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DAD’S DIARY
By: R R (Bob) Hughes, October, 1992
Revised, September, 2001
FOREWORD
Some punctuation has been added but the spelling is his. Due to the dimness and faded condition of the original writing, in lead pencil, some trouble was experienced in correctly deciphering a few words. The pocket sized notebooks in which he wrote are faded and worn but still in good condition considering that they were carried on horseback, freight train, packhorse, etc. Also, they were written 86 or 87 years ago — on the bottom of a frying pan! The first booklet of the trip diary begins with the Oct 31st entry. He did not enter the year. However, the year is established as being 1904 through a calendar date comparison check and through references to a presidential election (1904) entered in the diary itself. Many thanks to daughter in law, Linda, who (in 1992) typed this manuscript into her computer. SPECIAL NOTE RE AGE AND DATE OF BIRTH Some earlier data/records showed Dad's birthday and year as May 15th, 1885. This has to be an error since he was 21 years old in 1905 according to his own diary entry on Monday, May 15, 1905. The correct date of birth is May 15th, 1884.
The following transcriptions were copied from diaries and records, consisting of two small notebooks, a small black journal, and a loose leaf manuscript (handwritten) left by our Dad (Thomas S Hughes). The diaries and records recorded activities for intermittent periods in his life beginning in 1903 up until the middle of July, 1906. The two small notebooks are a handwritten diary of his trip to California and Arizona with his friend, Army Adams.
Diary of Thomas S. Hughes
Trip to California and Arizona
(From October 31, 1904 to early 1906)
PREFACE
DIARY (Notebook 1)
With pencil in hand and the bottom of a frying pan for a writing desk, I now commence a correct and truthful diarrhea1of my travels hoping that it will be handed down from generation to generation and that all will derive benefit there of.My very dear friend Army Adam's and myself, having so arranged our business and so disposed of our running capital that we might leave it for awhile, decide that it has fallen upon us to open up new territories for the extension of the common industry which will result in a great benefit to the whole world in general.
After due deliberation, we, for various reasons decide to employ a pack train as our means of conveyance, knowing full well that the discomforts attached to such a mode of travel and especially in the winter months.
With the strictest possible regard for the veracity of each statement, I will now give each days events. I may add that for reasons best known to ourselves we decided to take a very limited amount of money, resolved to get through as much as possible on our own resources.
(1) Oct. 31 We stayed up all night to pack our horses, all bronchos or outlaws. Leave home 4 a.m. Go about three miles when Nellies pack slips. All kinds of fun at once. Get off to adjust packs and change saddle horses, Annie and Red stand. Nellie gets scared and bucks into them, and by the moonlight we can see them in the distance, going for the hills. By record breaking sprinting they are finally caught and we again get on our way. About noon Aunt Annie develops a tendency to lean back very gently on the halter so we put her pack on Red and I ride her. This change suits me very much as Red has been trying to buck all morning. No breakfast or dinner, we have great anticipation for supper. Camp at Wolf Creek. Late and windy. Can't cook so we content ourselves with the "anticipations". Busy day! Nov 1st Nov. 2nd Arise 6:30 Go on to Registry Station in Park. Here I learn some more things. As a consequence I am carrying my six shooter with cylinder tied to outside. Camp at same place that Army camped a year ago. Good feed. Good supper. Make gun holster, may have sworn a little. Forgot to say that on 1st days ride, while riding along on Aunt Annie, Army asks me what time it is. Watch in hand, I compare time with him, when all at once, in some unaccountable manner, find myself sitting astride a barb wire fence and find Army amidst a bunch of bucking and kicking horses. Get things straightened out, no damage done except a tear in wire where it met the posterior of my anatomy. Mixup unexplainable, except that Nellie pulled my saddle over this causing Annie to buck into the packhorse. Nov 3 We are camped close to upper Geyser Basin. Good feed and fine camp on account of Army knowing Park so well. Seeing things all day, mostly geysers, but an elk track interests me more than all the geysers in the Park. Won't get to see best part of the Park as we haven't time. Just baked a batch of punk in two skillets for dutch oven got it a beautiful brown. No trouble with horses today. Red getting quite civilized, have finally succeeded in getting him tired. Nellie doing fine but had sore back. Army bot a halter and five biscuits today for ten cents. Both of us developing an extraordinary amount of "gall". Nov. 4 Verily, I believe a man would be justified in losing his temper at such a beast. While crossing a small creek tonight, Nellie gets upset and to save her from drowning, Army, in trying to cut a rope off her neck, nearly cuts her head off with a butcher knife. Takes about forty stitches to close it. Find camp close to Shoshone Lake. Good feed but horses are losing every day. Fine weather, like summer, went without coat all day. Some snow on top of Continental Divide but none here. For future benefit, will go back to Nov 1st. Saw an attorneys sign on a ranch gate. "Frank McNullet, Attorney at Law, Divorces procured on the quiet". Nov. 5 Lost the heel of my boot the other day. Just now put on a high French heel which I found on a slipper at one of the lunch stations. Makes a good heel for a riding boot. Nov. 6 Camped close to Snake River, good feed and fine camp. All kinds of elk signs near. Got out of Park today so intend to hunt tomorrow. Made a main spring for my gun out of a case knife and tied the stock on with buckskin. Might be more dangerous than I look. Looking like snow today. Nov. 7 We are about 25 miles from Jackson Lake, so are in the famous Jackson Hole country. Nellie loose tonight and can't get her. Weather cleared up again. Nov 8. Just put an extension on skillet handles. Afraid our supply of cuss words would run out. Boiled elk heart with dumplings tonight. Bully! Looked like snow again today but is clear tonight. Army bet me a corn cob pipe and a nickels worth of tobacco that it would snow before tomorrow night. Nov. 9 Saw bunch of elk today, certainly is great country for them. Signs as plentiful as cattle signs at home. Windy and disagreeable tonight, trying to scare up a storm. Won the pipe but couldn't extend time any on the bet. This book is getting all fired dirty, I notice, but can't wonder at it as the writer doesn't look like any newly plucked bunch of daisies. Wonder who is president?2 (2)
Nov 10 The weather has cleared up again and couldn't be better. If it were snowing we would indeed be out of luck. Nov. 11 Finally got out of our trap by crossing a couple of Hell holes and followed an elks trail to the lake. Bum camp. Lots of poor feed and a lake within a hundred yards but no water. The only redeeming feature is the view. We are camped at the foot of the Teton Mountains and the three Grand Tetons seem to rise straight out of the lake. It is a beautiful sight but I am too damned thirsty to enjoy it. Army and I quit swearing today, we got ashamed of ourselves. Nov. 12 Fine camp tonight, anyway, we appreciate it after being in that modern Hell yesterday. Water has kind of yellow taste, but is wet and awfully cold. Only came about 12 miles today. Horses getting awfully tender footed and have had a hard rocky road today following a lake. Nellie seems a little sick tonight or else she is just mad. We, Army and I, were both a little discouraged today, we are afraid this fine weather will end before we can get across Teton Pass. A big snow would shut us in. Tonight after eating about 15 lb. of elk steak, things look brighter. Weather is certainly extra-ordinary. Hell of a game law they have here, poor devils like us have to dodge game wardens when we only killed one elk and took all of it for food, while these folks in here go out and kill enough for all winter only taking best part. There's a grand mistake someplace. Gun license for a non-resident $50.00. Violators are rewarded by confiscating their whole outfit and 25 to 90 days imprisonment if they can't pay fine. Would look well after they got $50.00 out of us. Don't remember of ever seeing that much, besides we expect to live on that elk for a month. Bought sugar and coffee at a store today. Army wanted to buy me the pipe I won but thought I wouldn't commence again. Both of us swore a couple of times today but will do better tomorrow. Don't know who the president is yet!, was afraid to ask today, don't want to show our ignorance. They probably didn't know in here anyway as it's about 150 miles to railroad. Saw a woman today. Blamed thing came tearing along on a pinto horse and actually smiled or grinned at us. Can't imagine the reason. She had spurs on bigger than mine, and a great big sombrero hat. Looked wild and wooly to me. Nov. 13 Gee Whiz! its 1:30 P.M. (he must mean A. M.) and not in bed yet. Camped close to a cow punchers cabin and have been visiting with him. Traded my six-shooter to him for a 40-65 caliber rifle, and my old rifle barrel, for that's all there was left of it, for a hunting knife and a pair of elk teeth. Asked the cow puncher who was president and he didn't know and "didn't care a damn". Nov. 14 About halfway up Teton Pass tonight. Altitude of pass is about 8400. On a tree above my head there is the names of two young couples and a married woman who formed a park party last year from Idaho Falls. As I look at the names I can imagine tongue sucking and biting of ears (on the ) ground among these pine needles. Gee! The weather is still good but can't stay that way much longer. Won't quit snowing when it commences here. The people pile their wood on end against trees, etc. so they can find it in the snow. I killed a sage hen with my new gun today. Shoots fine. Nov 15 Discovered this morning that I lost my cartridge belt full of shells yesterday. That means I am out of ammunition for my gun. Crossed the pass alright but weather looks unfavorable, cloudy and disagreeable this morning. Camped tonight in Victor. Horses in a livery stable and we are sleeping in a hay loft. Trying to snow tonight. Accommodating cuss runs the barn. Feeds our horses all night for 75c. Hay is cheap here, $3.20 a ton, good alfalfa and timothy. Nov 16 Weather not quite so bad this morning, seems to clear up every night and cloud over every day. Repaid our accommodating friend by beating him on a horse trade, his own fault though, he jumped me for a trade. Traded him Annie for a little spotted white mare. Has seen better days but you can actually lead her, and she has a more pleasant disposition which will be a saving of cuss words. Stiff in three legs, but I could have traded Annie for a saw horse if I had the chance. Camped tonight on a fellows ranch on Swan Valley and have horses turned loose in his pasture. Gave him a piece of elk meat about as big as your fist and, before he got over expressing his gratitude, asked him what the pasture bill would be. It would look bad to charge much with a piece of elk meat in your hand so of course he said it would be nothing. Diplomatic, eh, he'll be sorry of it before morning. Clear again tonight and they tell us we can expect good weather until Christmas. By that time, with the good Lords help, or rather Old Red's we shall be where they have good weather all the time. Forgot to say that this country is just full of pretty girls. Have a notion stay here. We found out today who was pres. Asked a store clerk who happened to be a Republican and in his enthusiasm gave Army 5c too much change "That helps some". Nov. 17 Nellie had commenced to get a fistula so I traded her off this morning for an old saddle horse, older than I am. Didn't get much but was not trying to make a good trade, just wanted Nellie to get a good home. She will get to run in a pasture now and may get well where if we keep her she would have to keep right on going. Besides we can get more out of this old skate as he is a good saddle horse yet. Nov 18 Roaded 35 miles today. Got into Idaho Falls about 5 o'clock. Windy and dusty all day. Put the horses in a livery stable, expect to stay in town all day tomorrow. This place seems to be booming, but is about the toughest hole I ever saw. About 3000 people and growing right along. Big sugar factories close to town. Army and J.D. Smith had an oyster eating contest this evening. Nov. 19 Haven't left town yet but will leave this afternoon. Looks like we are strictly up against it. Got about $10.00 yet and 500 miles to go on it. Worst of it is, we will have to buy feed from now on and can't even do that south of here is our most direct route, as it isn't settled up very much. No respect for a poor devil here. One good thing, we have about 300 lbs. finest meat in the world so won't get very hungry for awhile. Wrote to Mabel today, didn't tell her exact circumstances. Got a haircut and shave this morning, from outside appearances am apt to be taken for some railroad magnate or at the least some wealthy cattleman, while if the truth be known, I feel like thirty about half spent. My experience of human nature is that a man should never let people know how hard up he is. Somebody said "laugh and the world laughs with you, weep and you weep alone" Whoever wrote that didn't go around with his eyes shut.. Left the city about 3 o'clock, went out of town about 8 miles, camped on an old girls' ranch. Bought hay of her. Evidently didn't look very good to her as she made us pay in advance. It's queer, the difference in people. Asked a fellow down the road where there was someone who had lots of horses, meant to strike him for a job twisting and this fellow took us for horse buyers. Ate supper with a horsethief last night and he didn't seem to think we were in the wrong kind of company. Idaho Falls full of horsethiefs and they seem to be proud of it. Nov 20 Bad luck again. Something wrong with Red this morning, could hardly get out of barn. Went within about 3 miles of Blackfoot City today, had to stop, Red couldn't go no farther. Knocks us out completely, well have to put horses in pasture for awhile. Worst country in the world to get laid over in, they never saw more than 15 cents at one time here and that belonged to some one who didn't live here. They won't give you a pleasant look without you pay in advance for it. Nov 21 Laid over today. Red still lame so we are looking for pasture for the horses, and intend taking the train out of here, leaving them for awhile. Are trying to sell some of our elk meat, may get into trouble as we don't know who we can depend on. Got to risk it though as we need the money. Hell of a country, toot hole of the world. Nov 22 Still in Blackfoot. There isn't a good pasture in whole damn country. I've been sicker than a dog all day and Army is doing all the rustling. Sold a piece of meat for a dollar and 50 lb. of grain tonight. Red still lame, don't know just what we will do yet. Hate to leave horses in this god forsaken country, for that would mean another trip in here and I've got enough of this country. Only redeeming feature is the weather, they don't expect any winter at all until Xmas. Nov 23 Am writing this by moonlight. Still in Blackfoot, intend to leave in the morning, taking the whole bunch. Red still lame but will pack him. Army sold the rest of our elk meat for $3.00 today. Have just been on a tour of inspection through a sugar factory, trying to absorb a little knowledge. Would have stayed longer but every floor walker or manager on the job got to asking us if we wanted a job, so we left. Was afraid they might use compulsory methods to put us to work. I haven't done anything that I know of to warrant such punishment, $2.40 per day and eat yourself for $1 per day. Nov 24 Left Blackfoot today. Traded Red and Fidge for a little brown mare and a mean little devil off of the Lost River Desert. Red was so lame on the stifle that he couldn't travel and Fidge had a running sore on her withers. Probably got beaten on the trade except that we can keep on traveling with these and couldn't with the others. Had a can of sardines for Thanksgiving dinner, expect to do better next year. Nov. 25 Came through Pocatello today. Bum town, everybody broke. A fellow struck Army to get something to eat. Probably took him for a millionare in disguise. Army had just exactly 50 cents in his pocket. We don't look so nearly broke as we are. Our new "pet" can kick farther than any cayuse I ever saw, and always seem to be trying to establish a new record. Nov. 26 >A typical Weary Willie came along last night. Fixed him a bed and fed him. In the visions which I have over the rest of our grub, I can see the Hon. T. S. and his side kicker A. A. and the picture looks strangely similar to our guest of last night. Nov. 27 Laid over today, intended to sell a horse or two. Forgot about it being the Holy Sabboth. Nov. 28 Left all the horses and hit the "pike" last night. Got into Ogden this morning. Nearly froze to death last night until "brakey" found us and he hauled us out, made us dig up and then put us in a better place. Told him we didn't have any money so he took a couple of old jack knives and an elk tooth. We didn't have to stretch the truth very much about not having any money as we have just $2.60 between us. Could go to work here but want to get farther south. Very pretty place. Would like to stay awhile. Nov. 29 Still in Ogden Nov. 30 Came on down to Salt Lake this afternoon. Fine place, saw more girls in one string tonight than I ever saw before. Were office girls just going from work every blamed one of them good looking. Bumming around taking in the town tonight. May stop and work here awhile.
Perhaps a deliberate misspelling of the word "diary".
Entries of Nov 9th, 12th and 13th all ask "who is president", indicating that a presidential election has just been held.)