This is not my guide. It was such a good write up I just had to save it for future use. I came across it before I set out to make this web site so I lost the name of the author and also his home page. SORRY DUDE. I have since heard that the site was taken down. I am glad I saved it.

ATTENTION: This guide is written for the ‘METAL’ gas tank cars…not the 1999+ ‘PLASTIC’ gas tank cars. The install for the plastic tank cars is similar but uses an LS1 racetronix pump kit. (high pressure) Also different is the location of the pump in the tank. I originally cut the access hole in the trunk as per this guide but the pump on my 2001 is actually located further south. Here is a pic of my 2001. The access whole is so big because once I realized the pump was in a different place I had to keep making the whole bigger. ~G

Racetronix F-LT1 Fuel Pump Install

After installing my NX Wet Kit and over 100,000 miles on the car I decided to up-grade my fuel system. I did quit a bit of searching and decided to go with a F-LT1 fuel pump from Racetronix. A lot of my decision to go with the Racetronix pump was the fact that it’s pretty much a direct replacement for the stock pump and Jack, the owner of Racetronix, regularly posts on camaroz28.com, and was very helpful. The Racetronix kit uses a Walbro pump with some modifications to allow you to keep the bowl/bucket, witch I wanted to do to cut down on fuel pump noise. It’s a really nice piece and you won’t be disappointed if you decide to go this route. Before you start the install be sure to have the car in a well ventilated area because you will be working with the fuel system. Also keep in mind no open flames, that means smoking too. Now on to the install .

There are a few different trains of thought on how to put a fuel pump in a F-Body car. Some say drop the tank, which means the tank, muffler, rear end and a few other things. I decided to go the access panel route. So this install will cover the install of the Racetronix F-LT1 Fuel Pump using the access panel method. It was allot easier and the car didn't have to stay up on jack stands all night. The first picture on this page show how to make the cuts to remove the panel. All measurements are taken from the ribs in the hatch area with the exception of the top one, which was taken from where the hatch area starts to dip down toward the back seat area.

The first step is to disconnect the battery. It's better to be safe than sorry. It's also a good ideal to relieve the fuel pressure. You can do this by taking off the gas cap. Take out the rear hatch cover and the back sail panels. You will need top pull your carpet back as well to get access to the hatch floor panel. Now measure out where you will make the cuts. This is important as you later, I had to go back in and re-cut a second time. I taped off the cutting area to help keep my cuts straight.

I used a DREMEL tool with Heavy Duty Cut-Off Wheels to make the cuts. Notice I said wheels, because I went through quite a few make the cuts. When making the cuts there will be ALLOT of sparks. So if this makes you uneasy you may want to go the route of dropping the tank. If you are going to cut be sure to wear eye protection! I also used my Mechanix Wear gloves. These two pictures show after the hole has been cut.

After you get the hole cut It's time to start the pump removal. You'll need to remove the five nuts that hold the fuel pump retaining ring down. Be sure to put them in a safe place so you don't loose them.

Now you need to disconnect the fuel lines. There are four lines that run to the pump as you can see in the picture. The feed and return lines have the squeeze connectors on them and the vapor lines have rubber connectors. I disconnected the vapors lines first and then worked on the feed and return lines. You should be able to get your fingers in to squeeze the disconnects. It's best to work one at a time. If you can't get your fingers in try to depress them with a screw driver. You'll hear the connectors click when the release. The just pull and the should come free. Once you've got all the line disconnected, pull the pump assembly up and forward (you may have to pull a little on the longer line to get it out of the hole. Once all the lines are out of the hole slowly rotate the assembly clock wise till the lines are pointing toward the front of the car. Now pull up and tilt the assembly toward the drivers side of the car so it will come out of the hole. BE VERY CARFUL when pulling the pump assembly out so you don’t mess anything up. You will be able to tell which way you need to bring it out when you see it.

Now to get to work on the pump. You can see the whole pump assmbley it the picture above. The first thing to do with the pump is to remove the strainer. You can just use a screw driver to pop it off the bottom of the bucket.

Now disconnect the wiring harness from the pump. It's the gray and black wires that run to the top of the pump as you can see in the picture.

Now pop the locking tabs that hold the pump bucket to the frame.

Now you'll need to prey the bottom of the bucket. Be careful not to break it. Once you get the bottom of the bucket off you can pull out the stock pump. There is another squeeze clip that holds the fuel line you'll need to release. Place the pump some place safe because it will still be full of fuel.

Remove the black zip tie around the foam gasket at the top of the new Racetroix pump. Be sure to keep the paper clip because you'll be using it later. You can see the old and new pumps side buy side in the above pictures. You'll need to remove the locking clip from the top of the fuel line from the old pump. Use a knife or razor blade to make a slit in the hose so you can pull the connector off. Now push it into the top of the hose on the new pump and tighten down the clamp. Don't over tighten, but be sure it holds.

Now to the bucket. Mine needed some modifying so the new pump would sit straight up in the bucket. As you can see from the picture there are ribs, the bottom two need to be removed. I used a pair of heavy wire snips to make fast work of them. Make sure the o-ring on the bottom of the new pump is seated in its groove and lubricated well with the silicon grease that come in the kit. Don’t worry about excess grease as it will dissolve quickly and dissipate. Insert the new pump into the bucket making sure the o-ring is firmly seated in the bottom.

Now on to the wiring. Refer to both the picture above for the next steps. If you look at the picture on the left you will see an orange connector lock. Go ahead and pull it so you can remove the wiring harness from the assembly lid. Now if you look at the wiring plug you will see a gray clip in the center of the plug. It will need to come out as well. Now take your paper clip that you took off the Racetronix pump. Take the paper clip and insert it into the edge cannel of the gray wire to release it's locking tang and simply pull out the old wire. Now insert the white wire from the new harness back into the empty hole. Do the same with the black wire. Insert the new black wire and put the gray clip back in. The black wire has two legs to it. The second goes to the spade connector near the level sender. Inspect the mating connector's male pins for corrosion. If they are black or corroded you can gently clean them with steel wool or 400-600 grit sand paper. Do not over do it as these pins are plated. Plug the harness back up and put the orange locking clip back in.

Back to the bucket. Run a bead of the supplied glue around the lid of the bucket. Don't use to much, just enough to coat the lip evenly all the way around. Try not to get the glue on your hands or eyes because it VERY dangerous. Go ahead and put the bottom of the bucket back on. Use some heavy-duty tape or wire ties to hold the bucket closed while the glue sets. It's best to leave the glue set overnight to ensure a good bond. The minimum set time for the glue is three hours at room temperature. Once the glue sets put the bucket back on the frame, connect the wire harness, and plug the fuel line back up. Put some of the silicon grease on the bottom of the bucket where the new strainer will go. Be sure not to put any holes in it when your pushing it on.

Now it's all ready to go back in the tank. Put it back in the same way it came out. Be careful, cause you may have to wiggle it around a little bit to get it to sit back in the tank. Once you've got it sit back in the tank hook your lines back up (give them a little tug to make sure they are all hook back up good), and put your five nuts back on.

Nows a good time to check and make sure the pump is working. Connect your battery back up, turn the key to the run position, NOT ON, just run and listen for the pump to cycle. If you hear it go ahead and start the car. If the car starts up go back and check for leaks. If you don't hear the pump cycle or the car won't start I guess you'll have to pull the pump back out to see what went wrong.

I decided to paint the cut to avoid rust later down the road.

The last thing to do is make a panel to cover the hole. This will eliminate fumes and noise and keep weather out of the car. I used a piece of sheet metal one of my Bros hocked me up with. I put some weather strip on the back side to keep out anything that may get in, and used some small sheet metal screw to hold it in place.

Well that's it. Pretty easy all in all. Now I'm ready to run that 100 shot without having to worry about pump failure. GOOD LUCK and be careful!