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D'Amico WINDERS

WORK LIKE A DREAM!

 

Designed by: Joe D'Amico

Instructions by: Joe Brohan

 

At one of the recent ODOM regattas, one of the skippers, Joe D'Amico, Port Angeles, said he wanted to show us a neat way to adjust the jib and main sheets. He was right. This is the only way to go. It could even be modified to work on EC12s and other boats.

How many times have we struggled and fought with the various ways to adjust our sheets to the proper setting that we would like. Setting those booms and jib clubs were at times vexing to get them adjusted exactly where we wanted them. Well, that drill is now all a thing of the past. The winders are simple to assemble, all parts are readily available and anyone with just a modicum of hobbying skills, like me, would have no problem assembling these beauties. Beauties they are 'cause they eliminate a lot of frustration, blue air and quaking ground.
List of materials needed:

2 4-40 Allen head cap screws (see figure A)

2 4-40 nylon lock nuts                    "

2 5/16" washers                             "

2 1" two arm servo horns                 "

2 1/2" rubber washers                     "

4 1/8"x¾"x¾" ply pieces or 1/16"    "

2 nylon sheet exit guides (see figure D)

 

 

Figures A&D show  views of the winder parts. The 4-40 cap screws and lock nuts are available in sets of two thru Great Planes parts. Two arm servo horns may be a little more difficult to locate. The alternative is to get  four arm horns and cut two off with a Dremel. The 1/8" ply (or 1/16") ply is readily available at any hobby store. The rubber washers, metal washers and nylon exit guides can usually be obtained from any well stocked hardware store. See figure B showing the assembly.

The reason for the choice of the 4-40 size cap screw is that the hole in the servo horn is the correct size for the 4-40 screw. Lock nuts are needed so that there is no possibility of the loosening and falling off of the lock nut under the deck. The metal washer under the cap screw prevents the head of the screw from going into the recess at the top of the servo horn. The rubber washers function as a braking (mechanism)s. This helps to prevent the sail sheets from unwinding from the winder.

 

The only parts under the deck are the plywood pieces in which the lock nuts are set. Either incise the hex faces of the lock nut into one piece of the ply or drill a ¼" hole. The faces of the nut will just fit into that space. On the other piece drill a 3/16" hole. This will fit over the crown of the lock nut. With the lock nut placed in the plywood base spread some thick CA glue on the upper face of the ply and glue the other piece placing it over the crown of the nut. When the CA has set turn over the assembly so that the hex face of the nut faces up. Take some bicarbonate of soda, fill in the lock nut spaces and level it with the face of the lock nut and plywood with a razor blade. . Put a drop of CA glue on the bicarbonate of soda (acts as a kicker). It will harden almost immediately. Be careful not to get any CA glue onto the threads of the nut. Once it is set up rub the ply and base of the nut on some fine sand paper to make it smooth to fit onto the under side of the deck. See figure B. Assembly is completed and ready to install when the ply base is removed.

 

 

 

Once this is done with the lock nut firmly set in the ply,  then the assembly can be attached to the underside of the deck with the hex face of the nut and ply onto the underside of the deck. Drill two holes thru the deck where you want the winders. Drill holes just large enough for the 4-40 screws. Have the cap screw, washer, servo horn and rubber washer assembled. Put CA glue on the ply with the hex face, thread the 4-40 thru the hole, into the lock nut under the deck and tighten the 4-40 snugly until the CA glue sets. See figure C with the assembly attached to the deck.

Forward of both of the winders drill holes for the nylon sheet guides. They do not have to be glued if drilled to snug fit. Knot the sheet to the inside hole in the winder. See figure D. That's all there is to it. You will probably be spending more time rounding up the parts than you will making the assemblies.

Joe Brohan

 

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