yellow crocus in the March border 

 gardening  project for March Starting seeds indoors with Sommer in the garden


Seed starting indoors
One snapdragon in the border gets little attention. A cluster of three snapdragons makes a noticeable display. Dozens of snapdragons make visitors stop and marvel. They also make a sizable dent in the plant budget. Large displays are possible on a reasonable budget, however, if you grow your plants from seed.

Even more exciting is the great variety of plants available from seed. In garden centers our choices are limited to a few dozen plant varieties. Thousands of varieties are available as seeds. Most of the thousands of varieties can be grown from seed with moderate skill and reasonable growing facilities.


Basic necessities

The requirements for successful seed germination are light, warmth, moisture and soil. None of these necessary elements are difficult or expensive to provide. None of them can be ignored.

A south facing window provides both light and warmth for a few seedlings. Space is the limiting factor. Light levels drop rapidly as you move away from the window and the proper amount of light is absolutely necessary.

Proper light levels can be maintained by using electric lights. Fluorescent and high intensity discharge lights are the most widely used light sources. Fluorescent lights are recommended. They are inexpensive and effective for growing seedlings.

Seeds do not germinate if the soil is too cool. They may even rot. The optimum germination temperature varies according to the plant variety. Cool temperature vegetables like cabbage germinate between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Most annuals germinate best at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees. Soil heating cables or propagation mats can be placed under the seed flats to raise the soil temperature. Most of these devices are thermostatically controlled to maintain temperature between 70 and 75 degrees.

The growing medium must be kept consistently moist from the time the seeds are planted. Should the growing mix dry out any time after the seed begins to germinate the seedling dies.

Soilless planting mixes are recommended for seed starting. They are light weight, drain well, do pack down and are free of weed seeds and pathogens.


How to sow

Seed flats should be clean, nonporous and of an appropriate size. A three-inch plastic pot is large enough to start between one and two dozen seedlings.

Fill the pot with moisten soilless starting mix. Using the bottom of another pot, tamp the soil in the pot. The surface of the mix should be between 1/2 and 3/4 of an inch below the rim of the pot.

Scatter the seeds evenly on the surface of the soilless mix. Do not crowd the seeds. Some seed packets contain hundreds of seeds. Planting that many seeds would make it extremely difficult to separate the seedlings when it is time to move them to individual pots. Crowded seedling do not grow well.

Cover the seeds with a layer of soilless mix as directed on the seed packet. Some seeds require light to germinate and are not covered at all. In general, seeds are covered to a depth twice the diameter of the seed. Firm the starting mix over the seeds.

Prepare a label with the plant name and the date of planting. Craft sticks make inexpensive labels. Without a label you're going to forget what is in the flat. Label your seed flats even if you think it is not necessary.

Place the pot or flat containing the seeds in a shallow tray containing water. Allow it to soak until the surface of the starting mix shows moisture. Remove the pot or flat from the water and allow it to drain for approximately 15 minutes.

After the pot has drained invert a plastic bag over it and place it under the lights. Plastic sandwich bags work well for three-inch pots. The bag maintains the proper humidity and moisture level until the seeds sprout. Remove the bag after the seeds sprout.


Caring for seedlings
Check the pots daily after the bags have been removed and water them when necessary. At this stage watering is a daily chore and cannot be neglected. There are automatic watering devices that can be used to take care of your seedlings if you must leave them for a few days.

The most popular of the automatic watering devices are capillary mats. These inexpensive devices water your plants without your close attention. The mats look like pieces of a fuzzy blanket. To use them, you place the mat on a waterproof surface and wet it. One end of the mat is placed in a water reservoir. Set the pots or flats on the mat. There must be drain holes in the bottom of the pots or flats that are in contact with the mat. The surface of the mat must be in contact with the growing mix in the containers.

The system should be set up and operated for several days prior to the time it is needed. If you check it out before you need it you can be at ease while you are away.

Soilless growing mixes, unlike soil, do not contain nutrients. As a result it is necessary to fertilize the seedling soon after they sprout. Half strength solutions of water soluble fertilizer applied weekly should keep the plants growing well.


Potting up

When the seedling develop the second set of true leaves it is time to move them into individual containers. Individual 2" or 2-1/4" pots are large enough to grow most seedling to the transplant stage. There are trays that contain individual cells that hold a large number of seedlings in a small space. The individual cells should be at least 1-1/2" across unless you are prepared to set the plants out soon or are willing to repot them when they out-grow the original container.

Prepare the pots or cells by filling them with soil or a growing mix. Soilless growing mixes are recommended because they are free of weed seeds and soil pathogens. Remove the seedlings from their container in a clump. Carefully separate a seedling from the group with as little damage to the roots as possible.

When handling seedlings, hold them by a leaf, not the stem. If you damage a leaf the plant will live. Break the stem and the plant dies. Make a hole in the growing mix with your finger or a pencil. Place the seedling in the hole a little deeper than it was in the seed flat. Firm the soil around the roots. Water the newly transplanted seedling to settle the soil around the plant.

Fertilizer the potted up seedling once a week with a half strength solution of water soluble fertilizer. Keep them watered.

Maintain a temperature between 60 and 65 degrees.


Transplanting

A week before transplanting the seedling into the garden begin acclimating them to the relatively harsh outside conditions. During the warm part of the day set the seedlings outside in a shady, protected area. The first day allow them to stay outside for between two and three hours. Each day lengthen their stay outside.

Expose them to direct sun after the have been outside for a few days. Bring them inside if the weather turns cold. Reduce the amount of water to the plants a few days before you set them out.

Dig planting holes in well prepared soil large enough to hold the transplant comfortably. Carefully remove the plant from the pot with as little disturbance to the roots as possible. Place the plant in the hole and firm the soil around it. Water the plant.

Cloudy days and evenings are good times to set out transplants.

Email Frank Sommer

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Sommer in the garden
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Web site created September 26, 1999
Updated November 12, 2009