Mar 14 2004 - Continuing with the baffles, I made the doublers for the cylinder air blocks. The three holes will be used for two sets of safety wire to tie the front and rear together.

I'll place a #8 washer over the doubler to keep the safety wire from sawing into the aluminum. The rivets are AN470AD3.

Here the safety wire is installed and the washer acts as a hardened doubler.

Up front, I left the floor bracket long and attached a #8 platenut to the back side. This was a convenient point to clamp down the wire coming from the Lightspeed crankshaft sensor.

I went ahead and installed the temp raisers even though the instructions say to add them only if needed. Much easier to just snip off some material if flight tests indicate the need rather than having to fab these at that time.

Mar 16 2004 - I finished off the basic fit on the RH side. All the clips, angles, and doublers are riveted together and everything deburred. I'll add the heater duct flange and blast tubes next.

What I ended up with on the RH front. The only remaining task as far as fitting these is the front inner wall where I'll pobably fiberglass in the inlet ramp gap so it makes a smooth tranisition to the cowl. I'll then trim the baffles as was done elsewhere. Pics as I get there.

Jul 3 2004 - I fabricated a piece to bridge the setback for the oil cooler where the airseal mounts. This way I can go straight across with a single piece instead of making the jog at the corner. The part is .032 with the bottom folded under to seal against the back wall.

A side view. The angle matches the baffle angle at the center, so it goes further aft as it moves outboard. Here you can see the floor as well.

I installed the airseal on the baffles, only the lower cowl lip pieces remain. I also added hi temp RTV to seal the gaps. Not much left to do....

The additional piece made this aft airseal much easier than bending yet another corner and there is no restriction to the oil cooler.

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