HOWIE AND NANCY'S BIG ISLAND, HAWAI'I PAGE
The "Orchid Island" - The "Volcano Island"
Big Island, Hawai'i - 12/00
"10,000 ALOHA'S from Howie and Nancy!!"
We have returned from heaven! It has magnificent colorful fish and coral reefs, dolphins, seals, turtles, hawks, whales, an active volcano with flowing lava, caves, lush rainforests, colorful birds and flowers, black sand beaches, green valleys, wild horses, and countless clean, clear streams and waterfalls of all sizes. Our map says it is Hawaii's "Big Island", but clearly this is an error!! Heaven it is.
God was with us on this trip as we slipped out of Boston, and through Chicago, and then on to Kailua-Kona, HI., right between two of the winter's nastiest snowstorms. I prayed every night for a week that the evening of 12/22/00 would find us touching down on Hawaiian soil, not home in Boston, or trapped in Chicago's airport. A thousand "Mahalos" Lord, from Nancy and I. We can not thank you enough!
Disclaimer - If you have only seen Hawai'i as portrayed by Hollywood cinema, television, and magazine advertisements, please do a "brain flush". It is absolutely nothing like this. Perhaps the information and photos to follow will assist is showing this.
Big Island, Hawai'i "Factoids "
1) The Big Island of Hawaii is larger in land mass than all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, yet has only 5% of all of Hawaii's total population.
2) The Hawaiian Islands archipelago is the most remote land mass on earth, being over 3,000 miles from the nearest continent (and 5,500 miles from our home in Boston, MA).
3) The Big Island consists of 5 volcanoes of which Kailua, is the most active on the planet earth. It has been putting on a non stop display, sometimes tame, and at other times utterly spectacular, since 1983.
4) The volcanic mountain Mauna Kea is 13,796 feet high, and is often snow covered at it's peak. Yes - people do ski and snowboard in Hawaii! With 325 perfectly clear nights at it's summit, Mauna Kea is home to 23 of the world's largest and most advanced and sophisticated optical and radio telescopes including the Keck I and Keck II..
5) The tropical reefs of the Big Island are the most robust in all of the Hawaiian Islands, and are easily explored. Since the island is volcanic, and has no real "white sand" beaches (other than those in the tourist areas, where sand has actually been brought in on barges to create the type of beach seen in the movies), the water is crystal clear.
6) The rain forests on the coast above Hilo are spectacular in sight and sound. This area gets more rain than almost any place on earth (over 800 inches per year!), and is home to an endless variety of magnificently colored birds, and spectacular flora and fauna. The air sings with the songs of birds of all size, shape and color, and the forest is lush with giant ferns, enormous vines, and wild fruit, berry and nut trees. Clear streams and waterfalls abound. In our opinion, theses rain forests were more impressive than those we have visited in the Amazon Basin of Peru.
7) The KONA coffee, grown at 1,000 to 2,000 feet above sea level in the small area on the "dry" side (only 10-20 inches of rainfall per year) of the Island known as the S. Kona District, is amongst the finest in the world. We drank, and brought home much, (despite it's $18 - $28 per pound price tag at its source). As coffee goes, this is "DaKine" (Hawaiian slang meaning "The Best"), and after drinking it, all other coffee you used to relish, becomes just OK. Please be advised that not all Kona is alike, and as with most products there are different levels of quality. The size of the bean is the determining factor, with larger beans being better and more flavorful. In terms of best to worst (the worst still being great) the scale runs as follows:
a) Peaberry - A unique situation where the coffee "cherry" (which ordinarily consists of two back to back beans per pod, produces only a single bean. Expect to pay (at the source in Kona), between $25 and $30 per pound). If you love coffee as we do, we recommend you bring back at least a pound. This stuff is unbelievable!
b) Extra Fancy - the finest non-Peaberry produced in Kona (and some will say the world).
c) Fancy - As the name implies.
d) Number 1- Not really, as you can see from above, but still great coffee.
e) Prime - "the worst of the best".
f) KONA "Blend" - Not a good value, as you are paying for the "Kona" name, not the quality. By law, a coffee with a Kona "Blend" classification needs to contain only 10% Kona beans. The rest can be almost anything. It is reasonable to assume that this 10% will consist of low quality "chipped" beans. The price tag on this is not coffee is not very intimidating, but the coffee is not all that great.
Tip - If you plan to use the coffee for Expresso type drinks, make sure to get a dark roast. Whole bean is in all cases preferable to ground coffee. A good grinder is only about $10 - $15, and the difference is clearly noticeable. Whole bean coffee will last as much as 6 months if unopened and in a freezer. Once opened, the beans will show signs of losing strength and flavor in just a few days, but if properly cared for, will produce good coffee for several more weeks. After each use, reseal the beans removing all air from the bag, and store in them in he freezer in heavy freezer type baggie. Air is the coffee's enemy, so take time to get as much air out of the bags as possible.
8) The road system, Beaches, and National Parks on the Big Island are superb. There is never a charge for beach access or parking. ALL beaches are accessible (sometimes a hike is required). Bathroom facilities, changing areas, and showers are almost always available at no charge as well. The National Park fees run from $2 to $10 per car, for a 7 day permit. Camping along beautiful and remote black sand beaches (with full bathroom and shower facilities) will cost around $5 per person for a one week permit. This is real camping, not the type where you have your 100 square feet of land, right next to everyone else's. Big Island camping is the absolute best! The main roads are well marked, and even the perimeter highway (all of 2 lanes, but the Big Island's largest road) is well lit at night.
9) The people who live here (both natives and "transplants") are amongst the most friendly and helpful we have met in all our travels. Things move a bit more slowly here than "mainlanders" are used to. Get used to seeing lots of smiles!
Big Island, Hawai'i Myths and Illusions
1) Hula girls, Don Ho, Hawaii Five-O - Simply forget it! If you go to the small area with all the tourist hotels you, will find this. It is strictly a manufactured phenomenon that you will find nowhere else on the Big Island.
2) Hawaii is expensive - We seriously disagree! If you want to stay in the tourist area along the North Kona coast (interestingly enough, this is arguably the least visually pleasing coastal area on the entire island), you will pay several $100 per night for a nice clean sterile room in a hotel or resort with 100's or 1,000's of "tourists" with goofy hats and flowered shirts. Additionally, you can relax (?) on crowded beaches, overpay for everything, wait in line at crowded over rated restaurants (where you will never taste the native foods or cooking styles), listen to music similar to what you see and hear on TV, fight your way through traffic and battle for parking. There is the usual array of Burger Kings, McDonalds, Dunkin'' Donuts, overpriced stores, and the like. Bring a helmet and full clip - This is New York City with beaches and palm trees, and YES - IT IS EXPENSIVE! Additionally, you are unlikely to meet any native Hawaiians here.
On the other hand, you can do as we did. We paid $328 in total, for 10 days usage of a mid-sized rental car, with unlimited mileage. We stayed in beautiful B&B's and a small hotel owned by locals, ranging from $65 to $85 per night, including full breakfasts. These will be described below, and we recommend all highly. The Big Island has no toll roads, beach fees, or parking fees (perhaps parking is charged for in Kailua-Kona - I am not sure). For the even more budget minded we saw small, clean hotels with rooms with a shared bath, starting at $15 per night! Youth and Traveler Hostels are about the same price.
Camping can run as much as 75 cents per day (this is not a typo), and this is spectacular camping!.
Food is generally about 35 - 50% more than on the mainland, and gas ranges from $2.10 to $2.30 per gallon. These must be imported, and as such, the cost is higher than on the mainland. If you like papayas, mangos, breadfruit, starfruit, bananas, etc., these are plentiful, and as little as 1/8 the cost that we pay on the east coast of the mainland. I saw beautiful fresh papayas for sale at a roadside fruit stand for 25 cents each. These are not at all like the green "cannonballs" seen in the supermarkets on the East coast of the mainland, but beautiful bright yellow lush and tasty treats.
3) Air travel to Hawaii is expensive. This is sometimes true. During Christmas and Easter vacation, expect to pay over $1,200 for a round trip fare from most east coast gateways. You will pay somewhat less during other times when the mainland is in the Winter season (depending on how far in advance you book). But - here's a little unpublicized secret. The best time to go to Hawaii is in the Summer!!! The average daytime high temperature on the Big Island varies about 4 degrees between Summer and Winter. Since the Summer is low season, everything, particularly airfare and lodging , can be as much as 60% less than during peak season. Airfares for under $500 (round trip) abound, and package deals which include a car and lodging are always available. Outside of the tourist area of N. Kona and the town of Wiamea, the Big Island is never really crowded, even during high season. In the summer you will have the place to yourself.
4) Hawaii is too crowded. Get this thought out of your head immediately. Outside of the Island of Oahu, the main town on Kaua'i, the Lahina area of Maui, and the N. Kona District and town of Wiamea on the Big Island, there are no crowds to be found here (yet). You see, there are direct flights from all over the world as well as many mainland US gateways to Oahu and Maui. To get to Kauai (in most cases), Moloka'i, or the Big Island, you must transfer through Honolulu. This mini-hassle (it adds all of 40 minutes to your journey), dramatically reduces the tourist traffic. Should any of these Islands decide to build runways that can handle 747's, all bets are off. My point is simple. It is best to visit and enjoy these "out islands" now, while you can still get a feel for what the real Hawaiian culture is all about, before it all changes. I assure you, it will. I was in Maui in the late 80's and then again in 1998, and I could not believe how much building and commercialization had taken place in 10 years.
OUR ROUTE
We spent many hours researching the route we had planned to take. We had 9 1/2 days on the ground, and wanted to get a feel for all of the Big Island's unbelievable highlights. We did a remarkably good job, and in retrospect, would not change this route if we were to do it again (with 9 1/2 days that is). Since most of the interior of the Big Island is lava fields and pasture, there is really not much to see or do there. In addition, most of this area is inaccessible (except perhaps by mule!). Most activities are along, or a few miles inland from, the coast. As such, we took a coastal route. Without a doubt, the most important and comprehensive book available on the Big Island is "Hawaii - The Big Island Revealed" by Doughty and Friedman (Wizard Publications). This is an indispensable tool, and the authors tell it like it is. If they have a bad experience at a lodging, restaurant or activity, they are not afraid to say so. Additionally, updates and additions to the book are posted on their web pages, so the book remains current at all times. They do not provide B&B information, but this is readily available on the web.
We landed in Kailua-Kona, and spent 3 nights in South Kona at Pomaikai ("Lucky") Farm B&B (Described below in the "Lodgings" section), in the lovely town of Captain Cook. The South Kona area is known for its superb snorkeling, great beaches, and world class coffee and Macadamia nut farms.
The next 3 nights were spent in the Kilauea Volcano area in the town of Volcano Village, at the "Country Goose" B&B". This area is home to Volcanoes National Park and is a "Must See". A full section is devoted to this below.
From here we drove north along the "flower coast" (due to the enormous amount of rain here, everything grows to unimaginable proportions), to the Waipi'o Valley where we stayed 2 nights at "Moo's Log Cabin" in the town of Kukuihaele. There are many nice stops along the way where you can see spectacular rain forests (amongst the most lush and best preserved on earth), 400+ foot waterfalls, and black sand beaches with hugh rocks and big pounding surf. Additionally the towns of Kukuihaele and Honomu (home to many friendly and colorful characters) are well worth spending some time in. There is a section below describing these towns and stops along the way.
The Waipi'o Valley is beautiful beyond description with unimaginable deep green lush tropical gulches, rugged and deserted black sand beaches, Hi'ilawe Falls (1600 feet high and the largest on the Big Island), steep cliffs and wild horses. There are no tourist hotels or resorts along this coast, as the high annual rainfall here makes the other (dry) side of the island far more commercially viable. This side of the island however is the most spectacular. We sincerely wish we had another day or two to spend is this area.
We then drove north through the pass between the Kohala Mountains, and then east, towards Pololu Beach on the upper N.E. coast of the Island. The little towns of Hawi and Kapa'au should not be missed, and offer the visitor a wealth of things to do and see. Following the western coast of the island we then drove south back to Captain Cook, in the S. Kona District. The northwest coast has some very nice beach parks, but in general, is perhaps the least interesting area of the island visually. This area is mostly lava fields, and there is little vegetation. It is not very interesting. Additionally, this is the "tourist area" and is composed to a large degree of resorts, hotels, and golf courses (not our style).
Our final night was spent back at "go" in the little town of Captain Cook. We stayed at the Manago Hotel, where for an additional $14 you can get a traditional Japanese style room (see the "Lodgings" section below). Needless to say, we did.
Lodgings
Pokamai "Lucky Farm B&B - Captain Cook, HI - (800-3ALOHAS) - $55 - $65 per night. This is a wonderful and inexpensive little B&B, situated on a 100 year old working coffee and Macadamia nut farm. Fruit and Macadamia nut trees abound, and the fresh tropical fruits and tasty "Mac" nuts are literally dripping from them. Many of these fruits, nuts, and berries are used in your morning breakfast which includes unlimited Kona coffee, grown right on the farm! We had a medium sized room attached to the main house (the "Greenhouse Room"). It had screens, instead of glass windows. This was a nice change, and gives one a real feel for sleeping outside, without having to deal with all the insect creatures and wild pigs that live on the farm. Wild pigs inhabit areas of the Big Island where fruit trees grow. These are non native, introduced animals, and are very destructive to the ecology of the Big Island. Help yourself to all the "Mac" nuts you can eat. The B&B has a nice community kitchen under the main deck complete with sinks and refrigeration. Snorkel gear, as well as other sports related equipment is available for your usage at no charge. The main house is tastefully decorated with items that your host Nita Isherwood has collected throughout her world travels. She is a delightful woman, and a makes a darn good breakfast which includes farm fresh fruits and plenty of hot Kona coffee, as well as many other homemade culinary delights. Many of the jams, spreads, and jellies available at breakfast are homemade from nuts, fruits and berries grown right on the farm, and provide one with some new and delightful tastes and smells. The B&B is situated at 1,200 feet above sea level and the ocean view, and sunset from the back lanai are beautiful. The location is superb, being only a few minutes from many local coffee estates, the "Place of refuge" (described later in this page), and the best snorkeling sites on the island. Best wishes and many "mahalo's" to Nita, who made our first few nights on the Big Island special. Her farm grown fresh foods and Kona Coffee make me salivate when I think about them.
The Country Goose B&B - Volcano Hawaii - (800-238-7101) - from $70 per night. Although this B&B can handle as many as 30 guests, this is a first class show in all respects. Lodgings are in the main house, as well as a variety of nearby houses and cottages. The grounds of the main house are beautiful. Lush giant ferns and beautiful plants and flowers abound. We had a lovely cottage about 1 block from the main house. It was tastefully decorated, clean, modern, roomy, and fully equipped. Your host will be Joan Earley. She is a "one person band", with an occasional "sous chef" to assist at breakfast when she has a large number of guests. Joan seems to have no difficulty putting out a beautiful multi-course breakfast spread for 30 people. I myself can't seem to get spaghetti and sauce to make it to the table hot and at the same time! She is extremely well organized, and is able to pull this feat off using a non-commercial kitchen (that is, her kitchen is not much different than one might find in most single family mainland homes). The B&B's location couldn't be better, as it is about 1.5 miles from the entrance to Volcanoes National Park (see "Must See's" below). This area, although over 3,500 feet above sea level, is very wet and lush. Everything outside the room each AM is covered in a thick wet dew. The sounds are those of the rain forest, with many birds singing their respective songs and communicating. "Mahalo" Joan. We miss you (and your cooking!)!
Moo's Log Cabin B&B - Kukuihaele (Waipi'o), HI - (808-775-8035) - $75 per night. This is one of our favorite all time B&B's, and we have stayed at many. Diane ("Moo") Dickey is the proprietor. I would love to own the property on which this B&B sits! It is simply magnificent. We stayed in one of the attached log cabin sections of the main house. The main house is a real log cabin, which was built on the mainland, and shipped by boat in containers to this remote and remarkably beautiful area of the Big Island. Each piece was numbered, and the whole house was reassembled in Kukuihaele! If you could see the size and complexity of this dwelling, you would clearly agree that this was a remarkable feat. It is a large and beautiful structure, which is meticulously and tastefully built. Our area was an absolute delight. It was very large and modern and had a fully equipped kitchen and dining area, a large sitting room, a full bathroom, and a comfortable bedroom. It had post and beam ceilings and an open and roomy floor plan. It was large, being the size of a one bedroom apartment. The walls had nice prints depicting Hawaiian scenes, and the sitting room had many colorful books about the Big Island and it's flowers, and reef inhabitants. Although no formal breakfast is served, this is not a problem. We found the refrigerator well stocked with fresh fruits, juices, very tasty croissants, and breakfast pastries. There was even a split bottle of wine for us! The views from this B&B is utterly spectacular. From one picture window we could see the green lush Waipi'o Valley 1,000+ feet below us, the northeast Big Island coastline, and the island of Maui in the distance across the blue Pacific. From the opposite picture window we could look at the beautiful flowing Waiulili Stream that runs along the side of the B&B, and terminates just beyond our entrance with a 35 foot waterfall! The entire streambed has been cleared and planted (by "Moo"), with beautiful flowering trees and plants, and is absolutely beautiful. The sound of the waterfall and stream are like a lullaby, and make falling asleep a peaceful and gentle experience. "Moo" is a delightful person, and we regret that we did not have more time to talk to her. This B&B will not disappoint.
The Manago Hotel - Captain Cook, HI - (808-323-2642) - $25 - $61 per night. This is an old Hawaiian style hotel of 87 rooms. It has been in continuous operation by the Manago family for almost 85 years, and is now operated by Dwight and Harold Manago, the sons of the hotel's founders. This old building is beautiful, and rich in history and has a "Hemingway-esque" - Old Havana feel. I am sure that if the walls could talk we could have heard some great stories. Although the hotel has less expensive rooms (including some with community bathrooms for only $25 per night), we opted for a traditional Japanese style room ($61 per night). It was delightful with beautiful Furo and Tatami floor and wall mats, art objects, and a mat style bed on the floor. We had a deck attached to our room that overlooked the Kona coastline from 3 stories up. The elevation here is 400 feet above sea level. The owners Dwight and Harold Manago are gracious people, and more than willing to find some time to chat with you. They run a nice hotel, at a very reasonable price. The hotel's dining room is not fancy, but the "local" food is fairly priced and tasty, and the portions are sizable. The hotel grounds have a lovely Japanese garden with an extensive collection of exotic plants, cactus, succulents and bromeliads, and a fishpond with a small school of Koi (ornamental Carp). The vegetables you see growing on the grounds will eventually make their way to the dinner table.
Things we did and can recommend - Paid
1) Sea Quest Snorkel Adventure - Kailua-Kona, HI - (808-329-7238 )- $69 per person + tip - This trip uses a large 26' Naiad (Zodiac type craft), that is powered by twin 90 hp, 4 stroke Honda engines. The boat never carries more than 6 snorkelers (we had ourselves and another couple only). It is a very private affair, with the captain attentive to your needs and wishes. Snorkel gear is included, if you do not have your own. A fresh fruit platter and juices are served on board. This is a great way to see the beautiful Kona coastline and explore its countless sea caves (most of which are accessible only by small agile boats), lava tubes, and ancient burial tombs high on the cliffs above the ocean. Your guide will enter these caves by boat (this can not be done by the tours using larger boats), so you can get a close up view. The trip leaves from Keauhou Bay Pier, and is 4 hours (if you take the AM tour). You will snorkel at two excellent locations (Place of Refuge, and the Captain Cook Monument). These are superb "user friendly" sites where the water is warm and crystal clear, and there are countless varieties of colorful marine fish, lots of friendly turtles, and coral of all sizes and shapes. Do NOT take one of the larger boats that carry as many as 125 passengers. Those trips are about $30, but the value, as far as I am concerned, is questionable. The water looks like "people soup" when these boats anchor, and as such, the fish and turtles, become more timid. Additionally the water is just plain crowded, and more people in the water means more people kicking up silt, and reducing visibility. Additionally, it scares the hell out of the fish and turtles, who do what most living things do when scared - they hide! Didn't you come her to get away from crowds? Our captain XXXX XXX was great. He is extremely knowledgeable of the area, and managed to position the boat in the middle of a pod of 60+ Spinner Dolphin. The were everywhere! What a great experience. A thousand Mahalos to you XXX for making this trip a very memorable experience.
Tip - Always take the AM trip if possible. It is only $17 more per person. (Here's why:
a) The seas are very calm at this time of day.
b) The AM tour is 1 hour longer than the afternoon trip.
c) Most of the larger boats leave later in the day, and as such, you will see only a few small boats anchored at the snorkel sites. The water is still very clear, and there will be only a few other snorkelers on the reef. As such the marine life, particularly the turtles (there were so many!!) are very friendly, and allow you to approach within inches. It is an awesome experience.
d) Your exposure to the sun is lower than during the afternoon. Use plenty of sunscreen in Hawaii. The sun can really burn you.
Another Tip - Go to the web site www.seaquesthawaii.com/offer.html and print off the coupon. It will save you $15 per couple.
2) Tropical Helicopters - Hilo, HI - (808-961-6810) - Helicopter flight over the Kilauea Volcano and Rainbow Falls - $158 per person + tip. Although not inexpensive, the experience justifies the cost. This is a 60 minute flight, and the views of the volcano are remarkable. You have never seen or even imagined anything like this! The flight itself (our first in a "chopper"), was a great experience unto itself. We had just spent 3 days hiking in the Volcanoes National Park, and to see Kilauha from the air put the massiveness of the volcano and it's destructive power into perspective. We were able to see the tops of utility poles covered by a flow in the late 80's that buried over 180 homes and resurfaced 7 1/2 miles of highway! Seeing flowing lava is a hit or miss situation, and can not be predicted. The volcano has its own moods. Although Kilauea is the world's most active volcano, and has been smoking, steaming, belching and flowing lava continuously for 17 years, it can be anything from a very docile dribble to absolutely epic in it's display. The night before our flight while in Volcanoes National Park itself, we had hiked to within 5 miles of a very active flow, and saw great fiery red lava flows and occasional orange flashes as the 2,200 degree flowing lava torched trees in it's path. By the time of our flight the volcano had "crusted over" leaving only minimal lava flows to view, but allowing clear viewing of numerous "skylights". These are large holes in the earth where molten red lava is flowing below, and they are spectacular to see from the air. Although we were never less than 500 feet above the active area, it quickly became very hot in the cockpit indicating that the 2,200 degree activity below is serious business. The next stop was the Pu`u`O`o Vent. This is an enormous volcanic shaft spewing a column of vapors and steam hundreds of feet into the air. The fumes can be toxic and as such our pilot took great care to never fly downwind of, or directly above the vent. The vent is described by some as the "heartbeat" of the active volcano. Its size and power are almost frightening, and looking at it from the air quickly made us aware of how much power and force are being vented below by Kilauea. The final stop is a "fly-by" of Rainbow Falls. This is a beautiful multi-strand and multi-level waterfalls near the Hilo area. Although there was no "rainbow" when we flew over, it is a beautiful waterfalls in every imaginable way, and is a symbol of the Big Island at it's finest. My only regret is that helicopters are not allowed to fly closer to this falls (as there are homes nearby). It is both a safety precaution and a courtesy to the area's residents. We all wore headsets and could communicate clearly with our pilot Joyce, as well as each other throughout the flight. The craft used on our flight was a Bell Ranger and although it can take 5 passengers, on this flight there were just us and one other passenger. As such, everyone had a window seat and great views. I was fortunate to have the co-pilot seat and since the entire front of the helicopter is clear plexiglass, my view was unbeatable! Additionally there are sliding windows that can be opened from all seats for photos, but it is unsafe to put anything outside the window (including a camera with a long lens barrel), as the tail rotor creates tremendous turbulence and suction. As such, getting great photo's was not really practical.
Tips:
a) Take an AM Flight if possible. You will generally encounter less turbulence in the AM
b) Never take a flight leaving from the Kona side of the island. You are a long ways from the volcano here, and a great deal of your 60 minutes is "burned" getting to, and returning from where the action is.
3) Waippi'o Na'alapa Trail Rides - Honokaa, HI - (808-775-0419) Horseback Riding in the Waipi'o Valley ("Valley of The Kings") - $75 per person + tip. The Waipi'o Valley is on of the most beautiful places in all of Hawaii. It is about 1,600 foot waterfalls, lush green vegetation, wild coffee, fruit and nut trees, sheer cliffs, rivers, streams, and isolated black sand beaches. You will see Taro farmers working the fields using Oxen, and many beautiful wild horses. I have heard Waipi'o Valley described in many ways, but "other worldly" best expresses this marvelous place. The best way to experience it (in our opinion), is from the saddle. Nancy and I haven't ridden since we were children. This did not matter as the horses are allocated according to your riding experience. I rode Cherokee while Nancy rode Mr. Ed. Both were docile but responsive, and certainly "knew the drill". They have, I am sure, traversed this route many many times. Our "wranglers" Jay and Alden were great. They were both very attentive, and safety conscious, and made sure everyone felt comfortable and had a good time. The tour lasts about 2 hours, and includes a basic riding and safety orientation. Add an additional 30 minutes to descend to the valley floor and return. They pick you up in the Town of Kukuihaele, and bring you down from elevation 1,600 feet to the valley floor in a 4 wheel drive van. We really enjoyed this experience and can highly recommend it.
4) Hawaii Forest and Trail - Kailua-Kona, HI - (800-464-1993) - Mauna Kea Summit and Stars Adventure - $140 per person + tip. They take a maximum of 10 people making this a very personal and intimate tour. This is your opportunity to go to the top of the highest mountain in all of Hawaii. Mauna Kea crests above the clouds at 13,796 feet above sea level. As with all the Hawaiian Islands, it is a (once active) volcano. If you are to measure Mauna Kea from it's base (most of which is below the sea), it becomes the tallest and largest mountain on Earth ! Yes, larger and taller than Mt. Everest. It's peak is often covered in snow, and yes, people do ski and snowboard here. This is a great adventure, and well worth the cost. With 325 perfectly clear nights at it's summit, Mauna Kea is the home to 23 of the world's most advanced and sophisticated optical and radio telescopes, representing the most technologically advanced nations of the world.
It is universally agreed to by all astronomers and scientists to be the world's greatest astronomical complex.
It is a surreal landscape filled with geologic wonders, archeological sites, and rare creatures that have evolved to adapt to the harsh alpine conditions.
You will be picked up by a large comfortable 4 wheel drive van at one of several convenient locations at between 12:00 AND 2:00 PM (depending upon pickup location), and return at around 11:30 PM. A narrative will be provided by your guide (ours was Jean, and she really knew her stuff!), and you are welcome to ask questions. The drive to "base camp" at 9,000 feet will take about 1 1/2 hours. The road is steep and you traverse many "switchbacks". This is the location of the visitor's center. There are bathrooms here, a place to buy water and snacks, and a small gift shop. There is a small but comprehensive museum, where one can get a feel for the history of Mauna Kea and the technology atop the mountain. About 45 minutes are spent here allowing your body to "acclimate" to the 9,000 foot altitude. The next stop is at 10,000 feet where a picnic dinner is served at a beautiful little spot. From this height you can view all of the Big Island as you eat. The meal is "Japanese style", and is reasonably tasty. You will stay at 10,000 feet for about 45 minutes, allowing your body to further acclimate to the altitude. From here it's about 1 hour to the summit. The roads are in reasonably good condition considering the forces of nature they endure day in and day out (sun, snow winds, etc.), but this is strictly a 4 wheel drive road. Any other approach would be crazy (and maybe illegal). The weather between here and the top can be intensely severe with winds of 100+ MPH (road signs are on hinged poles!), and temperatures of minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit have been recorded. Being caught up here in severe weather would undoubtedly result in death. We were provided with VERY HEAVY hooded parkas, as once the sun sets, the temperature drops rapidly. You will arrive at the summit (after traversing endless switchbacks) in about 60 minutes. It is 1/2 hour before sunset. You will be treated to the sun setting "above" the clouds". This is a unique experience, and can not be described. You "had to be there". You stay here until 30 minutes after sunset. We must legally be off the summit by this time, as even the slightest "light pollution" can interfere with the telescopes which "go to work" now. As such, you will return to the 9,000 foot level. Here hot drinks are served and a telescope is set up. The sky is now filled with thousands of stars. Only once our life have we been treated to a more densely star filled sky, and that was in Morocco in the Sahara desert, many miles from any lights. I suspect that the top of Mauna Kea was at least that good on this particular night, but light from the visitor center, as well as headlights of autos coming up the mountain, prevented our eyes from reaching their full night vision potential. None the less, the sky was filled with countless stars. Through the 11" mirror telescope that is now set up, stars, planets (and their moons), constellations, and the Earth's moon are clearly visible. The telescope remains in use for about 1 1/2 hours while we had our "Space Party". Our guide was quickly able to find any of the heavenly bodies, and had a great deal of information on each. Jean was most knowledgeable, and provided a wonderful narrative on each sighting. There was plenty of tea and hot chocolate and wonderful chocolate macadamia nut cookies, and those heavy warm parka's were appreciated by all.
This is a remarkable adventure, a five * plus experience, and well worth the time and money. Just do it!
Things we did and can recommend - No Charge
Snorkeling
The Big Island is the youngest of the Hawaiian Island. As such, it is still mostly black lava and black sand. This translates into crystal clear, silt free water. Being the most remote Island archipelago on earth has allowed for the evolution of many unique plants and animal species, both above and below the water. The reefs of the Big Island are all near shore, and absolutely spectacular! The variety and density of marine life is utterly astounding. These waters are home to over 600 species of tropical fish, and coral of every size, shape, and color. Large sea turtles are everywhere, and seeing 10 or 12 at a time is not uncommon. They get so close you can touch them (it is however unlawful to do so). There are scores of great places to snorkel right off shore, where the water is warm, clear, calm, and free of current. We will mention only a few here that we personally snorkeled at. A search of the Internet will reveal dozens more. Most will be on the Kona (west) coast, as the water here is generally flat and calm. There are many more on the opposite coast, but can often only be accessed during periods of calm seas, which is not all that often. Here are a few easy to access and beautiful snorkeling sites.
Kealakekua Bay and Captain Cook Monument - Captain Cook, HI - South Kona Area - These are great places to get started. The beach here is truly spectacular. It is black sand in its entirely Above you the cliffs rise 1,200 feet where you can make out the outlines of fruit farms and coffee plantations. The water in the bay is clear and warm, and there is little or no wave activity or currents. Dolphin pods and turtles frequent this area with regularity.
The southern end of the bay is easily accessed by auto. You can park a few feet from the sea wall, walk 20 feet to the beach and jump in. The best snorkeling will be along the protruding rocks on your left hand side. The fish here have seen countless snorkelers, and as such have no fear of you. You will see many varieties of Angelfish, Damsels, Tangs, Parrotfish, Wrasses, Trumpetfish, Triggerfish, and Butterflyfish, as well as Green and Spotted Moray Eels. The coral here is in nice shape (plentiful and colorful) as well. Turtles are often seen here, but not in the numbers you will invariably see at Place of Refuge. Kealakekua Bay is home to large schools of Spinner Dolphins which are seen here in the mornings on a regular basis.
Tip -There are 2 small shack type shops on the right side of the street at the southern end of Kealakekua Bay. DO NOT MISS THESE. Here you will find some of the finest and most beautiful hand made "Native Hawaiian" goods on the island. There are many fine carvings, musical instruments, baskets, jewelry made from native seeds and coconut shell, and items of clothing sold here (at very reasonable prices). If you are looking for unique native goods to bring back, this is THE PLACE. Despite traveling around the entire Big Island, we found no place with finer goods than here. Take a few minutes to chat with the woman proprietors. They are both native Hawaiians, very intelligent, interesting and personable, and master crafts people. They are proudly carrying on the traditional crafts of the generations of Hawaiians that came before them.
The Northern end of the bay is where you will fine the site known as the Captain Cook Monument. This is perhaps the finest snorkeling in the entire state. This site is very difficult to access on foot without a long hike. As such, there are three alternative methods by which to reach the site.
The first is to swim. Although people do this, I can not recommend this approach. It is a 1.1 mile swim, and although the water is warm and clear, to me it seems like a long round trip.
The second is to take one of the many charter boats which will take you here for the morning or afternoon. Most leave out of Kailua-Kona, and carry anywhere from 6 to as many as 125 passengers. Even though this is a large site, I suggest taking a smaller 6 passenger tour as we did. See Sea Quest Snorkel Adventure described above.
The third, and perhaps the best approach is to rent a Kayak, and paddle across the bay to the site. This will give you the opportunity to interact with the dolphins, should they decide to visit you (which is common). Additionally, the kayak approach allows you to go up on shore at the monument and explore the many interesting things on land there. There are many places nearby to rent kayaks. A single for a full day will rent for between $25 - $30, and a double will run around $40. A full day of snorkeling and hiking at this site is probably the way to fly.
HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
This is the primary "must do" on the the Big Island. Simply stated "you have never seen anything like this in your life!!
This is an exceptionally managed parks. Stop at the Visitor Center on your first visit. Here you can get free maps of the hiking trails, information from park rangers, and an update on lava flow conditions.
Kilauea Volcano is THE MOST ACTIVE VOLCANO ON PLANET EARTH, and has been putting on a Lava show daily since 19XX. At times the flows are utterly spectacular and at other times less so. Seeing an active lava flow none the less is an unforgettable experience. The park itself is comprehensive, and viewing active lava flows is only one of many things worth doing here. We spent 3 days here and saw a great deal and did several of the more interesting hikes. I will describe each below.
Hikes
1) Kileaua Iki - If you are going to only one hike, this is the one to do. Total hiking distance - X.X miles. You will desend XXX feet through switchbacks of lush green rainforests to the floor of the volcano. The sounds of birds abound, and giant ferns filter the sunlight out. A plethora of strange plants grow boundlessly. The air is humid and the earth and foliage are wet. When you arrive on the volcano floor you are startled by it's stark, black, lifeless appearance. With the exception of an occasional small plant growing in the crevases on the lava, there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING growing here, yet the earth you stand on is very much alive! In XXXX this volcano blew and bubbled itself 300 feet closer to the top of the cinder cone. It is still cooling from that episode, and this is evidenced by the countless hissing steam vents both small and large that abound. These vents are the byproduct of the the 300 vertical feet of cooling lava beneath your feet. Do not get too close to these vents. You will be badly scalded. This is serious stuff! You cross the volcano floor on foot (about 1.5 miles), and see many strange colored fissures, mounds and rubble fields of all sizes. In certain areas the sulfer is the steam has left green stains on the earth. You continue to be amazed by what you see, and to some small degree a little frightened. After all, it feels like you are walking on some lifeless planet, yet the smoke, hissing and sulpher smell make it clear that this is anything but the case. At the end of the crater you will now ascend upwards back to the top of the cinder cone, again along switchbacks in the rain forest. The contrast between the lush rain forest and the stark barren volcano floor is startling. This is an absolutely awesome hike requiring no technical skills. A folding walking stick is suggested, but not a requirement.
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