So you're wishing you could extend the hiking season a bit longer? Well, that's why I decided to put this page up! The goal is to answer many of the questions that you might have. The same questions I once had and that virtually every new winter hiker has.

        Oh yeah, before I say any more let me clarify that I'm only going to cover day hikes on this page. What can I say? I confess! I've become a wimp with age and even though I love to hike in the cold weather I also like to come home to a nice warm bed at the end of the day!

        Before we start, let me give a strong disclaimer. All of the tips, techniques, gear suggestions and information on this page are simply things that I've learned over the years. They are in no way meant to be an exact guide to winter hiking! You are the only one responsible for your safety in the woods in winter. So read the info here and then get out there and start winter hiking at your own risk!

Index of Topics

The Basics Get The Right Gear Go With Experience Start Small Leave An Itinerary Understand Hypothermia Have Fun!

The Gear Clothing Boots Base Layer Insulating Layer Wind/Water Layer Head Wear Mittens/Gloves Gaiters "General" Gear Pack Trekking Poles Water Bottles Emergency Gear Head Lamp Foam Pad Food Ice Ax Snowshoes Crampons

My Gear List Helpful Hints Start Cold Stay Warm Stay Dry Keep Gear Handy Bring A Dry Bag Add "Pulls" To Everything Warm Power Practice! Hike Suggestions Hikes To AMC Huts Greeley Ponds Hikes With Views 4000 Footers Glossary

The Basics

• Get The Right Gear: I'll cover this topic further in the winter gear list and perhaps even the glossary if you're unfamiliar with some of the terminology of winter hiking. By placing Gear first I do not mean to imply that it is the most important topic when it comes to winter hiking. I don't think that it is, but I do think that having the right gear will help you to enjoy your first winter experiences so much more that it could make the decision as to whether or not you continue to winter hike! IF all you have is summer trail shoes, a light weight pair of cotton pants, perhaps a fleece jacket and a shell, then please, get the proper gear first and assure that you'll be warm and safe and have an enjoyable outing your first time out.

          No, I do not think that you need to go out and spend a fortune to purchase all the "needed" gear. I think that with some scavenging through the closet, some judicious shopping, a bit of borrowing and maybe even a trial rental or two, you can have all that you need without breaking the bank. I confess I do prefer many of the newer fabrics and high tech gear but I also know that people were hiking and enjoying the outdoors in winter long before any of these products were even imagined!

          Remember though, when winter hiking you may well find yourself in a rather cold and possibly uncomfortable environment and the only means of escape is a long walk back to the car. Even that's assuming that you don't get momentarily misplaced or a minor injury slows you down to the point where you will have to be able to keep yourself warm for as long as it takes. That's why it's so important to have at least a modest amount of the proper gear and to consider the next topic on the list...



Index of Topics

• Find Some Experienced Companions: All right, I must say that for those of you with little to no winter experience, this point is actually more important than the gear point. When I stressed the importance of the gear being first I was going under the assumption that if you were looking to winter hike than you most likely had some basic experience with the outdoors. If not, just swap this with the gear point and you'll be fine! Sure, you can learn on your own and from reading books but you'll learn much faster and have a much better time if you take your first few real winter hikes with someone that has some winter experience. If it's very cold out you'll find that simple things you never gave a thought to before are suddenly quite challenging! Things like having a bite to eat for example.


Index of Topics

• Start Small: It's much better to get out and have some fun, enjoy yourself and get comfortable with the winter environment on shorter, safer hikes than it is to plan Mount Washington as your first excursion. You're also going to find that you'll be carrying much more weight in your pack even if it's just a for a short day hike. Also, if you've never tried snowshoeing you may find that it's often much more tiring than regular hiking. You'll have an extra five or six pounds on your feet!

Index of Topics

• Leave An Itinerary: It's a good idea to practice this on all your hikes but in winter it becomes even more important. No need to make a big deal of it but make sure someone knows where you're planning on going and what to do if you don't return as scheduled.

          A couple of pointers....first, I have a "Word" document saved on my computer that has the phone numbers of who to call, all the specifics about me, height, weight etc. and other info like the make, model and year of the car I'm in and the plate number. I simply fill in the details of the trail I'm planning on hiking and I also include a back up trail incase I change my mind. That way whoever has the itinerary has all the info in front of them should they need to use it. They aren't caught struggling trying to tell the authorities what to look for. Second, the time you choose to declare as you scheduled return time needs to allow for a goodly margin of error. If you plan to end your hike by 4:30pm and it's a ninety minute drive home do not put 6:00pm as your return time!! There is absolutely no need to initiate a rescue if you're simply running a couple of hours late due to some minor circumstance beyond your control. Personally, and I am not suggesting that anyone else do this, but I generally give 10:00am the next morning as my return time. I know I'm prepared to spend a night in the woods if forced to and I feel that a major appeal of hiking is the self reliance it requires. I don't want search and rescue out looking for me simply because I got a tad misplaced or a mild sprain slowed me down too much to make it out of the woods on time. I know there's a risk involved and I also know that I, and let me say, even my wife, is comfortable with doing it this way. So whatever time you choose, just give yourself plenty of time!
  

  Index of Topics
  
• Understand Hypothermia: Why is hypothermia listed in the basics you ask? Because it is the number one killer of winter hikers and it is also a subject that most outdoors people know too little about! Simply put, hypothermia is a potentially fatal condition that results from your body being unable to maintain its core temperature. When that happens it begins to restrict blood flow to the extremities like your hands and feet in an attempt to keep your vital organs warm. The clinical definition would be, "Hypothermia: A decrease in the core body temperature to a level at which normal muscular and cerebral functions are impaired." It's vital that you realize that this condition can and does happen in ambient temperatures in the 40s and even 50s. It does not have to be 10 below for you to be concerned. The best advice I can give you is to learn as much as you can about hypothermia before you get too involved in any outdoor activity that does not provide one with access to immediate medical attention if needed.
  To learn more, check out these very informative web sites...
  • Keep Your Warmth: How to avoid, recognize, and treat hypothermia, from the AMC
  • Hypothermia: From WebMD
  
  
  
• Have Fun!: Yep, that sure sounds pretty basic but you need to know that hiking in the winter can be an absolute blast! So please, don't let all the details get you confused. They're not nearly as daunting as they at first may seem. If you start slow and get out there for a sunny afternoon stroll in the woods you'll love it and quickly be wanting more. In no time at all you'll be having so much fun you'll be wondering why it took you so long to try this!


Index of Topics

        With the basics covered above you're ready to start thinking about what you'll need for gear. This can get a bit confusing simply because it depends a great deal on exactly what you decide to do for a hike. Climbing a four thousand footer or venturing above treeline may require substantially more gear than a simple, level, couple mile hike into a pond or ledge or what have you. For that reason I'm going to try to give you enough information about the gear that I would say you should have for a short 3 or 4 hours out in the woods to what you'll need for climbing K2. Ok, perhaps not K2, but something in the Presidential Range for example. Just keep in mind that if you're going to start with a nice short walk on a well traveled trail to a nearby outlook you probably won't need to be as concerned with some of the points I mention. The point is to get out there and have fun! Be safe, be cautious but do not let that detract from seeing and hearing the beauty of the forest in winter!

        I'll tell you right up front that the gear list or any similar list is a very personal thing. Some people take much less, some much more. In my opinion it depends greatly on your level of experience with hiking in general. If you've been hiking in the Spring and Fall for years you're probably pretty familiar with how your body responds to cold, wind, etc. You're also more likely to know what you feel you should carry for first aid and other "emergencies."

        There's also the risk factor to consider. Only you know how much risk you are comfortable with. I know of many winter hikers that carry much less than I would feel is adequate in winter but they look at it differently. In their opinion the worse thing that can happen is that they have to spend a cold night outdoors or something similar. For me, it's not worth risking my toes or fingers to frostbite or worse, risking my life, in the name of having fun or trying to prove something out in the winter wonderland!

Clothing

• Boots: One of the most important pieces of gear you'll need is a warm pair of boots. There is much debate over just what type of boot is best and much of it once again comes back to the type of hike you'll be doing and the type of person you are. There are several options and here they are in no particular order.

  First is to winter hike in regular summer weight hiking boots. I know that many think this type of boot doesn't provide enough warmth but I also know that I've used them and know of dozens of others that have also. Now, if you your summer "boots" are a lightweight, low, fabric type then I am by no means saying that they will do. For years I used a pair of all leather mid to heavy weight summer back packing boots for winter hiking. It's important to note that they were purchased in a size large enough to allow me to wear a liner sock, a vapor barrier sock and then a very heavy wool sock. They kept my feet warm and toasty on every hike I did as long as the temps were not below zero. If they were, I simply didn't hike that day.

Second is to use a "pac" type of boot like a pair of Sorels. I do know people that use these and I have seen them on the trail on occasion but I personally prefer something with more support. I don't think my feet could walk all day in a boot that's as loose and floppy on my foot as these types of boots are. But, if you're doing shorter hikes or your feet are not like mine then these may work fine for you. You can certainly buy them that are rated to temperatures much lower than anything you may encounter in the average New England winter.

Third is an all leather insulated hiking boot. These are becoming more and more popular as many people discover them and find that they can be much more comfortable than a plastic boot and fit much better than a "pac" boot. They don't have nearly the insulation but that can be over come in other ways and if you're going to be hiking up a mountain you will most likely not want a boot that's rated for 100 below anyway. This has become my boot of choice and I've tried probably a dozen different boots and boot combinations over the years. Many find that the biggest obstacle to using this type of boots it their price. They can often be $250 to $400 but if you shop wisely you can do much better.

Fourth is a plastic double boot. For those unfamiliar with this type of boot think of a ski boot. Well it's not exactly the same it is a rigid plastic shell with a softer, removable inner bootie. If you're doing any serious alpine mountaineering, going out for longer than a day hike, ice climbing or just tend to have very cold feet then these may be the boot for you.



Index of Topics

• Base Layer: In winter as in any season the best way to stay comfortable is to use a layering system rather than to try to stay warm with one big heavy jacket. As you hike more in winter you'll learn that staying cool is more of a challenge than staying warm! If all you've got is that big arctic down jacket you'll be nice and toasty when you start up the trail but in no time at all, especially if you're snowshoeing and carrying a heavy pack you'll be much, much too warm. Then you begin to perspire, get damp and then come time to stop for a break you'll be freezing in no time at all. So I start with a pair of long underwear made of one of the many modern synthetic fabrics. An important point to note here is that you should really try to avoid cotton clothes of any type when winter hiking. There's an old mountaineering adage that says, "Cotton kills!" Cotton loses nearly all it's insulating qualities when wet. Where as fleece or wool will insulate even if wet. If you don't have, don't like, or simply can't afford fleece then don't forget that wool is what was used for years and will keep you warm even when wet. The big advantage of the newer synthetic fabrics is that they not only insulate even when wet but they dry astoundingly rapidly! For me, it's impossible to not sweat while hiking and these types of fabrics dry amazingly quickly so even if I'm cold all I have to do is to slow down for 20 or 30 minutes to the point where I'm not sweating and in that amount of time the base layer is nearly dry! Up top I generally wear a synthetic T Shirt and over that I wear a long sleeve zip turtle neck shirt of the same fabric. That way I can vent the turtle neck and if I really start over heating I can strip down to just the T Shirt. Yep, it's true, it's not uncommon to be climbing up a trail on a winter's day and see people in T Shirts and even shorts!


Index of Topics

• Insulating Or Middle Layer: Again this one varies depending on the temps and just what you're doing but you will want at least one layer of fleece and perhaps more. What I do once the T Shirt and Turtle Neck aren't enough to keep me warm is put on a mid weight fleece vest. That generally does the trick in all but the coldest conditions or when I'm stopped. If not, I also carry a mid weight fleece jacket. For those times that I'm at rest, or for an emergency I also carry mid weight down jacket if I'm going to be out for long, am going very far, or if I'm venturing above the treeline.


Index of Topics

• Wind/Rain Or Outer Layer: On top of what ever you need to keep you warm you will often need some type of wind and/or water proof layer. In winter this will be worn much more for it's wind shedding qualities than for it's waterproofness. Especially if venturing above treeline, as it's there that you'll find that the wind is seldom still in the winter! The big question is, is it necessary to buy the modern, high tech, waterproof/breathable fabrics or not. Unfortunately, once again, there is no set in stone answer here. If you are the type that tends to sweat very little in winter than I would say, no you don't need to spend the extra money on the high tech fabrics. Of course on the other extreme, you may sweat like I do in winter, profusely! In that case you'll want every advantage you can get to help rid yourself of perspiration when the winds force you to wear some type of shell layer. Personally I DO use a waterproof/breathable shell BUT I want to make sure to make it known that there is no way that it "breathes" nearly enough to keep me dry! The only solution for folks like me is to avoid putting the shell on until it is positively necessary! A very handy feature to look for when purchasing pants is that they have zippers that run the full length of both legs. This makes it much easier to put them on without having to remove your boots etc.


Index of Topics

• Head Wear: I called it head wear because there is such a diversity of products out there to wear on your head that it's not adequate to refer to the entire group simply as hats anymore. What I find works best is to have some type of lighter hat for the times when you're climbing or the temps are high. Some people use a simple headband in this instance. Then you'll want a good heavy hat of either fleece or wool that covers your ears well. And, for those really cold and/or windy times you'll want something like a balaclava. If you don't go the balaclava route than you can use your hat with a simple inexpensive face mask but it is important that you be able to cover every inch of exposed flesh if the temps get too low. When the temps are below zero and there's a wind it's quite possible for exposed flesh to freeze in as little as a minute or two! Yes, that's what I said, freeze! Frostbite can happen just that fast!


Index of Topics

• Mittens/Gloves Personally I seldom wear gloves other than as a base layer. By wearing a thin "liner" glove you can avoid ever having to expose bare skin. Even if you must take off your mittens you still have something to protect your hands and to keep them from freezing to steel crampons or snowshoes. You should most likely have at least a couple of pairs of liner gloves, a pair or two of good warm fleece or wool mittens and a pair of shell mitts to cover everything and keep the mittens etc. dry. If the trees, branches and everything else is snow covered it's important to either make a conscious effort to not grab things to pull yourself along etc. unless you put on the shell mitts right away. It takes very little time to end up with soaking wet mittens that become very cold, very quickly!


Index of Topics

• Gaiters: These are a occasionally handy to have for hiking in the other three seasons but they are almost a necessity in winter. I rarely hike without some type of gaiters on. The primary reason to wear them in winter is to keep the snow out of the tops of your boots. All it takes is a tiny bit of snow on this step, a bit more on that step, a bit of melting and the next thing you know the tops of your socks, and eventually all of your sock is completely soaked! The big advantage of super gaiters is that they cover the entire boot and basically "seal" around the soul of the boot. This keeps everything, laces etc. from getting snowy and icy. In addition it provides a bit of warmth for your feet, especially if you buy a pair of insulated super gaiters. One pointer, it's almost inevitable that the toe section of the gaiter works its way up to the top of your boot leaving your toes sticking out and basically becoming a great little snow scoop! The solution that I and most others use is to put a dab of barge cement or contact cement on the tip of your boot and the tip of the gaiter. As that clearly implies, super gaiters are not something that you are frequently putting on and taking off your boots. I tend to put mine on when the real cold and snow season starts, say mid to late December and they stay there until it warms up a bit in mid March. Not to worry though, even with the glue it's quite easy to pull them off and it does no harm to the boots. Just remember when applying it that you're not trying to bond them for life, you're simply trying to keep that toe section from wandering up your boot.

General Gear

• Pack: What you choose to use for a pack will depend of course on what type of hike you'll be doing and on just what you feel you need to carry. Personally I find that for anything other than the shortest of day hikes, my pack needs to be in the 3000 cubic inch range and generally weighs between 20 and 30 pounds with snowshoes and crampons attached. An important consideration in picking a pack for winter would be that it have some means to attach your snowshoes when you don't need them on your feet. This can generally be accomplished by using mini bungee cords or accessory straps of some sort.


Index of Topics

• Trekking Poles: These certainly are not needed on any hike and are down right foolish on others but let me say that if you've never spent much time on snowshoes you will find the poles very helpful in keeping the number of times that you plant your face in the snow down to a bare minimum!


Index of Topics

• Water Bottles/Bladder: Having enough water to drink can become a real issue even on a winter day hike. I have tried many different methods and found that for me the most effective is to carry my water in a wide mouth nalgene bottle inside some type of insulation and placed upside down in my pack. I generally carry one liter this way and then have another liter in a water bottle parka that's attached to the bottom of one of my packs shoulder straps thus enabling me to get a drink of water without taking off the pack. The "parkas" are widely available and cost between $10.00 and $20.00. They will keep the water from freezing for most of the day as long as the temperature is not too far below zero. I also occasionally simply place the water bottle inside a couple of heavy socks. This method does work but does not seem to work quite as well as the insulated parkas do. By placing the bottles upside down in your pack you at least assure that if the water does begin to freeze the ice will be at the bottom of the bottle and thus not hinder you from drinking the remaining water.

          I've also tried using a hydration pack but have been unimpressed with this method of carrying water in the winter. Even though I purchased an insulated bladder and the "thermal kit" that covers the tubing and the gulp valve I've found it will still begin freezing if the temperatures are in the single digits or below. In my opinion the safest, easiest and most effective way to carry drinking water is the good old fashioned way, in the nalgene bottles! Another handy tip, if you add some type of drink mix to your water like Gatoraide, the sugar will allow the temps to get a bit lower before your water freezes.

          This would also be a good place to mention that water filters will freeze up and be destroyed by the winter temperatures and also that purification tablets work much more slowly in cold temperatures. Personally I use iodine tablets and in winter put in one extra and leave it for at least 45 minutes. That's if I'm forced to get more water. For these reasons I find it easier to just carry all the water I'll need for a day hike rather than try to get to a frozen stream, fill the bottle, treat it, etc.



Index of Topics

• Emergency Gear: Ok, here's another category that is quite varied from one hiker to the next so I'll give you my idea of what "emergency gear" consists of. Many people carry next to nothing others carry the kitchen sink. The one thing I ask myself if I'm going to be any further than a short walk from "civilization" is what would I need to survive an unplanned night out without too much discomfort. I by no means think that I'll be enjoying myself but I do want to have enough that I don't end up with frostbite! In that vane, here's what I may be carrying at any given time.
• Food: A bit of chocolate & a few hard candies. I'm not looking to chow down I'm simply trying to have a little something to keep my metabolism up if I end up out for longer than expected.
• Extra Clothes: Just enough to ensure that I will not freeze if forced to spend the night out. Many people carry a sleeping bag and/or a tent for this purpose. There are pros and cons of both techniques. By carrying a down jacket, a pair of fleece pants and some extra socks in a waterproof bag I know that even if everything else gets wet I still have some dry clothes to keep me warm for the night. The advantage of this system is that they can be used at any time, not only for an emergency bivouac. If it just turns out to be colder than planned I have that extra clothing. The down side to this technique and the best reason for opting to go the sleeping bag route is that in the case of an injury or if I were mildly hypothermic it would be extremely difficult to strip off my wet clothes and get into dry ones. Where as it would be comparatively simple to pull out the sleeping bag and climb inside of it.
• Shelter: If you're out in winter you really should have some means of shelter if you're forced to spend the night. Some people carry a tent, yes even on day hikes. Personally I carry a bivy sack. The idea is to be prepared for whatever may happen.
• Fire Starter: Sadly, starting a fire is becoming a lost art and it certainly can not be counted on as a possibility in all circumstances but in some situations it could literally be a life saver! I carry some water/wind proof matches, a small "Bic" lighter, a small piece of candle and a piece of "fire starter" that can be purchased at most good outdoor stores. It's also important to get some practice in using these items.
• Repair Kit: It needn't be terribly extensive but it's a good idea to be able to make basic gear repairs while in the field.
  • Duct Tape: I have a couple of yards wrapped around the top of my trekking poles.
  • Cable Ties: These are the handiest little items imaginable for repairing everything from a broken snowshoe to building a basic splint
  • Cord: I carry about 20 feet of nylon cord, again handy for many purposes.
  • Safety Pins: 3 or 4 of assorted sizes
• Emergency Blanket: I prefer something a bit more sturdy than the conventional emergency blanket. For about $20.00 you can purchase one that is designed like a sleeping bag with a Velcro "zipper" that even has a sort of lining. Much more rugged and much less likely to blow away than the more basic ones.
• Chemical Heat Packs: These little things are amazing. They are simply a small packet of chemicals that produce heat when opened. They come in various sizes that can be inserted into your mittens to warm your fingers or your boots to warm your toes. If forced to spend the night out somewhere they may make the difference on whether or not fingers or toes get frost bitten.
• Large Trash Bag: These can be used for a multitude of purposes including; Pack Cover, Rain Coat, Bivy Sack, Water Collection Aid
• Cell Phone: Yep, that's right, I put it as the last item of emergency gear because that's where I believe it should be. Hiking, especially in winter should be a sport of self reliance. You should be prepared to take care of yourself no matter what happens! I generally do not carry a phone but if you do decide to carry one, please be advised that your chances of getting a signal in the mountains is 50/50 at best. So again, be prepared and I the way I figure it, if I need to be prepared to take care of myself if the phone doesn't work, why even carry it?


• Head Lamp: Any type of flashlight will do the trick but a headlamp is so much simpler to use and it allows you to keep your hands free that it's my choice. I also carry a spare bulb and spare batteries. In winter you'll find that lithium batteries will last much longer in the cold and it's a good idea to keep any batteries in your pocket to keep them warm. For that reason there are headlamps designed specifically for winter that have the batteries in a unit that attaches somewhere under your jacket and has a wire that leads to the light itself. That way the batteries are kept warmer at all times.


Index of Topics

• Foam Pad: Even if you are not going to be out overnight you're still apt to enjoy having a foam pad along. What I've done is taken an older foam pad and cut about a two foot section of it off. This is just fantastic at break time to give you a nice dry, insulated place to sit down. It can also be an extremely handy piece of emergency gear, used to keep you off the snow if you're forced to spend the night out in the elements!


Index of Topics

• Food: This is one thing that many people love about winter hiking, no worries about food spoiling in the high temps! But, don't forget that many foods will freeze so hard you'll never be able to eat them out on the trail! For that reason and the fact that it's not quite so easy to stop and take a leisurely lunch break, I tend to bring very simple foods on winter hikes. I stick with your basic gorp. I fill one bag with a salty mix, things like pretzels, crackers, precut bites of cheese etc. Then I fill another bag with sweets. Another method is to carry the gorp in a wide mouth nalgene bottle that is attached to the outside of your pack thus enabling you to grab a snack without even having to take the pack off!


Index of Topics

• Ice Ax: Whoa, did I just say ICE AX? Yes I did but it's very important that you understand that there are only a handful of general hiking trails in all of New England that really require the use of an ax. Even more importantly, if you do not know the proper techniques for using one then it actually becomes more of a hazard than a help and you should just leave it's use to the more experienced! IF you do decide you are going to be climbing Mount Washington and you want to purchase an ax then make sure that it's a general mountaineering ax and not a technical ice climbing ax. Let me point out though that there are more than a few people that have climbed all of the 4000 foot peaks in New Hampshire in winter and have done so without ever using an ax!


Index of Topics

• Snow Shoes: Yet another very diverse gear category. There are so many types of snowshoes available today that once again you're going to have to make some type of decision as to which are best for you. If you don't own a pair and can't borrow a pair, let me suggest that you try renting before you lay out the money for new shoes. That will give you some idea of what works best for you. You'll also have to make some type of decision on what you will be wanting to use them for. If you want to go off into the wilds after a fresh new snow and not have to worry about a trail you'll want a large shoe with a lot of "floatation". Floatation is simply a term used to express how well the shoe will keep you "floating" on top of the snow. If you're going to be hiking mostly on well used trails then they will generally be packed down and you can use a smaller shoe.
  
  
  • Snowshoe Terminology:
  • Frame: The most fundamental part of the snowshoe, the frame holds everything else together.
  • Decking: This is what provides the flotation on the snow. On wooden shoes it's generally made of rawhide or a synthetic equivalent stretched between the sides of the frame. On newer shoes it's generally a sheet of some type of synthetic that is attached to the frame with rivets. On the newest plastic shoes, the frame and decking are all one and the same.
  • Crampons: Similar to the crampons that would be attached to your boots these crampons are attached to your snowshoes to aid you in climbing steep and/or icy terrain.
  • Bindings: This is what holds your boot to the snowshoe. On wooden shoes it's a simple leather strap system. On newer shoes it varies how they choose to hold your boot in. Make sure it's something that will hold your boot tightly and more importantly make sure it's something you can get in and out of with a minimum of hassle even with cold, mittened hands!
  
  
  • Basic Snowshoe Types
  • Wooden: Here's a picture of my classic wooden shoes. These are the classic old style of snowshoes that you see hanging as decoration on the camp wall. They are still made and still used and are actually the shoe of choice if you're going to be breaking trail on two feet of fresh powder. They provide lots of floatation, can be easily repaired in the field and last for years with proper maintenance.
  • Aluminum: Here's a picture of my "Atlas 10 series" aluminum shoes.These are what you'll see the most of these days. Once upon a time these were considered the latest and greatest but now there are even newer technologies showing up on the trail. The advantages of this type of snowshoe are that it is immeasurably more durable than the old wooden shoes, they are often much lighter and they generally have a crampon system that provides a level of traction that the old timers never even dreamt of!
  • Plastic: Here's a picture of my "MSR Denali Ascent" plastic shoes.This is the newest type of shoe out there. The entire shoe, frame, decking and all is molded from some type of plastic. The advantages are, weight, simplicity and added "gimicks" like a heel lifter. That once seemed foolish to me but after purchasing a pair of these shoes and using the little lever that essentially helps to level your foot even when you are climbing a steep hill, I was sold! It truly makes a difference on how beat up your calves get on a long up hill! The other great thing about this type of shoe is that on many of them you can vary the floatation by adding tail pieces. This way you've actually got two or three pairs of snowshoes in one!
  
  
  • Size/Floatation: The size, more commonly the length of the shoe you choose determines to a large degree how well you'll stay on top of the snow. Let me clarify here though that if you're unfamiliar with snowshoeing you're going to discover that no matter how large of a shoe you use it will not keep you entirely on top of the snow! The method used to determine the right shoe for you is based on your weight. Actually that will be the entire weight on the shoes, i.e. you, your clothing, your pack etc. Each manufacturer has a formula to determine that a person of "X" weight needs a shoe of "Y" length. Larger shoes will undoubtedly help keep you on top of the snow but keep in mind that many times the trail will be packed and the shoes will not be on your feet they will be attached to your pack. The larger they are the more they weigh and the more of a challenge they will be to carry. Also, the longer they are the more difficulty you'll have when trying to negotiate sharp turns, step over fallen trees and generally maneuver in the woods. So, my advice would be to by the smallest shoe you can get away with. Or to put it another way, if your total weight is 200 lbs and the manufacturer says that one shoe is rated for 150 pounds to 195 pounds and the next size up is for 200 to 250 pounds, go with the smaller ones! You'll see many, many people on the trail that are using shoes that are really too small for them by the manufacturers standards. More often than not I wear a pair of shoes that is rated for a maximum weight that is 20 to 30 pounds below what I weigh.
  
  
  
  • Traction: Unless you're only planning short walks in local fields you're most likely going to be doing some degree of climbing and you're also likely to encounter times when the snow is packed and hard as ice. That's where you'll want to have some type of crampon attached to the shoe. On the old wooden shoes the best you can do is a very basic steel attachment that does help, but not very well when compared with the newer shoes. This is a very important point to consider if you plan on using the shoes to climb New Hampshire’s 4000 footers or do any other significant climbing. You'll most likely observe that this is one of the most fundamental changes in the less expensive or "recreational" shoes and the more costly "back country" or "mountaineering" shoes. Again, if you plan on climbing, spend the extra and get a pair with a good hefty crampon. This is an area that the plastic type of shoes excel at. Due to the way they are molded there is much more attention paid to giving you lots of braking power!
    
    
  • Manufacturers Web Sites
    • Atlas Snow Shoe Company
    • Mountain Safety Research Snow Shoes
    • Northern Lites Snow Shoes
    • Redfeather Snow Shoes
    • Sherpa Snow Shoes
    • Tubbs Snow Shoes


Index of Topics

• Crampons: If you're going to be doing any climbing and especially if you're going to be tackling some four thousand footers or going above treeline, you'll most likely want some type of crampon. Let me say though, unless you're going to be doing technical ice climbing or you plan on doing some glacier travel, you do not necessarily need big 12 point step in crampons! You will want something that attaches firmly to whatever boots you will be using in the winter so my suggestion would be to take those boots to a good outdoor retailer and ask what they sell for crampons that would work with them. There are numerous types of crampons but the basic division would be between flexible and rigid. Unless you are planning on ice climbing with them I would recommend you stay away from the rigid ones. If you're going to be using them with a softer boot that has some flex in the sole you will need to get the flexibles anyway. The next major difference is in how they attach to your boots. If you're using a plastic boot or a very stiff leather boot with the right sole attachment then you will be able to get a type of crampon called, "step in". All that means is that they will attach to your boot in a manner not too unlike the way you'd attach your boot to a ski rather than with a system of straps. The big advantage there is that you will be able to put them on and take them off much more quickly if you get the step in kind. When it's 10 below, that'll seem much more important than it may right now!



• Crampon Terminology
• Rigid: Rigid crampons are exactly that, rigid. There is no flex to them and they are designed primarily for ice climbing and must be used on a boot that has a completely rigid sole. For general hiking, stay away from this type.
• Flexible: Flexible crampons will have some arrangement that allows them to flex or bend to some degree making them much more comfortable to use on a non rigid boot. This is the type that most hikers choose.
• Instep: Here's a picture of my Grivel Gripper 6 point Instep Crampons.These are essentially mini crampons that have a small number of short spikes that point downward from your instep. If you're not doing anything too steep and you're willing to turn around if things get too icy then these may work excellently for you.
• Step In: This type of crampon uses varying systems to allow you to attach then to your boots much more rapidly. Essentially by simply stepping into them. This is very handy when it's cold and you're on a "mixed route" that forces you to put the crampons on and then take them off again many times a day. They do require a rigid boot with a welt that allows attachment.
• Hybrid: Here's a picture of my Kong 12 point Hybrid Crampons. This is an arrangement designed to allow you to have a nearly step-in binding without having to have a welt or groove on the front of your boot.
• Strap On: Here's a picture of my Stubai 10 Strap On Crampons.This was the only type of crampon there was for many, many years but now is quickly becoming obsolete as newer, faster methods of attachment are being implemented.
• Points: The number of points or spikes on each crampon varies from 4 for a simple instep crampon to 6 for more elaborate insteps and on up to 10 or 12 points. Many prefer 12 point crampons but unless you're doing some pretty technical climbing most people doing general hiking in New England will be perfectly happy with a pair of 10 point crampons. The big difference is that they have two less points aiming forward. Why's that a big deal you ask. Well it's those front points that seem to find a way to trip you, to slice up your pant legs or gaiters and to generally make you change your stride more as you walk!
• Antibotts: These are plastic plates that attach to your crampons to help keep snow from balling up under your foot which can become a real problem in the right conditions.


• Manufacturers Web Sites
• Grivel
• Black Diamond
• Camp
• Cassin
• Charlet Moser

I realize that most all of this gear was covered about in the "Gear" section but I thought it might prove handy to have a copy of my actual gear list in a bit more concise form, so here it is. Please understand that each hike is different. If the temps are forecasted to be on the warm side or if I'm doing a hike that is not going to be too long or go above the treeline I will lean toward the lighter side of the list. Perhaps only bringing one pair of liner gloves instead of 2 or 3. If the temps are going to be very cold or it's going to be a 10 or 12 hour day, then I may just bring an extra pair of mittens, an extra hat etc. This list will give you an excellent place to start. From there, follow the other tips on this page, get some experience, ask around, or send me some mail and I'll do my best to help.

• Synthetic Lightweight Base Layer: Worn not packed; Bottoms & Tops, Zip T Neck for top
• Synthetic Liner Gloves: Wear one; bring one or two
• Synthetic Liner Socks: Wear one pair
• Vapor Barrier Socks: Only worn if temps are going to stay below 15 or so
• Socks: I use a very heavy wool sock
• Boots:
• Gaiters or Super Gaiters:
• Synthetic Mittens: Mid weight; Depending on weather, wear one and bring one or two
• Waterproof Outer Mittens:
• Fleece Vest: I generally use a "Wind Block" vest
• Fleece Jacket: I generally use a 300 weight Jacket
• Down Jacket: Carried on longer or colder trips for rest stops and for emergencies
• Waterproof/Breathable Wind/Rain Shell:
• Waterproof/Breathable Wind/Rain Pants: With full side zips
• Fleece Hat: I wear a hat that is fleece lined, nylon outer, with ear flaps
• Pack: Short hikes; 2000 cubic inch. Longer hikes; 3050 cubic inch
• Water: Two to three liters in wide mouth nalgene bottles
• Bivy Sack:
• First Aid Kit:
• Whistle:
• Pack Cover:
• Foam Pad: Or a portion of one
• Small Knife: Personally I carry one of the smallest and lightest "multi tools" that are available.
• Head Lamp: With extra batteries
• Compass:
• Map:
• Trail Description: Generally copied from the AMC White Mountain Guide
• Bandanna: Two or three for a multitude of uses
• Snow shoes:
• Ice Ax: Extremely rare that I bother to carry one but I do keep it on the list
• Crampons:
• Balaclava:
• Altimeter: Useful for judging where I am!
• Thermos: IF it's brought it will have either hot soup or cocoa in it
• Sunglasses:
• Goggles: Essential in extreme cold or high wind
• Large Trash Bag:
• Trekking Poles:
• Camera: I use a digital camera and I put a spare set of batteries in my pocket to keep them warm

• Start Cold: Ok, I know this sounds foolish and it even sounds like it contradicts advice I've give elsewhere on this page but it's another lesson that took me a while to get down! I get to the trailhead, get out of the car, put on my boots, adjust my poles, grab my pack etc. etc. etc. By then I'm thinking its freezing cold out so I put on my jacket, or shell, or whatever and head up the trail. Almost without exception within 15 minutes I'm too warm and have to stop to take something off. Trouble is, if I stop that soon by the time I get the jacket off, put it in the pack and start out again, I'm chilly! And on it goes. So I've just learned that when I leave the car I put on what I think I'll need a good half hour down the trail. For me, if it's in the 10 - 20 degree range that's my zip turtle neck and maybe the vest. If it's near zero, the turtle neck and undoubtedly the vest. I will not put on more to start the hike unless the temp is zero or below as I've learned what's coming!



• Stay Warm: No, this does not contradict the first "hint." Staying warm may sound obvious but I know how many times I was thinking, "Boy I'm getting cold," but kept going either hoping to warm up or just plain being lazy and not wanting to stop to put on more clothes. Trust me, it's much, much easier to stay warm than it is to get warm once you're cold. IF you're a bit too chilly either stop and take care of it or at the very least pick up the pace for a few minutes to see if that warms you up. If not, stop! As for the balance between this "hint" and the previous one, there's only one way for you to find the balance and that's for you to get out there and see how your body responds. I'm simply hoping to share a bit of personal experience to hopefully speed up your learning process a bit. It wont take long for you to realize that regulating your temperture is one of the biggest challenges and yet another of those things that can only be learned by doing.



• Stay Dry: Another point that seems pretty obvious but I'm going to mention it anyway. That little bit of snow that falls on your shoulders as you duck under the tree, the dusting of snow on your mittens from grabbing that branch, all of it quickly melts and makes you very wet! It's very beneficial to make an effort to brush it off a.s.a.p before it melts. Simple? Yup! Worth it? Yup!

          Another area that the "stay dry" rule applies to is perspiration. It's common to hear or read how important it is for you to adjust your clothing to make sure that you never, never allow yourself to become damp or yikes, worse yet, wet from sweating! All I can say is that many years of winter hiking has taught me that the concept is sound, the application impossible for many of us! If I put 15 or 20 pounds on my back, snowshoes on my feet and then climb a moderately steep trail I am going to sweat big time! It can be 10 degrees and I'm wearing only a T Shirt and I WILL be dripping sweat! Many other's are the same way. So, be as careful as you can and certainly don't have on that huge down parka as you plod up the hill but you may just have to be realistic about it. Some people are going to sweat, that's all there is to it! Strip down as far as you can and make sure that you do have a dry layer to put on incase of emergency but there's not too much else you can do. That's why it's not uncommon in the dead of winter to see people hiking in shorts! I've seen it more than a few times!

          A pointer...I DID say to have something dry with you but don't make the mistake of being an hour into an 8 hour hike and being all sweaty and putting on your dry clothes. If you do that you no longer have the dry clothes! You just come to accept that when you stop for a break you're going to get cold faster than the person that is bone dry. What I do is to have a down jacket in my pack to pull out during breaks if needed but I try to not put on so much that I prevent my wet clothes from breathing and drying out. One thing that is very helpful is to anticipate the break coming and slow waaayyyy down for the last 10 or 15 minutes so that you stop perspiring and your clothes get a chance to dry a bit. Here's the big reason I love the newer synthetic fabrics. I can have a base layer that's more than damp and within 20 minutes of not sweating and the breeze blowing it's totally dry. I've tried many but so far the best that I've used is "Micronamics" by The North Face. Expensive? Yep, but it dries so much faster that I'll never use anything else. If you come across some other amazing secrets that help to keep you dry, please let me know!!




• Gear Access: This may sound obvious or perhaps not necessary but the first time that your fingers are so cold that they won't seem to do what you're telling them to do and you're elbow deep in your pack searching for your dry mittens, you'll feel very differently about it! I make certain that things like extra mittens, a hat and the like are always in an outside pocket and ready to grab quickly. If the temps are very cold I'll take a pair of my heaviest, warmest mittens and stuff them, wrist end down, into the mesh side pockets of my pack. That way IF my hands get so cold that I can't seem to undo a zipper I can grab those mittens and stuff my hands into them until they warm up. When I use a pack that doesn't have lots of pockets I take things like mittens and put them all in a colored mesh stuff sack. Maybe something like mittens in yellow, hats in red, etc. That way when I have to get into the pack I can just search for "red" and not have to spend so long trying to find a couple of simple pieces of gear.


Index of Topics

• Dry Bag: This is something that most hikers do year round but in winter you'll really want to have some nice comfy, warm, dry clothes awaiting you back in your car! That way if you get wet from the elements or simply from perspiration you at least know that all you have to do is to make it back to the car and you'll be comfortable again. Even if your car has great heat, when it's 5 degrees out you will not want to be trying to dry out your wet clothes on the way home as you may be able to when the temperature is much higher!



• Zipper Pulls: You'll find it extremely beneficial to attach some type of "zipper pull" to all zippers on your pack, clothing etc. You can purchase commercially made pulls or you can simply take a short (2 or 3 inches) piece of old boot lace, run it through the zipper and knot it. This makes it possible to find, grasp and pull the zippers without having to remove your mittens! A very handy thing when the temp is 10 below!



• Warm Power: Warm Power? Ok, what I mean is if you're using batteries to power your camera, head lamp or anything else you'll find that keeping the batteries warm makes a huge difference in their performance. When using my digital camera I keep one set of batteries in the camera and another set in a pocket as close to my body as possible. That way they are warm and ready to use if needed. Another pointer...lithium batteries function in much lower temperatures than other common battery types.



• Practice: Trust me it's much better to find out in the warmth of your home that your shell doesn't fit over your insulating layer and many similiar lessons. Things like putting on your snowshoes with mittens on can be quite tricky until you've done it a few times. Sooo, practice at home!

• Lonesome Lake: Let me start by saying that I am not personally I huge fan of the huts but I will admit that they make fantastic objectives for newer winter hikers. It can be awfully nice to have a warmer, dryer place to relax in the middle of your hike! This has just become a more plausible winter hike for beginners due to the fact that the AMC now keeps its Lonesome Lake Hut open in the winter. The trail is 1.6 miles long with roughly one thousand feet of vertical rise. The destination will be a frozen lake with spectacular views of the Franconia Range and the assurance that if it's really cold you can at least get out of the wind and warm up a bit inside the hut. The hut is not heated but if it's 5 degrees and blowing snow out you'll be surprised how warm it will feel. You'll use the Lonesome Lake Trail that leaves from Franconia Notch, NH.
• Carter Notch: This is a great winter hike for the same reason as above. There is a hut at the end. It is much longer at just under 4 miles to the hut but it is a spectacular area to see in the winter. The two Carter Lakes, the towering cliffs and the massive boulders make this area seem wild and remote even though the Hut is nearby. For this hike you'll be using the Nineteen Mile Brook Trail which leaves from Rt. 16, Pinkham Notch, NH.
• Greeley Ponds: Ok, no hut this time but some lovely frozen ponds, some impressive towering ledges and a hike with very little vertical rise all make this a great winter stroll. You can do this hike from the Kancamagus Highway in about 3 miles round trip or you can do it from the other side, from Waterville Valley and make it twice as long. Either way you'll be using the Greeley Pond Trail.
• Mountains With Views: If you're really wanting to climb a mountain and have a view than let me suggest several of the better "smaller" mountains to try. My list would include, Hedgehog, Potash, Willard and several others. But that gives you a good place to start researching from.
• 4000 Footers: Ok, so you're really bent on doing a 4000 footer huh? Well if you feel that's what you want to do then let me suggest what I consider to be the two best 4000 footers for newer winter hikers. First is Mount Tecumseh in Waterville Valley. You'll be starting and ending in a ski area, there will be lots of people around and it's only 2.2 miles to the summit. In my opinion it has to be the "safest" 4000 footer to do in winter. The other favorite of mine is Mount Jackson in Crawford Notch. It's just a bit longer than Tecumseh but it actually breaks out of the trees for the last hundred yards or so! There are a couple of steeper pitches near the very top that could possibly require some crampons or some ingenuity to get up but it will give you that big mountain feel for a small mountain effort!

Glossary

        Just in case any of you were unfamiliar with any of the terms or gear names that were used on this page I thought I would provide a brief, simple, glossary.

• Balaclava: Ever seen a movie with a guy in a ski mask robbing a bank? That's pretty much what a balaclava is. A "hat" that leaves nothing but your face or even your eyes exposed.



• Bivy Sack: Basically an uninsulated sleeping bag or a sleeping bag cover. It's basically used to provide some shelter from the elements when one is forced to "bivy", or spend an unplanned night out in the elements.



• Crampons: A pair of "spikes" that attach to the bottom of your boots to provide traction on icy trails. They can range from instep crampons that fit the instep of your boot and have from 4 to 6 points to full 12 point, fully rigid crampons that can be used for climbing vertical ice.



• Gaiters: Generally a piece of waterproof fabric basically in the shape of a tube that attaches to your boot and then covers the bottom of your pants to keep them dry, to keep snow out of your boots etc.



• Gear Head: An individual that places extreme importance on their gear. To recognize whether or not someone is afflicted with this ailment simply ask a few gear related questions. If they can tell you what each piece of their gear weighs, what it cost, and what piece of gear they're dreaming of getting to replace the piece they are now using. Then they are in need of some rehab!!



• Spruce Trap: A deadly beast that has been known to consume unsuspecting hikers in a single bite! Or actually it's a phenomena that occurs when the snow is so deep that it is concealing buried branches of a tree, generally a spruce tree. When the unsuspecting hiker treads on the unsupported snow he may sink waist, chest or even neck deep into the hole. Escaping from the monster's grasp can be quite a challenge especially if one does not have the assistance of fellow hikers!



• Snow Bridge: A natural bridge that occurs when enough snow and ice have "bridged" the rivers. If the river is of any size you need to exercise extreme caution when crossing these bridges as they can have areas that are not as solid as they appear. But if they are strong enough this is one thing that makes one segment of winter hiking easier than summer hiking!

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