THE
CATTLE DRIVE,
By
R R (Bob) Hughes, April, 2000
In
the settlement and growth of western beef producing states, cattle drives were
a fact of life, vital to the very survival and prosperity of most successful
ranches. Montana was no different.
<pModernization
has banished the cattle drive forever, but we can enjoy the realization that a
little bit of the old west came into family history through the participation
of some of our kin folk.
THE
DRIVE TO SUMMER RANGE, FROM THE LEWIS AND LARRY HUGHES RANCH (THE OLD
SCHOENBERGER PLACE) TO THE MAVERICK BASIN, WAS ONE OF THE LAST AUTHENTIC CATTLE
DRIVES IN THE STATE OF MONTANA.
Government grazing permits were hard to come by when
Lewis and Midge grew their ranch and herd to th point that they needed
additional pasture. Finally, in 1968, they were successful in getting a permit
to run cattle in Maverick Basin. Maverick Basin was high up in the Gravelly
Range and miles from the home ranch. Only sheep, with an attendant herder, had
previously been allowed to pasture that area. A provision of the cow permit was
that proper fences be built to control grazing to approved areas - a difficult
assignment where the work could be done only in the short Montana summer.
Fencing was finally completed in 1973, in between planting, irrigating, haying,
harvesting, and all the other attendant ranch work demanding to be done in
summer,
\
The only practical route for the cattle, from
the home ranch, was up through Fletcher Creek to the Continental Divide, on top
of the Gravelly Range, as it wends it's way southward towards Yellowstone Park
\
The first few drives were hard work. The
cattle did not want to leave home and disappeared into the brush and trees at
every opportunity. Calves were young and wild. Several were newborn and perhaps
would tire and have to be carried over part of the long, tough trail. It took
all the family big enough to ride a horse, all of the ranch cow dogs, plus a
neighbor or two, to execute those first drives successfully. In later years,
some of the wise old cows, who had been up the trail a time or two, would lead
the herd on the trail they had traveled the year before. This immeasurably
reduced the amount of work that had to be done by the dogs and horses and their
riders. Most of the bulls would be left at home; they are usually too
recalcitrant to bother with on a trail drive.
Having made the route many times on horseback
and four wheel drive pick-ups, the Hughes family knew how far they could take
the cattle each day, where the water holes were, and where the overnight camps
would be - but most of the "drive lore" had to be learned on the
trail by trial and error. The first few miles, through the brush and trees of
Fletcher Creek, would be the hardest. After breaking out on top of the range
into open country, it would be easier to keep track of and control the herd.
There would be a careful count on top to make sure none were hiding out in a
cool spot and would be left behind.
The Virginia Grade, an old stage coach route,
which went through Meadow Creek to the gold mining town of Virginia City, would
be followed up and out of the Fletcher Creek canyon. Although the stage road
had once been a well traveled route, it had been abandoned for many years. The
all important chuck wagon, a much used small travel trailer, would have to be
towed behind a four wheel drive pickup truck through the Fletcher Creek rocks
along the edge of the gulch. Alternate routes were developed in later years,
much to the approval of visiting dudes with campers, so that vehicles would not
have to take a such a beating going up Fletcher Creek.
Ready
to Go
Camp the first night would be made on top of
the hill after breaking out of the timber. There would be no water for the
cattle or horses that first night, but they would be tired enough to feed only
a little before bedding down.
Time
for a rest.
It would be an early start to water at
Crocket Lake the next morning. Cowboys had to be out at dawn to head the herd
in the right direction, keep it within the driveway boundaries (the driveway is
roughly a mile wide), and clear out any neighboring stock that might be grazing
in the driveway. Drift fence gates had to be opened to let the herd through and
then closed behind it. The thirsty animals would follow the water scent to
Crocket with little delay to feed along the way. There would be a leisurely
stop at Crocket for the herd to water and graze around for a while.
The highway from Virginia City to Ennis is a
few miles south of Crocket Lake. The herd would have to go through two gates
and cross the road. Riders would have to get ahead of the herd, stop traffic
both ways in the road, and to coax the reluctant critters to cross the asphalt.
Usually it isn't a problem as the lead cows will sniff and snort and then
tentatively step out and across the unfamiliar surface. Sometimes a stubborn
straggler makes an unwise choice and refuses to go; in which case, Larry puts
on an impromptu show for the applauding tourists, by roping and dragging it
across with his horse. It's lunch time after crossing the road, so horses,
dogs, and people, relax for an hour or so with a sandwich and a beer or coke,
while the herd rests and feeds a little along the way. The lead cows know the
next water is at Oxalata Lake, just a few miles farther on, so they string out
in that direction. The drag riders are the only ones who have much to do at
this point, as some of the animals, especially the younger calves, are becoming
tired and lag behind.
Look,
Ma, a cow drive!
Approaching from the north, the trail goes
down a steep hill to Oxalata Lake. A four wheel drive pickup can make it but
the chuck wagon and other vehicles will have to detour, back and down the
Virginia City-Ennis road, almost to Ennis. Then back up another road that leads
to Clover Meadows campground. Clover Meadows, at an elevation of around 9000
feet, will be the site for a camp lasting two or three days and nights,
providing headquarters for the remaining one day drive up to the Maverick
Basin.
Thirsty
and hungry, the herd hurries down the steep hill to get a drink and a bite to
eat.
The cow herd will not arrive at Clove Meadows
until late in the afternoon. At a noon time stop at Trail Creek, they have been
allowed to water, rest, and feed for an hour or so. It is early July and the
snow has just recently melted but already the new grass is four or five inches
high. The Forest Service Rangers have inspected conditions of the range all
over the area and have pronounced the grass here and in Maverick Basin ready
for the summer's grazing.
Wild
Country Coming Up
Usually there are a few snow banks left in
the shady spots at this elevation, and the road from Clover Meadows to Maverick
Basin may have a few drifts which have to be detoured or cleared. If possible,
a horse trailer or truck will be taken to where the cattle go through the gate
into their summer pasture. Some of the saddle horses will be taken back down to
the ranch, but a couple will be left there for use when Larry or Lewis return
to check the herd and maintain the fences.
No
wonder the dogs are panting!
The cattle drive, in the summer time, from
the ranch to the Maverick basin was a fun thing- Naomi and I joined in many
times accompanying it in our van, camper, trailer, or whatever outfit we
happened to have that year. Other friends and relatives came along on occasion.
That time of year was almost always beautiful weather, the hills green and
colorful with grass and flowers. Even though it was July, the snow had just
melted at that altitude and it was spring all over again. Many vacationers, not
as fortunate as we, were paying hundreds of dollars for Hollywood style events
staged and programmed to simulate the real thing that we were experiencing.
Those of us not responsible for the successful conclusion of the drive enjoyed
it immensely.
Those who were responsible had to be up at
dawn or earlier, catching and saddling horses in the dark, maybe missing
breakfast, riding all day long, perhaps not getting back to camp until dusk
when the cattle were ready to bed down for the night. It was long days and
short nights for them.
Jump
in there if you want a ride home.
If the road was still blocked by snow banks,
after driving the cattle a few miles on up to the summer pasture, the tired
horses would be ridden back to where they could be loaded for the return trip
to the ranch. They and the hardworking dogs were certainly entitled to a ride
home and a good rest. The herd had traveled 44 miles and climbed 4000 feet.
Dogs and horses had ran and walked many miles more than that, chasing strays,
scouting ahead and getting to camp from where the herd was bedded down.
It
will take warm clothing, fresh horses, and perserverance to get all the cattle
home in the fall.
Getting the herd home in October was another
story. Winter comes hard and early at the 9000 feet elevation in Montana. The
cattle had to rousted out from refuge in brush and trees and started down the
long trail to the ranch. Probably there was snow on the ground and a cold north
wind blowing, maybe a blizzard. Some of the cows would head for home on their
own, but always there were those that had to be hazed along to keep from
straying off and joining a neighbor's herd. It was up to the family to get their
cows home the best they could since all that help so abundant in the summer
didn't seem to be available now. Lewis and Midge were older and looking at
retirement, which meant that most of the load and responsibility fell on the
capable shoulders of Larry and Claudette.
THE FINAL DRIVE, By: Larry
Hughes
Last trip up. Creyt helped us get started on a
weekend. Then went back to work. Tracy, Claudette, and I went the rest of the
way. Had the whole country to ourselves. The permits we passed through had the
cattle in different pastures. A good trip.
At left: Larry saddles up to round up the
cattle and take them home the last time. They would never again plod up the
Continental Divide Trail to their summer pasture.
Going home that fall was a different story.
The little bay mare would have to pack me all the way home. I had injured the
back of the Big Red horse in a freak accident. We'd started the cattle a couple
of days before, then were caught in a blizzard and spent all the next day,
worrying and playing crib.
A big black bear had chased the cattle all
fall. There was wire and wire gates scattered everywhere. Saw the bear on the
way out eating on a calf. Did he kill it or was it just a carcass. I didn't
ride close enough to ask. Up on top the snow was a foot and a half deep with
drifts. Only about twenty cow and calf pair hadn't kept going and were headed
down the wrong way. Runt and I busted through a drift on two and got them
headed down to Clover Meadows. There was Claudie buried in the barrow pit with
the S-10 pickup. Panicky and scared, looking for "Her Honey", she'd
had to drive down Cottonwood and back up Warm Springs to meet me. All we had to
do was switch the tire chains from the back wheels to the front wheels and
drove right out. Tied up the horses, headed home. Big drifts with snow to the
hood of the S-10. We had to leave the road a couple times and chance missing
the boulders.
All the rest was "duck soup". Next
morning went back for the horses. Passed the drag bunch, headed out looking for
the front bunch. Rode to the Shultz cabin and went home. We could see the cows
pigging out in Buffalo Creek. Next day put the cows to Oxylotl. Claudie went
around to get me. Put out an SOS to my good buddies, Ray Easter and Tom Miller,
to help us get home; which they did.
That was the end for me, but I kept mum until
I was sure there would be enough feed in the spring.
At left: Larry and Tracy each take two horses for
the hard riding needed for the final round up and trail drive.
:
Claudette and her horse are ready for
their multiple jobs of top rider, photographer, truck driver, cook, beer
fetcher, and too many other little chores to mention. .
Tracy and her horse stop for a picture
under the Devil Tree at Devils Lane.
***********************************
EPILOGUE
It was with understanding, and a little
bit of sadness, to learn in 1996, that the cattle drive would be no more. Larry
and Claudette had been the backbone of this operation for 23 years, providing
the hard work and management skills that made it a success. Lewis and Midge got
it started, but it was up to the younger folk , as usual, to carry the load in
the background, stepping up front as the old folk faltered. Times had changed;
under smart management the ranch has progressed to the point where choices could
be made that are not as demanding, and would certainly make life much easier.
\
Thanks to the Lewis and Larry Hughes
families; driving their cattle to the summer range through the spectacular
scenery of Montana's Continental Divide, was a realistic little bit of the old
west that lasted long enough for a very fortunate few of us to experience.
I hope the bears and wolves enjoy Maverick
Basin as much as we did.
***********************************
Click On the Link For Hughes Family Genealogy from 1698
to the present:
http://www.toysrbob.com/genealogy.html