MCAANDA ADDENDUM

First read the mcaanda instructions fully and then read this addendum. The mcaanda instructions tell you ALMOST everything you need to know, however, some very important topics are not covered in that text, for example, there is no reference to ‘the third mounting bracket’ at all and some of the steps in the mcaanda instructions are wrong or do not include modifications in order to utilize such things as the John_D power wrap, nor does it tell you which ‘small’ spacers go ‘where’ as concerns mounting the RKSport tensioner bracket. Keep both sets of instructions handy while you install the Powerdyne for the first time.

STEP 4:

You DO NOT need to modify/cut the nipple bolt or its plastic cover (nor remove it) if you are going to use the suggested John D Power Wrap.

STEP 5:

The first picture in the mcaanda instructions is correct…the sender adapter should turn the sender down and towards the drivers side…the footnote is wrong.

The third mounting bracket:

This is missing from the mcaanda instructions. The kits should come with an ‘S’ bracket that has a hole on one end and a ‘welded on’ threaded nut on the other. The end with the hole attaches under/near the two heater core water inlet/outlet ports on the engine block. Use that stock bolt to attach the bracket. The threaded end of the bracket uses a short bolt that comes with the kit and it secures the S bracket to the main blower mounting plate. Below are some pics of a custom ‘third mounting bracket’ installed on my Powerdyne. (I had to make it because of course the person I bought the kit from lost it.) I am also including some pics of how and where it attaches to the block by using the stock bolt that is used on the heater core inlet assembly. Remove that bolt and use it to attach your “S” bracket.

A custom ‘third bracket’ in use:

Don’t skip the third mounting bracket. If you do not have one you can make one. Go HERE to learn how.

Step 11 Tensioner Pulley Bracket mounting spacers:

Neither the RKSport install guide nor the mcaanda mention the tensioner bracket spacers. The bolt locations for the bracket are correct. The smaller spacer goes between the Alternator Bolt hole and the bracket…the slightly longer spacer (about 20mm) goes between the water pump base bolthole and the tensioner bracket. (My 95-97 kit (adapted to fit my 2001 car) came with a 30 mm spacer which had to be cut down to aproximately 20mm…perhaps different year engines have different thickness water pump base.)

Step 12 Serpentine Belt Routing:

Use the John_D Power Wrap instead. Trust us. Do not skip the John_D Wrap. If you do then you just spent $4000 for a 2 psi blower because that is all you are going to get out of the stock RKSport kit with its inherent ‘belt slippage’ problem.

Step 14 Drive Belt Tightening:

As well as the described ‘hammer’ method you can also use a large C clamp. Place the clamp over the tensioner pulley and the upper right blower mounting bolt…tighten C clamp while holding the clamp in place. (The clamp is gripping two round surfaces so it wants to wiggle off…just keep a hold of it.

Regardless of how you tighten the RKSport tensioner pulley be prepared to check and retighten the belt several times for about the first week or two. Normally our cars use a ‘floating’ (spring) tensioner that is self-adjusting. With the new tensioner bracket and the extra tension needed to run the super charger the belt will stretch a bit at first. After about a week the belt should stop stretching. A good way to check tension is to grab the belt between the Alternator and the Power steering pump and turn it sideways. You should just barely be able to turn the belt sideways. (90 degrees up and down) If you twist the belt further than straight up and down with ease then the belt is considered ‘loose.’

NOTE: Some people report that their AC compressor chirps and makes noises when the AC is turned on and the car is at idle after installing their Powerdyne. My car does this a bit. If it gets bad (or embarrassing) I just turn off the AC while I am at a stoplight. It does not mean that your AC compressor has suddenly gone bad just because you installed the Powerdyne the day before.

Step 15: Throttle Body PCV Bypass mod:

Mcaanda describes taping and plugging the ‘manifold’ side of the PCV port. You can instead tap and plug the back of the TB if you like. This reduces the chance of metal shavings in the manifold as you already will have the TB off the car and it is easier to clean out the TB after performing the PCV plug mod that it is to clean and prevent metal shavings from getting in the intake manifold.

Protect your Oil Filter: Ok, just in case and also a good idea during the actual installation of the blower unit…get some light duty steel plating. Use something that is strong…1mm thick or so and roll it to match the outer diameter of the oil filter. Use silicone to attach it to the outside of oil filter right below where the main blower mounting plate is hovering ever so close. I used a piece of mild steel cut to about 2” wide x 3” long. Now, while installing that ‘sorta heavy’ and cumbersome blower unit…and navigating those pesky AC hose lines you will not bang up your filter and if your mounting bolts are a little bent like mine you have a sturdy shield against impending engine DOOM should the blower mounting plate ever start riding on the oil filter.

General:

Not all RKSport/Powerdyne v6 F body kits are the same. Do not take the mcaanda instructions for granted, especially concerning the TRC-1 timing retard module. Your vehicle may be newer and require the updated timing retard unit that now ships with the 99+ kits. It is a great guide however and is very useful to say the least. Great Job Dude! Thanks!