Solutions! < br>
Don Peterson’s windshield recipe:

For windshields, I use either 1/8" or 3/16" Lexan. The 3/16 is a bit heavier than the original, but doesn't vibrate so much as Lexan has a bit more "wobbly" than the original plexiglass.

In any case, Lexan is bent in a metal brake just like aluminum. No heating, just bend it to the desired angle. With very little work, you can lay out a pattern from an old windshield (Stick contact paper to the inside surface of the old windshield and mark it) and then transfer it to the Lexan, which comes covered in either a plastic protecting cover or paper protecting cover. Leave this protecting layer on until the very end to avoid scratching the surface.

The original windshield is heat-bent plexi, so the corners are somewhat curved. You will end up with very precise and neat corners in your Lexan, so there is a bit of a challenge to get your pattern correct to match the corners of the wooden cockpit mounting ring. Once you have it figured out, it's very easy. I make the blanks slightly larger than required, then use a narrow belt sander to finish the edges. Lexan will not deform with heat like plexiglass, so you can sand like crazy along the edge and get a nice finish.

You definitely want to get a smooth edge, however, as Lexan is like aluminum in that a scratch on the edge may form a stress riser, leading to a crack. It is very tough stuff, but not once a crack starts. I usually make up a half dozen or more "blanks" at a time, and then finish the edges. The final hole drilling I leave until I fit them to the airplane so I can match everything up nicely to the individual holes. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole then open the holes with a step drill just large enough that the fasteners do not rub the lexan.

Note: I used 3/16” Lexan following Don’s directions. We made new windshields for 3 ½ Stampes. The material and method works very well. I can see forward!

John Kraus

Inner Tubes
Jud Bailey uses the same tubes as for a Beech Baron.

Quick Check of the Bottom End - Don Peterson
When you get bored, open up the bottom end of both of your spare engines and pop off the #3 and #4 rod bearing caps and tell me what you find. If they are smooth and looking good, you can probably plan on going around for another dance with those bottom ends. If they have chunks starting to come out of the bearing shells, then you have your mission defined. Be sure and look at the bearing shell that is in the rod half as well as the shell that is in the cap half. It is the shell in the rod half that takes the pounding.