Info
Objective: EXTREMELY low-maintenance plant tank
Tank Size: 58 G (219 L) Oceanic
Original Tank Startup: March 29, 2002
Filtration Equipment: Eheim 2026 canister
CO2 Setup: Pressurized CO2 tank, Eheim diffuser (with needle
valve controlling .5 to 1 b/s flow rate from regulated ~13 psi output pressure)
Lighting: Two All-Glass 110 W compact fluorescent lights; ~12 hour photoperiod
Substrate: 2-to-3 mm round gravel/Seachem Flourite mix
Additives: Seachem fertilizers/micronutrients (Flourish, Potassium,
Iron, Trace, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Tabs), NaHCO3, Dolomite, Jobe's Spikes
(Palm/Fern)
Rough Water Chemistry Targets (used to be):
- pH: ~ 6.8
- KH: ~ 4.0 dH
- GH: ~ 6.0 dH
- Chelated Iron: 0.25 to 0.75 mg/l
- Nitrate: < 5 mg/l
- Phosphorus: < 0.25 mg/l
- Temp: ~ 78.6 deg F
Rough Water Chemistry Targets (now):
Current Plants: Cryptocoryne wendtii, Cryptocoryne walkeri, Cryptocoryne
x willisii, Cryptocoryne x willisii lucens, Microsorium pteropus,
and Nymphaea mexicana
(I've tried a
fair number of plants to get here!)
Animals: Otocinclus affinis, Corydoras adolfoi,
Corydoras panda, Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi, Hemigrammus ulreyi, Paracheirodon
axelrodi, Gasteropelecus sternicla, Palaemon pantanal,
Palaemon scarletti, and Neritina reclivata
Cooling
Cooling the aquarium during the summer is a more real temperature
stability concern than heating during the winter--even in relatively mild
Western Washington. Here are CHEAP and EASY modifications to slow summer heating:
- Reduce water level.
- Mount light fixtures (and canopy) on two 1/2-inch rails.
- Remove canopy lid.
- Position a small fan to blow air directly over lights
and aquarium hood. Never use this setup with
an open-top aquarium. Always connect electrical equipment used with an aquarium
through a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).
These steps take several degrees F off the high on moderately warm days
and up to 5-plus degrees F off on the warmest days. This is not as effective
as a chiller, but a it's much cheaper. Together, these measures do enough to
make a difference.
Algae Control
These action worked for me:
- Added Olive Snails (Neritina reclivata) from Arizona
Aquatic Gardens. These are truly amazing. They also do not appear to reproduce
at all. They lay lots of eggs, but none appear to be fertile. Could be they
need a brackish environment. Some originally landed with barnacles attached
(which eventually all fell off). These appear to last about a year in fresh
water.
- Reduced heat buildup during summer per "Cooling" strategy above.
- Kept a regular maintenance schedule.
- Afterdark airstone. Apparently the CO2 buildup that
occurs when the "p.m. airstone" is not running causes a runaway
algae bloom (due to my constant CO2 input approach). I did not know this until
my old air stone died and I went a couple of weeks without driving air into
the tank Whoa. That was a mistake. I cleaned up the big algae mess aftermath,
put in a new airstone, and voila...no more algae problem.
Since getting rid of the Anubias and Rotala plants, reducing fertilizers, and allowing fish reduction by attrition, algae growth has been negligible (or at least easily cleaned out quarterly).
Maintenance Schedule
This plant tank is getting to have a manageable routine:
- As needed a few times a week (5 minutes)
- Monthly (1 hour)
- Remove weak or dead leaves, other minor cleanup, add some fresh water
- Used to dig up, cut down, and replant Rotala indica (link to old one-month stem plant cycle page); that took a couple of hours every time...all gone now.
- Quarterly (alternate weekends; a couple hours to clean the tank and a couple hours to cleanout filter)
- Clean tank:
- Scrub or scrape side and front tank walls
- Scrub Eheim CO2 diffuser
- Change 20-to-30 percent of the water
- Cleanout of filter:
- Rinse out Eheim filter and replace EHFISYNTH fine filter pad
- Replenish NaHCO3 and Dolomite
- Add Flourish Tabs
- Semi-annually (1 hour including travel time)
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Sun Dec 03 19:55:05 2006