PA Fly Fishing 2007 Summer Fly Swap
Swapmaster and Fly Photos By DJ Myers
Tied By StudentOfTheStream
Hook: Dai Riki 270 #10
Tied By FlyfishermanJ
Hook: Dai Riki 280, size 10(You can tie them larger and smaller if you want)
Thread: Whatever you like
Tail: Optional, have seen them with calf tail before
Body: Chenelle, what ever color you want, I use rust,green and olive
Wing: Elk Hair, bleached or not
Legs: Rubber legs (white or black)
This is a fly that you can tweek a little. I've added crystal flash as an underwing, tied a knot in the legs so they are hinged, trimmed the head different ways. I keep it simple for the swap. I use this fly a lot as a hopper in a hopper and dropper rig.
Tied by JayL
Hook: Size 14 BARBLESS hook, standard dry fly.
Light: Yellow dubbing, glo bug yarn, glow in the dark dubbing, etc.
Body: peacock herl
Shellback: black swiss straw
Wing: black cdc
thread: black or dark brown
1. Tie the swiss straw in at the eye, with the length of the piece going back over the bend, similar to tying in a piece of scud back. Lash the straw to the hook along the shank. This gives the body its fullness and makes for a fat "juicy" fly.
2. Wind thread down shank until even with the point of the hook. Tie in two strands of peacock herl (or one doubled over). Tie them so the butt end of the herl is facing the bend. Trim the butts of the herl.
3. Dub in the yellow part. I like it to be very full.
4. Wind the thread to the eye of the hook and wrap the herl along the body. The fuller, the better.
5. Tie off the herl and pull the swiss straw shellback over the body. Tie it off at the eye of the hook. It may spin around the shank a little, so work it with your fingers to make sure it's tight and aligned properly over the top of the hook.
6. Half hitch around the "neck" like you would when tying a elk hair caddis. Tie in a black cdc downwing, using the method of your choice. I like to tie in a feather at the butt, double it over, and tie in the tip. This makes a loop, then I just trim it off at the end of the wing.
I made this pattern up for this swap, so I'm not sure how it works. I'd imagine it would be effective on trout, but definitely on bluegills and bass. I'd imagine it will float very low, or possibly sink. Give it an agressive plop in front of cruising fish on a june or july evening and see what happens.
Tied by BuckBarrett
Hook: #8 egg hook (to make it look mean)
Body: black and yellow dubbing
Hackle: black neck hackle
Tag: black floss
Wing: shaped black neck hackle
Tied by Jaybo41
Hook: Size 10-14 Daiichi 2220 or TMC 5263
(any streamer hook or long nymph hook will do)
Thorax: Petite Opalescent black estaz
Legs: Medium round rubber
Body: 2mm black foam, green 2mm foam for high vis.
Under Wing: 7 strands of crystal flash
Wing: black deer hair
1. Wrap the shank with the thread and tie in a piece of black estaz. Then wrap the estaz to the eye and secure the estaz.
2. Wrap the thread backwards through the estaz to about the 1/3 point from the eye. Tie in the legs, one on each side or Madam X style.
3. Tie in and secure a piece of black foam at the same position where the legs are tied.
4. Add 7 strands of crystal flash and secure them as the underwing, then trim the excess above the underwing. Cut, clean and stack some black deer hair. Tie in the deer hair above the crystal flash. Once all is positioned, use tight wraps to secure the foam and underwing. Add head cement to secure.
5. Position the thread near the eye of the hook and wrap several times to position the foam and excess deer hair. This will form the head and abdomen. (Wrap 2) trim the excess deer hair and then wrap tightly to secure foam and deer hair. Add head cement to secure.
6. Position the thread in the middle of the legs (wrap 1), in the rear area that has been tied off. Fold the foam backwards and wrap tightly the foam to secure it. Cut the excess foam to expose the underwing.
7. Move the thread to the head position and tie down the foam to create the head.
8. Add a piece of green or chartreuse foam for high vis.
9. At the back of the foam below the wing, trim each corner to suit your taste. Legs can also be trimmed back and or knotted if desired. Add head cement to secure wraps.
Tied by Albatross
Hook: 2xl dry fly hook size range 4 – 12 (fly done in size 12
Thread: Yellow UTC 140
Underbody: Thread body / yellow
Over body: Two pieces cut to length / 2mm foam / black
Legs: rubber legs / black
Hair wings: light elk hair
Tail: light elk hair
1. Lay down a base of thread for the body.
2. Tie in tail.
3. Tie in foam facing backwards over the tail and advance thread to first segment location.
4. Fold foam forward.
5. Make a couple wraps of thread to define the first body segment.
6. Tie in hackle, legs, and hair wing (facing forward).
7. Wrap hackle and secure with a few more wraps, advance thread to the second segment location.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7.
9. Whip finish.
10. Trim front of foam and legs to taste.
Deer Hair Beetle
Tied by Flydog
Hook: 16 dry
Thread: 8/0 brown
Body: peacock herl rope
Legs: Ostrich herl / Black
Overbody: Golden brown deer hair
Cut and stack deer hair, tie in the butt end just behind the hook eye. Loosely wrap the thread securing the deer hair back to the bend of the hook. By loosely wrapping, you avoid the deer hair from spinning. Once the hair is secure enough, start wrapping tight to the hook shank. Tie in the ostrich herl just above the bend of the hook. Next tie in two peacock herls, then make a herl rope with peacock. Wrap the herl rope forward just behind the hook eye. Wrap the ostrich forward. Gather the deer hair…pull forward over the top of the hook shank. Tie off just behind the hook eye. Trim the deer hair tips to create a small head. Tie off.
This fly is not very durable…after a fish or two the deer hair starts to break loose. Coat the deer hair with head cement, this makes the fly more durable. Be careful not to get the head cement on either the peacock or ostrich herl.
Tied by Ian_Brown
Hook: # 16 standard dry
Abdomen: reddish brown fine poly dubbing
Thorax: reddish brown fine poly dubbing
Hackle: Olive grizzly, or whatever you have.
Tie in at the rear of the hook. Dub the abdomen alternating figure eight wraps and regular wraps. Wind the thread to one eye length behind the eye. Tie in about two inches of antron under the area where you will dub the thorax. Wind thread about a quarter inch up and down the post. Tie in hackle and wrap about three or four times around post, then tie down. Dub thorax. Whip finish. Trim hackle feather and parachute post.
Tied by PennsCreek
Hook: 14 2x length
Body: Black or brown foam
Legs: black rubber
Indicator: chartreuse chenille
1. Wrap thread from bend to eye.
2. Cut ¼” wide strip of foam ~2” long.
3. Apply head cement to first few inches of thread and cinch foam to hook from eye to bend.
4. Turn foam back towards eye and tie off first segment with 3 wraps of thread.
5. Tie in 2 rubber legs.
6. Repeat 4 and 5 towards eye of hook to make 3 body segments.
7. Tie in small piece of chenille for indicator.
8. Trim legs as necessary.
9. Fool Fish.
Tied By Bruno
Hook : Size 12 Dry Fly Hook
Thread : Red
Body : Red Chenille
Over Wing: White Deer Hair
Works well Tied with Green Chenille / Thread. The following link to a video shows the steps to tying the fly:
Tied by DJMyers
Hook: #12 standard dry
Body: Peacock herl, black and orange 2mm foam
Legs: Bear hair
Thread: black 6/0
1. Cut a strip of black foam about 1/4” wide. At one end cut to a point. Easier to tie on the hook.
2. Lay a thread base from eye to hook bend.
3. Tie on the black foam.
4. Tie in 2 or 3 strands of peacock herl.
5. Wrap thread forward to eye.
6. Wind herl forward and tie off with thread.
7. Tie in bear hair for legs.
8. Fold foam forward and tie in.
9. Cut small amount of orange foam and tie in.
10. Whip finish.
Tied by Plumbob
Hook: TMC 102Y size 13
Back and eyes: black foam
Body: Peacock Herl
Wings: Duck Quill
Legs: Black Deer Hair
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