Topping Lift Bridle

THE TOPPING LIFT BRIDLE

Getting the proper sail twist, at times, can be a thorny and vexing problem. This is especially so with boats that have roach sails; however, many boat skippers, with roach sails, circumvent this problem by putting tension on the back stay. This works fine in certain wind velocities, but not in the lower wind velocities. Unfortunately, in very light airs, this is when twist is needed. Putting more tension on the back stay will make changes in the main that are not wanted.

The leach of the roach sails interfere with the topping lift line. To overcome this problem there are a number of different types of rigs attached above the jib to place the topping lift beyond the leach of the sail. Some of the line attachments are solid sheets of triangular shaped aluminum or some are even triangular shapes of soldered wire. Another approach was brought to our attention by club member Craig Mackey of GHMYC. During his travels around the country, he sees many innovations of many things and this is one of them.

This topping lift attachment is a very simple rig composed of a bridle bar about 2-2½" long( length of bridle bar is dependent on the amount of roach on the jib), Spectra or Dacron line 80-100# test, a bead and a bridle ring. The bridle bar can be brass tubing or carbon fiber. However, if you use carbon fiber I must caution you to collar both ends of the rod with brass tubing. Ends of the carbon fiber will have to be lightly sanded in order to fit into the brass tubing. This will prevent the possible splitting of the carbon fiber when it is drilled. Be sure that all holes are deburred to minimize line fraying. The collars are set in place with CA.

If brass tubing is the bridle bar choice, to help prevent severe chafing of the lines thru the bridle bar, it is strongly recommended that the drilled holes in the brass tubing be fitted with smaller diameter tubing. Then the ends can be lightly peened. Again, be sure to deburr. When the bridle bar is completed, drill two holes in one end of the bar, about 3/32" apart and a single hole at the other end.

Assembly of the bridle is shown. Measurements will obviously vary depending on the forestay and halyard distances between the jib club and topping lift bridle.

	Attach Spectra or Dacron line 80-100# test to the upper ring of the forestay as it passes thru the luff of the jib. This will be the forestay extension. Thread the line thru a bead 1/8-3/16" outside diameter. This bead will rest on the jib forestay upper ring. The purpose of the bead is to facilitate free rotation of the bridle bar as it rotates.
	Thread the forestay extension line thru the forward hole on the bridle bar.
	Then attach this line to the bridle ring.
	Attach another line to this same bridle ring that will act as a continuation of the forestay extension to terminate at the mast crane.
	From the jib sail head attach the halyard, pass it thru the hole thru the bridle bar immediately to the rear of the foresaty hole and attach it to the bridle ring.
	At the bridle ring attach the topping lift, pass it thru the aft hole of the bridle bar, loop it up, forward of the line as it passes thru the bridle bar to the rear, and around the topping lift where it entered the top of the bridle bar and then string the topping lift the rest of the way to the aft of the jib club. Looping of the line helps to stabilize the topping lift. At the same time, this allows easy adjustment of the line to make the bridle bar relatively horizontal.

This is an easily constructed topping lift for roach sails. This whole set up can be easily done in 1-1½ hrs. depending on your hobbying skills. The part that would take the most time would be the fabrication of the bridle bar, especially so if carbon fiber is the choice for the bar.

Joe Brohan