Compiled by

Don Myers, PhD and Mary Russick Myers

Consulting Rosarians, American Rose Society

Growing beautiful roses can be learned easily. This booklet provides the basics and addresses a number of common questions.

Interest in gardening and roses is at an all-time high. The rose, our national flower, is grown throughout the USA. Although roses have a reputation for being difficult to grow, the amount of care they require depends on the varieties you select, your climate, and the amount of effort you want to put into it. If you’re just beginning, start with a few plants to learn the basics and expand from there. This is the best way to determine your level of interest. The first rule of rose growing is: Select the right varieties, buy good plants and plant only as many roses as you can take care of.

When you select roses, you get what you pay for. Excellent plants may be obtained from a nursery or by mail. Always choose roses from a reputable source. Purchase fresh plants that have been well taken care from a local Lowe’s nursery, for example. Jackson & Perkins is the largest grower of retail rose plants in the world and supplies Lowe’s with some of its best roses. Each year J&P offers a number of new as well as still popular varieties in its mail order catalog. We have successfully grown J&P roses for over 40 years!

By following a few easy steps you can grow excellent roses that will give you many years of bloom. Roses generally perform best in a well-drained location (where water does not stand for long after a rain) with at least 5 to 6 hours of full sun daily and little root competition from trees. In warm/hot climates, afternoon shade is beneficial. If the site/bed does not have good drainage, a raised bed (about a foot above the ground and supported on its sides) can compensate. Roses are versatile. Plant roses in your landscape, alone in their own beds, or integrate them with other perennials in your garden. Roses are also very adaptable in the landscape and can tolerate many different types of soil.

Roses can be purchased as bare-rooted or as potted plants (in soil). You can be successful with either one. Bare-rooted plants are sold without soil. These can be ordered by mail from late fall to early spring. Don’t hesitate to try bare-rooted roses. After a long winter, its fun to get a box of ready-to-plant roses in the spring! Roses also may be purchased in the spring from local garden suppliers such as Lowe’s. You’ll find them packed in plastic sleeves or cardboard "plantable" pots. The roots of these roses are growing in a potting mix. In either case, plant these roses in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked for best results. Bare-rooted, mail order roses should be soaked in water for at least 24 hours before planting. For even better results, add a vitamin B-1 product as directed to help establish roots. Potted roses are available at nurseries starting in late spring and are grown in small pots containing commercial soil mixtures. Some mail order companies also ship potted roses. These can be planted successfully at almost any time the soil can be worked, even in midsummer, provided that the soil ball is kept intact during planting.

Yes, you need good roots for the best roses. In general, the rose selections made by your nursery are based on how well they will perform in your specific location. The rose plant comes to the consumer either on its own roots or as a budded plant on what is called a rootstock. This will depend to some extent on the source of the plant, the type of rose, and the climate of the region. Budded plants are produced on various rootstocks. This means that the rose you are buying may have a root system of a rose variety unlike the rose you are buying. (If the top of the plant is killed for any reason, the rootstock will often start growing and produce its own blooms. This may explain why the white rose you purchased suddenly blooms red the next spring!). In Florida and other areas of the south, roses are produced on a rootstock called "fortuniana," which is well adapted to the sandy, nematode-infested soils in some parts of the south. Frankly, we have been successful with roses on their own roots and on other rootstocks.

Roses can be grown from Maine to Florida. Most roses can be grown in any climate, but frankly some varieties are better adapted in some regions than others. The key to success is finding what you must do in your particular climate regardless of the variety that you select. For example, people who grow roses in humid southern areas such as South Carolina or Florida do not have the same concerns about winter tolerance as rose growers in the frigid north of Minnesota or Maine. But roses in humid climates must generally be protected from fungal diseases such as Black Spot. This means application of fungicide. Black Spot is not a major problem in the dry desert climates of California or Arizona, but another fungal disease, powdery mildew, is a problem in these climates. For greater success, you should choose roses that are well adapted for your region and the level of care that you can provide. If you select roses that need to be sprayed and you don’t spray, you will not be successful. Your local rose society is the best resource for determining the varieties to meet your needs in a particular geography.

Yes. Most new rose growers only recognize the typical "high-centered" rose bloom typically received from the florist shop. Actually, roses occur in a wide range of size (plant and flower), form, and color. They range in size from miniatures one to several feet in height to giant climbers that can cover a tree or a house. The flowers range from high centered, many-petaled flowers (as seen in at the florist) to five-petaled beauties that you might not think are roses. The petite miniatures may be less than an inch across while some of the larger hybrid teas can easily be 5-6 inches across. Roses can be grown for cutting (hybrid teas) or as mass color for the landscape (floribundas, grandifloras and shrubs). They are found in almost all flower colors with the exception of a true blue (although scientists have been making progress to create a blue rose!). Some will bloom only once a season but the majority bloom the first year after planting and then continuously from early summer to late fall. When you choose your roses, consider where you wish to plant them in the garden, what you want the rose to do for you (landscape or cutting), your plant hardiness zone, and whether or not you have the time or inclination to spray them. The ARS selection manual is a good source for comparing varieties for your needs. Your Jackson & Perkins catalog will also help you to make the appropriate selection. Some of the most popular types of roses are listed below.

Hybrid Teas— The most popular rose of all in the USA. When the average gardener thinks of roses, he sees hybrid teas. The classic florist form and long stems for cutting have made them favorites. They can also be the most demanding to maintain in many climates and may not be the best rose for beginning growers. J&P recommends Aperitif, Elle (a 2005 AARS winner), French Perfume, Opening Night, Pearl Essence, Rio Samba and Voodoo. (Photos)

Floribunda and Grandiflora—Floribundas and grandifloras both produce clusters of flowers and have great value in the garden where masses of color are needed. They are usually extremely vigorous and come in the same range of color as the hybrid tea. A J&P-recommended grandiflora is About Face (a 2005 AARS winner). Several J&P-recommended floribundas include Our Lady of Guadalupe, Honey Perfume and Love Potion. (Photos)

Miniatures—Miniatures are small roses with flower form that can be just like the hybrid tea. Plant size varies from 12-15" plants suitable for pots and low borders to 4-6 ft plants suitable as individual garden specimens. A new class of roses, the miniflora, is slightly larger than the miniature rose with many of the same characteristics.

Shrubs—No group of roses is more variable than shrubs. They can be any size or form. Flower form tends to be more open and casual compared to the hybrid tea. The David Austin English roses are part of this group, as well as many roses suitable for mass planting in the landscape (ground cover roses and rugosas, for example). Some of the most winter hardy and easy-to-care-for roses are found in this group. If you are looking for roses that do well without spraying, have a long bloom period, and produce the most color in the landscape, they will most likely come from the shrub class. Two good J&P-recommended English roses are Gertrude Jekyl and Golden Celebration. Also, a good, new low-maintenance shrub is Daydream (2005 AARS winner). (Photos)

Old Garden Roses—"Old" means that many of these roses existed prior to 1867 (Pre-1867 roses are known as Dowagers and post-1867 roses are known as Victorians). OGRs, as they are commonly and affectionately known, are the ancestors of modern roses. Some bloom only once a year, but that one flush of bloom can be a splendid sight in your garden. The real distinction of most OGRs is the heady fragrance that will perfume your garden and home.

Climbers—Roses don’t really climb or attach themselves to a support without help. Climbers and ramblers are characterized by long canes that can be attached by you to fences, posts and other supports. Many have a spectacular spring bloom followed by sporadic bloom periods thereafter. J&P recommends Stairway to Heaven as an excellent climber. (Photo)

Tree Roses— Not really trees, these are created when the desirable rose variety is budded onto a strong, tall rose cane (a.k.a. understock) that resembles a trunk. Tree roses can be miniature, hybrid teas, or shrubs. The trunk needs to be supported with a stake and they have a very formal, elegant look. Particularly effective varieties for tree roses are those that have a lax or weeping habit. They make nice focal points in the garden, but tend not to be winter-hardy. In cold climates, they may need to be tipped over and buried or grown in pots and over-wintered in an unheated, but not too cold garage.

We have been successful with thousands of varieties of roses and never hesitate to try new ones.

Don’t let the number of varieties and types of roses confuse you. Read the label, consult your local nursery, local rose society, or call a good retailer such as Jackson & Perkins for the characteristics of any variety that may catch your fancy.

Quite simply, some roses are fragrant and others are not. As a group, Old Garden Roses tend to be the most fragrant and miniatures the least. Hybrid teas and floribundas fall somewhere in the middle range. For many people, fragrance is what really distinguishes roses from other flowers. If you are planning to cut roses for the home or give away roses to friends, consider fragrance in your selection criteria. If you are buying a not-yet-blooming plant whose fragrance can’t be determined, consult the label or the ARS selection book. One advantage of buying a blooming plant is that you can sample the fragrance. So, whether lovely form or sweet fragrance, roses are a feast for your senses.

The hole should be generous (e.g. 2x2 feet), at least one-and-a-half times the size of the root ball. There should be plenty of space to fit a bare-rooted plant without tightly cramming the roots in the hole. Planting depth is similar for both bare-root and potted plants. Position the plant in the hole so that the bud union (that walnut-to-golf-ball-sized knot where the top of the plant meets the rootstock) will be partially covered with soil. (fig ). In colder areas the bud union should be completely covered with soil (fig). In warm climates the bud union may be several inches above the soil. (If there is any doubt about depth of planting, read the package directions or ask your local Consulting Rosarian.). For the southern fortuniana rootstock, the bud union should be 5-7 inches above the soil. Roses grown on their own roots will not have a bud union. These should be planted at the depth where the canes meet the roots.

We use a mixture of soil, organic matter (peat moss, shredded bark, compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold…depending what happens to be available at planting time). Sand is useful if your soil is heavy clay. Compost may be used as well. The end result should be a mixture that can be easily turned with your hands or shovel. (If you do not understand what this means, purchase a special pre-mixed planting soil from Lowe’s). Fill the hole around the roots or root ball about 2/3 full with your soil mix. Gently add water to cover the soil and allow it to drain (this removes any air pockets in the soil). Finish filling with more soil and water again thoroughly.

Bare-rooted plants need protection from early spring winds, particularly in cold climates, until their small feeder roots are well established. Mound the new bare-rooted plant 8-12’ high with good planting mix, leaf mold, or mulch (fig). Leave the mound in place for about a month or until the plant is actively growing and showing new leaves. This allows the roots time to establish. Potted roses (with already-established feeder roots) do not need to be mounded. In all cases, don’t forget to water your newly planted rose bush 2 to 3 times a week after planting! This period is most critical for rose bushes. Lack of care for a newly planted rose is the number one reason for failure!

While roses respond well to fertilizer, the roots of bare-rooted roses are very sensitive to fertilizer burn. The safest practice for the new rose grower is not to fertilize newly-planted bare root roses until you can see flower buds forming. So you should generally not put any fertilizer in the hole. Then, as the buds form, apply a water soluble fertilizer at half the strength recommended on the label and repeat two weeks later. Once the plant has bloomed it may be fertilized like any established plant.

In contrast, newly-planted potted roses should be fertilized at planting time with a water-soluble fertilizer. Potted roses already have feeder roots. Follow the label instructions on the fertilizer container for correct amounts.

Once your new roses have bloomed, follow feeding directions for maintaining established plants. Regular fertilization is essential for the best roses!

Sometimes, despite our best efforts, a rose plant will not grow. If this occurs, contact your retailer and they will generally replace it. Why it didn’t grow is not always clear. If you suspect that you have a soil problem, take a sample to a local university soil testing service and they will analyze and suggest appropriate amendments.

Roses do well in many soil types and are really very forgiving of poor soil. Mounding of bare rooted plants after planting is highly recommended. Keep them watered after planting!

Establishing potted roses after planting is relatively simple -- Keep them watered!

Be careful with fertilizer with newly planted bare root roses. Before you fertilize, allow them to produce buds and then apply a water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength.

Roses are established once they have flowered and successfully gone through a dormant period (winter). Once established, they can be handled as described below. Roses in their first season after planting need to be cared for much as any new plant in your garden.

Roses need at least 1-2 inches of water per week during the growing season (1 inch is generally 2-4 gallons depending on the size of the plant). Practically speaking, we water our roses with a hose until the soil is well saturated. We do it often. The water should penetrate the soil at least 18 inches. If the foliage starts to droop or wilt, you have probably waited too long. During dry periods, water at least twice a week. Water, water, water! It is a matter of common sense and experience. Roses that have been established for many years will be more drought tolerant than a newly planted rose. In general, roses require regular watering.

Yes. Most garden plants prosper with regular doses of a balance fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash (N-P-K). Roses are no exception and they are hungry plants. Quite frankly, every successful rose grower has their own feeding program and many approaches are successful. The key is to do it! Fertilizers come in many forms including granular, liquids, and powders that dissolve in water. Some fertilizers release their nutrients quickly while other "time release" products release nutrients over a long period of time. Roses respond well to both synthetic chemical fertilizer (like common granular fertilizers used on lawns) and also to natural organics (like horse manure or fish emulsion). Granular fertilizers are generally applied once a month and watered in well. If you should use a granular fertilizer for lawns, make sure that you do not apply a fertilizer mixed with a herbicide (weed and feed). This type of fertilizer will "see" the rose as a weed and kill it! Water soluble fertilizers are generally applied more frequently every two-three weeks. For convenience, choose a fertilizer designed specifically for roses.

We suggest that you fertilize established roses in the spring as the roses begin to grow (when the forsythia bloom in temperate climates) and make your last feeding around about 6 weeks before your normal first frost. This allows the rose to shut down and prepare for winter. Many roses will produce attractive seed pods called rose hips. These colorful pods are orange or red and make good winter food for birds. (Follow label directions for feeding amounts). Note: A great fertilizer "cocktail" is any water soluble fertilizer ( at its labeled amount for established roses) and an organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion (2 Tbsp/gallon). Another simple approach is to apply your water soluble fertilizer with a hose end sprayer. In this case, we use the water-soluble fertilizer without the fish emulsion. This application will not burn the leaves and the fertilizer will be absorbed by the leaves. Several applications a month apart during the growing season will give all your plants a boost. A simple fertilizer program is one application of a granular fertilizer in the spring followed by 2-4 applications of water soluble fertilizer during the growing season. Applications should be spaced at intervals so that the last application is at least 1 month before the end of the growing season.

Pruning is the process of removing excess growth, old or non-blooming canes, and dead branches to shape the plant and prepare it for another cycle of growth. Pruning encourages the rose to regenerate itself. Roses will continue to grow whether you prune or not, but experience tells us that the rose will be better as a result and be a more successful plant in the landscape. Proper pruning will stimulate your plant to produce vigorous new growth with many flowers. Pruning is best done after the rose has come through a period of dormancy (in the spring). Pruning allows the plant to focus its energy into fewer canes, helps to give the plant a tidy appearance, and allows the gardener to control the size and shape of the plant. Some rose growers prune in the fall, but we prefer the spring. In cold climates pruning must be done in the spring, even if some pruning has been done in the previous fall, to remove growth killed by the winter. Pruning tells the rose to resume growth. (Pruning figure or photo)

Roses can be shaped to fit your garden. Use sharp garden pruners for a clean cut. First, remove all dead wood. A living cane is usually green and when cut is white inside. Dead canes are brown or black. Cut about 1/4" above a "bud eye". The new growth will sprout from the bud eye. Generally, for roses used as landscape plants, remove no more than half of the previous season’s growth. After a severe winter, you may have to remove more than half the bush and in the coldest winters, roses may have to be cut to the ground. Some shrubs and Old Garden Roses do not require much pruning. Just remove dead wood and shape to fit the growing space. Shape the bush to grow outward and upward in a "vase" shape, noting the position of the bud eyes (fig). We suggest that the new rose grower avoid excess pruning.

Yes. Climbers require little, if any pruning in the first few years. Train the long canes onto a trellis or fence with twist-ties or twine. Many climbers bloom on the previous year’s growth, so do any necessary pruning after the first blooms are spent. This is usually early summer. For climbers, remove any dead wood and a portion of the oldest growth by cutting to the ground. Tidy up the remaining growth. There is no formula for how many canes to leave.

Yes, it is a good idea, particularly for hybrid teas, to remove spent blooms. Some low care roses do not require trimming and continue to bloom well without it. Trimming (also called deadheading) is the process of removing spent blooms throughout the growing season and is very important to encourage new blooms. Cut below the spent bloom to above the next "bud eye" facing toward the outside of the plant (fig). This also helps to maintain good air circulation and minimize disease. A new shoot will grow and bloom in 30-50 days depending on the variety. In the first year after planting we minimize the length of stem removed. In the second year, as the plant matures and shows more vigor, we cut whatever length of stem we wish. For a rose with many dead flowers, it is a simple matter to use a hedge trimmer.

Mulch is any material, organic or not, placed over the soil surface to keep roots cool, retard competition from weeds, and make for a tidy appearing garden. Three to four inches is usually sufficient. Mulches include mushroom compost, wood chips, leaf mold, pine needles, straw, hay, and peat moss. We have used a layer of black landscape fabric covered with wood chips.

Dealing with diseases and pests of roses can be a challenge for any rose grower. The rose grower has to make choices. There are roses to suit every approach. Namely, some roses can be grown without pesticides (chemicals that kill pests), but the majority of roses benefit from regular applications of products that control the major insect and disease pests. (Photos of black spot, mildew, and a few insects)

Yes, there are "Good Practices", whether you decide to spray or not, that are helpful.

Encourage good air circulation in your garden that allows foliage to dry to help minimize foliar diseases

Choose a planting site that gets morning sun. This allows any dew to dry quickly and will reduce conditions that encourage foliar disease.

Water roses in the morning or during the heat of the day to allow the foliage to dry before night to help minimize foliar diseases.

Choose a planting site with good drainage to minimize conditions for root rot and to allow oxygen to get to the roots.

Purchase rose varieties that are disease resistant or tolerant. This information is best obtained from your local rose societies.

When you prune, open up the plant to improve air circulation by cutting out crossed branches.

Remove diseased leaves in the spring as they appear to slow the development of disease epidemics.

Use all pesticides prudently and according to the label. This will help to keep the populations of good insects high in your garden.

In summer, give the bottoms of the leaves an occasional high-pressure wash to discourage and remove spider mites. If it’s particularly hot and dry, do this several days in a row.

Most pests should be sprayed only when they are present in sufficient numbers to cause damage. For example, seeing a few aphids or Japanese beetles in the garden is not a cause to spray. Certain diseases, however, such as Black Spot, are best treated preventatively.

Keep your garden neat and tidy. Clean up debris in the spring, destroy all old leaves and prune canes.

This will depend on where you live, but some are common in many parts of the country.

Aphids are small, soft greenish insects that appear in spring and feed on the new growth. Japanese beetles appear in early summer and feed on both leaves and flowers. They are easily killed, but new insects may appear every few days. A simple approach is to pick the beetles off by hand and drown them in a jar of soapy water when there few and spray when the populations are large. Also, during the 4-6 week period when beetles are a problem, cut any new blooms early in the day (before the beetles start feeding) and enjoy them inside your home. Pheromone-based beetle traps do attract beetles but they are not effective in keeping them off your roses. Spider mites may bother your roses when the weather is hot and dry. They and their webs will be barely visible on the undersides of leaves and can cause the leaves to yellow and die. In addition to pesticides, a simple power spray with water to the underside of leaves every few days will control them fairly well. Black Spot is the number one problem in humid parts of the USA. If your rose plant starts to show typical symptoms — black spots on the leaves, surrounded by irregular yellow areas, with the affected leaves dropping to the ground — you have black spot. If not controlled, black spot can cause complete defoliation and lead to a weak, non blooming plant. Powdery Mildew often occurs when nights are cool, the humidity is high and rainfall is low — usually in the fall. The fungus is visible as white, powdery growth on young leaves and stems. Infected areas are deformed and flowering is inhibited.

You will probably see other insects and diseases, too. Generally, these are not enough to worry about. They will pass and your plant will keep growing and producing beautiful roses. Spraying is intended ONLY for problems that really need to be controlled. If you are not certain you have a serious problem and need to know whether or not to spray, ask a Consulting Rosarian or contact your local rose society.

Which products are recommended to control rose pests?

There are many products available to control rose pests. Bayer Advanced Garden makes an excellent line that handles most problems that you might encounter and these are described below. (Photos of several Bayer products)

This product contains 3 active systemic ingredients that provide complete rose care for up to 6 weeks, a fertilizer to stimulate growth and produce blooms, an insecticide to control common insects such as aphids and beetles and a fungicide to control diseases such as black spot, powdery mildew, and rust. This unique product can be mixed in a watering can and applied at the base of the plant. No spraying is needed!

This product is a granule containing an insecticide and a fertilizer. It is applied to the ground around the plant and is absorbed by the roots and distributed throughout the plant. One application feeds and protects against insects for 6 weeks. It also kills spider mites.

The product comes in a ready-to-use (no mixing) for small areas and a ready-to-use (no mixing) in a convenient hose end sprayer for large areas. The product kills insects such as aphids, beetles, leaf miners, and whiteflies on contact and also provides systemic protection for 30 days.

This product is a concentrate that is mixed in water and sprayed on the rose bush to control major fungal diseases that attack rose foliage including black spot, rust, and powdery mildew. It is rainproof and one application lasts for up to 2 weeks.

This depends on the number of roses you grow and your climate. We will provide several examples using the Bayer Advanced products.

2-in-1 Rose & Flower Care two to three times during the growing season starting at the appearance of leaves.

Supplement with ready-to-use Rose & Flower Insect Killer (24 oz. bottle).

2-in-1 Rose & Flower Care two to three times during the growing season starting at the appearance of leaves.

Supplement with ready-to-use Rose & Flower Insect Killer (32 oz. hose- end sprayer).

All-in-One Rose & Flower Care two to three times during the growing season starting at the appearance of leaves.

Supplement with ready-to-use Rose & Flower Insect Killer (24 oz. bottle).

Spray Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs starting at the appearance of leaves. Continue on a 2 week interval throughout the growing season. If an interval is missed, resume applications when able. Discontinue applications at the first hard freeze.

Supplement with ready-to-use Rose & Flower Insect Killer (32 oz. hose- end sprayer).

Adopt a simple approach to rose pest control and stick with it. Consistency pays off.

This depends on the roses you select and your desired outcome. If you select easy-care type roses, you can avoid spraying. These roses are not immune to problems, but they will tolerate them and continue to bloom. The rugosa roses do not like to be sprayed and are a good example of easy-care type roses. The hybrid tea generally requires spraying. But even hybrid teas vary in their tolerance to diseases and insects. Some rose growers choose not to spray, but this can lead to a poor growing experience, especially if a plant is highly susceptible to the number one rose problem in humid climates — Black Spot. Few roses are immune to Black Spot and most hybrid teas are susceptible to some degree. Finally, Bayer Advanced Garden’s All-in-One Rose and Flower Care is a non- spray product that can provide excellent control of insects and diseases.

No. Pesticides should not generally be applied to roses with a hose-end sprayer. Beyond that limitation, there are many to choose from. The volume of the sprayer will be determined by the number of plants you grow. You don’t have to over-soak the plant. Many pesticides are systemic and move readily into the leaf even if the leaf is not completely covered.

Many of the garden chemicals we use to kill pests can be poisonous to us as well. If you take the following safety precautions whenever you spray, you shouldn’t have any problems.

Wear cotton clothing to cover your skin.

Protect your eyes and wear a hat.

Use disposable plastic gloves when measuring pesticides.

Spray on days when there is little or no wind.

Keep your body out of spray drift.

Prepare as little spray as needed and dispose of any extra chemical by spraying in an isolated place away from children and pets.

Thoroughly wash and rinse your sprayer after each use.

DO NOT use weed killer in this sprayer (it’ll kill your roses)!

Store chemical concentrates out of the reach of children.

Keep children and pets out of the sprayed area until the chemical is thoroughly dry.

Chemical companies often make changes in their products. Read the pesticide label for the correct amount to use. Sources of many products may be found online. For more pesticide information, contact the National Pesticide Telecommunications Network at (800) 858-737

The rose varieties that you select will determine whether you must control pests.

When you spray, it is more important to protect yourself than the roses.

ALWAYS read the label of any pesticide and follow all directions.

 

This will depend on your climate. In warm climates the winter is not a cause for concern. It is generally a good idea to remove any diseased foliage on the plant or surrounding the plant prior to spring pruning. In the colder parts of the country, there is more to do. Many roses can and will survive even the most severe northern winters with no protection at all. Others can be damaged or killed depending on temperature, soil moisture, wind and other factors. Experience will quickly tell you which varieties are winter sensitive and need to be protected. Hybrid Teas tend to be more sensitive than old garden roses and shrubs, but there are many exceptions. Miniature roses are usually not budded and after a couple of years in the ground, most will survive with little winterizing in many climates. A loose layer of leaves is beneficial on miniatures

We can’t control the weather, but we do know there will be some winters in the north that damage roses. Roses generally don’t show winter damage unless the temperature drops to 10 degrees or less, but wind, snow cover, variety, all affect the amount of damage in a given winter. By putting a layer of mulch or soil over the bud union or covering the plant with a rose cone, you insulate it from the winter. Even if some growth above the "insulation" is killed, your plant will grow again from the protected buds. In climates where temperatures go below zero, it is a good idea to bury sensitive roses. In these climates it is wise to select roses that are well adapted to cold in the first place. The USDA hardiness zone is often used to characterize the winter hardiness of rose. Consult the USDA map to identify your particular zone. Remove any winter protection in the spring, after the danger of the last hard freeze (a full night of 25 degrees or lower) has passed.

Roses can be grown very successfully in pots. Potted roses serve many uses. They allow people to grow roses on decks, balconies, patios, or in yards with limited space. They can be moved around and serve as beautiful accents for the garden. We have been successful with all types of pots. We like to use a good potting soil for our potted roses and a pot with drainage. They must be kept well watered and cared for as you would your other roses during the growing season. In the winter, special care is needed if you live in a cold climate. If the pots are left outside with no protection, the roses may die. Bury the pot in the ground, winterize as you would a planted rose, or store the pot in a garage or shed provided that the temperatures do not fall below 25 degrees or rise above 50 degrees. Make sure your stored roses are watered monthly throughout the winter since it is very dry in a garage. In warm climates, the roses can remain outside all year round.

Winter ~ Roses are dormant now in most areas. This is a good time to mail-order bareroot plants (dormant roses without any soil—usually packed for in moist sphagnum or shredded newspaper). Consult the American Rose Society for a list of suppliers. Winter is also a good time to sharpen your pruners and clean your tools. Take stock of your garden and plan where to plant your roses.

Spring ~ Spring is a good time to prune your roses. Leaf buds are beginning to swell and the first leaves are sprouting. After pruning established bushes, apply a granular fertilizer and water it in well. When the soil can be dug, plant bareroot roses from mail order or local sources. Water well and regularly. Begin spraying for Black Spot in humid climates. Spray for insects too, if necessary. Fertilize established roses. Apply mulch (such as shredded bark) to keep the soil cool and retard weeds.

Summer ~ With proper care you should be enjoying beautiful roses! Cut a bouquet in the morning (the best time to cut). Remove spent blooms to encourage new growth and more blooms. As summer goes on pests such as Japanese beetles may appear (depending on your location). Watch for other insects, spider mites and diseases (Black Spot!). Keep rose beds free from weeds. Blooms will be smaller in the heat. In late summer, apply an organic tonic (fish emulsion or manure tea). Keep your roses watered! Water is one of the simplest secrets to growing good roses. Don’t forget.

Fall ~ Cooler nights return. Good summer care will keep your roses blooming late into the Fall. Enjoy the beautiful colors of autumn roses! Watch for powdery mildew now and spray if you see it. In the late Fall, cold weather returns. Transplant any roses that need relocating. Winterize your roses with soil and/or leaf mulch to protect the bud union. This is not necessary in warm climates.

This booklet has been written to provide basic information. Once you’ve learned the basics and experienced the rewards of rose growing, you may wish to dig deeper and learn more. In-depth information can be obtained from detailed rose books (Roses for Dummies, 2^nd edition, by LanceWalheim and the National Gardening Association), on-line web sites (http://www.ARS.org), and through an extensive network of Consulting Rosarians (CRs) and rose societies throughout the USA. Check with the American Rose Society (ARS) to find a CR or a rose society near you.

Membership in the American Rose Society and in your local rose society is an excellent way not only to answer your questions but also to meet others who enjoy growing roses. Growing beautiful roses is fun and rewarding at any age and can become a lifelong hobby! Consider joining the ARS and your local rose society.

(318) 938-5402,

Fax: (318) 938-5405

Or online at http://www.ars.org.

Double Delight, Hybrid Tea, red blend; very fragrant, 4-5 ft., ARS rating 8.6

Elina, Hybrid Tea, pale yellow; slight fragrance, 5-6 ft., ARS rating 8.8

Folklore, Hybrid Tea, orange blend; very fragrant, 5-7 ft., ARS rating 8.4

Frederic Mistral, Hybrid Tea, light pink, 6 ft., intense fragrance, ARS rating 7.9

Marijke Koopman Hybrid Tea, medium pink, 4-6 ft., fragrant, ARS rating 8.9

Mister Lincoln, Hybrid Tea, dark red; 5-7 ft., very fragrant, ARS rating 8.5

Queen Elizabeth, Grandiflora, medium pink; 5-7 ft., fragrant, ARS rating 7.5

Rina Hugo, Hybrid Tea, deep, hot pink; 4 ft., slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.0

Europeana, Floribunda, dark velvety red; slight fragrance, 3-4 ft., ARS rating 8.9

Iceberg, Floribunda, white; 4-6 ft., fragrant, ARS rating 8.9

Nicole, Floribunda , white/pink blend, 5-6 ft, slight fragrance, ARS rating 9.1

Playboy, Floribunda, red/orange blend, 5-7 ft., slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.2

Sexy Rexy, Floribunda, fleshy pink, 4-5 ft., slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.9

Sunsprite, Floribunda, deep yellow; 4-5 ft., slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.9

Marchesa Boccella, OGR, pale pink; 3-5 ft., very fragrant, ARS rating 8.9

Zephirine Drouhin, OGR, medium pink, 6 ft., very fragrant, ARS Rating 8.1

Altissimo, Climber, medium velvety red; slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.5

America, Climber, orange-pink; slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.4

Eden, or Eden Rose 88, Climber, pink blend; slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.2

Fourth of July, Climber, red/white stripes, apple fragrance, ARS rating 8.2

New Dawn, Climber, light pink; slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.5

The Fairy, Polyantha, light pink; 3-4 ft., slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.7

Black Jade, Miniature, black-red; no fragrance, 18-24 in., ARS rating 8.2

Giggles, Miniature, peachy pink, 5-7 ft., slight fragrance, ARS rating 9.1

Irresistible, Miniature, white; 18-24 in., fragrant, ARS rating 9.3

Jeanne Lajoie, Mini Climber, dusty pink; 7-10 ft., no fragrance, ARS rating 9.3

Minnie Pearl, Miniature, pink blend; 18-24 in., no fragrance, ARS rating 9.4

Rainbow’s End, Miniature, yellow blend: 18 in., no fragrance, ARS Rating 8.4

Autumn Sunset, shrub, apricot blend; 5-8 ft., moderate fragrance, ARS rating 7.6

Baby Blanket, shrub, light pink, low, spreading, slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.1

Carefree Delight, shrub, pink blend, spreading, no fragrance, ARS rating 8.2

Frau Dagmar Hartopp, shrub, pale pink, 3 ft., spicy fragrance, ARS rating 8.5

Knock Out, shrub, red blend, 3 ft., slight fragrance, too new for ARS rating

Lyda Rose, shrub, pinkish-white, 5-7 ft., moderate fragrance, ARS rating 8.9

Pink Meidiland, shrub, pink blend, 3-4 ft., no fragrance, ARS rating 8.6

Royal Bonica, Shrub, medium pink; 3-4 ft., slight fragrance, ARS rating 7.7

Sally Holmes, Shrub, creamy white, 6-8 ft., slight fragrance, ARS rating 8.9

 

 

9.3-10: One of the best roses ever (seldom awarded)