Memorable Climbs

If the conquest of a great peak brings moments of exultation and bliss, which in the monotonous, materialistic existence of modern times nothing else can approach, it also presents great dangers. It is not the goal of grand alpinisme to face peril, but it is one of the tests one must undergo to deserve the joy of rising for an instant above the state of crawling grubs. - Lionel Terray, 1965


The Maroon Bells, from nearby Pyramid. Andy Moore in silhouette.


Some climbs are remembered for a lifetime. Generally these are ones where personal barriers were broken, or atrocious weather was overcome, or maybe was just a perfect day of climbing with a great partner. Here is a list of climbs that hold great memories for me. They are in chronological order. For a complete list of all trip reports on this site, which includes many more fun climbs, see the Trip Report Index.

Year Climb Description Photos Web Links
1975
(Age 14)
North Maroon Peak, Colorado (my second ascent 28 years later in 2003)   MP
1979 Mechanic's Route (first multi-pitch climb), Tahquitz, California   MP
1983 The complete North Ridge of Mt. Stuart (first long alpine technical climb), Washington   MP
1984 The Italian Cracks on the Grand Teton (one day ascent), Wyoming Teton4 NAC
1985 The NW (French) Ridge of Mt. Huntington (attempt), Alaska, published in Summit Magazine Alaska1-4 MP
1985 The West Buttress of South Howser Tower, Canada   NAC
1986 The East Buttress of Denali, with descent via South Buttress, Alaska (an attempt to put up a new route on Denali, but we ended up doing the 7th ascent or so of the East Buttress), originally written for Rock & Ice Magazine Alaska5-15  
1986 The complete NE Buttress of Mt. Slesse, Canada, published in Ascent 89   NAC
1987 The SW Face Direct on Alpamayo, Peru Peru4-7  
1987 The South Face of Caras III (first ascent), Peru Peru  
1988 The Lotus Flower Tower, Canada, published in Climbing #131 Cirque My web guide, NAC
1989 The Salathe Wall, Yosemite   NAC, Tuan
1991 The NW Ridge of Mt. Aspiring, New Zealand    
1991 Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route (roped solo), Utah   NAC, MP
1994 The Finger of Fate (regular) route on the Titan, Utah Desert4-5 NAC, MP
1994 D7 on the Diamond, Longs Peak, Colorado   MP
1995 Lightning Bolt Cracks, North Six Shooter Peak, Utah   MP
1996 Polar Circus, Canada   NAC
1996 The Direct South Buttress of Mt. Moran, Wyoming Tetons7 NAC
1996 The Nose, Yosemite   NAC, Tuan
1997 The East Ridge of Mt. Temple, Canada   NAC
1998 Scenic Cruise [includes topo], Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado   NAC, MP
1998 Liberty Ridge, Mt. Rainier, Washington   NAC
1999 Primrose Dihedrals, Moses Tower, Utah   NAC, MP
2000 Resolution Arete [includes topo and route info], Red Rocks, Nevada   MP
2001 Lizard Head, SW Colorado [account of the first ascent in 1920]   MP
2002 Shiprock, New Mexico   MP
2002 Completed all 249 climbs in Gerry Roach's Flatiron Guide [Flatiron Quinfecta (1997), Top Ten (2000)]   MP
2003 Japanese Route, Mt. Alberta, Canadian Rockies (also Assiniboine and Edith Cavell)   NAC
2005 Inti Watana, Red Rocks   MP

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George Bell (gibell@comcast.net)