Apr 7 2004 - I laid 3 layers of 8.8oz cloth and then used peel-ply to make the inside smooth. Here is a shot after I chipped out the foam, set the gap at 1/4" as directed, and cleaned up the inlet duct. I'll add a layer of cloth around the front to the cowl the next time I mix up some epoxy.

The duct smoothly transitions into the cowl lip.

A hard shot to take - the 1/4 gap is pretty even all the way around and the duct makes an almost perfect transition to the FAB al around (minus the top outside corners where the FAB has 90 degree corners). It looks like the duct on the RH side is too wide, but that is just the camera angle - the seal should fit very well.

Apr 25 2004 - I set about fitting the rudder bottom after having installed a 1/8 aluminum ring with tapped holes to attach the tail light/strobe. I started with a poster board template since cutting the fiberglass is hard to judge as the part will not fit until it is already cut.

The template made the cut fit pretty good.

I then added a doubler plate to join the halves.

And finally fit the front half of the fairing. It is all set to epoxy glue and rivet in place.

Here is the fairing after installation and prior to the finish work. I used epoxy and thickened it up some with Cabosil. I'll probably coat over the pop rivets on the inside where the front and rear halves join with Proseal so that the light wires do not chafe.

An even gap all around the rudder horn. The gap will be filled, covered with gass cloth, and finished smooth.

May 2 2004 - I finished gluing and riveting the tips on. The rudder needs a little more work, but all other empennage tips are done. I was going to glass in the seam, but it came out pretty even that I decided to leave it alone.

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