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This comprehensive bushing comparison chart was
created by Boris a.k.a. "BlueB" on the pavedwave forum.
If you have any new information to submit, please
contact him directly!
Bushings I use in both LDP and slalom:
Orange Khiro cone + Orange Khiro barrel on bottom.
This is JUST the bottom configuration. You have to kind of smash
them into place, they add up to be a little taller than a stock
Bennett. Then an Orange Khiro barrel on top. I don't care for
the aluminum cores because they tend to blow out on a distance
Another good fit are holey hourglass + holey
cones in a Bennett. The only problem is they seem to blow out
pretty fast for me. If you have the cash, try them out. They fit
right out of the box.
Yet another more recent good fit are blue Khiro
Tall cones, sometimes with a single washer on bottom, then an
Orange Khiro on top.
There's been a lot of brand hype on Silverfish
in recent years, where Venoms have taken over the market and Khiros
are now "yesterday's bushing." But here is why I tend
to stick with Khiro's when it comes to front / Bennett trucks
on an LDP:
I still use Khiros in front because they LAST
for the many miles covered in LDP. Once you've ripped up a few
$10 bushings in only the first 25 miles, unless there's a trust
fund or sponsorship involved, you'll probably want something that
performs and lasts too.
These days I tend to use 4 different types of
bushings on ONE setup: Front Bennett with Tall Khiro Orange
cone or barrel on bottom, and Venom/Sabre/Retro/Khiro barrel on
the top -- in an 80-90 duro range. Rear Virage with Vintage
Green Stim, Green Eliminator, or Green Radikal on bottom, and
Red Venom on top.
Bushing reviews on the Pavedwave Forum:
Abec11s / Retros
Bushings that work best for the Carver CX:
Carver's stock red bushings...pretty damn good
straight out of the box! However, one thing to consider is you
will probably CHEW through bushings more often with Carver CXs
because they do put a lot of twist-torque on them. So other newer
bushings can be an expensive habit to maintain.
If you skate hard and often, you'll chew through
bushings, so its always a good investment!
Bushings Shredding Solution" on the forum - from
Eric Lowell (Houston, TX)
Eric is one of the skaters who pumped 187 miles
in LIVESTRONG IV, and he's been tinkering like a mad scientist
on Mark Groenenboom's "Cambiar" dropped deck brackets.
This is one of his recent ideas to help extend the life of bushings
on a Bennett truk.
Really, they don't matter. Get the cheap ones
Just make sure they're CLEAN and LUBED and you're
Bones Reds - cheap and awesome
Rockin Rons - everyone says they're better.
What that really means is "Ron is a cool guy."
Abec11 Biltins - a favorite. Pop in and
go. No extra speed rings or spacers.
Mile High Mark's - silverfishers rave
about these, I never tried them yet. They're bearings. Whatever.
Ceramics - ok, these can make a difference,
on race day. That's the only exception.
My maintenance technique for bearings:
Allow "earth lubricant" (dirt) to collect
on outside of bearing shields and nut until fully coated. The
outside coating of earth lubricant gradually creates an additional
protective shield that prevents more earth lubricant from getting
any closer to the bearings.
Over time, a few particles may break through
the shield, and subtle crunchy noises become pronounced.
Before riding, spin your wheels a few times.
If the crunchy sounds are accompanied by a slowing down or completely
halting the wheels' momentum, it's time for some man-made synthetics
(my current solution is this Silicon Spray.)
With the board on its edge, spray a few bursts
directly at the bearing shields and allow the spray to soak in.
Repeat on the inside of the opposite wheel, and for both front
and rear wheels. Then flip the board and repeat.
After allowing the synthetic to soak in, flip
the board on its topside, wheels up, and kick/spin the wheels
HARD with your shoe, breaking free any concentrations of earth
lubricant and allowing the synthetic to completely coat the insides
of the bearings.
Probably not a good idea to follow this regimen.
Keeping your bearings clean and lubed really is a good idea. I
just don't have time to take things apart and clean them.
When things do get so crunchy that even the above
technique no longer works, I remove all the bearings, throw them
in an old Starbucks mug with a small cup of Simple Green earth-friendly
soap, then cap it and shake that thing like a bartender. This
knocks loose most of the crud, then I pop them back in, and squirt
everything with the Silicone spray and go.
Just remember, bearings do not matter.
WEDGES AND OTHER STUFF
Here's a WEDGING diagram that sums things
I got this from Chris Chaput's webpage, but originally
this was from a Rad Pad advertisement back in the late 70's.
#1 is the most "carvy" pumping setup,
and #2 keeps the back truck more stable for a more slalom/technical
pumping setup. Steer clear from configurations #3 or #4.
I don't really have any 'favorite' wedge pads.
It's a chunk of plastic or rubber that angles your truck more
or less, or keeps the wheels from chomping the deck. You can make
them from wood, many people in slalom do.
But probably the best all in one packaged deal
is the Khiro Wedge kit, with all kind of angles to mix and match
on your setups.
On the Trail... GPS
This is a Garmin Forerunner 201 and I'm totally
pleased with using it to track raw distances. The altitude measurements
are pretty sketchy, but the distance and timing is relatively
After powering up, it usually takes a minute
to locate satellites when the skies are clear, and takes longer
in overcast conditions. I don't mind the short wait, it actually
reminds me to stretch out before jumping on the board, something
that I've come to not only appreciate but respect.
The 201's got a serial cable port to PC, where
the upgrade to 301 gives you USB connect instead, and a heart
rate monitor, but you pay another $50 or so.
I bought this 201 off eBay for cheap, but for
a second one I got a 305 w/heart rate monitor, at R.E.I.
I'm also using the 101 nowadays. The downside
is that it doesn't have any PC connection, so you lose all that
cool data manipulation online. But it came more from necessity
-- I needed a GPS where you could simply change batteries, for
events like the 24-hour rides, and the 101 is the ticket for that.
The other GPS I've been toying with was created
more for orienteering. It's really powerful, and syncs up fast,
but the downside is that it doesn't seem to clearly capture the
concept of a "session" as much as the Forerunner series.
It's designed more to track waypoints and chart a course, likely
over terrain that isn't already clearly marked, like out on forested
trails. I bought this one for tracking rides that go past 24-hours
though, because the AA batteries will actually last beyond that,
possibly 28 hours even, plus they can simply be changed, so no
AC power is needed here either. Great for uber-long distance rides
across the country, perhaps?
thread with more review / comments / ongoing GPS log...
You can easily pay between $40--$100 for a pair
of skate shoes. It really depends if you're looking to appeal
to or fit into some scene, which doesn't interest me. I just want
shoes that hold up to lots of footbraking and feel comfortable
walking around in. I don't expect a lot of arch support, but rather
a nice flat sole to stay in best contact with the board. If you
really need arches or heel support you can pick those things up
separately and move them between your shoes.
Since I do burn through more shoes, especially
one particular long winding hill on my way to work, I've recently
found some World Industry shoes in the $20---$25 range that are
working great. Will probably stick with these in the high mileage
months of summer, then go back to the more expensive Vans or e/s
shoes that are basically my two favorites.
And as LDP evolves, and guys like Barefoot Ted
come into the fray introducing new products like Vibram FiveFinger
shoes, it just proves that there are other ways to take care of
I was fascinated with the idea of barefooting
years back, but after trying out a few sessions and shredding
up my feet on the grip tape (and reading horror stories about
people running out a too-fast downhilling run barefoot) I "retired"
the idea somewhat for distance excursions of any significant length.
Now, I've been revisiting this again, and following
in the footsteps of the old school slalom scene, most whom stick
with thin-soled canvas shoes like Vans or Converse. They burn
up a bit faster than the newer skate shoes, but you get a lot
more feel for the board and more control overall. The other positive
side effect is that your feet actualy get much stronger in the
process. Some people with extremely high arches still may not
be able to go this route, but I'm more and more convinced that
you can "teach" your feet to get stronger with the thin,
flat soled shoes. Or none at all -- as long as you are always
in control of your speed, and don't go any faster than you can
comfortably run out.
Tierney T-rides Board. Gotta say, it's
kinda fun. Stable at speed. Totally unstable without speed. Indy
rubberized + urethane caster wheels on bottom. Supposed to be
a cross-trainer for downhill snowboard racers.
But we're talking asphalt here, not snow, and
sliding is not an option on this one.
Had to leave this one to the younger daredevils...but
I do miss it.
BMW Streetcarver. Built by engineers,
for engineers? Interesting for a few rides. Okay, that was expensive
fun. Thank God for eBay.
Epilogue: Some Streetcarver fan mailed me about
how great this thing is and why don't I explain my very brief
rant here on my page. So here goes.
I tested this board about 9 sessions over 3 weeks,
to be fair, and to really consider whether I wanted to keep it
or not, considering the investment. Let me just point out a few
- It felt like a highchair on wheels. The best
carving machines have a much lower CG.
- Weight is around 25-35 lbs? After repeatedly
hiking a big hill it feels like 80 lbs.
- Turn it to the left. Stays there. You HAVE
TO consciously turn back to the right. NO return to center. Smooth
turning "mechanism", yes, but where's the power?
- No flex at all. Like standing on a cast iron
- Bearings made a "jingling" sound,
so I googled it. This happens to be a very well known bug amongst
the BMW owners. You can repair, but that's $$ on top of $$$$.
- IMHO, it is NOT a "snowboard cross trainer."
Training on the BMW Streetcarver teaches you how to ride a BMW
- One good point. It LOOKS very cool.
- One last solid point, to be fair... Kudos to
someone with lots of cash for pushing the envelope on a articulated
truck concept. Most board builders and designers simply don't
have the resources to follow through with a project like this.
I don't know all the background on who at BMW conceived and pushed
this through, but I do appreciate their effort. By adding some
kind of responsiveness to each "joint" in the trucks,
and more give and "life" to the deck, this could go
somewhere. It would still however be a complex design, with lots
of moving parts, which I prefer not to encourage in a sport which
wears down parts with repetitive motion.
IMHO, as far as the "skate scene" is
concerned, I still feel better steering people who really want
a carving machine away from this one. But if you have an engineer's
mind, and want a nice looking trophy, and something to tinker
with, then feel free to blow your $$. I'd rather spend my next
$600 on two very decent slalom decks, or a couple sweet carving
decks plus a skatepark deck, and that's the direction I would
steer most skateboarders who really want something to shred on.
Flowlab Deep Carve System. 7 inline-like
wheels in front, 7 more in back. Carves go click, click, click
as the the turning radius changes. Tried it a couple weeks. The
carving sensation doesn't work for me. Not like a surfboard, not
like a flexy skateboard. I dunno. But it seems like they need
to get that "click" out of the carve. One thing they
do well is hire a bunch of babes to promote at events.
I guess the kids who rip up skateparks like these
as a kind of hybrid carver and park riding deck.
|Stowboard. Word of advice:
Don't drink and bid on eBay.