White Pelican Migration

September 16, 2004

Heading south on the Illinois River, we were having a long, uneventful day on the water. Passing the hours knitting, reading, and talking on the phone, I was suddenly interrupted by Bob’s insistence that I “Look at the birds!” Expecting to see yet another Great Blue Heron (they’re wonderful, but they’re everywhere!), I saw the sky all around us thick with white. Literally thousands of wings, white with black undersides, were flapping their way south. Floating on the water along both shores were thick masses of white, birds not yet sufficiently alarmed by our presence to take to the air. To our stern, thousands in formation, to our port and starboard, formation confused by our boat and resting birds suddenly noticing that is was time to move, and finally formation reforming off our bow. White, flapping, confusion, beauty, drama… and us in the middle of it all!!!

Digital cameras, binoculars, and video cameras were hurriedly sought, as we attempted to capture this experience that had not yet fully registered in our minds. Seagulls? Storks? Pelicans? But pelicans are brown, clumsy, and ugly. These amazing creatures, white as snow and flying with such grace, were too lovely to be pelicans.

We later confirmed at the marina that we had witnessed the annual white pelican migration. Every year they pass through Peoria on their way to the warmth of the South. What a privilege!

New Friends

September 17, 2004

As we planned this trip, I wondered if Bob and I would feel isolated, being so far away from friends and family. I knew we would rely heavily on the cell phone and email, but would we miss having real live people to talk to? Would be bored with “just the two of us” day after day? Well, it turns out there was no cause for concern. Ever since Labor Day, we’ve been meeting more Looper boats each day. (By Loopers, I mean people who are currently completing at least one portion of the Great Loop trip.) At this point, if there are other boaters at the marinas we’re visiting, you can pretty well guess they’re doing the Loop.

Today, we completed about a 100 mile stretch on the Illinois River, where there were no marinas at which to stop for the last 60 miles. When we finally arrived at Mel’s Riverfront Restaurant and Marina in Hardin, IL there were 7 other Looper boats there, and we had a very enjoyable time together, getting acquainted and eating a great dinner at Mel’s. We’re really enjoying the company of other folks with whom we have so much in common, and we love to hear how they decided to do the trip, where else they’ve cruised, funny experiences they’ve had, and stops they’d recommend. Just another reason to love “doing the Loop!”

Hoppie’s Marina

September 21, 2004

On the Mississippi River in Kimmswick, Missouri, there’s a marina that I hope I never forget. It’s owned and managed by Hoppie Hopkins, his wife Fern, and several generations of other family members. Hoppie and Fern are a wonderful couple who take care of the transient boaters as if they were family. Hoppie grew up working at the marina, then owned by his father, so his knowledge of the wisdom and lore of the area is excellent.

The dock itself is made up of about six 1940’s barges, joined end to end by cables, chains, and trailer hitches all welded together. Pieces of carpet are nailed to the sides and top of the barges, providing bumpers as well as protecting boaters from stepping into the cracks. On the dock are various rickety shacks that serve as the office, vending machine area, storage shed, and a gathering place for boaters. This area is set up almost like a living room, with 50’s vintage couches, Naugahyde chairs, and a large table in the middle, strewn with full ashtrays, boating magazines and charts, and a tin of Hostess Twinkies. The shore side of the dock is home to some smaller local boats as well as a few derelict looking houseboats, while the transient boaters are on the outside of the dock. There’s a gas pump and a diesel pump that looks like a leftover from the 1940’s.

An iron gangplank connects the barges to shore. Draped along its sides is an odd collection of pipes, cables, and hoses, many no longer in use. On shore are houses and trailers where Hoppie and his family live, along with several wooden boats in desperate need of repair. In front of one house is a white van with the keys in it, which Hoppie and Fern are happy to loan to boaters who need to go to town for shopping or laundry.

Back on the dock, on a typical afternoon, you’ll see a group of boaters, sitting in the “living room” area of the dock. Hoppie’s is the last marina on the Mississippi before a 200 mile stretch with no marinas, many barges, lots of floating debris, and limited anchorages. Hoppie and Fern are with the boaters, informing their guests of all needed information for their safety and comfort on the river. Hoppie, a slightly built man probably about 65, tells us of the latest weather conditions, water levels on the rivers, advice about safe anchorages, and warnings of possible dangers. He intersperses his facts with anecdotes gained from a lifetime on the river, and his Missouri accent and unique grammar combine with his soothing voice, to make for excellent entertainment. Meanwhile, Fern, suntanned and weather beaten but lovely, with twinkling blue eyes and a wonderful laugh, tag-teams with Hoppie, adding admonitions, instructions, and no-nonsense warnings. Herself a wealth of knowledge, she also has a great repertoire of stories about boaters who’ve visited in the past. My favorite was the one about the wife who was sick and tired of boating and ready to jump ship. Fern decided she “needed to meet Neiman Marcus.” When Fern brought her back to the marina after a day at the mall, she was a much happier person and the proud owner of a full length fur coat! We all laughed at that one, but Fern’s laugh was the loudest of all!

While at Hoppie’s, I ate the chicken and dumplings at the Blue Owl, and Fern was right, I’m glad I did. We charted our course for the next four days based on their excellent guidance, and we’re now confidently heading south on the Mississippi. Hoppie and Fern provided us with wonderful hospitality and care while we were at their Mississippi River home, and we’re very glad to have known them.

We Made It!

September 25, 2004

We made it to the Green Turtle Marina in Grand Rivers, Kentucky yesterday. It was a long 4 days on the rivers; we completed the Mississippi and headed east on the Ohio and south on the Cumberland, then through the Barkley Lock and Dam into Lake Barkley. Bob did an admirable job of piloting Grace through floating debris and around barges and finding safe anchorages for us each night. We were traveling with our new friends Charlie and Betty aboard Charbett, and their company and moral support made what could have been a difficult trip a pleasant time.

At Green Turtle, we met up with many other Loopers who we had met before, as well as many new ones. There must be about a dozen Looper boats here, and we got together for drinks and munchies last night, which was a lot of fun. The boat Yum Yum was there celebrating that they have just completed the Loop, and we toasted their success.

We’re borrowing the marina van this afternoon with two other couples, and we’re going to venture into Paducah, which is about 30 min. from here. We’re headed for the barbecue festival– yum!

Fun Time in Paducah, Kentucky

September 25, 2004

It was a big time on the town for us tonight! We took the Green Turtle van into the big town of Paducah, along with
Charlie and Betty from Charbett and Pat and Clyde from Mamacita. You can’t imagine how exciting it was to shop at a Super Wal Mart! It’s been a long time since we’ve been around anything but little ma and pa markets. We were able to get all our groceries for the next week as well as all kinds of odds and ends that we’ve been needing for the boat.

After shopping, we went to the barbecue festival that’s going on in town this weekend. We guessed that every citizen of Paducah was there, and people were having a ball. They had at least 80 different vendors, including restaurants, churches, and civic groups, selling barbecue of every kind you could think of. We parked the van several blocks away from the festival, and the delicious aroma hit us as soon as we got out of the car. We feasted on succulent ribs from Smokey Joe’s, which were melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Topped off with pecan pie and ice cream, we were happy campers. Our new friends are lots of fun, and it was a fun time we don’t want to forget!

The Lovely Tennessee River

September 28, 2004

We’ve been traveling south on the Tennessee River for the past three days. However, if you were here, you would never know it was a river. In 1933, this area was economically destitute, and President Roosevelt created the Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA), which promised economic development and electric power to the area, mainly by the building of dams. The result was the generation of a tremendous amount of hydroelectric power, the prevention of disastrous floods, and the creation of a navigation channel for the entire 652 foot length of the Tennessee River. As a result of damming the river in various locations, Kentucky Lake was created, which has a shoreline of 2380 miles, longer than the entire west coast of the United States, and with a water surface of more than a thousand square miles.

What a wonderful place this is to cruise! There are islands everywhere, wonderful little bays and inlets, and creeks feeding into the river. To make it even better, we’ve had just one gorgeous day after another, with amazing sunsets each night. I had a delightful swim off the stern of Grace in a quiet anchorage as the sun was setting to my west and the almost full moon was rising to the east. We’ve seen thousands of Great Blue Heron, and yesterday we were delighted to follow a flock of bluebirds as we took a walk around the marina.

Thank you, FDR, for making such a wonderful area in which for us to cruise!