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Simply, compost is partially decayed organic material. Almost any thing that once lived can be broken down into compost in a well managed pile. Added to your garden it creates soil with a high humus content and rich in plant nutrients.
Such a valuable material should be hard to produce, but it it is not. Like many things it's more efficient to make in large quantities rather than small ones. Two things regulate the rate at which your organic material material becomes compost, heat and moisture. The heat is self-generated by microorganisms in the pile. The larger the pile the greater the amount of heat generated and retained in the center of the pile.Temperatures in the center of a large, active pile can exceed 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Your compost pile should be located in an area that is screened from the view of you and your neighbor. Even the most ardent organic gardener will admit a compost pile is not a thing of visual beauty. You need not worry about being upwind as there are no unpleasant odors from a properly constructed compost pile. A partially shaded location is better than one in full sun as it will be easier to maintain a more even moisture level in the pile. Building the compost pile A convenient, workable size for a pile is between four and five feet square and between three and four feet high. Should you be fortunate enough to have material in excess of a pile this size, maintain the height and width and extend the length of the pile to accommodate your material. Begin the pile with a layer of the rough, coarse material. Don't include sticks and brush in the pile and avoid evergreens. Make this bottom layer between one and two feet thick. Next, if it is available, put down a layer of manure. This starts the pile heating quickly. Any kitchen garbage goes on the pile next. Do not put bones or grease in the pile. They slow the action of the pile and attract unwanted furry visitors. Now sprinkle a few handfuls of ground limestone over the pile unless you are going to use the compost on rhododendron or azaleas. Add any wood ashes you have, but don't use coal ashes. Depending upon your persuasion, sprinkle chemical or organic fertilizer on the layer. Complete the first course of the pile by covering the heap with an inch or so of good soil. The soil contains bacteria and seeds the pile with microorganisms that do the composting. Wet the pile down thoroughly as you build it. If you wait until the pile is complete to water it, the water will run off instead of penetrating the pile. A dry pile does not work. Continue building layers until the pile
is between four and five feet high. Water between each course.
A pile can work at any height, but at about four feet the pile
has acquired enough mass to build up really hot temperatures
in the center, This means decomposition is taking place as rapidly
as possible and weed seeds are being destroyed. A higher pile
means unnecessary physical exertion lifting material to the top
of the pile. Make the top of the pile concave so rain is directed
into the pile instead of running off. Piles as small as three feet square can work in reasonable lengths of time if they are turned each week or two. Keep the pile as straight and as square as possible to conserve heat in the pile. Bins made of wire, snow fencing, or unmortared cinder blocks aid the process by confining the pile and conserving the heat and moisture. Small amounts of compost can be made by layering the material in large plastic garbage bags. The bag helps retain the heat and moisture and speeds the process. Open the bag occasional and stir the contents. Decomposition requires oxygen. The bag can be stored inside where the temperature is warmer than outside to produce usable compost in a shorter period of time. Compost is ready for use when the organic material has decomposed enough to begin to crumble when handled, but still retains its form. Compost for potting house plants should be screened and the rougher material returned to the pile or used on the garden You need not be concerned about when the compost is right for use. Once it starts to breakdown it can be used at any time.
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Copyright © 2000-2009 Frank H. Sommer
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Sommer in the garden
zone 6 gardening Pennsylvania
Email: franksommer@comcast.net
Web site created September 26, 1999
Updated November 11, 2009