The video instructions, written
instructions and sales pitches are at
For me, the first issue was right there in the disclaimer section:
Talk about unrealistic marketing hype. What normal off-road
enthusiast would think of this??? Luckily, I
was able to eventually wait for the right conditions to satisfy that requirement...
Also, FYI, The USA rep has hints and tips at:
I know that at least Expedition
Exports is a dealer within our Pinzgauer enclave that carries Staun
products, if you are looking to "buy local."
I'll start with what made the Staun Beadlock
installation such a challenge.
My fundamental installation challenge:
am using Interco Trxus tires. I have them on my Pinzgauer 710, and
I have been very happy with the performance.
During the first beadlock install, I was working outside with the
temperatures around 35 degrees Fahrenheit. The tires have thick
stiff sidewalls, and I'm sure the temperature makes then even stiffer.
After mounting (but not seating) the bottom bead, I had a very difficult time working in
the gap between the tire and the rim (Less than three fricking inches
between the beads? Hello?? I am a fat-assed, ham-handed
American. Give me a break!).
When I would lift the upper bead of the tire
sufficiently to get my hand inside, the bottom bead would be sealed up by the
top of the drop-center. The challenge was making enough space to work
while having access to the drop center of the rim, or having four
fingers amputated to facilitate the project. With wide tires
and wide rims, the 3-4 inches required to fit a hand in there would
no big deal. But not with these tires and rims. Most of the installation time was spent trying to
cobble together some way to create space to work.
was removing the Mayola tire from the rim. Mayola is a Swiss made
tire used on the Pinzgauers by the Swiss military. The tire
is normally mounted with a tube and intensely disliked by the USA
Pinzgauer community. I decided that it would be a good
life skill to able to mount and dismount a tire with tire irons.
I purchased a couple of tire irons from
Happily they were
quite inexpensive. Unhappily I bent one dismounting the first tire. So
much for trusting them in the field.
Virgin vs. bent on the first use...
led me to a company called Ken Tools. I purchased their model
35453 4-piece Serpent Tire Changing Set and a separate 34645 tire iron.
There is a pretty good instructional sales pitch on YouTube
Tangentially, There are also some interesting videos of setting a tire bead using
(Here) which I am not in a hurry to try. My experience using
the Ken Tools was not quite as slick as the promo video, and not as
dramatic as the flammable gasses, but it was a heck
of a lot better than the Harbor Freight tire irons.
one was drilling a hole in the same arc as the factory valve stem for
the inner tube stem. Staun suggests drilling this hole near the
center line of the rim (center as in between the outside of the rim and
the inside of the rim) 6" to 8" to either side of the valve stem.
But placing the hole there with the Pinzgauer rim would put the inner
tube stem in possible contact with the brake drum. Even if the
stem did not interfere with the brake drum, it would be easy to damage
it while installing or removing the wheel. Plus the wheel would
have to be removed to check or change the pressure in the beadlock tube.
I checked with the Staun USA rep and with the Real 4x4 Pinzgauer message
board (Thanks Prof!!!). Both confirmed that the same arc as the
valve stem would be a good location to drill
the hole. I happened to have a stepped drill bit in the proper
size, shown here.
After drilling the hole, I used a countersink bit to debur the hole
and create a bevel for the O-rings. I asked the Staun rep why the
holes should be 6-8" apart rather than 180 degrees apart. He
explained that installing the top bead on a tire machine would cause
some damage if it passes over either the inner tube stem or the air
channel. When they are mounted this close together the tire
machine can do its thing without problems.
The finished hole in the rim for the inner tube stem. I beveled
the edges a bit with a wood screw countersink tool.
for the sake of curiosity, I put the tube and air channel on the rim.
Interesting, photogenic, but not much learned.
I had the drilling done, I cleaned up the cutting oil and sandblasted
and painted it gloss black.
problem discussed on the Staun site is how some tires (including and/or particularly
Interco) have very wide beads. On rims that have a bump to hold
help hold the bead in place, the inner edge of the tire bead can end up
chafing the beadlock inner tube. The Pinzgauer rim does not have
the retaining bump, but I went ahead and trimmed the sharp edge of the
After all was said and done, I noticed some bubbles along the rim after
I pressurized the tire. It is probably a result of not cleaning
all of the baby powder from the bead of the rim before inflating.
Either way, my current opinion is that trimming the tire as shown won't
help and might hurt with stock Pinz rims. So the rest of the tires
will be installed uncircumcised.
a bead lubricant I used this Dr. Bronner's castile soap with hemp and
lavender. I figured the hemp oil would get me points with
the environmentalists, and the lavender would appeal to the Pinzgauers'
more feminine side. I can sure use some points from both groups. I mixed
it with some water and rubbed it onto the
tire bead and the rim. Using my new Ken-Tools implements made
installing the first bead easy. I found out afterwards the rep
recommends Windex or equivalent. It shows bubbles but does not
leave a lubricating residue, reducing the chance of tire slippage under
Lubricating the lower bead with the soap solution.
conversation with the Staun rep lead me to believe that using lots of
powder is one of the secrets of success. I bought some talc baby
powder to augment the packet of powdered chalk that comes with the
beadlock. Here is the inner tube after a bit of powdering.
The instructions say to put the tag opposite from the valve stem.
The tag is located where the webbing is doubled over. I assume the idea is to
even out the weight.
Then the fun began! The next step is to tuck the beadlock cover
into place, push the inner tube inside, then tuck in the other (top) bead of
the beadlock. Sounds simple...but when I lifted the top bead of
the tire to get my hand inside, the lower bead would effectively seal
off the workspace. I tried a number of tricks to get some room to
work. A scrap of 2x4 helped somewhat.
I found that putting the tire on a bucket also helped. Putting
the tire on blocks as the instructions suggest was not helpful at all.
This way gravity pulled down the lower bead at least a few millimeters
The demounting iron was helpful with prying the top bead up just enough
to work inside. Almost just enough...damn five-fingered hands!
When I was trying to fit the top bead of the beadlock liner, I couldn't
get the far side of the beadlock to stay in the drop-center of the rim.
I had the idea of using a can of gasket sealer to pin the beadlock to
the bottom of the tire. This actually worked pretty well, I was
able to get the entire beadlock inside the rim.
problem - afterwards, I didn't have enough hands to pry up the tire bead and
reach in to remove the container. I finally called my 12 year-old
daughter to help. Now, here I am covered with baby powder and
smelling like lavender, sweating, cussing and trying to contort one hand into the
tire while using the other to work the lever. My daughter usually
has some snide remark, but this time she stood for a moment and quietly took
in the scene. I explained that I wanted her to reach into the tire
to retrieve the can. She nodded, still quietly, helped me, then
immediately disappeared back to the house shaking her head. No
doubt she was thanking her lucky stars that I was not doing all of this
in public. MUCH worse for me than a snide remark.
next attempt, I am planning to bend up some scraps of flat stock to use
as jigs to hold the lower bead at the lower edge of the drop center
channel, then pry the top bead up to work in luxury. You will have
to wait until after I reassemble the truck to find out if this scheme
Here the air channel has been installed, fitted between the beadlock
casing and the tire. I found that removing the valve stem and
inserting a thread chaser as a holder was invaluable for keeping the air
channel in place without damage whilst wrestling the rest of the
The Ken-Tools tools were excellent. I was able to fairly easily
install the top bead of the tire. Standing on the part of the tire
that is already mounted to push it into the drop center makes the process considerably easier.
Done! I hope it is done...if there is a long-term slow leak,
I will take it apart again to clean the bead surfaces to minimize the
I think for the next tires I may cut some lengths of rebar to use for
spacers, and create hooks to hold the
tire beads further apart during the installation of the beadlock.
Unless someone suggests a better idea!