|
Lilies in the home garden
Lilies are among the most spectacular
plants that flower in our gardens. Unfortunately they have a
reputation as difficult plants to maintain. Hundreds of new hybrids
have made lilies dependable and relatively easy plant to grow
in our borders and gardens. There are a few things to keep in
mind as we put our lilies in this fall.
Location is important
The parents of most
hybrid lilies came from hillsides or mountain slopes and they
have learned to like their soil well-drained. Lilies will not
succeed where the soil does not drain. This is a basic condition
and if you can't provide it you can't grow lilies. The suggestion
often made by nursery men and gardens centers that you put sand
or gravel in the bottom of the planting hole under the bulb turns
the hole into a sump and causes more problems then it solves.
Digging the area to be
planted as deep as practical and working in sand and compost
eliminates most drainage problems. Planting on a slope is desirable
but not necessary.
Lilies love the sun and there are no varieties that succeed in deep shade and few that thrive in light shade. Choose your sunniest location. This conflicts with much that has been published, but experience and observation confirm it.
Protect lilies from strong
winds. This is especially important for tall varieties. Plant
oriental lilies away from trees,
Characteristics of lily bulbs
Lily bulbs differ
from the rest of our fall bulbs in two important ways. First,
unlike tulips and daffodils, there is no skin over the outside
of the bulb and as a result it is susceptible to mechanical damage
and to drying out once it is removed from the soil. Second, a
lily bulb is never completely dormant. This second condition
is the reason nursery ship lilies so late in the fall. They are
trying to ship during the period of least activity, but before
the ground freezes.
These two characteristics
of lilies should be kept in mind when purchasing lily bulbs.
Don't buy bulbs that are not protected from drying out. Any bulbs
displayed loose in a bin should be avoided. Bulbs stored near
heat are probably dried out to the point of worthlessness.
Examine the basal roots. They're the ones at the bottom of the bulb. These roots do not die off at the end of the growing season as do those on tulips and daffodils. They must be moist and fleshy. Don't buy bulbs if these roots are dried, broken or cut off. There is very little chance a bulb with damaged or missing basil roots will ever bloom.
Basal and stem roots
All lilies have
basil roots. Some lilies have a second type of roots called stem
roots Stem roots appear above the bulb and, as you must suspect,
grow from the stem. Stem roots, unlike basal roots die at the
end of the growing season. These roots or the absence of them
govern the depth to plant the bulb. Most lilies have its stem
roots and should be planted with four or five inches of soil
over the top of the bulb. Madonna lilies are one of the most
notable exceptions. It must be planted with the top of bulb at
soil level.
The basal roots of young
bulbs have an interesting characteristic that will help you if
you have planted a bulb too shallow. Some of the basal roots
are what are known as contractile roots. These roots grow into
the soil, anchor themselves and then become shorter pulling the
bulb down to the proper level.
Feeding lilies
After planting the bulbs resist
the urge to feed them. Lilies originated in soil where frugality
was a great virtue. Too much nitrogen causes one magnificent,
fatal season of growth. A mulch of enriched compost is the best
way to feed lilies. If you feel you must use chemical fertilizer,
a very light sprinkling of 5-10-10 may be put around the lilies
just after the growing season begins next spring.
Note
Native lilies should be
left in the wild unless they are threatened by the destruction
of their habitat. The ecological requirements of wild lilies
are so rigid they seldom survive relocation.
All garden lilies are winter
hardy in zone 6.
Email Frank
Sommer
main
page | gardening
links | site map |
