1985 4Runner

New Motor , Header , Exhaust , Plenum Conversion , TrueTracs , V6 Brakes , Downey 3" Lift , Rancho Shocks , CB Radio , Sway Bar Disconnects , Kenwood Cassette Receiver , Bridgestone Dueler AT , Bumpers , Warn Winch , Auxiliary Gas Tank , Other Stuff
Our 1985 4Runner has been in the family since 1988. 1985 was the last year Toyota installed solid front axles and leaf springs in their USA trucks and 4Runners. It is also the only year trucks and 4Runners were available with both solid axles and fuel injection. Currently this truck has 224,000 miles and we plan on driving it a lot longer.



Improvements

New Motor

The old engine had 212k miles and consumed oil. The new motor was built in California by Tim Jenkins at DOA Racing and installed in April 1999. This motor is balanced and blueprinted. The head is ported/polished. Tim also installed his C270 camshaft and made other improvements to increase power. Tim says the motor will generate 150 horsepower (stock was 116 hp). Fifth gear is no longer a cosmetic decoration on the shift knob. It has become quite usable.

Doug Thorley Header

This header was installed with the new motor. After looking at headers from Downey, Northwest, and Thorley I settled on the Thorley. It is a tri-y smog legal header that should improve over-all performance and mileage. So far this header works nicely. The only problem I had was the pipe that connects between the header and the cat didn't line up. I took it to a muffler shop and they bent a connector pipe for me and welded it in. The header was purchased from The Dynoshop .

Exhaust System

After installing the Alcan springs in the rear we had a problem with the tailpipe rattled on the springs. With this excuse, I had the stock exhaust removed from the cat backwards and replaced with 2.25" pipe and a "turbo" muffler. The cat was also replaced with a performance, free-flow type. The increase in performance was very noticeable and significant. This upgrade really brought the DOA motor alive.

Late Model Plenum Conversion

Tim at DOA Racing did the plenum conversion on the Xcab. With the 4Runner I did the same conversion only I didn't use the 3mm over-bore throttle body. This conversion involves removing the upper plenum and throttle body and installing late model parts. Mine were from a 1994 truck. For this conversion you will need the upper plenum, throttle body, throttle cable, rubber connector hose between throttle body and cross-over pipe, and some small hot water hose (8mm, 5/16" approx.). The connector for the TPS will not connect to the late model TPS, so the TPS will need to be transferred from the old throttle body to the new along with the pawl underneath (older pawls are horizontal, newer vertical).

In addition to the boneyard parts listed above you will need to make a trip to your local dealer for some gaskets. Those include throttle body (22271-35020), EGR (25628-35020), middle intake (17176-35020), and cold start injector. You may also need a vacuum plug if your throttle body has 4 vacuum ports.

This conversion allows the removal of the Air Flow Valve that attaches to the lower plenum. Just unbolt it and disconnect the harness and hoses. The existing lower hot water hose will connect to the bottom of the late model throttle body. The upper hot water hose should be replaced unless you are lucky enough to receive the molded hose from the boneyard. The EGR valve will bolt up in the old position on the back of the plenum. The cold start injector tube will need to be bent slightly so it bolts up.

One instant change that is noticed is the warm-up behavior. It does idle up nicely and the idle comes down real smooth as the truck warms up. There is also a nice increase in power.

Detroit TrueTracs and 4.56 V6 Differentials

After running 32" tires on the 4Runner for around 13 years I finally decided to regear the diffs and install a traction device. I purchased from a local boneyard a pair of rear V6 third members with 4.56:1 gearing (axle code 254). Before I installed them I had a local shop setup Detroit TrueTrac limited slips in them. While not lockers, they have made a significant and noticeable difference in traction. The regearing also seemed to help. The speedometer is now right on and I'm shifting less on the hills. It also helped off-road.

Land Cruiser Vented Rotor/V6 Brake Upgrade

I did this conversion in the xcab too, only this time I used the V6 vacuum booster with the master cylinder. This conversion involves using vented front rotors from a 1982 Land Cruiser along with calipers, master cylider, and booster from a V6 truck. In my case the 1" master cylider and vacuum booster came from a 1990 4Runner and the calipers came from a 1994 xcab pickup (both 4x4). During the research I noticed that 4Runners of the same vintage used a different brake pad. I don't know what the difference is, or if the calipers would have worked. I did know that V6 trucks from 1988 thru the Taco used the same brake pad so I went with calipers from the truck. I knew those would work.

Ok, the headaches. As with the xcab the dust shield needed to be ground on the lower edge to clear the caliper. In addition, the top edge needed some grinding too. For the sender on the master cylider I cut the connector off the lid and crimped on some 1 /4" male spade connectors that plugged into the existing harness connector. I only had one brake line that was difficult to hook up. The others were no problem. The biggest problem was clearance between the booster and the steering coupling. I had been warned that the vacuum booster was larger in diameter (it was taller too). It was tight and I've heard of others just notching the booster.

I noticed in the boneyard that steering columns on IFS trucks used a smaller u-joint on the coupling. Since I wanted to add a tilt column with intermittent wipers I purchased a boneyard column from a 1986 truck. After installation I found out the steering shaft from the gear box to the column was too short by about 2-3 inches. I went back to the boneyard and picked up the matching shaft and it fit, though tighter than in the IFS truck. The old 1985 rag-joint coupling with the larger u-joint was longer than the IFS coupling, and did fit, but was very tight. I'm currently using the smaller IFS coupling.

The results? The braking has been significantly improved. The pedal is firmer and the truck stops much easier. I did leave the rear brakes alone, though doing the swap in the rear is an option. The brakes on late model trucks use larger drums. The easiest way to accomplish this swap is to purchase the entire axle and swap. The IFS rear axle is wider than the 1985 axle which would stick the tires out from the fender well. The solution is rims with 4 inch backspacing, but this was an additional expense I didn't want.

3" Suspension Lift

There are two kinds of lift out there . . . suspension and body. They both have applications but only a suspension lift gives better off-road performance. Body lifts look good (usually) and allow for larger tires. But they don't give greater wheel travel which is important if the trail gets uneven.

Right after we purchased the truck we installed the Downey lift which included four new leaf springs. These springs gave the truck 3" of lift. A concern voiced in Toyota circles was the durability of Downey springs. After 150K miles, the rear springs had sagged, and were replaced with Alcan springs. The fronts appear to be holding the lift.

The Alcan springs are a custom spring made by a shop in Colorado. They are trully a custom spring. When I ordered the springs, I told them I wanted a spring that would give 3" of lift, that I carried 275 pounds of camping gear, and that I had a 14 gallon auxiliary gas tank. The springs they provided are stiffer than the Downey springs with the truck empty. I haven't loaded the truck yet to see how they ride loaded. There are 7 leaves in the pack, compared to 3 in the stockers and 4 in the Downeys.

For shackles I'm using 3" longer-than-stock shackles from Advanced Off-Road in the rear, and 1" longer-than-stock shackles from Downey in the front. When I had the Alcan springs made I didn't compensate for the bumper which lowered the rear end half an inch.

Shocks

Recently installed were Bilstein shocks in the rear. The ride is far superior to the Rancho. Because Bilstein doesn't make a shock for lifted Toyota trucks I am continuing to run the RS9000's.

We used to have two flavors of Rancho shocks on the 4Runner. In the rear were RS5000 which were ok when the truck was loaded with camping gear. Empty they were just a little stiff. The front shocks were adjustable RS 9000's (RS9115). After I installed the rear Bilstein the ride was much better and I didn't realize the RS5000's in the rear were that stiff. The ride with the Bilsteins in the rear and RS9000's in the front was very nice.

CB Radio

We frequently travel with friends and find the CB radio to be a very useful tool. We communicate about trail conditions, discuss natural history, keep the group together when going through Mexican towns, and keep folks from getting dropped when machines fail or get stuck.

It's a Radio Shack TRC-418 that we purchased in 1988. We selected this radio for several reasons including cost, simple features, and size. This radio is mounted on the bottom of the accessory tray in the center console, where it installed very cleanly. The antenna is a fiberglass whip on a ball-n-spring assembly attached on the driver's side rear quarter panel. Yes, drilling was required, and I've never had a problem with that. It was mounted on the drivers side so when the whip was hit by trees it tightened on the ball instead of loosened.

Persson Sway Bar Disconnects

Drew Persson of Persson Offroad Systems makes a set of stainless steel disconnects that are as attractive as they are functional. These disconnects allow the sway bar to be disconnected when off-roading, significantly improving front axle articulation. Why would you want to? Because the function of the sway bar is to keep the front axle parallel with the chassis. Cornering on paved streets this is an advantage. Off-road the sway bar will limit wheel travel and continue it's attempt to keep the frame and axle parallel, a disadvantage. Drew no longer makes disconnects.

Kenwood Cassette Stereo

When we purchased the truck (used) the previous owners had installed a rather cheap stereo system. We pulled the receiver out and installed a Kenwood KRC-2004. The stock front speakers were also removed and Pioneer speakers took their place in the stock location.

Bridgestone Dueler AT Tires

I've been running Bridgestone Dueler AT's since 1984 when I installed them on my old 1982 short bed. They have been very good tires, getting long miles (up to 80K), with only a slight "sing." The tread is just a bit more aggressive than the BFG's. They pay off in the dirt and rocks. I've probably put 300k miles on these tires between the three Toyotas. Since I've had excellent luck with the Bridgestone's I haven't dared try another tire. You could say I'm as loyal to the Dueler AT as I am to Toyota.

The tires are mounted on American Racing Outlaw II wheels with 3.75 inch backspacing. This places the inside of the rim right up against the ball-joints. In fact the rubber on the joints rubs slightly on the rim. This keeps the wheels inside the fenders and the truck clean. The tires only rub in the fenders when new.

Bumpers and Nefts

Newsflash
The Smitty in the rear finally is gone! Installed is a new bumper from Stout Equipment, and this time it has the tire carrier.

I still have Smittybilt on the front and sides of the 4Runner. They are moderate-use bumpers that have protected this truck from trees, rocks, and collisions. Smittybilt is not the best out there. Their finishes don't hold up well and the bumpers will rust easily. In the case of the front winch bumper, we had to have the bumper mounts re-welded and the frame mounts replaced. The steel cracked and welds broke. So far the repairs have held up.

The Downey Off-road pre-runner rear bumper we used to have was not tough enough and rusted. In addition, it blocked access to the spare tire, requiring partial removal of the bumper to drop the tire. After a few years we installed a Smittybilt receiver bumper. This bumper gave us more protection, plus the towing receiver, used to pull out Fords, Chevys, and Jeeps. One problem we had with both bumpers was their tendency to shift. This always took the paint off the tailgate and we had to make sure to jump on the bumper before dropping the tailgate.

Of course the Smitty has been replaced with the Stout Equipment bumper pictured. True to the Stout name this bumper is serious steel and will not shift. The swing out tire carrier allows us to run a full size spare. Since I didn't need the extra gas capacity, I had Stout install a rack for an ammo can instead of the 5 gallon gas can. Stout Equipment is now out of business. For Stout products contact Steve Hinken at Hinken Specialty Fabrication, 505/203-4639. Steve has the Stout jigs and can fabricate most of the Stout line.

Warn 6000 lb Winch

Mounted on the front Smittybilt is a Warn 6000 lb winch. The winch has only given us one problem. While winching out a stuck Ford I couldn't get the clutch in the free position and we had to unwind the cable with the motor. A little oil dripped under the lever when I got home solved the problem. The clutch release is made of plastic and I was afraid of breaking the lever, something I take exception to in off-road equipment. This winch has had no problem getting us and others out of jams.

13 Gallon Auxiliary Gas Tank

Of all of the modifications we have made to this truck, the auxiliary gas tank ranks at the top. This tank gives us a 600 mile highway radius and makes gas anxiety a thing of the past. We just don't worry about it traveling or off-roading. This tank also proved useful while traveling in Baja where fuel is scarce and not dependable.

The tank was very easy to install. It mounts below the truck bed above the spare tire. The spare is removed along with the brackets and the tank is bolted to the frame. The spare then cranks as usual to the bottom of the tank serving as a skid plate. The fuel from the auxiliary tank gravity flows into the bottom of the stock tank via the drain plug. Other hoses attach to the emission system. This keeps the gauge at full for a long time. The gauge then drops slowly to 3/4 tank, then drops normally from there down. The tank fills from it's own filler neck in the wheel well. Stock suspension trucks with large tires may have a problem accessing the filler neck, especially when loaded. A suspension lift is highly recommend to solve this problem and lift the spare tire off the ground, improving the departure angle.

Other Stuff

Magnicor Plug Wires
  • Installed on the drivers side was a grab handle. I picked one up at a boneyard, with screws, and installed it in a few minutes. I also installed a grab handle to the passanger side back seat.
  • The cool red Magicore 8.5mm spark plug wires are held in place with the LC Engineering billet wire loom.
  • Truck is cooled with a three-row cored radiator, Modine model 1R2041. This radiator fits tight against the front crossmembers.
  • Electrical power for this truck comes from an Optima "red-top" battery.
  • Installed a dash clock from a 1987. Purchased from Tap Recycling. Should have done this a long time ago.
  • Installed a two compartment, "high elbow" center console from a SR5. Nice, very nice.
  • Installed a SR5 dash from a 1987 truck that has full gauges (water, oil, charge) and a tachometer. This was a straight bolt in. I only needed a new oil pressure sender.
  • Installed a tilt column with intermittent wipers from a 1986 4Runner. Also required the wiper relay and steering shaft.
  • The winch is wired to a switch inside the cab. No more cable over the hood.
  • TRD Accessories : Leather shift knob, billet oil filler cap, tail gate emblem.

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