Lotus Flower Tower in a day
So you want to do the Lotus Flower Tower in a day?
Here are some hints that got us up it in 12.5 hours.
Note that pitch numbers correspond to George Bell's excellent
of the SE face route. We carried a small day pack with
food, rain gear, and water:
- Use 60 meter ropes.
- Push pitch (4) higher to get the next pitches
- Run Pitches (5) - (9) into three 60m pitches.
Basically go till you run out of rope as the
climbing is very easy.
- Push pitch (11) to the edge of the face in order
to be able to move pitch (12) higher. It's a more
comfy belay for (11) too!
- Push pitch (12) about 10 meters higher and setup
your own belay. This enables you to skip (13)
entirely and go straight to the anchors at (14)
if you followed step number 1.
- Run pitches (17) and (18) together on the LEFT
side of the face where the climbing is a bit
easier than the OW section of (18).
- Enjoy the extra daylight you have to do the rappel.
[Added 2/2000 GB: There is now a bolted rappel line right (NE) of
the chimneys on pitches 4-10. It leaves the NE end of
the bivy ledge and goes all the way to the top of pitch 3.
You can also rap from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 1.
Take note of rap anchors on the headwall as you go up.]
and Kurt Blair
August 24, 1997