ACCESSING BACK OF FUSE PANEL
Running electrical
accessories to the fuse panel is an old trick.
We have it pretty easy in being able to access the back of the fuse
panel for nice clean and secure connections to ‘always on’ power, ‘run – accessories’
power and even light dimmer controlled power.
These connections are also hidden unless the dash and or fuse panel is
physically removed so it can be a great place to make security device
connections as well as power for gauges, electronics, kill switches, etc..
I first
learned how to do this from Brent Frankers awesome
v8 F Body website. He has a bunch
of pages detailing basic automotive wiring as well as advanced and specific
pages dealing with such things as alarm installs on F Bodies. I highly recommend his pages.
If you
are still here then lets get to it.
Disconnect your battery ground before pulling out the fuse panel. We don’t want any accidents. You can hook the battery back up after the fuse panel is pulled out to make any tests a with voltmeter or conductivity tester.
You will need a 9/32 socket and a Phillips screwdriver to remove the knee panels and the fuse block. You should also have a 12-volt conductivity tester for simple testing of ‘hot’ connections to find either ‘always on’, ‘run’ (ignition in run position) or switched power such as head light switch. If you are going to dig into the electrical system of your nice firebird or camaro then I will assume you know how to use a crimp tool and fittings and also maybe how to solder electrical connections. If not…you really should visit such websites as http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/Guides.htm
Something you may have overlooked or not know about is a very handy electrical crimp connector know as a quick-splice. These babies right here…
Use the blue quick splice when you want to make a connection to a wire that is already in place and you don’t want to cut it and it is also VERY useful in cramped working areas. They come in range of sizes dependant on gauge needed. Oohh I’m being real technical here. Try and stay with me. J
Remove the fuse panel cover and also the driver’s side kneeboards for running wires. Use the 9/32 socket on the single bolt at the bottom of the fuse panel. You can now wiggle the fuse panel out like this…
This is a 2001. As the text in the above picture shows there is an open connection point for +12 volt ACC. (It is hot when the key is in the run position) I found this by testing with a conductivity tester and turning the ignition on and off. BE VERY CAREFULL when testing the fuse panel connections. I don’t think you want to cross any HOT connections. I ground the conductivity tester to the same chassis ground I plan on using for gauges and accessories, etc..
The next picture shows a 14 gauge red wire crimped and soldered into that open RUN connection that will be used to power two electric gauges. (A/F and F/P) I used needle nose pliers to crimp the factory connector. I then used just a bit of solder. You can also see a blue quick-splice in the next pic. That is a wire that comes off the headlight fuse. The quick-splice was great for getting back there and it is the power source for the light bulb in the mechanical boost gauge. I found the head light connection by, um, turning the headlights on and off and testing with the conductivity tester. Yea, baby!
(I hate my camera. It cost some bucks a few years ago…getting
time for a better one I think)
Well, that’s it for my covering of the fuse panel. Like I said…this has been covered much better by others already so this page is just the basics. You can take it from here or check out my recommended links such as the Brent Franker site for much more in-depth F Body wiring and automotive wiring in general.