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My Experience With Japanese Thermal Hair Straightening By Gaelen Gates Updated May 2005 |
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When I was researching whether or not to get Japanese thermal straightening (also known as thermal reconditioning) done on my hair, I found a dearth of information about customers' actual experiences (i.e., not just the favorable reviews from people making money off it!). So I thought I would put up my own experience here for the benefit of people considering it. First off let me
say that I LOVE it. The results were almost everything I expected - my
formerly dull, frizzy hair is shiny, sleek, and stick-straight when blow-dried.
It feels soft and healthy. |
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As you can see from these "before" pictures, my hair wasn't that curly - it was very curly underneath, and more wavy on the top. It generally just ended up being kind of frizzy and messy-looking. |
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I
got the process done in September 2004. I had it done at Festoon
in San Francisco, because for many years I went to their Berkeley salon
and trust their skills. A friend also had great results at Posh in SF.
It is crucial to go to a salon you trust, where the stylist has a lot
of experience with the process. I've heard some horror
stories of people going to stylists who don't know what they're doing
and create hot spots with the flat iron, causing their hair to later break
off in those places.
Festoon uses the
Yuko System.
There are now a few different companies who manufacture the system,
so I can only vouch for Yuko. Whoever the salon decides to use, that
company manufactures the chemicals, flat iron, and sometimes aftercare
products you can buy. |
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| My straightening took
about four hours from start to finish. It consisted of three main steps.
First, my stylist washed my hair and put a chemical on it that essentially
broke down the structure of the hair. It smelled terrible! I had to sit
with that on my head (with saran wrap on it) for 30 minutes. Then he washed
that out, and blow-dried it just a little bit. The next phase was the actual
straightening - where he used a straightening iron to smooth out every single
strand of my hair, one tiny section at a time. This took about 2 hours.
When that was done, he put the final chemical on to "fix" the
new shape of the hair and lock in moisture. That sat on for about 10 minutes.
After a final wash, he blew it dry and I got to look at my amazing new hair!
I was warned that for 48 hours, I was not to wash my hair or get it wet in any way - including even having a sweaty workout! Also, you don't want to do anything like putting it in a ponytail or tucking it behind your ears, because any pressure you put on it could create a "crease" in the hair that won't come out. After the 48 hours is up, the hair has hardened completely into its new shape, and you're home free. |
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The straightening is permanent on the hair that's been done, so you only need to worry about the new growth. When they touch it up, they will only apply the chemicals to the new growth. Since my hair tends to be straight on the top, I was told to expect to need a touch up in about 9 to 12 months.
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This is how it looked when blow-dried, shortly after the treatment. Below shows my hair a couple of weeks after the treatment, when it was air-dried. There was a slight wave, but it was still mainly straight. I noticed recently on the Yuko website that they claim the process makes one's hair "humidity-proof." This has not been my experience. Now that it's winter and often foggy or drizzly, my hair does get a little frizzy. But living in the Bay Area it is not normally that humid, so this isn't a big problem for me.
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Here is how my hair looked three months after the treatment, having air-dried. I'd say it looked pretty much the same as when I initially got it done, except that I could definitely notice the inch or so of curly new growth when I flipped my hair upside down. |
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Again, this is three months after the treatment, without blow-drying. You could see a little bit more wave than when I first got it done. Close to my scalp, you can see where the new growth is starting to come in.
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I took the following pictures almost five months after the treatment -- here my hair has been blow-dried. Although the results are still great with blow-drying, it is increasingly wavy when I air-dry it. I will post some new air-dried pics when I get around to it. I should note that I do not need to use any special straightening technique or straightening iron when drying it, I just bend over and dry it on "high" with my hair hanging upside down. It is very easy. This is a huge improvement from my pre-treatment hair, which would not blow-dry straight even with tons of product and great effort.
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In the end of May 2005, I got it redone. It was about $100 cheaper than the initial application, but still took about 4 hours. It's a little bit messy here but you get the idea. |
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If I were to give any advice about the process, based on the research I did, I would say the three most important things I learned are: ONE: It's the stylist, not the chemical process, that matters. ONLY GO TO SOMEONE WITH EXPERIENCE, WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING, or else you are taking a risk with your hair. A lot of the steps involve judgment calls (for example, how long to leave the initial chemical on) that a stylist can only learn to do accurately with practice.This means that if you live in a fly-over state, there just may not realistically be a stylist near you yet who has substantial experience, and for that reason you may want to wait a year or two until TR becomes more popular and stylists are more familiar with it. Remember that this treatment is extremely expensive and therefore extremely profitable for salons, so many are rushing to jump on the bandwagon and offer it. It seems like every time I do an Internet search I'm confronted with more ads for salons claiming to be the "leading experts" in TR in their city, with links to websites where (littered with grammatical and spelling errors) they extol the miracles of TR. Don't merely take their word for it -- research their expertise and how long they have been doing the process. Make sure they have attended the specialized training courses offered by Yuko. TWO: Apparently Yuko has been trying to sell the idea that this treatment somehow "repairs" hair. IT DOES NOT. The hair may look healthier because it is shiny and sleek, but the treatment is much more damaging than a dye or perm, and you must be committed to taking good care of your hair, deep conditioning frequently, and not using permanent dyes or highlights in the future. Poor aftercare can result in the damage beginning to show, or even causing breakage in your hair. In choosing good conditioners for severely damaged hair, I highly recommend the book "Don't Go Shopping For Hair-Care Products Without Me" by Paula Begoun. THREE: Be realistic. Again, because there is such a profit to be made, salons have been extolling TR as if it were the Second Coming. It's a hair treatment, not a miracle. You will probably still have to blow-dry your hair if you want it pin-straight (see the differences between my blow-dried and air-dried pics above). Your hair will not necessarily be (as Yuko claims) "humidity-proof." Your hair will be damaged and will need special care. I think mine looks great, and I'm extremely happy with it, but the way some of these salons are hyping it you would think it would transform you into a supermodel. Remember -- you'll still be yourself, just with straight hair! If $600-700 is an astronomical amount of money for your budget, think about whether having straight hair is really worth it to you, so you don't end up with buyer's remorse. I recently read a good and balanced article on TR produced by 20/20, you can read it here: http://abcnews.go.com/2020/print?id=124236 I hope these pictures have been helpful to someone -- Good luck! |
| If you have more questions that my page didn't answer, please don't try to email me -- I am just putting the photos up here in case people want to see some real-life before and after pics, but I don't really have time or know-how to answer follow-up e-mails about the Yuko process. If you have further questions, please ask a salon that offers the service. |
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