Cirque References and Links
Thanks to the American Alpine Club,
many of these historical American Alpine Journal articles are now available online.
Click on the article title to download the pdf.
The Logan Mountains, Northwest Territories
by Arnold Wexler,
1956 American Alpine Journal - the classic article by the man who
named the place.
The Logan Mountains, 1960
by William J. Buckingham,
1961 American Alpine Journal - the prolific expedition that climbed 28 peaks
over a one month period.
The Southeast Face of Proboscis
by James P. McCarthy,
1964 American Alpine Journal - the historic first ascent of this wilderness big wall.
The Wall of Forgetfulness, Lotus Flower Tower, Logan Mountains
by Harthon H. Bill,
1969 American Alpine Journal - Lotus Flower Tower SE face first ascent.
A Logan Adventure
by Galen Rowell,
1974 American Alpine Journal - Galen Rowell's second trip into the Cirque.
The Great Canadian Knife - Logan Mountains
by Galen Rowell,
1993 American Alpine Journal - Galen Rowell's third trip into the Cirque.
by Jonathan Copp,
2002 American Alpine Journal - "Trundles from God and other tales of Speed and Freedom
in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Yukon Territory".
Other Printed References:
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
- out of print.
Used copies can be purchased but not cheaply.
Climbing #131 (Apr/May 1992). My original article.
The 1996 Canadian Alpine Journal (Volume 79) - published by the
Alpine Club of Canada.
This is basically a printed version of
my web guide,
Martin Roos' Trip Report.
(New Star Books):
"Being an Account of Some Inconclusive but Nonetheless Informative Attempts
to Reach the South Nahanni River by Foot and Bicycle",
by John Harris (includes trail notes by Vivien Lougheed).
This book contains information on hiking into the Cirque.
The Face : Six Great Climbing Adventures by Richard Else and Brian Hall:
Contains an account of free climbing the Proboscis (route 13a)
by Nancy Feagin and Barry Blanchard.
- Vampire Spires: see Climbing #153 (June 15-August 1, 1995)
and Climbing #187 (August 1, 1999), also search the
Climbing Magazine web site for more recent info.
The Vampire Spires are 15 miles northwest of the Cirque of the Unclimbables
and are not covered by this web guide.
- Major Carriers
- Air Charters/ Backcountry Access
This excellent lodge is accessible only by air.
It is 87 miles west of The Cirque.
Owners: Warren and Anita LaFave.
Kluane Airways Ltd.
, closely connected with the Inconnu Lodge.
Wolverine Air, based in Fort Simpson.
- River Outfitters
Last Update: 1/31/13