68 Mustang - Progress 14
April 19, 2008
Here are a few more pics.
Haven't done much for a while as I was waiting for Orville to
call me to finish the work he started but left unfinished. I decided to
get some estimates from a couple of local places: Maaco = $2662 to paint w/
minimal body work, Midwest Custom & Collision $2500 to mask and paint.
For $100 MCC cut & welded and prime the rust on the right front fender and
dropped off for them to strip and prime the tail light and head light
extensions front lower and upper valance, quarter reflectors, headlight rings
and front turn signal pieces that go in the lower valance that MCC is doing
for $121. I stripped and primed the rear valance myself. Both of
them have some dents but the metal was good and since it's not in an obvious
place I just decided to use them as is since this is just for a driver anyway.
I started to strip the rust by the rear light and found it was previously
repaired on the right rear where they overlapped the repair and the puttied
the entire back panel quite a bit. I'm thinking hard on just having MCC
do that also. Glenn the owner seems to be a pretty nice guy and they
have over 3000 colors in stock to choose from where Maaco has about 300.
I may try to get one more estimate before I finally select where to get it
painted. I know that Maaco's best job (highest cost) is about $600 with
a 5 yr warranty, but that's only masking and taping. Maaco's got a bad
reputation for cheap paint, but MCC has only been on business for 1 year and
the other place I'm thinking of has been there for 3 years. Maaco's a
national brand so if I don't like the work I can always keep taking it back,
but as the saying goes... you get what you pay for makes me think I should
avoid being too cheap. I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulater on the rain
gutters, cowl drain hole, wheel nut tool, signal backing can, tail light
backing can, fender patch and anywhere else I could see that needed some extra
protection. I also sprayed undercoating on the fender patch underside.
I'm putting the fender back on now, but trying to figure out how to wire the
antenna in place to assist with reattaching it later without having to remove
the fender.
keiken01@comcast.net
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