Scenes from the Estrada Real
These pictures were taken during research for Glenn Alan Cheney's Journey
on the Estrada Real: Encounters in the Mountains of Brazil (Academy
Chicago, 2004, ISBN 0-89733-530-9).
This is Domingos. He lives under a large rock on a mountain between
Itambé do Mato Dentro and Morro do Pilar. As you might expect from
someone who lives under a rock, his mind isn't quite in tune with the rest
of us,. But he's very friendly and loves to talk. In fact, he won't stop
until you just walk away. To find him, follow the Estrada Real north out
of Itambé. Somewhere along its highest elevation, holler out "Seu
Domingos" until he holles back that you may come to visit. Take him
some food, OK?
This picture was taken in the kitchen of Dona Maia dos Santos Faria,
a retired midwife in Milho Verde. She has delivered over 500 babies, virtually
everyone born in that town.
This is Odete, a teacher in Córregos. She's a lot friendlier
than she looks in thie picture. She's a teacher who sometimes has to walk
her students home from seven kilometers away, through the rain in the dark
over a mountain.
This is Ildeu de Oliveira, of Senhora do Carmo. His family goes way
back in the history of this town. The pictures are of his relatives. Back
in the 1930s and 40s, he used to drive mule trains all the way down to the
border of ARgentina and Paraguay. Now he's pretty much stuck at home, tending
to a colostomy bag.
Diamantina has nice pavement. Also nice shadows, depending on who's
walking by.
This is the Igreja Metropolitana in Diamantina.
A church in Córregos. The Estrada Real passes through the center
of this town.
A bridge of the Rio Jequitinhonha outside of São Gonçalo
do Rio das Pedras. The Estrada Real crosses it.
The Estrada Real doesn't get a lot of traffic.
A lot, and in some places most of the traffic on the Estrada Real is
by hoof.
The Estrada Real coming into Três Barras.
Streets behind the Igreja Metropolitana in Diamantina. Be sure to visit
this city someday. for good reason, UNESCO has declared it a world heritage
city.
Morning in Dona Mirtila's inn in Conceção do Mato Dentro.
Dona Mirtila herself, a wonderful woman with an amazing life story that
includes the raising of 18 children, eight of them adopted, some of the
adopted nursed at her own breast. Dona Mirtila passed away shortly before
Journey on the Estrada Real was published.
Gourds used for storage.
Dona Mirtila's fogão a lenha wood stove.
Plate and faucet, at Dona Mirtila's inn.