BEARINGS

Really, they don't matter. Get the cheap ones and go!

Just make sure they're CLEAN and LUBED and you're golden.

Bones Reds - cheap and awesome

Rockin Rons - everyone says they're better. What that really means is "Ron is a cool guy."

Abec11 Biltins - a favorite. Pop in and go. No extra speed rings or spacers.

Ceramics - ok, these can make a difference, on race day. That's the only exception.

My maintenance technique for bearings:

Allow "earth lubricant" (dirt) to collect on outside of bearing shields and nut until fully coated. The outside coating of earth lubricant gradually creates an additional protective shield that prevents more earth lubricant from getting any closer to the bearings.

Over time, a few particles may break through the shield, and subtle crunchy noises become pronounced.

Before riding, spin your wheels a few times. If the crunchy sounds are accompanied by a slowing down or completely halting the wheels' momentum, it's time for some man-made synthetics (my current solution is this Silicon Spray.)

With the board on its edge, spray a few bursts directly at the bearing shields and allow the spray to soak in. Repeat on the inside of the opposite wheel, and for both front and rear wheels. Then flip the board and repeat.

After allowing the synthetic to soak in, flip the board on its topside, wheels up, and kick/spin the wheels HARD with your shoe, breaking free any concentrations of earth lubricant and allowing the synthetic to completely coat the insides of the bearings.

Probably not a good idea to follow this regimen. Keeping your bearings clean and lubed really is a good idea. I just don't have time to take things apart and clean them.

When things do get so crunchy that even the above technique no longer works, I remove all the bearings, throw them in an old Starbucks mug with a small cup of Simple Green earth-friendly soap, then cap it and shake that thing like a bartender. This knocks loose most of the crud, then I pop them back in, and squirt everything with the Silicone spray and go.

Just remember, bearings do not matter.

WEDGES, BUSHINGS, OTHER STUFF

On the Trail... GPS

This is a Garmin Forerunner 201 and I'm totally pleased with using it to track raw distances. The altitude measurements are pretty sketchy, but the distance and timing is relatively accurate.

After powering up, it usually takes a minute to locate satellites when the skies are clear, and takes longer in overcast conditions. I don't mind the short wait, it actually reminds me to stretch out before jumping on the board, something that I've come to not only appreciate but respect.

The 201's got a serial cable port to PC, where the upgrade to 301 gives you USB connect instead, and a heart rate monitor, but you pay another $50 or so.

I bought this 201 off eBay for cheap, but for a second one I got a 305 w/heart rate monitor, at R.E.I.

I'm also using the 101 nowadays. The downside is that it doesn't have any PC connection, so you lose all that cool data manipulation online. But it came more from necessity -- I needed a GPS where you could simply change batteries, for events like the 24-hour rides, and the 101 is the ticket for that.

The other GPS I've been toying with was created more for orienteering. It's really powerful, and syncs up fast, but the downside is that it doesn't seem to clearly capture the concept of a "session" as much as the Forerunner series. It's designed more to track waypoints and chart a course, likely over terrain that isn't already clearly marked, like out on forested trails. I bought this one for tracking rides that go past 24-hours though, because the AA batteries will actually last beyond that, possibly 28 hours even, plus they can simply be changed, so no AC power is needed here either. Great for uber-long distance rides across the country, perhaps?

GPS thread with more review / comments / ongoing GPS log...

WEDGES

Here's a WEDGING diagram that sums things up well.

I got this from Chris Chaput's webpage, but originally this was from a Rad Pad advertisement back in the late 70's.

#1 is the most "carvy" pumping setup, and #2 keeps the back truck more stable for a more slalom/technical pumping setup. Steer clear from configurations #3 or #4.

I don't really have any 'favorite' wedge pads. It's a chunk of plastic or rubber that angles your truck more or less, or keeps the wheels from chomping the deck. You can make them from wood, many people in slalom do.

But probably the best all in one packaged deal is the Khiro Wedge kit, with all kind of angles to mix and match on your setups.

BUSHINGS

Bushings I used for slalom (Virages, SplitFires, Radikals):

White or White + Orange Khiro Barrels in front. Red or Yellow Khiro Barrels in rear. Flat washers. Simple, and last forever.

Venom Barrels, same idea.

Stims are my favorite rear bushings, just expensive and hard to find.

Bushings for Bennetts:

White or Orange Khiro cone on bottom + White Khiro barrel. This is just the bottom configuration. Then a White or Orange Khiro cone on top. Don't care for he aluminum cores because they tend to blow out on a distance setup.

Bushings that work best for the Carver CX:

1. Carver's stock red bushings...pretty damn good straight out of the box!
2. Khiro blue or white combinations, blue barrel on bottom and either white barrel or coned one on top, I use extra washers so I don't have to screw the nut down as much
3. Radikal 80a (red) or 85a (blue) -- although these are almost too big to fit the Carvers, you have to kind of jam the truck down into the pivot cup it just barely fits over the bottom bushing. The reds are probably best. I've also liked the ride of red on bottom and clear on top.
4. STIMS! These are nice on the bottom... however, one thing to consider is you will probably CHEW through bushings more often with Carver CXs because they do put a lot of twist-torque on them. So Stims can be an expensive habit to maintain.

Again Khiro is king for a full set of all their different durometer bushings, so either try out a full Khiro pack, or custom-select a Radikal Race Pack of bushings.

If you skate hard and often, you'll chew through bushings, so its always a good investment!

"Khiro Bushings Shredding Solution" on the forum - from Eric Lowell (Houston, TX)

Eric is one of the skaters who pumped 187 miles in LIVESTRONG IV, and he's been tinkering like a mad scientist on Mark Groenenboom's "Cambiar" dropped deck brackets. This is one of his recent ideas to help extend the life of bushings on a Bennett truk.

http://pavedwave.myfastforum.org/about104.html

SHOES

You can easily pay between $40--$100 for a pair of skate shoes. It really depends if you're looking to appeal to or fit into some scene, which doesn't interest me. I just want shoes that hold up to lots of footbraking and feel comfortable walking around in. I don't expect a lot of arch support, but rather a nice flat sole to stay in best contact with the board. If you really need arches or heel support you can pick those things up separately and move them between your shoes.

Since I do burn through more shoes, especially one particular long winding hill on my way to work, I've recently found some World Industry shoes in the $20---$25 range that are working great. Will probably stick with these in the high mileage months of summer, then go back to the more expensive Vans or e/s shoes that are basically my two favorites.

And as LDP evolves, and guys like Barefoot Ted come into the fray introducing new products like Vibram FiveFinger shoes, it just proves that there are other ways to take care of the feet.

I was fascinated with the idea of barefooting years back, but after trying out a few sessions and shredding up my feet on the grip tape (and reading horror stories about people running out a too-fast downhilling run barefoot) I "retired" the idea somewhat for distance excursions of any significant length.

Now, I've been revisiting this again, and following in the footsteps of the old school slalom scene, most whom stick with thin-soled canvas shoes like Vans or Converse. They burn up a bit faster than the newer skate shoes, but you get a lot more feel for the board and more control overall. The other positive side effect is that your feet actualy get much stronger in the process. Some people with extremely high arches still may not be able to go this route, but I'm more and more convinced that you can "teach" your feet to get stronger with the thin, flat soled shoes. Or none at all -- as long as you are always in control of your speed, and don't go any faster than you can comfortably run out.

http://pavedwave.myfastforum.org/New_Shoes_Blues_about728.html