|
The M5T Bear Trike Expose' (or how to buy a trike kit and nearly kill yourself...) |
|
For $600 (plus >$100
shipping) you get about $150 worth of tubing,
wheels, nuts and bolts (usually in life you get what you pay for; this
time you get alot less). You must supply the hang glider wing, motor,
prop, gas tank, engine mount and various tons of other misc. parts. The
thing as shipped weighs alot so you will also need to beef up your wing
or get a real trike wing. If you are lucky it will work with your wing.
When I opened the package my heart sank...lets see what I got for my $700...
|
|
|
POOR WELDING: Here are closeups of the welding . Note pits where the weld didn't take and piles where the weld piled up. In a nutshell, this is very bad welding, suitable for a dumpster or rain barrel, not a flying machine! My brother-inlaw (who is a welder) saw the parts and laughed, asked if they were made by a beginning welding class! *In fact the nose wheel gear collapsed on it's final flight and separated at the weld, big surprise..
|
|
|
Cheap ($5 hardware-store) wheels:
The wheels Mr Matan sends you are from a hardware store and designed for a wheelbarrow or trashcan, NOT an aircraft! They are very thin metal (like tin can metal, I kid you not!) and hollow inside.These wheels are NOT designed for much load, let alone sideways load that comes from landing crosswind! Some have told me "oh, it's ok to use wheelbarrow wheels for ultralight" sure you can but consider the following: The writing on the tire states: "DO NOT USE FOR LOADS GREATER THAN 50 LBS! Now I weigh over 200, the wing and trike weigh another 150, thats 350 lbs or over 120 lbs/wheel! Nothin' like a good old wheel-collapse on landing to spice up the day...And, consider this: the bearings in these wheels are actually just bushings (like a piece of pipe) no ball bearings! He should have used sturdier ultralight wheels or even go-cart wheels. |
|
|
Cheap Hardware...NO "AN" AIRCRAFT RATED HARDWARE! Over half of the bolts were hardware
store bolts of questionable grade I dont think they were even
grade 5 and no locknuts! This means that a critical nut or bolt
could come off in flight. With a
2 stroke engine on board, the engine vibrates the airframe like crazy
and even Nylocked nuts can sometimes come loose. All hardware should be
"AN" (aircraft grade) and with locknuts or some way to secure
the nuts. You would never see anything but AN hardware on a real aircraft
like a Cosmos or Windlass or a Cessna...theres a good reason for that!
Most pilots would rather fly than roll it up into a smoking ball of aluminum...
|
|
|
The 'detailed plans'
that came with the kit looked very amaturish:
There were major inconsistancies between what was shown in the drawings and what was actually in the kit. For example the main mast had been cut in 2 and spliced back together, this was not reflected in the "plans" and I still can't figure out why it was done. In fact the entire trike looked nothing like the plans. Call me picky, but when I buy a kit designed to aviate, I expect the plans to be professionally drawn and detailed, showing some thought was put into the design. There was no documentation as to what types of wings or engines have been tried. When asked, Ivan Matan the designer couldn't tell me. My guess is none have been tried. Congratulations, you are now an aircraft designer AND test pilot! Enjoy. |
|
The Bottomline...This guy seems to care more about making a huge profit than he cares about the lives of his customers. Or maybe he's totally clueless? I wonder if he uses the same junky parts on his bird? I doubt it, but if so, he may not be around to build any Bear Trikes much longer. Seriously, my concern with
this kit is about safety and value. On any flying machine, using non-aircraft
quality parts can be done, but it's extremely risky. The kit is
worth way less than 1/3 what you pay for it. And if you buy one, look
at it and ask Ivan Matan if he will refund your money if you ship it back
at YOUR expense he will laugh into the phone from his protected little
Canadian house and tell you to go screw yourself. A REAL businessman would
give you your money back.
|
|
|
Update: AUG 2005 Well, it's been over 2 years since the thing arrived and after much agony it is in the trash heap (wish I had a crystal ball)! I had decided to try to build and fly the thing, knowing it would be a gigantic project. Here is (briefly) what happened: First, the only parts I could use from the original kit was the triangle of metal or basic frame and the rear axel holder. Bought at an aluminum yard, this is about $100 worth of 6061 square and round tubing. I bought a lightweight strong seat & belt (threw away the 50 lb garden tractor seat the "kit" came with!) and securely mounted it. I bought ultralight aircraft wheels all around and modified the front fork to make it all work. Basically ALOT of small bits and pieces go into this that you don't think of. Then came the engine. I had a brand new 20 hp 2si engine on hand, but mounting it to the bare frame became a multi-month long project, agonizing over how to support it, how high off the ground it needed to be, lots of engineering problems to solve. I had Arrowprop cut a 44" 3-blade wood prop for me but they could only guess at the pitch (turns out the pitch was wrong and had to send it back to get it re-pitched because it loaded up the engine too much at full power. Nothing wrong with Arrowprop, getting a wood prop is a guessing game sometimes. Adding the instruments (CHT, EGT and TAC) was fun. Next came routing the fuel tank/lines, throttle, fiddly bits like that. No matter what, every time I turned around there was some major problem to solve or something mounted somewhere created another problem , I tell ya, this homebuilding stuff will make ya nuts! Finally time to hang from the rafters to make sure it's going to be configured to land properly...uggh more agonising and problems to solve. Then hooking the wing to the trike: OOOPS! the hang block the 'kit' came with was poorly designed and interfered with the cables inside the wing (would have cut the main cables, causing a crash!). Back to the drawing board, had a sheetmetal company bend a bracket around some nylon block I had to specially cut and drill around the keel so the whole thing would not interfere with the cables. Success, hundreds of $$$ and time later. OOOPS. The prop was going to interfere with the lower rear hangglider cables, so they had to be moved several feet forward, another trip or 2 to the aircraft supply house. After hundreds of trips (and hundreds of $$$) all over town this project is getting old fast. Will I ever get to fly? Had to build a several hundred $$$ trailer to carry it, and modify the truck rack. Well the maiden journey went ok, it did fly but a ton of modifications definately needed to be done to make it safer and easier to set up...yet more time and money. Due to a whole host of problems with geometry and engine problems I only got a couple of hours in the thing, one landing in mildly thermal conditions bent and broke 3/4 of the original chariot frame. Most trikes on the market could have handled that landing without breaking, it was NOT that hard! When landing gear collapsed, prop hit the ground, shattered and went through the sail in several places. I has been a constant nightmare and it's in the trash. There were just too many flaws with Bear trike, I just want to forget about it, put it behind me, I feel lucky I got away alive. |
|
|
Here's what I would do if I did it over again...
CHOOSING A HOMEBUILT
|
|
|
Heres some homebuilder resources:
|
|
|
|