health food stores and maintained in cold refrigerated temperatures at all times. Also keep in mind that even refrigerated, flax seed oil should only be stored for up to a month. Beyond that the nutritional value of the oil is depleted and toxins do begin to develop. This is why I personally opt to purchase whole flax seed and I grind as I need it. Sometimes I grind an entire two-pound bag and store it in the freezer for later and more convenient use. Sometimes I just bag the whole seed and store it in the freezer for later grinding and use. This is the safest approach to the storage and consumption of flax seed oil and certainly the most convenient and economical for my household. Another alternative would be to purchase the gel cap supplements at a health food store. The vacuum-sealed gel caps are safe for storage for longer periods of time and their condensed nature make storage more convenient. Especially when traveling (like for dogs shows and such.) I do occasionally purchase and feed borage oil capsules. These are a good source of both omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids but are heavier on the omega-6 side. They are not proportioned for the optimum levels of us mammals. So they are an excellent supplement but more from the standpoint of omega-6 fatty acids.
Humans should not consume more than 20-30% of daily calories as fats. The levels are higher for dogs and cats. With them the percentages can be 30 to 40%. Lack of the dietary essential fatty acids has been suggested to facilitate degenerative disease. Surveys indicate that at least 80% of the American population is deficient in the essential fatty acids, this may present a serious health threat. Likewise, commercial dog and cat food is woefully deficient in essential fatty acids. Therefore, some 90 to 95% of our pets' diets are deficient in EFAs. The mass commercial refinement of fat and oil products and foods containing them has effectively eliminated the essential fatty acids from our food chain, contributing to the modern day deficiency in both humans and their pets.
Flax seed oil is one potential answer to this health dilemma. The oil contained in flax seed is unique because it contains both essential fatty acids: alpha-linolenic, an omega-3 fatty acid, and linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid, in appreciable amounts. Flax seed oil is the world's richest source of omega-3 fatty acids at a whopping 57% (over two times the amount of omega-3 fatty acids as fish oils).
The high content of omega-3 fatty acids in flax seed is but one of its positive attributes. The essential fatty acids combined here have been shown to impart a regulatory function on the body's fatty acid metabolism. Additionally, dietary essential fatty acids common to flax seed oil are ultimately converted to hormone-like substances known as prostaglandins, and are important for the regulation of a host of bodily functions including:
inflammation, pain, and swelling
pressure in the eye, joints or blood vessels
secretions from mucus membranes and their viscosity
smooth muscle & autonomic reflexes, gastrointestinal, arterial, ear, heart
water retention
blood clotting ability
allergic response
rheumatoid arthritis
nerve transmission
steroid production & hormone synthesis
Flax seeds are also a valuable source of phyto-estrogens. These phyto-estrogens are extremely important to postmenopausal women and spayed bitches. So providing flax seed is extremely beneficial to our spayed pets and not just for ourselves.
Those who suffer with asthma also recognize the benefits of essential fatty acids. Many asthmatics have been found lacking in dietary EFAs. Supplementation with EFAs has proven extremely beneficial in controlling the symptoms of asthma. I can attest to the benefits of EFAs for asthmatics as both my son and my cat are asthmatic. Both have shown great improvement in their condition since I started supplementing their diets with flax seed and flax seed oil capsules. My son also gets primrose oil, a good source of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) to provide benefits for his asthma. A great deal of scientific research has been conducted with supplements rich in GLA, resulting in significant interest regarding the a variety health ailments including pre-menstrual syndrome, benign breast disease, eczema, psoriasis, obesity, and vascular disorders. I myself take evening primrose oil to combat the effects or peri-menopause (yes, we all get old eventually).
When considering an essential fatty acid supplement and deciding on either flax seed, borage seed or evening primrose oils, the most sensible solution may be a combination of the various oils. However, I have found that for my pets providing flax seed has been sufficient to improve their health and coats tremendously. Only our spayed bitch is sometimes supplemented with evening primrose oil or borage oil. I am starting to supplement the next oldest bitch now with evening primrose oil in preparation for her spay surgery next month.Mary
Essential Fatty Acids and Flax Seed, Posted by MaryMc on 02-25-00:
Essential Fatty Acids or EFAs are necessary to both human and canine health. In the world of today the diets of both mammals includes predominantly the Omega-6 form of fatty acids or linoleic acid. This is the form that the body converts to arachidonic acid (ARA). However, for optimum health we should not maintain Omega-6 fatty acid at a lower percentage level but rather we should balance both Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids in our diet. Ideally we should maintain these EFAs in a 6-to-1 ratio (Omega-6 to Omega-3).
The reality is that most of our food supply, and that of our dogs, is more abundant in Omega-6 fatty acids than in the Omega-3. So we must actively search for good suitable sources of Omega-3 fatty acids. The following from the book "Omega 3 Oils" written by Donald Rudin, MD and Clara Felix beautifully describes the best sources of Omega-3 oils:
"Sources of Omega-3 Fatty Acids
Plankton, a class of microscopic ocean plants at the base of the marine food chain, is rich in the first member of the Omega-3 family, ALA. Both fin fish and shellfish feed on the plankton and use the ALA to create the longer-chain DHA and EPA. Therefore, fish oils do not supply the simpler ALA, which the body needs. But flaxseed yields an oil that is very high in ALA.
Flaxseed oil, and the flaxseed from which it is made, have been used in both cooking and health remedies since the days of ancient Greece and Rome. Until World War II, freshly squeezed flaxseed oil was delivered weekly to homes in northern Europe as a cooking oil. Some families have a tradition of spreading a teaspoon of flaxseed over their breakfast cereal.
Although flaxseed oil has been used for centuries, it is not popular in the United States as are some other vegetable oils, including some --walnut, soybean, and wheat germ--that contain moderate amounts of Omega-3 ALA. However, flaxseed oil has the most ALA--50 to 60 percent. This makes it an ideal oil for cooking and for use as a diet supplement, especially if a medical condition already exists.
Flaxseed oil has some advantages over fish oil. Flaxseed oil is far more palatable than fish oil, especially when taken in large therapeutic quantities. Unlike fish oil, flaxseed oil can be used for cooking and in salad dressings, which provide easy ways to take large doses when needed. And unrefined flaxseed oil, unlike fish oil, is a source of lignan, a special kind of plant fiber that is associated with reduced incidence of breast, colon, and prostrate cancers.
The body can nomally use ALA to make the EPA and DHA found in fish oils. However, there are indications that some individuals cannot produce enough EPA and DHA from dietary flaxseed oil. In such cases, fish-oil supplements may be needed. Also, when flaxseed oil is the major Omega-3 in the diet of a pregnant woman, she may not be able to convert ALA into enough EPA and DHA to meet her own increased needs plus those of the fetus. Because Omega-3 fatty acids are so important to the fetus's growth and brain development, supplements of fish oils for the mother may be necessary if she is unable or unwilling to eat seafood."
So from this you can see that you can get about all you need in terms of EFAs from flaxseed but that it is actually better if you include both flaxseed and fish oils in your diet. This applies for both humans and dogs! The book also includes at the end a table of various fish, oils and animal fats and their breakdown of EFAs in terms of Omega-6 and the Omega-3 family (broken down to ALA, EPA and DHA). For the fishes the best source of EFAs is Cod with rockfish next and mackerel third. Unfortunately, this table does not include sardines so I do not know where that fish source stands in terms of EFA content. Of the vegetable oils none are really a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids that originate form tropical to temperate climates. Only peanut and corn oil have appreciable amounts of ALA. But they are all very heavy in Omega-6 fatty acids. So remember this when people tell you to add a little bit of olive, safflower or sunflower oil to your dogs diet! Of the vegetable oils originating from temperate to polar climates there are a number of good choices exist as sources of Omega-3 oils. The one with the highest level of ALA is perilla (don't ask me what that is) oil. Second is flax or linseed oil. Coming in a very distant third is hempseed oil. So your only strong choices as a source of Omega-3 are rapilla and flaxseed oil. Of the animal fats mutton fat has the highest level of ALA. So when you hear that lamb (undersized mutton) is full of fat remember that it is a source of ALA, and Omega-3 fatty acid. It does contain Omega-6 but at much lower levels than other fat sources and only beef tallow is lower. (Chicken fat contains 17 grams of Omega-6 per 100 grams of fat to lamb which only contains 5 grams while chicken fat only contains 1.1 grams of ALA while mutton fat contains 2.9. Quite a difference!
My dogs bet both flaxseed in their diet along with fish oils. I give both regularly to give them an optimal diet. I should do the same for myself but must admit that since I ran out of flaxseed oil capsules I have not been good about using ground flax in my food! So off to the vitamin store for me to restock on both fish oil and flaxseed oil capsules. My dogs are fed better, they get the real thing as natural sources!
Mary