PA Fly Fishing 2004 Fly Swap
Fly Photos By Chaz


Black Foam Beetle
Tied by Don Stanko
Little Brown Trout Streamer
Tied by Miro Slovnik
Tan Deer Hair Caddis
Tied by Hank Stegmueller
Beadhead Hare's Ear
Tied by Judy Stegmueller
Bead Head Hare's Ear Nymph In Black
Tied by Tom Fletcher
Beeber's Foam Humpty
Tied by Bill Brothers
Orange Crane Fly w/Wing
Tied by Chaz MacDonald
Thorax BWO
Tied by Kevin Kresowaty
Glass Bead Caddis Worms
Tied by Dave Snyder
Early Black Stonefly
Tied by Brad Birely
The Heathen
Tied by Lou Teletski
Ice Fly
Tied by Tim Murphy
Madam-X
Tied by Rene' Martinez
Mackie Bug
Tied by Marco Martinez
Gartside Soft-hackle Streamer
Tied by Chris L.
Green Drake Comparadun
Tied by Jack M.

 


Black Foam Beetle
Tied by Don Stanko

Hook: #14 Mustad (or other desired size)
Thread: Black
Underbody: peacock herl (may use dyed)
Overbody: black closed-cell foam
Hackle: black (oversized one or two sizes)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

General Instructions:

I tied these on a size #14 Mustad.  For the swap I tied some with standard peacock herl (green) and some with dyed peacock herl (red or purple) as the underbody.  As noted, the hackle should be several sizes larger than if hackling a dry fly.  This will become the legs on this pattern.  For the overbody, use black foam in a round circle or "disc".  The size of the circle should be appropriate to the hook size.  I make the discs using various sized cork boring tools.  I used a shiny black foam that I found at work for these particular flies.  You can use any closed cell foam you choose.  This is a variation of a pattern that I saw in an article by Harrison Steeves entitled "Terrestrials 101" .  The article covered a number of terrestrial patterns utilizing foam discs.  Terrestrials are his specialty.

Step-By-Step Tying Instructions:

1.  Wrap thread on hook shank to bend.
2.  Tie on hackle (stem or tip, it doesn't matter).
3.  Tie on 2 or 3 strands of peacock herl and wrap underbody leaving at least 1/8" more than normal behind hook eye.  Tie off and trim.
4.  Wrap hackle forward palmering through herl underbody.  Tie off and trim.
5.  Pinch foam disc in half between thumb and forefinger and tie in just in front of body by trapping at least 1/8" of foam with thread.
6.  Whip finish and cement.

Fishing:

This fly floats like a cork.  I left the legs long (my preference) but they can be trimmed to suit your preference.  Paint can be applied to sides of foam to increase visibility.  It can also pass as a cricket imitation and should work well on small native or wild trout streams.

            Don Stanko
            Lower Burrell, Pennsylvania USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Little Brown Trout Streamer
Tied by Miro Slovnik

Hook: Mustad 79580 Size 2
Thread: Black 3/0
Tail: Breast Feather From Ringneck Pheasant (Note: cut out the dark center part to form tail)
Body: Acrylic Yarn (Color = "Pure Fisherman")
Rib: Copper Wire
Wing: A Layer of Yellow Bucktail
           A Layer of Fire Orange Krystal Flash
           A Layer of Orange Bucktail
           A Layer of Fox Squirrel Tail
Optional: Eyes (Jungle Cock, Painted or Stick-on)

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fishing this monstrosity:

The first thing you must do is pinch-down the enormous barb.  (If you stick yourself you will be glad you did!)
This pattern is not weighted to allow for fishing it in different conditions.  I like to place a split shot right up against the eye of the hook, as it gives the streamer a jigging action.  Down and across swing, twitch, twitch, Fish-On!  [Screaming Reel Sound here] Good luck!

            Miro Slovnik
            Pennsylvania, USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Tan Deer Hair Caddis
Tied by Hank Stegmueller

Hook: Mustad 94840 #12-22 (size 14 used)
Thread: Tan/Cream 6/0
Body: Brown/Tan Fur Blend
Hackle: Brown
Wing: Tan Deer Hair

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

1.  Cover the entire shank of hook with thread, ending at bend
2.  Tie in hackle
3.  Dub a slender body using the tan fur blend
4.  Wrap the hackle up the shank of the hook, 4-5 wraps
5.  Cut about 3/4 the gap of the hook of deer hair and place in a hair stacker, natural ends down.  Stack the hair.  Remove the hair from the stacker and place on top of the body.  Squeeze the deer hair while holding onto the body and wrap 10 good wraps of thread around the wing.  Leave about 1/16" of excess deer hair hanging over the eye of the hook, clip off the rest.
6.  Tie finishing knot and glue.

            Hank Stegmueller
            Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Beadhead Hare's Ear
Tied by Judy Stegmueller

Bead Head: Brass Bead
Hook: Mustad 3906B #10-18  (size 12 used)
Thread: Brown
Tail: Pheasant Tail Fibers
Body: Hare's Ear Blend
Ribbing: Pearl Krystal Flash

 


 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

1.  Place bead on hook
2.  Wrap entire shank of hook with thread, ending at the bend
3.  Tie in 3 pheasant tail fibers for tail
4.  Tie in krystal flash
5.  Dub a tapered body with the fur blend
6.  Wrap krystal flash around body
7.  Tie finishing knot and pick out fur between ribbing
 

            Judy Stegmueller
            Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 


 

Bead Head Hare's Ear Nymph In Black
Tied by Tom Fletcher

Hook: Standard nymph hook 12 -18
Thread: Black 6/0
Bead: 3/32 gold or copper
Tail: Black Hen Hackle Fibers (Green  or Black Rabbit)
Abdomen: Black Hares Ear Dubbing
Thorax: Black Hares Ear Dubbing
Rib: Fine Gold or Copper Wire
Wing Case: Dark Turkey or "Thin Skin"
Upper - Dark olive bucktail

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

This fly is tied in the same manner as you would tie any other bead head hare's ear with the exception that I have found it makes no difference what you use for the tail. I'll use whatever is handy and the fish don't seem to mind. I also put a drop of five minute epoxy on the wing case when the fly is complete. I just like the appearance of it.

I fish it as I would any other nymph. I don't know what it really imitates, a very small stone ,leech, or whatever, but it catches fish for me.  It seems to work best in the riffles of our local streams.
 

            Tom Fletcher
            Wantage, New Jersey, USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Beeber's Foam Humpty
Tied by Bill Brothers
Hook: Size 12/16 Dry Fly
Thread: Orange
Body: Orange Foam on top, peacock underneath
Hackle: Grizzly

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

Attach thread to hook near the eye and wrap back to end.  Cut foam into a strip between one-eighth to one-quarter inch wide, depending on your preference.  Cut a "V" shape into the end of the foam, this will be the tie-in point.  Tie the foam on, wrapping with increasing pressure.  Tie in several strands of peacock (I soak the peacock first to soften the stem).  Wrap the peacock to about one-eighth inch from the eye, tie off and clip.  Carefully fold the foam towards the hook eye and tie in near where the peacock ends.  Wrap with increasing pressure to avoid cutting the foam.  Clip the foam making a neat head.  Attach grizzly feather and make about 4 wraps of hackle, tie off and then tie off and clip the thread.

Fishing the fly:

This fly is great as an attractor fly and is also good in two fly rigs.  When beetles are present this fly can be slapped on the
surface with good results.  This fly is also great with a pheasant tail or other nymph tied in tandem.

            Bill Brothers
            Riegelsville, Pennsylvania USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 


 

Orange Crane Fly w/Wing
Tied by Chaz MacDonald

Hook: #14 Standard Dry
Thread: Orange Unicord
Body: Sulfur Dubbing
Wing: Dun Hackle tied downwing
Hackle: Ginger

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

Tie them sparsely they work every where I've used them and that is about 15 states.

            Chaz MacDonald
            Center Valley, Pennsylvania USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Thorax BWO
Tied by Kevin Kresowaty

Hook: #10-18 Standard Dry
Tail: Dun Hackle Fibers
Wing: Fibers From Dun Colored turkey Flats
Body: Light to Medium Olive Dubbing
Thorax: Same as Body
Hackle: Medium Dun Trimmed To Bottom

 


 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

Tying is pretty straight forward. A couple of notes though: I usually tie in the tail so that the fibers fan out a little. Also, I tie the wings the same as mallard on a light cahill rather than using the tips of the turkey flats in a fan wing style. I only use a single hackle feather and wrap it in a sort of open spiral to keep it relatively sparse. When trimming, be careful so that you don't remove too much, doing this may lead to the fly tipping over when on the water.

            Kevin Kresowaty
            New Castle, Pennsylvania USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 


Glass Bead Caddis Worms
Tied by Dave Snyder
Hook: Size 14, 2X strong, 1X short shrimp/scud hook
Body: Beads from Craft Store
Collar: Any black natural dubbing will work. I used black squirrel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

1. Cover the hook shank with thread in the color of your choice.
2. Dub the front part using black thread and tie off at the eye.
3. Slide on glass beads.
4. Build up a lump of thread at the back of the beads to hold them in place and secure with head cement and don't be afraid to put some on the beads too. It soaks between the gaps and helps secure the beads (I hope).

I've been supporting a new fly shop over here that has only been open for about 6 months. Right now he mostly carries steelhead stuff as far as tying supplies. I have caught steelhead and regular trout with these tied on regular thickness hooks as well, but I didn't have enough of those hooks for the fly swap.
 

                        Dave Snyder (BFD)
                        Williamsfield, Ohio, USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 


Early Black Stonefly
Tied by Brad Birely

Hook: #16 Dry Fly
Thread:8/0 Black
Body: Black Dubbing (fine)
Wing: Black Turkey Biots
Hackle: Grizzly

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

Sometimes I will trim the hackle flat on the bottom if I'm drifting the fly perfectly still. If you want some movement keep it full.
You can tie these in size 18 also.

                    Brad (Birely) From Potter
                    Galeton, Pennsylvania USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 


 

The Heathen
Tied by Lou Teletski

Hook: Tiemco TMC 2457 or 2487 #16-20
Underbody: One Wrap Pearl Krystal Flash
Body: Larva Lace Gray Body Material (Hollow) slipped over Krystal Flash, segmented with Black 8/0 Uni-thread
Wing: Upright - White Larva Lace Dry Foam (pre-sliced)
Thorax: Coarse Hare's Ear, dubbed front and back of wing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions: (see  www.larvalace.com )

1.  Tie on one piece of Krystal Flash, just behind the eye of the hook.
2.  When Krystal Flash is secured on hook, lift up, off the back of the hook and proceed wrapping hook shank with black thread, stopping just at the bend of the hook.
3.  Continue wrapping Krystal Flash over the shank of the hook, stopping at the bend.
4.  Tie off Krystal Flash and cut off remaining Krystal Flash material.
5.  Slip Larva Lace Body Material over the eye and shank of the hook, not to exceed half of hook shank.  Tip: A little spit inside the Larva Lace will help it slide on easier.
6.  Snip larva Lace at the eye of the hook and push remaining section to bend of hook.
7.  Build small abdomen with tying thread and continue with close segmented wraps over the Larva Lace to the eye of the hook.
8.  Tie in small piece of Larva Lace pre-sliced foam approximately 1/3 shank length back from the eye of the hook.  Leave foam pointing up as a parachute post.
9.  Dub coarse hare's ear in front and behind foam post creating a thorax.
10. Whip finish and secure with Larva Lace Flex-Loc head cement.
11. Trim foam post short above hare's ear thorax when used as a nymph.  Trim post high above the thorax when used as an emerger.

Tip/Alternative: This pattern can be tied with any color of Larva Lace Body Material.  Go green or olive for an awesome caddis emerger.  Leaving the Krystal Flash out or substituting flat pearl mylar is also an effective way to tie The Heathen.

            Lou Teletski
            North East, Maryland, USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Ice Fly
Tied by Tim Murphy

Hook: TMC 2487 #14-22
Thread: 6/0 on #14, 8/0 on #16-22
Tail: Hackle fiber
Abdomen: Mylar Holographic Motion
Thorax: Ice Dub
Wingbase: Mylar Holo Motion
Head: Matching Bead

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Tying Instructions:

This pattern is Larry's newest and can be tied in several colors. It uses Hareline's Ice UV dub and Holographic Mylar Motion. Use gold beads for a different look or a silver bead with silver dub and silver motion for a great attractor. Black and green works well for Baetis and a red one with a black bead is a good Red Quill nymph. Sizes #14 to #22 are best. Larry has them in Black (above), Gold, Red, Silver, Emerald, and Purple.

Tying Tip:
Wrap mylar from thorax back to the tail, and overwrap back to thorax. Fold back tag of mylar, dub thorax, and then pull the mylar over.

            Tim Murphy
            Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Madam-X
Tied by Rene' Martinez

Hook: #8-14 dry 2XL or 3XL
Thread: Black 6/0
Tail:  Deer hair
Head: Deer hair
Wing: Deer hair
Legs: Round Rubber

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

1.  Secure the hook in the vise (make sure it’s secure).
2.  Clip a portion of deer hair about diameter of a pencil from the skin.
3.  Clean and Stack the hair to align the tips.
4.  Measure the deer hair so that when it is tied in it is about the same distance beyond the hook as the hook gape.  When you tie in the hair, don’t allow the hair to spin around the shank.  It all stays on top.
5.  Tie in the hair about 3 eye lengths back on the shank and wrap it down FIRMLY.
6.  Spiral wrap the thread to the bend and then back to the tie in point.
7.  Clip a portion of deer hair about diameter of a pencil from the skin.
8.  Clean and Stack the hair to align the tips.
9.  Turn the hair stack so the points of the hair face the eye of the hook.
10. Directly in front of the tie in point, tie in this stack of hair – FIRMLY.  Remember to keep the hair on top of the shank – don’t allow it to spin.
11. Wrap the thread up to the eye and then back to the tie in point.
12. Grasp the deer hair and bend it back toward the rear of the hook to make the head and wing.
13. Tie in the head – again FIRMLY.
14. Tie in a set of legs on your side of the fly, turn fly over and tie in the other leg.  Make them even.

I like to fish this fly as a dry fly.  I soak it in Frogs Fanny which helps to keep this fly floating for long periods of time.  Cast and fish as you would a grasshopper.  This fly also makes a dandy indicator fly and I often fish a midge behind / underneath it.

            Rene' Martinez
            Hummelstown, Pennsylvania, USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 


Mackie Bug
Tied by Marco Martinez

Hook: Mustad 3906B, #8-12
Thread: Danville Size A Waxed Flymaster Plus
Underbody: Chenille to match the foam-rubber body color
Body: 1/8" thick art foam-rubber cut into 1/4" sections
Wingcase: Tag end of the art foam-rubber used to make the head
Legs: Rubber hackle strips cut into 2" lengths
Eyes: Tag end of the art foam rubber used for the body
Head: Contrasting color of art foam-rubber cut into 1/4" section

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions (from Bluegill Itsabug Submitted by Gary Yaden, Flyfisherman Fly Archive):

"1.  Cut your color choices of the art foam-rubber into 1/4" sections. A dark body / light head combination works best for me. 2.  Attach the tying thread at the rear of the hook.
3.  Cut a small "V" shape at one end of the art foam-rubber. This helps the thread attach the foam-rubber to the hook better. Attach the foam-rubber section for the body at the rear of the hook just above the bend, letting it extend backwards over the end of the hook.
4.  Tie in the chenille, to match the body color, right over the attached foam-rubber at the rear of the hook. The chenille underbody will hide all tying thread wraps on the fly.
5.  Wind the tying thread to mid-point of the hook shank. Attach four strips of rubber hackle for the legs. I find it easier to separate the rubber hackle into four strand sections, tie it in on top of the hook shank, then separate the strands into legs when finished with the fly. It is also easier to keep the rubber hackle out of the way during the tying process. Anchor the rubber hackle with a wrap of thread just behind and just in front of where it is tied in.
6.  Wind the tying thread to within 1/8" of the hook eye. Using the same method as before, attach the foam-rubber for the head, letting it extend out over the hook eye. Wrap the chenille underbody, covering all thread tie-ins, to within 1/8" of the hook eye and tie down.
7.  Pull the foam-rubber body up and over the chenille underbody and tie down at the front of the hook over the chenille underbody wraps. I usual use four wraps of thread to anchor the chenille and foam-rubber at the front of the hook. Cut the foam-rubber leaving about 1/8" in front of the tie down wraps.
8.  Now pull the foam-rubber extending out in front of the hook back over the body tie in wraps and secure down with four wraps of tying thread. If enough of the foam-rubber used to form the body was left in front of the tie in spot, your Itsabug should now appear to have an "eye" on the side of the head!
9.  Whip finish with six wraps of thread and your Itsabug is done!

Comments:

The Bluegill Itsabug (named such by my son) is a dynamite foam-rubber bluegill / pan fish fly along the line of a spider or beetle. With this pattern it is possible to actually give the appearance of an "eye" on the head of the fly. Color combinations are limited only to the colors of foam-rubber you can find, usual in 1/8" to 1/4" sheets at most arts and crafts stores or such departments at local discount department stores. A dark body with light head seems to work best for me.

As mentioned before, a dark body with a light head has seemed to work best for me on the Itsabug, but use your own preference. A plus to using a lighter colored head is that you incorporate a "strike indicator" to the Itsabug in the pattern."

            Marco Martinez
            Hummelstown, Pennsylvania, USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Gartside Soft-hackle Streamer
Tied by Chris L.

Thread: 6/0
Flash of Preference
Blood Marabou Feathers (color of choice)
Partridge, Pheasant, Mallard or like for last collar

 

 

 

 

 


 

Instructions

1. Start thread at eye of hook and wrap back shank until even with point.
2. Tie in flash.
3. Wrap thread forward until 1/8 inch from eye of hook.
4. Select marabou and strip feathers from stem at the point where stem narrows considerably.
5. Tie in first marabou curved side down at the butt end, not by the tip.  Tip of feather should extend away from eye of hook.
6.  Double feather and wrap.  Be sure not to tangle the feather after each wrap.  A bodkin can be used to keep feather in order.  Tie off at tip, stroke feather to rear of hook and wrap 2-3 more times with thread.
7. Repeat with as many collars and colors as desired to achieve the look you desire.
8. Select rump feather from partridge, pheasant, mallard or the like.  Hackle should be long enough to extend just past point of hook.
9. Tie in hackle just like the marabou.  It is critical to have the curved side down or the feather will not lay back, but instead create a “spider leg” effect.
10. Wrap hackle and tie off just like the marabou.
11. Tie off head and finish with half hitch or whip finish.  Apply head cement if you desire.

Notes

1. The head on the fly submitted is intentionally oversized.  In this color combination the fly imitates sculpins, hellgrammites and mad toms all of which have a more pronounced head.
2. In larger sizes (1 through 4/0) I always tie this fly with jungle-cock eyes.
3. Keep the flash sparse.  With this pattern less is better.

Jack Gartside (“A rare angler of substance.”) created this pattern more than 25 years ago.   It is an incredibly simple, easy to tie pattern that is deadly on all species of fresh and saltwater fish.  Only available materials and imagination limit size and color.  The pattern can be tied with a single color or by blending colors (tying in two or more feathers simultaneously) or layering.

The color pattern submitted has proven exceptionally effective on trout and bass.  Four collars, one each of olive, brown and black marabou and pheasant rump are employed.

            Chris L.
            Harletsville, Pennsylvania, USA

 

Caddis   -   Mayflies   -   Midges/Craneflies   -   Stoneflies   -   Terrestrials   -   Baitfish

Nymphs/Wets   -   Emergers   -   Duns/Dries   -   Streamers

2003 Index   -   2004 Index   -   2005 Index   -   2006 Index   -   2007 Index   -   2007 Summer Index   -   2007 Caddis Index   -   2008 Wooly Bugger Index

 

Green Drake Comparadun
Tied by Jack M.

Hook: #10 dry
Thread: Yellow or Cream
Body: Green Died Deer Hair
Thorax: Olive/Green Dubbing
Wing: Light Deer Hair
Hackle: Grizzly (size 12)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tying Instructions:

1. Tie in thread just behind hook eye and wind to bend; return to 1/3 of shaft from eye.
2. Clean and stack died deer hair about thickness of two matchsticks; remove from stacker in left hand and trim butts even to desired length (about 2 hook shank lengths).
3. Grasp deer hair in left hand with about 1/4 inch of butt extending; place hair against shaft at about 1/3 shaft length from eye.
4. Make 2 or 3 soft wraps near fingertips, then wrap tight at rear of prior wraps 3 or 4 wraps.
5. Here's the tricky part-- spiral the thread back to bend, while slowly sliding fingers out of the way (never release hair); at hook bend, continue spiral around hair only tight enough to slightly dent hair (you will need to reach around with one finger to grab the bobbin); continue to within 1/2 inch of hair tips; at this point, make three tight wraps to mark end of abdomen and work spiral back to hook and continue to starting point.
6. Make several wraps over top of the flared butts to secure, then whip knot and cut thread.
7. Use head cement to secure whip knot and use it on the thread band at end of abdomen; allow body to dry.
8. Start new thread near hook eye to match your choice of thorax dubbing (I used olive, green is good too).
9.  Wrap back to beginning of abdomen.
10.  Stack light deer hair, one matchstick or so, tie in with tips forward at 1/3 shaft length from eye; you should have this wing about twice the hook gap; trim butts and secure.
11.  Add thorax dubbing to thread and build thorax over butts of green and light deer hair behind wing.
12. Push deer hair wing upright and flair around top half of hook like typical comparadun; continue thorax dubbing in front of wing to support upright.
13. Tie in Grizzly hackle in front of hair wing on top of front thorax and make two or three wraps, then tie off.
14.  Build head and whip finish; cement head.
15.  Now, trim grizzly hackle a little below the hook shank and cut an upside down "V" into it to make leg impressions.
16. Thin end of tail by trimming the top and bottom, and spread fibers and notch the middle, leaving a few hairs on each side.

Notes: This is a variation on a theme I learned from an article by Art Scheck in the May/June 2002 issue of American Angler called "Stretch-Limo Mayflies."  There are better instructions in the article with step-by-step photographs.  I followed his patterns for the body, and varied a pattern for the wing portion.  I find the addition of the Grizzly hackle helps support the fly.  Believe it or not, it floats like a cork with the entire body in the film.  I tested it before I tied my swap flies to make sure the bulky wing wouldn't create tippet twisting problems.  With 5X, I whipped it around and false cast ad nauseum and had no problems.  I hope you won't either.  I can't claim to have caught anything on it, but I'm convinced it will work if the fishing are taking hatching or stillborn duns.  Some might prefer a lighter colored abdomen to be more accurate to Eastern Green Drakes.  I'm betting it won't matter.  I hope you don't mind my experiment and look forward to hearing that someone tricked a big trout with it.  Have fun.

            Jack M.
            Monessen, Pennsylvania USA

 

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[C] Alan J. Manderino 2006