Running the AH-4 Mobile
On this page, we'll discuss using the AH-4 for
mobile operation. Note that most comments also apply to all tuners that are
similar to the AH-4. Also please note that I have never actually operated
mobile! I'd like to get around to that someday and as a result have been
collecting information and documenting it here on this page. But until I get
more time, I have had to rely on other hams for the practical experience that I
lack.
One nice thing about running a web site is that I
get a lot of E-mail from hams all around the world. Sometimes I get things wrong
and they correct me. Sometimes they have information I was not aware of. Many of
the times they ask questions. I hope that I will also get correspondence
regarding this page. Consider this page to be a heavily moderated (by me)
reference for mobile operation that has many, many contributors. In adding
information to this page, I will be looking for facts, verifiable information,
and good engineering practices. Rumors and unverifiable opinions will be so
indicated.
Good Mobile Engineering Practices and Observations
- Get the power to the rig: Run large gauge wire
(typically 8 gauge or larger) directly from the battery to the radio. Use a
fuse at the battery. Run both positive and ground conductors. Why? Assuming
you're using 100 watts, the radio may use as much as 20 amps. If there is a
significant voltage drop to the radio, circuits within the radio may not
operate correctly. For example, if the IC-706 input voltage falls below
10.5, the PLL may loose lock and the radio will start to change frequency.
When the engine is off and you have been using the battery for a while, you
can't afford much loss in the power connection!
- Think of the vehicle as being 1/2 of the
antenna system. (The antenna is the other half.) Look at it this way, the
vehicle is 1/2 of a dipole, the antenna is the other half. Where ever you
make the electrical connection to the antenna, make sure you get a good
ground to the vehicle. Also make sure that the metal you grounded to is
grounded to the rest of the car!
- Grounding: Just because your car is made of
bits of metal, don't assume that all metal bits are electrically connected
together - at least from an RF point of view. You may need to electrically
bond various components of your vehicle together.
- Get the antenna up in the air. If the base of
the antenna on your van is mounted on the trailer hitch, that section of
antenna that is near the van will interact with the metal of the vechile.
Imagine you built a dipole, but at the center feed point instead of running
the wires out away from each other, one side of the dipole ran parallel to
the other for half of its length. How well would that dipole work? That's
what you're doing when you run the antenna near the metal of your vehicle.
- Place the tuner's output connection within a
few cm of the feed point of the antenna. And by that I don't mean 100 cm!
Any wire you have running from the tuner to the antenna is part of the
antenna system.
- Ground the tuner. The AH-4 mounting brackets
are not grounded! Use the grounding terminal and make sure you have a good,
solid ground.
- Make the antenna as long as possible. A 2-3
meter whip (7-9 feet) will almost always work well on the higher frequencies
such as 20 through 6 meters. As the antenna gets electrically short (at
lower frequencies) the design of the antenna system becomes more and more
critical. It would seem to me to make sense to put a capacitive top hat on
the antenna to improve tuning on the lower frequencies. Has anyone tried
this?
- The impedance of the antenna can get real ugly
as the frequency goes down. EZNEC tells me that a 3 meter whip on 10 meters
over a perfect ground has an impedance of 60.41 + J 81.39 ohms. Not bad. The
AH-4 can certainly live with that. At 20 meters the impedance becomes 9.637 - J 225.7 ohms.
Getting ugly, but still well within the range of the AH-4. At 40 meters the
impedance becomes 2.185 - J 609.8 ohms and 80 meters is 0.6297 - J 1189 ohms.
Now that's real ugly! Icom suggests a minimum 7 meter antenna which would
result in an 80 meter impedance of 3.577 - J 544.8 ohms. That gives us an
idea regarding what the AH-4 will tolerate. I have to admit it would be
impressive to see a mobile with a 7 meter (23 foot) antenna! All this says
is that on 80, and perhaps 40 meters, it may be necessary to give the AH-4 a
little help. Even if the AH-4 will tune a 3 meter whip on 80, the losses in
the tuner may be large enough that you won't be radiating much.
- If you add a loading coil, use a large
diameter conductor. Keep an eye on the spacing of the windings and look out
for self resonance caused by interwinding capacitance. Your coil may look
more like a trap at certain frequencies! Keep "stuff" like the
metal body of the car, away from the coil.
- Get away from "stuff" when tuning
your antenna. The mutual coupling of two mobile rigs parked near one another
is impressive. At least get away from houses, buildings, antenna farms, etc.
when tuning.
- Antennas do not have to be
"resonant" to be efficient. Non-resonant antennas can be
inefficient (as can resonant antennas), but that is because they were
designed that way. An AH-4 installation can be as efficient as any other,
but there are tradeoffs. A center loaded antenna can result in a more
reasonable impedance to match, but then you have a big coil exposed to the
environment. This may be the best solution if you want to operate on 80 and
don't want to build a matching network between the tuner and the antenna. So
here are the tradeoffs as I see them:
AH-4 easily change frequency/band, works great 20-6 meters. Needs help
matching 80-40 on short antennas, probably too much trouble.
Center loaded whip antenna: works great (as far as mobile goes) on all
bands, but not easily tuned to different band/frequencies. BUC (Big Ugly
Coil) exposed to the environment.
- Don't expect the mobile installation to work
as well as a base station. At best you'll be more than 10 dB below a well
designed base installation. But that doesn't mean you won't make plenty of
contacts! Folks running QRP work the world all of the time.