The Model: Tuscarora Railroad #1, the Allison is a live steam locomotive. Unlike #2 and #3, which are battery powered with radio control, #1 is fired by butane, which heats water in the boiler to create steam. This steam then runs through the cylinders just like her full sized counterparts. The starting point for this locomotive was an Accucraft "Ruby," an inexpensive 0-4-0.

The original locomotive, prior to any modifications. -Accucraft Photo

Inspiration: I'm not the kind of person who buys a locomotive for what it is, rather for the potential I see in it. When Accucraft announced the Ruby, I immediately put my name on the waiting list. This looked to be a wonderful entry level locomotive with a lot of kitbashing potential. For under $400, anything has a lot of potential, but Ruby looked to be a solid performer. I didn't really know what I was going to do with this diminutive 0-4-0, but I figured inspiration would strike soon enough.

Lahaina, Kaanapali & Pacific ordered this locomotive from Keystone Light Railways for their operations in Maui. It's seen here on the East Broad Top Railroad in Orbisonia, PA, undergoing testing before being sent west. - William Metzger Photo

I found the inspiration in a back issue of the Friends of the East Broad Top's magazine, the Timber Transfer, of which I am the editor. The prototype for my model evolved from a 1940's vintage 0-4-0, built by H.K. Porter for the Carbon Limestone Company. It was rebuilt into a 2-4-2 by Keystone Light Railways in 1970 for the Lahaina, Kaanapali & Pacific Railroad, a tourist operation on the island of Maui, Hawaii. Keystone Light Railways tested the locomotive on the nearby East Broad Top Railroad before shipping the locomotive off to its current home in the Pacific.

Since this was a locomotive that did at the very least run on EBT rails, I figured it fit within my general rule that anything that I build has to be somewhat related to the East Broad Top. The story of the Tuscarora Valley's #1 (a Porter 2-4-0) being extensively rebuilt at the EBT's shops into a 2-4-2 fell neatly into place. There is historical provenence for such a locomotive on the EBT, I just back-dated history 64 years. Add to that the parallel that the Accucraft Ruby is an 0-4-0, being rebuilt into a 2-4-2 like the LK&P loco, and it's an even more fitting conversion.

Construction: The first step with the locomotive was to strip down everything that I didn't want. This meant losing the cab, side tanks, and front and rear end beams. What was left was nothing more than a boiler sitting on a chassis--about as basic of a locomotive as you can get. From here, the locomotive took shape. The finished locomotive measures 23" from the pilot to the rear of the tender. It has shrugged almost every resemblance to its prior life. It is important to note that this modification was almost purely cosmetic. I made no significant changes to the mechanics of the locomotive, its valve gear, or the boiler. In fact, there were only two subtle changes made. First was the addition of a "Goodall" valve to the boiler. This is a water filler plug that replaces the factory water plug. The Goodall valve allows the operator to add water to the boiler while the locomotive is under steam. This allows for longer runs, and keeps an ample supply of water in the boiler at all times. The second modification came to the safety valve. The original safety popped off at around 20 PSI, which made for a weak running locomotive when trying to pull a train up a grade. I followed the advice of fellow steamer John Thomson, and stretched the spring out to 3/4". This raised the boiler pressure to around 40 PSI, which gives the locomotive a good bit more life. There are other third party safety valves you can buy for the Ruby, but this was certainly the cheapest option. (The boiler has been tested to pressures well in excess of 40 PSI with no problems, so there is no safety risk in replacing or modifying the valve. Just remember not to put your face over it when it pops off.)

What follows here are some notes, tips, and techniques I used in building the Allison. While I didn't use any really special tools for this project, there were a few things that have proved to be necesary for any such undertaking:

A good set of small box and hex-head wrenches. Make sure you have a 3mm wrench there, as all the nuts and bolts that come with the Ruby are that size. (I lacked one, so I made a 3mm box end wrench out of a piece of brass.) Also, whatever size you need for your 2-56 and 0-80 hex-head screws.

2-56 tap - I use 2-56 screws for any mechanical connections that have to be structurally sound. (frame extensions, cab floor, pilot beams) Being able to tap into the existing frame components or new pieces is essential, and a good tap will do you a great service.

0-80 tap - The 0-80 screws hex-head screws are used in places where the joint doesn't have to hold the weight of the locomotive, but still needs to be sound. These small screws have the scale look that is desired, without sacrificing the strength needed to keep things together and stand up to wear and tear.

A good set of drills. SHARP drills. The sizes you would need for something like this would be ranging from #60 to #40. Did I mention sharp? You're drilling into metal. Keep the speeds on your drill press or Dremel tool slow. Real slow. High speeds will dull a bit quiker than, well, you get the idea.

A tool called a "Nibbler." I don't have a picture of it, and I should. It's a hand-held tool for cutting printed circuit boards. They can be found at any Radio Shack. It's great for making complex cuts in brass sheet, especially round cuts where tin-snips won't work. Also works great on styrene, such as when you realize you built your tender tank 1/4" too high, and you have to cut off the bottom.

A lathe - I throw this in here only because allowed me certain freedoms in decision making. I turned the smokestack from aluminum, and was able to modifiy the domes a bit to allow for a retaining fitting to be secured. It's not necessary, but if you have a friend who has one, stock up on the beer.

Hole saw - "WHAT? " you ask? Those things that you use to cut out holes for doorknobs, etc. The reason? You're going to need to sand the base of the domes to allow them to sit flat on the boiler once you've lagged it. You can use the hole saw to make a 2" dia. drum sander which makes this job very easy. Trust me here - it's worth the time.