The Great Gulf Crossing

November 6, 2004

 

          You may be wondering why you haven’t heard from us in a while. We’ve had a traumatic experience, and I needed time to process and get things in perspective!!!

 Ever since early October, when we attended the Looper Rendezvous, we have been planning for, praying about, and (I’ll admit it…) worrying about the Gulf crossing that we knew lay ahead.  The “experts” at the Rendezvous did their best to convince us that the safest and smartest way to get from the Panhandle of Florida to the west coast was to cut a diagonal path across the Gulf of 170 miles or more, rather than to cruise along the shoreline over the course of several days, where shallow water could cause problems.  We listened to people’s tales along the way: everything from “the experience of a lifetime” with dolphins frolicking in a moonlit wake, to a “nightmare” where they were one step away from shipwreck.  We had been told by several people that Buddy, who works at the Moorings Marina in Carrabelle, was the one to talk to about the best route, based on weather, time of year, and type of boat we’re on. 

          When we arrived in Carrabelle on October 30th, Buddy didn’t hesitate to urge us to do the crossing and to leave at the crack of dawn the next day.  Apparently, he believed that there was only a day or two left in the window of favorable winds and calm seas.  By leaving at dawn, we were allowing 24 hours for the 200 mile crossing to Bradenton, and we are able to do about 9 miles per hour in the best conditions.

          After charting our course with the captains and first mates of Vision and Joy C (see photo gallery), we were confident and excited about our big adventure.   When we left on the morning of Oct 31st, the idea of doing this trip on Halloween night was a little weird to me, but I’m not superstitious…

          It was a wonderful morning, with the sun quickly burning off the fog and giving way to a gorgeous 80 degree day, with almost no wind. All day, we enjoyed the cruise and congratulated ourselves on our wise choice and careful planning.   The sunset was lovely, and by 8:30, the almost full moon rose in the east.  Just about every night, we’ve noticed that daytime breezes calm down at night, but that night the breeze started to pick up.  As I lay on the bow and watched the stars, I saw a shooting star and decided to wait for another.  Before another one came along, however, it was getting to rough  lying down on the bow.  Soon, it was getting downright uncomfortable.

          “What’s with the wind?” we wondered.  By 11:00 PM, Grace was bucking and rolling in 5 foot seas, and we were tired and nervous.  We talked to the other boats on the radio and determined that we couldn’t go on. At this point, we were about 30 miles from shore; fortunately we were not still 50 miles out, as we had been earlier. The water was still way too deep to anchor, and we traveled another hour to get a place where it was only 16 feet.  En route, there were fish traps everywhere, and I attempted to hold the searchlight for Bob while he steered around them.  Tangling a trap in our prop would have been a disaster in those seas, but standing up and holding the light in those conditions was almost impossible for me.

          Fortunately, our Delta fast set anchor held beautifully, but that didn’t keep Grace from bucking and creaking and generally complaining about the rough treatment she was getting.  Meanwhile, I had set myself down on the back deck, tried to stare at the horizon in the dark, took some Bonine, and prayed to Jesus to calm the seas.  He didn’t choose to calm the seas, but he did calm my mind, and I was soon asleep on the couch.  I woke up 4 or 5 times, when I caught myself from falling out of bed but was able to go right back to sleep.  I was able to sleep because I knew Bob was a wise captain and had things under control. Meanwhile, he never slept all night, worrying about whether the anchor would hold and if the boat would be damaged.

          When I woke up at dawn, Bob told me that one of the other boats, Vision, had left at 3:30 AM because their anchor line shredded and broke, so they lost their anchor, chain, and line. We were unable to contact them by radio and set out with Joy C. The seas were still high, but things were a lot less frightening in the light of day. Anyhow, the story had a happy ending.  We got off the Gulf by early afternoon and traveled all afternoon up the calm water of the ICW, arriving in Bradenton just at sunset.

          An afterthought:   I had purchased a pumpkin a few days before Halloween and had imagined carving it and lighting it on Halloween night as we crossed the moonlit Gulf, with dolphins frolicking in our wake.  What ever happened to the pumpkin?  When the seas were the roughest, it was rolling everywhere and bumping into things.  Our poor pumpkin was tossed in the Gulf by Captain Bob!

          Since we arrived in Bradenton, life has been wonderfully uneventful. We’ve talked to Vision and Joy C and compared war stories (which first mate cried the most??  A tough question!)  We’re in a great marina, with electric hookup and cable TV.  We’ve rented a car, and every convenience of civilization is at our disposal.  Bob bought me a beautiful bouquet of flowers, congratulating me on my Gulf crossing, and I think I’d call myself a veteran sailor now.  Crossing the Gulf???  Hey, it was easy!!!

 

 

Taking a Vacation from the Vacation

November 9, 2004

 

          This has been just what I needed!  Although cruising has been a lot of fun, it feels really good to stay in one place for a while, especially with the luxury of our own wheels!  We LOVE the Twin Dolphins Marina; the people are very nice (especially Charlie the dock master), and the facilities are excellent.  The heated pool and wonderful hot tub are surrounded by palm trees and a lovely harbor, the restaurant is outstanding, and the town of Bradenton is lively and lots of fun.  Since we’ve been here, we’ve been to the Farmers’ Market on Saturday morning and the Taste of Bradenton on Saturday and Sunday.  We’ve hung out with Jenny and Mike on Vision and shared “war stories” about our Gulf crossing, and we’ve spent a wonderful evening with Carol Davis and her friend Phil, whom we liked very much.  We’ve attended an excellent church, the Bradenton Christian Reformed Church, where we met a really nice couple, Dave and Betty, who live on Anna Maria Island.  We’ve seen them a couple of times since, and Dave is doing his best to convince us that now is the time to buy a condo in this area and make the move to the Sunshine State.  When I talk to people at home an about the snow and freezing temperatures, it’s not hard to convince me that he’s right.  Still, I’m missing the family and our friends in Connecticut; maybe we could get EVERYONE to move to Florida!!! Think about it!

 

Nathan has Arrived!

November 14, 2004

 

          What better way to wind up our cruising adventure than with a visit from our pride and joy, our grandson Nathan aged 6 months, and his mommy and daddy, Karen and Mike? He has been melting our hearts with his infectious smile, his adorable laugh, and his busy little hands, grabbing and shaking and pounding on anything he can find. Hands, fingers, rattles, pacifiers, car keys, and whatever else that’s in reach go directly into his mouth, and cuddles and kisses from Nana and Grandpa have been returned by slobbery, wonderful baby kisses. He’s been to the beach for the first time, but he’s not yet convinced that it’s his favorite place.  He’s been on a boat ride, where he thought the wind in his face and hair was very cool, and he’s been swimming in the pool, where he’s had a blast, riding around in his baby boat and looking adorable.  He’s met his great Aunt Carol and listened to live music at the Twin Dolphins Grill, where he enjoyed casual dockside dining and bouncing on his daddy’s shoulders.

            We learned that a 40 foot boat is just big enough for a baby and occasional company, provided they don’t have any luggage. One small person sure needs a lot of stuff, and Karen and Mike are excellent parents, anticipating and meeting Nathan’s every need.  He’s a happy and adorable little guy and a joy to both of us.  They all left this morning, and we expect that they may be needing a vacation from their vacation by the time they get home!!!  We miss you already, Karen, Mike, and Nathan.  Thank you for coming!

 

Back Home in Connecticut

November 20, 2004

 

          The first chapter in our Great Loop adventure has abruptly closed, and we are at home and busy with an entirely different life.  Grace is in dry storage at the All American Boat Storage yard in Cape Haze, FL, and we flew home on November 18th.   We’ve experienced some culture shock, especially when we found a huge new upscale mall that was built just a mile from our house while we were away.  I wandered through the aisles of the new supermarket, which is proud to be “bringing the foods of the world to you,” and I thought of the challenge we faced finding grocery stores with a reasonable selection and level of cleanliness while traveling the Loop.  It reminded me that even the amount of inconvenience that we experienced on our trip was luxury in contrast to how most of the rest of the world lives.  The excess of the American culture is overwhelming.  I read the SkyMall magazine on the flight home and realized that there was not one item in there that anyone actually NEEDS.  Since I’ve been home, I’ve been cleaning out overcrowded drawers and cabinets, as I have realized that in many ways, less is more.  Why have 20 different utensils that all perform the same function?  Why have a huge closet full of clothes that you never wear?  Why have such a large house that you don’t always even know where your partner is?    Anyhow, my mind has been mulling over these questions as I’ve been attempting to adjust to a pretty radical transition in lifestyle.  I have yet to get a good night’s sleep; my bed just doesn’t rock like it should!

          Of course, the great part about being home is the people.  Funny, that’s also the great part about doing the Loop!  We’ve been catching up with family, starting with my dad’s delightful smile as he greeted us at the airport.  Flowers, food, and a fruitbasket from friends at our church awaited us when we arrived home, and the house was in excellent condition, thanks to Yvette and Craig.   We’ve had walks with friends and dinner with neighbors and lots of phone calls catching up with  our family, whom we’ve missed very much.  

          We are so blessed to have had this wonderful adventure and even more blessed to have a wonderful place and wonderful people to come home to.  We will be spending the next two months in a whirlwind of holiday festivities and visiting many of you, and God willing, we will resume the Loop at the end of January.  As Thanksgiving approaches, we count you among our greatest blessings and wish you all a wonderful holiday season.

                                                          Love to all,

                                                          Christine and Bob