January 3, 2013

I got everything back together and started the motor on December 22. I had an exhaust leak because I re-used a steel gasket between the turbo and header pipe. The new gasket I got from Jeg's was too thick for my liking. I tightened down the new hardware and it helped a bit but it is not 100%. The other issue I have is the oil return line. My inner CV boot is about 1/8 of an inch from the oil return line fitting at the block. When I lower the car onto the ground, the clamp on the fitting is touching the CV boot. I have a solution which is to weld a bung into the oil pan and have the oil return line go around the axle and to the pan. Here are the parts below (minus the oil pan). I will get it welded in the next week or so and take more photos of the finished product. The clearance I gain will let me lower the car another inch or so with peace of mind. I have had an ST Coilover suspension waiting to be installed for two years.

Here is the rebuilt Rotomaster TO4B that Blaylock Turbo did.

I am finishing up the last few bolts on the turbo installation. The GTI poster in the background is from the 1980's. I am glad I finally have the garage to hang it in. The second photo is the turbo bolted to the exhaust manifold and header pipe with stainless steel bellows.

While under the car, I took a photo of the exhaust flange at the end of the stainless steel header pipe. I went to Napa Auto Parts to get a new 3 bolt gasket. The part # is 31369 and fits like a glove. The inner ID is 2.5 inches.

Here is a picture from below the turbo showing the oil drain before any line is attached.

Here is the finished product. It was nice to see a clean engine bay again. It is the dead of winter now so I have to wait some time before I take the car out for a spin. This car probably has not seen snow since the 1980's and I don't intend to change that.

November 25, 2012

Oil line fitting photos are below.

I pulled the receipt from Blaylock Diesel Service. The invoice was dated 4/24/08, TO4B rebuild for $425. I installed the rebuilt turbo in the Rabbit Gti two years later turning the key on July 7, 2010. The mileage on the car was 56,401 at the time. I removed the turbo two days ago with 59,117 miles. The delta is 2716 miles. I would say the seals have been an issue for the last few hundred miles. The car was smoking pretty bad in the last 25 miles. Here is a list of things I need to get.

November 23, 2012

Black Friday, er, the day off allowed me to pull the turbo. I suspect the oil seal(s) are toast on the Rotomaster TO4B as part of the Callaway Turbo set up in the 1983 Rabbit GTI. The car has been smoking - an indication of oil blowby. I have had some issue with oil leaking from the turbo. The turbo does not have more than a few thousand miles on it. I emailed Blaylock turbo about the issue over the summer. They were not too much help but it was clear something did not seat right with the oil seal(s). I am sending it back to them and see what is going on here. Below are some pictures of the turbo, oil leak, and the garage. Stay tuned.

April, 2012

I bought a used BBS air dam last month. It has the provision to fit around the Rabbit Gti fender flare so it was a no brainer to go after this one. They are hard to find. The one installed on the Gti now must be for a Rabbit without a Gti air dam. It never really looked right while the previous owner did their best to make it look as good as they could. They removed the Gti fender flares and installed and trimmed a set from a Rabbit Convertable or Mk1 Jetta.

The BBS air dam that I just got last month came to me painted in silver so I gave it to the good hands of TR Ramsdell at C+G Autobody in Beverly. I got word that it was finished this week so I picked it up today. It looks awesome - perfect paint match for the Cashmere White on the Gti. I can't wait to install it. I will flip a coin to see which Gti is going to DustOff but suspect this one is coming.

October, 2011

The black bumpers on the car have been an eye sore since I got the car from California. Actually, the front bumper was pretty new so I can't complain too much. The rear bumper had the black paint missing in spots so the aluminum was showing. I planned on getting them powdercoated for long term durability and great looking finish. I contacted Powder Coating Alternatives in Greenland, NH. The young lady on the phone was very customer service oriented (a rare feature with business these days). I brought them there to get a qoute and then settled on Raven Black for a color. They came out great. I installed the finished product and they looked great on the Gti. I brought the car out to the Broke Down show in Gardner, MA the day after I installed the bumpers. Someone was nice enough to take a photo of the car that day.

November 21, 2010

I installed a rare set of gold 15X7 BBS RA polished lip rims with brand new Kumho Ecsta tires this week. I got these from the original owner who purchased them from a BBS warehouse in the late 90's. He never installed them on his 79 323i BMW and then built up a nice set of BBS RS's. I went ahead and purchased longer 35mm lugs in black from Turner Motorsport and fresh BBS center caps from Black Forest Industries. I think they look solid on the car. I am considering a coil over suspension to tighten up the wheel gap but I am mixed about slamming the car. I like the stance in the front but the rear could come down about 1.25 inches.

July 25, 2010

I finally had some time to install a boost gauge today. I am seeing 7lbs of boost on a new VDO boost gauge that goes up to a 15lb scale. The turbo spools sooner than my other callaway turbo Rabbit. I also got under the car to drop the oil pan. I removed the oil pan baffle - scraper that I felt was not helping the oil drain back into the oil pan which has trap doors for an efficient pick up of oil. In addition, I reclocked the turbo about 15 degrees to offer more clearance from the firewall. Below is a picture of the boost gauge installed. I used a 2" (51mm) hole saw bit to get through the dash bezel. Then a dremmel sander wheel was used to get the extra mm needed to fit the gauge.

I am very happy with how this project turned out although not finished and still only have 50 miles on this rebuilt turbo so far. This car is going to be a great cruiser even with the 2H close ratio transmission. I will swap out for a higher 5th gear. In the meantime, I have to wire up the light for the boost gauge, order a green diffuser for the bulb, get some exhaust flange bolts for the long term, and replace a missing bolt and nut for the front sway bar. In addition, I will seek help from Bill to get the water injection working.

July 7, 2010

Bill and I got some more time on the project to the point where it started right up at the turn of the key. Actually we needed some help from the battery charger as the battery was down a few volts. Before that we installed a new silicone coupling 3.25" diameter (see the bright blue in the first photo below) at the throttle body, throttle cable grommet (mine disintegrated or found a new home), RedLine synthetic oil 15W-50, Pentosin Blue G11 Long-life Coolant, oil baffle, and connected the last of the vacuum lines. Underneath the car, we had to re-install the H&H sway bar which connects to the front of the A-Arms. Finally, once the car was started the engine was timed to TDC at 950rpm per the specification from the Callaway Install manual. The techtonics exhaust sounds so good at idle. I can't wait to hear it under load.

Here are some pictures of the engine bay and the water injection next to one of two Mecca oil filters that reside under the hood. Please don't mind the timing light.

Next weekend will include a road test to ensure no leaks, rattles, or whistles that do not belong. I have one of two VDO boost gauges to choose from and install before the GTI is backed out of the garage. I want to see 6lbs of boost.

July 1, 2010

Bill finished up the down pipe this past weekend. It came out very well. Many hot hours and labor were put into this one. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. As for the overall status, we are very close to turning the key to hear this this roar. We should get some time over the holiday weekend and no later than July 5.

June 17, 2010

I have been slacking off on the updates but honestly, progress has been slow and life has been getting in the way on the weekends. Bill put the final touches on the down pipe. He's got the patience and skills to weld. It came out great. It needs a bit more work and one more test fit before it will be called a finished product.

There is almost $300 in materials in this so don't be in a rush to tackle one in stainless. There is no doubt that this "bling" will require some sunglasses.

Here is another angle of the down pipe where you can see the inlet that will eventually have a bellows to exhaust from the wastegate which is bolted onto the exhuast manifold.

May 24, 2010

Bill and I had a small window of opportunity to remove the Gillet Power Sound exhaust system from the Gti yesterday. I felt pretty bad about making one cut before the rear beam to remove it. The exhaust was pretty quiet and has a nice gloss tip on it. It can easily be welded back together to offer a few more years of service in another project down the road.

This is the ultra rare Gillet Power Sound exhaust system that was on the car since 1986. It was installed at New Dimensions in California. It is in very good shape.

In with the new 2.5" Techtonics Stainless system with a Borla muffler. This shows the tail pipe exiting the rear valence. I can't wait to hear this thing rip.

This shows the close up of the Borla Muffler. I used to have the Borla muffler that came off this car back in 1986. It had a dual outlet tail pipe. I gave it away a few years ago. It made it's way onto a Cabriolet from New Hampshire. I saw it installed at Dust Off 2009 last May.

Look closely above the rear trailing arm and you will see an ultra rare bar bolted in. The brand name back in the 1980's was Pulsar. You will see the name referenced for various aftermarket parts in the Water Cooled Handbook by Greg Raven.

This the gap (about 16") between the exhaust and the down pipe from the turbo. We are awaiting a three bolt flange to arrive in the mail from Mandrel Bending Solutions in Maryland.

This is just a test fit but as the exhaust sits in the tunnel, there is plenty of clearance at the moment. The question is if we can retain the hanger from the body?

May 17, 2010

This past Saturday was all about getting a new down pipe made out of stainless steel stock to maintain a 2.5" diameter from the outlet of the turbo all the way to the tail pipe. Bill put his welding and fabrication skills to work before I could turn on the camera.

Because I had an original downpipe, a jig was made. Don't under estimate the time and effort needed to lay one out as this is the ground work for the new down pipe.

This shows the side by side down pipes together. Note the end of the stainless pipe still has not been cut down. Two pieces of stainless 2.5" stock were cut, and tacked to make the what you see here. The key is to measure twice, cut once! Note the 4" flex braid on the bench. This will be welded on the end of the down pipe. A three bolt flange will finish it off at a later date when we call it a finished product.

Another comparison of the two. Part of the quality control process requires a test fit in the actual car.

Here we test fitted the down pipe to ensure proper clearance in the engine bay. We are pondering the option not to dump the wastegate gases that are expended back into the down pipe. We have R&D looking into that over a cup of coffee.

The proper clearance is especially key down here as it approaches and enters the tunnel. We have about .5" of clearance toward the closest object which is the bracket for the steering rack. Because there is minimal shifting of the motor from east to west, all should be good unless I am doing a track day or autocrossing.

The input rod bushing was replaced with this teflon (white) unit from MissingLinkz. This tightened up the shifter feel significantly.

Here is a close up of other previously mentioned replaced bushings. Again, MissingLinkz came through with these. Note the white bushings at the top and bottom of the relay shaft.

To make the kit complete under the hood, a Callaway Valve cover is a must in my own humble opinion. This one has already had some rehab but will do for now until I kind find one in better condition.

May 11, 2010

Bill and I have had some time over the past few weekends to clean up a few items and sort out the small stuff. You will be surprised how much time it takes to sort out the small things. I want to take care of anything that might be a weak point down the road. For example, the stock relay shaft bushings were toast. I ordered Teflon bushings to handle the heat from the turbo. We also replaced the drive flange seals. We pulled each motor mount with the goal to replace them with heavy duty ones. However, they were in good shape so we aligned the motor back where it was after replacing the timing belt and updated tensioner. I will remind everyone difficult accessing the passenger side and drivers side motor mounts are. Putting everything back everything back together, raising and lowering the motor is no fun either. All you have to do is get the bolts started and your in good shape. Below are some pictures from a few weekends ago.

This cleanliness is the result of sandblasting. It cleaned up nicely and took care of over 30 years of grease, grime, and dirt that was caked on the aluminum.

Here is Bill in action sandblasting the intake manifold after the throttle body section was ported. Note the difference in the surface color of the top and back on the manifold.

This is the finished product of the sandblasting on the intake manifold. You can also see the clean up of the port for the throttle body that Bill cleaned up before taking on the sandblasting.

Here is a close up of the porting that Bill did to the area that was rather restrictive when the englarged throttle body was installed. Check out the picture way further on down in this page to see the issue with the existing throttle body installed. This will make a difference in the instance where the turbo needs not only more fuel, but more air.

This is a picture of the cam. I think it is a 1.6 liter cam. More importantly, the valve cover studs pictured were pulled in favor of new studs to allow for a rubber valver cover gasket and Callaway valver cover. Although mine has been repaired for a crack, I will use it to enhance the Callaway kit on the car. I still hope to find a perfect one without breaking the bank someday.

This is the 1.8 liter JH motor hanging from the engine hoist. This is helpful to lower the motor and support while getting to the motor mounts. In our case, the mounts were fine and did not need to be replaced. To no avail, we replaced the timing belt while we were there and lined up all of the mechanical timing marks on the crank, cam gear, while cylinder one was at top dead center (TDC).

This is a photo of the relay shaft to the far left from above. You can't see the missing bushing under the top of the shaft but trust me, it was missing. The bottom one was just about to fall out. The new teflon bushings will make a huge difference.

This is a better picture of the relay shaft and what it is all about. You can see the missing bushing at the top of the shaft.

As of now, I am waiting for some G11 coolant and Redline MTL gear oil so we can fill up the engine with new fluids. The next step is to button up the bay and then begin manufacturing the down pipe with some stainless 2.5" stock. We can't replace the passenger side axle, which received two new CV boot kits, until the down pipe is finished and installed.

April 24, 2010

My good friend Bill and I finally tore into the Rabbit Gti to begin the Callaway Stage I install on Saturday. We have three turbo installs between the two of us. I headed up to his house so we could work in his clean garage. I had a few boxes of parts including a rebuilt TO4B turbo and some various Callaway bits. The rebuilt turbo has been waiting years to be installed. We had no issue removing the intake and exhaust manifolds along with the down pipe from the car which had the nice dual outlet manifold and down pipe. Below are some pictures from the weekend. We experienced a few delays as I forgot the Callaway exhaust manifold at home and we had to make a tool run to secure a tap to chase some threads in the same exhaust manifold. I have some heavy duty motor mounts, timing belt, and a 2.5" Techtonics Tuning Stainless Steel exhaust on the way which will be installed soon. Meanwhile, I have a 2.25" Techtonics Tuning stainless steel exhaust sitting new in the box but we think bigger is better especially keeping the option open to go stage II with the intercooler and 5th injector in the future.

Rebuilt Roto-Master TO4B completed by Blaylock Turbo in Kansas. This instruction manual was used as a reference in my first install on my 1984 Rabbit Gti several years ago.

This Rabbit Gti was purchased in 1983 in New York. A stage I Callaway Turbo kit was installed within months. The owner, craving more power, went stage II months later. The owner moved to CA and the kit was removed in 1985. I bought the turbo kit several years ago and installed it on my 1984 Rabbit Gti. I bought this car about two years later and had it shipped from CA to MA. It is only fitting to have a kit installed again 25 years later.

The rear end of the Rabbit with a new 2.25" Techtonics Tuning stainless steel exhaust inside. I am seeking to go with 2.5" so this one is for sale.

The back of the motor after the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and axle removed. Note the drain plug tapped into the block that has been sealed off since 1985.

The bin of stage I Callaway parts that came from my old 1977 Mk1 Scirocco. Bill has the car now. He installed a G60 motor (PG) and his own stage II Callaway Kit a few years ago. Note the generation I Deltagate hiding under the rag. In addition, the shiny aluminum cast is specific to the stage I kit.

This is a quick shot of a test fit of the turbo to clock it properly. Note the stamp of "Callaway Cars" on the exhaust manifold. In addition, a used torn heat shield will protect the brake line from the heat of the turbo, mounted on the firewall.

Here is a shot from below to show the oil drain from the turbo to block. Note the bracket to help support the turbo once the header pipe is installed.

This is what you get when you install an aftermarket, enlarged throttle body onto a A1/Mk1 intake manifold. Note the restriction once the butterflies are opened. This will be taken care of real soon. Stay tuned as Bill is going to work his magic and create a 2.5" down pipe.

Summer 2008

I have been sitting on a rebuilt Rotomaster TO4B since April with anticipation of moving forward with Project Callaway Stage I. I also bought new exhaust manifold studs, bolts, and gaskets. Seeing as the car once had a kit installed, I am certain the install should go rather smoothly as the block already has a provision for the oil return. In addition, we'll keep the install of the turbo system simple by not going beyond stage I which means no intercooler, obtrusive intercooler pipes, and no Miller Woods Microfueler to operate an injector at the throttle body elbow casting from Callaway. Recently, my friend Bill who installed a stage II Callaway Turbo kit in my old Mk1 Scirocco, has had some success with a Warm-Up Regulator from UnwiredTools, model UTCIS-PT which is pictured below.

It provides enough fuel to each of stock Bosch Fuel Injectors and while delivering the correct Air Fuel ratio per his wide band throughout the RPM range. This is music to my ears and shows that there is a work-around away from expensive stand alone fuel management systems and additional injector controllers which from all intents and purposes is what the Microfueler was invented for. Below is a part breakdown by New Dimensions of the stage I turbo kit. New Dimensions bought all inventory, rights, and tooling from Reeves Callaway in the early 90's respective to the Volkswagen application. While New Dimensions is now under new ownership as of 2007, "Turbo" Tim Hildabrand is still available in certain forums offering parts for these turbo kits.

Small photo shoot taken of the Rabbit Gti in May of 2007

Summer 2004

This car, by far, has the most interesting history of any of my former or current cars. Back in the fall of 2001, I saw an ad for a 1983 Rabbit Gti for sale in California. Within the ad, there was an opportunity to purchase a Callaway Turbo kit with the car. I was far more interested in the kit than the car once I thought about the logistics of getting all of it back to the east coast. At the time, I did not have a car for which to install the kit on so I was no at all opposed to getting the whole package: car and parts.

The owner, turned out to be the original, purchased the car brand new in 1983 and then proceeded to spend an enormous amount of money on major modifications for the time. This included a Stage I Callaway Turbo kit which was later upgraded to stage II. Andy King at R&A Applied Arts was local to the owner. Therefore, he was responsible for the installation and upgrades to the car. R&A Applied Arts was and is one of the most respected authorized Callaway Installers on the east coast.

The owner moved to California in 1984 and had to have the Turbo removed in order to abide by the strict CARB, California Air Research Board, emissions. As a result the turbo kit was removed by the company who would eventually purchase the tooling, inventory, and rights to the Callaway Turbo Systems as it related to the Volkswagen in the early 90's.

I decided that I wanted to move forward with just the Turbo parts. The downside was that the owner would not ship the parts. Months passed by. I finally got the courage to make and offer on the turbo parts and car in March, however, the car was just sold in the week that I inquired. I purchased the turbo parts and made a wedding trip to California that Spring. In doing so, I boxed up the parts and shipped them back to the east coast. The parts went on a 1984 Rabbit Gti that I would purchase later on.

I got in touch with the new owner of the Rabbit in hope of getting copies of the receipts associated with the turbo kit that I had owned. The owner never did follow through with my request. Nonetheless, more than two years go by and I saw the Rabbit Gti up for sale in May of 2004. The ad was about five days old and I immediately inquired on the availability of the Gti.

Although I had already installed the Callaway kit onto another car, I had visions of restoring this Rabbit back to what it looked like in 1984 with the Stage II kit, wheels, et cetera. I wanted to make it happen and did not want to let this car go by again. In addition, the car looked a lot better than it did two years previously. This owner fixed any and all problems with the car from mechanical to aesthetics. Just by the ad on the internet and through my conversations with the owner, I was more than confident that I wanted the car in an obsessed demanding way.

The car arrived three weeks later. I intend to compile some Callaway Turbo parts to either come up with a stage I or stage II kit. Please get in touch if you have any parts laying around perhaps collecting dust. This car is begging to have a turbo installed. I am open to Stage I as installation would be simpler and I could still enjoy 5lbs of boost. If you can help out, please email me. In addition, if you have any experience with R&A Applied Arts, I would love to hear about them.

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