Sportster Tips

http://www.scientificsonline.com/ part #CR30812-37, $9.95.

Wouldn't it be cheaper if you got the Green Light Trigger (http://www.greenlighttrigger.com/) it's only 8 bucks and they pay shipping.

=====
Erik
98 XLH 74ci Evo
93 ZJ 318ci V-8 Up Country
01 WJ 242ci I6
http://swanboy.8m.com
Baton Rouge, LA

Rake and Trail

From: "Maurice Riggins" <maurice.riggins@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Front Wheel Trail
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 18:56:56 -0500

Draw a line through the steering head until it intersects the ground. Now go back to the point directly below the axle, which is the center of the tire's contact patch. The distance between where the steering head line intersects the ground, back to the center of the tire's contact patch is the trail.

Raked trees change the angle of the forks with respect to the steering head. When you move the wheel forward with raked trees, the center of the contact patch gets closer to the steering head line and the trail is reduced even though you are increasing rake.

AND, if you don't lengthen the tubes OR drop the rear end, you get hit with a double reduction in trail because the front end drops, relative to the rear, and the steering head line moves back (gets steeper) toward the contact patch further reducing trail.

Harley wanted a really raked out front end, but to do so would make the V-Rod steer very slowly due to the huge amount of trail. And they want a performance-image bike, including handling, so they used the trees to reduce the trail and make the bike turn quicker.

Weerd Brothers had a great site explaining all this with drawings, but it looks like they don't have the weerdbros.com domain anymore.

--
Maurice

More Rake and Trail

From: "Maurice Riggins" <maurice.riggins@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Triple Tree for Sporty
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 19:19:28 -0500

The Weerd Brothers site was a lot better and had illustrations that applied to real world bikes... not just 45 degree choppers. But using this...

The top picture shows forks raked out relative to the steering head (i.e. with trees) Note that trail has been reduced so much that it's negative (the contact patch is ahead of the steering head angle). This front wheel is gonna gyrate like one of those bad grocery cart wheels.

The next picture shows normal trail... but I'd keep it between 4-5"" if you're around 30 degrees in the steering head.

The bottom picture, too much trail, we'll use as an example of the V-Rod without trees. Now if you angle the forks out and leave the steering head line alone, the trail will decrease... i.e. the contact patch will get closer to the steering head line and the bike will turn quicker.

Kennedy's stuff is good for frame-raked choppers. It's the wrong stuff for someone trying to turn a steep headed FXD into a Wide Glide or kicking out an unraked XL.

There's another company that makes a whole setup for getting more rake without reducing trail. It mounts in the steering head and essentially gives you another steering head angle that works with their trees to keep your trail but gain rake... and it's available with up to 10"" over forks. A guy on YSOC put it on his bike, http://profiles.yahoo.com/renegade1200

--
Maurice

Even More Rake and Trail

From: "Michael Friedrichs" <mike_fr1@txucom.net>
Subject: Re: Front Wheel Trail
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 23:16:27 -0600

I assumed the line of projection was always down the axis of the fork tubes. Garth Hoard informed me that the line of projection is always down the steering head, thanks Garth. Now it all makes sense.

Mike Friedrichs
Montgomery, Texas

Still More Rake and Trail

From: "David F." <davef24@snet.net>
Subject: Re:raked trees
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 22:24:40 -0400

Dave F.
1999 XLH 883
davef24@snet.net

Will This Rake and Trail Madness Never End?

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:51:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Zooey <chopzooey69@yahoo.com>
Subject: Chopper Math by Zooey, part 1

Hi Eric,

(since this reply has turned into a book, I'm also sending it to the list)

First the bad news, if longer _and_ lower is what you want, there is no "safe" way to do that without either chopping the neck to increase the factory 30 rake, or putting on the only alternative I'm aware of, which is the Seeger chopper kit that also increases the neck rake, but by bolting on a "virtual" neck instead of cutting and welding a real one.

Nothing against Moose, but my formula, which correctly predicted the trail of my finished project within the margin of error when measuring the actual bike, and also will spit out 4.6865" when I put in the stock XL-Custom rake of 30.1 degrees (per HD) and the stock fork length, says there's no way he's got more than 3 inches of trail. It depends on many factors, most particularly the exact offset measurement of his triple trees, and to a lesser extent the exact amount of nose-up tilt his bike has, but with the most generous numbers, my formula says he's under 3 inches. The only way he could have measured exactly correctly (which I'm kinda doubting he did) is to put the bike together, then jack it up and lower it until the frame is barely touching a block, but not putting any weight on it, and so the bike is sitting straight-up-and-down, then center the fork so that the wheelbase measure exactly the same on both sides, then draw a line on the perfectly flat and level floor where a weighted sting passes straight down through the center of the front axle, on both sides. Now secure the bike so it cannot roll even a hundredth of an inch, best to draw another line someplace as a reference point, then jack it up, take apart the front end, and lower the bike back onto the block, so that the steering neck is exactly the same distance above the ground. Now, stick a homebuilt measuring rod into the steering neck, which fits snug in the bearing races, is perfectly straight, and has a sharpened perfectly centered point at the end on the ground. Then measure the distance between that point and the first line you drew. Done carefully, this method of measuring should be accurate to within a few hundredths of an inch. No, I didn't do this. I did what he probably did which is eyeball a long straight-edge to be parallel _alongside_ the assembled steering neck. Every tenth of a degree off (invisible to the eye) equals a tenth of an inch on the ground. Throw in the fact that the bike is tilted over sitting on it's sidestand, the ground is probably not tabletop flat and perfectly level, and the front wheel is in the way of where your straightedge wants to go, and in my opinion, if you had one hundred different careful and meticulous guys make this same measurement, you would get a range of results within plus/minus a half inch or so. You add Moose's personal unconscious desire to see a larger measurement, and there is the discrepancy between what my formula and his tape measure say. Anyway, supposing he's only got 2.7" trail. If that's "bad" is debatable, I have read in several different places that the absolute minimum amount of trail is 2 inches. But, since even something as radical as a 2-stroke 500cc Bimota race bike has 3.5" of trail, and most factory "cruisers" have more than 5", you can see that it's not a very large range to play with. Almost every article I've read about building choppers they tried to achieve 4 inches of trail. It's the agreed-upon best compromise between easy handling and freeway stability. I'm sure Moose's bike handles and feels very well. Whether he has "too little trail" will only be determined by whether he ever hits a bump just the right way at high speed and suffers a tank-slapper. Probably never. There's a lot of factors involved, like how much weight is pressing down on how many square inches of front tire contact patch, and how much friction is in the steering neck bearings...all these things determine how much of an oscillation can be absorbed by 2.7 inches of trail. The wide-glide puts the weight farther apart, which helps, too. Like the arms of an ice-skater.

Anyway, to continue to refer to Moose's bike, the rear is about as low as you can get it with rear suspension. 11 inch progressive 412's bottom out at 9.2 inches full compression (according to their employee on the telephone), which would leave about 1/2 inch between the tire and the fender, which is why people say you should relocate the wires. I also dremeled off the wire attachment things on the underside of the fender and shortened the seat-attach bolt thing and rounded off it's edges. That's what the tire will hit, if it ever did hit anything. If you also put White Bros lowering blocks on, the tire will hit before the shocks bottom out. Of course, you may never hit a bump that big. Anyway, with the rear end basically as low as it can go, the only other way to increase the nose-up tilt of the bike, and therefore the "effective" rake angle of the steering neck, is to lift the nose of the bike up above stock ride height. Which is what Moose did with the longer tubes, his front end is about 1.8 inches above stock, I'm guessing. It's an educated guess. Going up in front and down in back gives him a nose-up tilt of maybe 3 degrees, for an effective rake angle of about 33. I'm guessing his 6 degree Rizoma trees have a 1.4" offset, which is what my SJP ones have and appears to be about as small an offset as they could get. The top stem bolt is under the backside of the riser, and the hole on the front for the wires is right up against the top stem bolt, and is just exactly wide enough for the deutsch connecters to squeeze through, and leaves a bridge of aluminum on the front about 3/8ths of an inch, probably just thick enough to suit the engineers. So, I doubt anyone makes them with an offset of less than 1.4" The less the better, for raked trees. Stock triple trees have 2.7" offset, reduced offset reduces wheelbase, raises the front of the bike, and most importantly, increases trail.

So, if you want to get longer, you cannot also go lower. What Moose has done is really the only way you can increase the wheelbase significantly (without also raising the front of the bike quite a bit more than he did, which is what would happen with stock-type zero degree triple trees and the longer tubes. But, then, you would also get more than stock trail.) as I was saying, what he has done (lower rear, raise front) is the only way to do it without actual cutting & welding, or going with the Seeger kit. He could say his trail is adequate and the nose-up tilt is not very noticable.

I wanted to keep at least 4" trail, I wanted the bike to be longer AND lower AND sit level, and the only way to do that (other than the damn ugly Seeger kit, I keep having to mention...no affiliation) was to have a professional chop/weld my neck. (to sum up for those joining us mid-program, my bike has a total 44 degree rake, 38 in the neck, 6 in the trees, "4" over tubes, 11" PS rear, 67" wheelbase, and 4.2" trail...calculated. I measured 4.5" trail by the eyeball-and- straightedge method.)

Now, to finally answer your actual question, if you put on a 5 degree wide glide kit with the stock front tubes, your front end would sit about .8"" lower, which should be close to level and give you a 1.0" longer wheelbase and leave 3.0" trail. This is _if_ your selected wide-glide trees have offset reduced to 1.4". If the offset is stock 2.7" or so, then the wheelbase goes to 62.1, the front height drops to 1.6" lower than stock, but the trail shortens to 1.5". So you can see, the KEY measurement which has the biggest effect on everything else, is the offset. Which, just in case you're asking, is the distance between a line drawn from center to center of the fork tube holes on the upper triple tree, to a parallel line drawn through the center of the steering neck axis, or stem. My opinion is, you should just save up, bite the bullet, and do it right with experienced motorcycle frame-shop help. If there's no "chopper" shop around, find the guy who welds aluminum race-bike frames for a living. If he can do that, he can do a steel street-bike safely. The reason I advocate chopping, is that if you want it "lower and longer" you're just not going to get the visual effect you really want any other way. You'll spend almost as much money on the project (without the $600 chop job) when all the receipts are added up (mine total $2200 so far) but you won't get hardly any "lower and longer" within the constraints of a 29.6 degree neck. (XLC models have .5 nose-up tilt, therefore HD says 30.1 You didn't think they actually built two different XL frames, did you?)

Don't ask me to teach you the formula, yet. It's too complicated. I can fly through it now, 'cause I've done it a million times. I'm working on a program to automate the whole thing. You put in the measurements, and it spits out the wheelbase, height, and trail.

--Zooey

Accident Avoidance

Reply-To: "Mike Novogradac" 
From: "Mike Novogradac" <laptop@onceforall.com>
Subject: Re: High Mileage
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:00:24 +0900

If you could change your way of thinking, you could think like this instead: More ride time equals more experience "avoiding" mishaps. Mishaps can be avoided by riding smartly. These are just some of the habits I've developed while riding, I remain mindful of them continually, and I think they are smart things to consider:

1. While following a cage, I am far enough back that I can stop if he stops. If another car pulls in between, I drift back from that one so I can stop if he stops. I also drive in the left side of the lane, so he can see me in his rear-view mirror and left side-view mirror. On-coming cars can see me too when I'm in the left of the lane behind a car in front of me.
2. I get the attention of cage drivers. I drive with a headlight modulator and one of those brake light modulators too. I also get their attention by blowing the horn and waving. I wave to their kids so kids in the car can say to the driver, "Hey Mommy, there's a motorcycle." I'll do a lot of things so cage drivers know I'm there. I never get impatient and pass the driver who looks like he's lost -- he'll only want to make a left-hand turn without signaling as I'm passing -- that's inevitably Murphy's Law in action.
3. When red lights turn to green, I don't try to get through intersections first. I let the car next to me take off first, and I go through beside him, and I try to be in the left-hand lane, rather than the right. The car beside me protects me. The car beside me at the intersection always knows I'm there, because I do things to let him know I'm there. Same holds true when going through an intersection when the light is green -- I make sure I get near a cage, even if it means slowing down a bit -- the cage will protect me since chances of someone doing a left hand turn across the lane in front of me are less when I'm next to a cage. The simple fact is that cage drivers are looking other cages, not motorcycles, so if I'm next to a cage through an intersection, my survival chances have just increased. But I never speed up to get next to a cage when going through an intersection. And I NEVER increase speed when going through a green-lighted intersection -- that's just dumb.
4. I never think I am invincible while on a bike, and I lay off the heroics. I don't try to impress anyone with speed or sound or fancy maneuvers. Concentrating on riding safely helps one to ride safely. Next time you cut yourself shaving, pause and think what you were thinking about when you cut yourself. Bet you weren't thinking about shaving. Always thinking about that safe ride and anticipating what other drivers are capable of will keep you safe. If a rider gets on a bike thinking he's taking chances with his life, he probably is.

What you've said is that if you ride less, your chances of having an accident are reduced. You certainly can't be more right than that, I suppose, Phil. Me? I want to ride more because I think more experienced miles is what keeps me safe, and that's the other side of the coin.

I don't claim to be the best rider around, and while I'm learning all the time, I'll also read anything about riding safely, even if I've read it before. In the Army, we have one great training philosophy that keeps the basics of anything we've ever learned intact -- it's called "familiarization training." That means training on the same tasks even though we've trained on them hundreds of times before -- it leads to mastery and total proficiency. On some military installations, the Advanced Motorcycle Riding Course is provided on base for free, and it's mandatory, because we soldiers are essentially government property, so they want us to be trained well, even at motorcycle riding. Michael Jordan didn't become the greatest basketball player because he's a natural -- he constantly practices the basics and continually familiarizes himself with his sport. You can't become an excellent rider by thinking that if you ride less, your chances of an accident are reduced.

V/R
Mike Novogradac

Loud Horns

From: "Bob Lloyd" <blloyd@uneedspeed.net>
Subject: DUAL HORNS
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 06:52:16 -0700

The horn installation is complete. There's no doubt I can break through the sound barrier of the soccer mom in her SUV, window rolled up, stereo on & a cellphone in her ear. Like a parachute, I may never have to use it, but if I do, I want it to be a good one.

They're matched (left and right are mirror images), HI tone and LO tone, rated at 138 decibels each. From Checker Auto, I also got a small (about 1 inch cube) 30 amp relay and an inline fuseholder, a second rubber mount & chrome acorn nuts from Harley dealer, "L-brackets" from hardware store and cable clamps from NAPA.

I clamped the assemblies in the middle of the downtubes; the horns rest just below and just behind the top bar of the engine guard, with clearance from the fender on a braking dive. All solderless connectors are covered with black shrinkfit tubing, all bare metal is rattlecanned black, so it's really a stealth installation. You hardly notice they're there....until you push the button.

Pics at http://www.geocities.com/az1200s/horns.html

Peripheral Finding: just GOT to get a decent digital camera.

AZ Grampy & "Ernestine" 97 Patriot Red 1200S in Payson, AZ NOT gonna
behave like one o' them a$$holes who use their horn to let everyone
know how they feel...  just 'cause I can....

Fat Tires

From: "Art Northrup, Jr." <Jake@tntie.com>
Subject: Tire sizes
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:55:35 -0500

Periodically, someone asks how big a tire they can use & generally, a 140 is the biggest for belt-drive & a 150 for chain-drive w/o modifications. But, since I've been corresponding with a Sportster rider on that very topic and have my Metzeler book handy, I thought I'd post the actual measurements so you can grab that tape-measure & check for yourself when it's time for tires.

I know there are a lot of riders other than me who use Metzelers & the measurements below are for the ME 880 "Marathon" Touring/Cruiser series. Although tire manufacturers use the same size designations, the actual measurements are different, but not drastically so (usually). All of the sizes listed fit stock Sportster wheels.

    Front:

        100/90/19       108 mm wide x 674 mm tall
        (stock size)    (4.25" x 26.54")

        110/90/19       116 mm wide x 686 mm tall
                        (4.57" x 27.01")

        80/90/21        80 mm wide x 693 mm tall
        (tube-type)     (3.15" x 27.28")

        90/90/21        96 mm wide x 708 mm tall
        (ME 33)         (3.78" x 27.87")

    Rear:

        130/90/16       137 mm wide x 646 mm tall
        (stock size)    (5.39" x 25.43")

        140/90/16       146 mm wide x 665 mm tall
                        (5.75" x 26.18)

        150/80/16       153 mm wide x 660 mm tall
                        (6.02" x 25.98"")

The 140 with belt-drive requires the removal of the center section of the mud-flap on the lower belt-guard (ask me how I know) & the 150 won't fit with belt-drive, period.

Now, if you're a "canyon carver" & don't care that much 'bout mileage, the the 33 front / 55 rear series is just the ticket, but those sizes ARE substantially different. You can ping me off-list if you want info on those.

- Art    ('95 XLH - the blue one)
         ('00 XLH - the black one)
         LSR Team
         Lake Norman, North Carolina

Bright Lights

Subject: Re: Headlights
From: Jim Edwards <smackme@hardwaregroup.com>
Date: 30 Jan 2002 19:06:23 -0500

After all that talk about headlights a few months ago I went out and got a PIAA Xtreme White bulb. WOW!!!

I agree with you Bruce. The pics I took of before and after does not do this lamp justice. URL for you that are new to the list or didn't see them the first time. -> http://www.hardwaregroup.com/~smackme/photos/index.pl

The ambient light that this bulb puts out to the sides is excellent. The high beam would put an econo box two lights to shame. While cruising these last few warm days into the evening, it is nice seeing the white flying saucer 30 feet up the road. This bulb (until there is better) should be added to the "taxes paid" list. If you are using stock... Get this bulb and you will never go back to stock. Ever.

Bright Lights

From: "Greg" <gregandjulie@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: PIAA vs Sylvania
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 21:06:44 -0600

A month or two ago we had the headlight thread of the PIAA extreme white($40) versus the Sylvania VisionPlus bulbs($15).

At the time, I had a PIAA superwhite 80/80 in Sweetie Pie. ( I bought two for $20, closeout on CBTImports. com). It was definitely much better than even the 85/100's I had been getting from a local HD dealer. It finally burnt out. I installed the Sylvania VisionPlus 55/60.

Interesting comparison between the two. IMO, the Sylvania is the better bulb. It doesn't seem to blind people up close and is more effective in distance illumination. The Sylvania doesn't seem as bright as the PIAA. The PIAA seemed to "fry" cages in front of me at stoplights. Almost daylight illumination immediatley in front. It bothered cagers(some covered or turned their rear view mirrors.) As I said the Sylvania doesn't do this strong illumination up close, but it is better(IMO) at distance illumination than the PIAA. Not intense illumination, but farther reach than the PIAA, bigger spread and better contrast at distance. Sylvania claims a 10 to 20 meter longer beam. From my experience, I believe it.

While I don't have a PIAA extreme white to try for comparison I'm not even tempted to spend the $40 to try. I'll stick with the Sylvania. I got mine from powerbulbs.com.

Hope this helps someone.

Ride safely.

Bird
95 883 Sweetie Pie
rideshomeinthedark division

Tail Lights

From: Ron Kimball <ron@frodo.com>
Subject: Speakin' o' bulbs...
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 08:18:41 -0500

I compiled this a while back for another list. These are all tail light bulbs. There are more that one kind of H1157 (halogen) bulbs around, just one is listed. Note that folks have melted plactic housings with the H1157 bulbs, Caviat Emptor! The 2357 is a good "upgrade" over the stock 1157...

These all fit the standard socket:

#	Filament	Volts	Watts	Amps	CP	Life
2057	Low		14.0	6.86	0.49	2	5000
	High		12.8	26.88	2.10	32	1200
1034	Low		14.0	8.26	0.59	3	5000
	High		12.8	23.04	1.80	32	200
1157	Low		14.0	8.26	0.59	3	5000
	High		12.8	26.88	2.10	32	1200
2397	Low		14.0	6.72	0.48	2	5000
	High		12.8	28.54	2.23	40	400
2357	Low		14.0	8.26	0.59	3	5000
	High		12.8	28.54	2.23	40	400
H1157	Low		14.0	15	1.07	25	400
	High		12.8	50	3.9	107	400

Small Helmets

From: George White <GWhite@brassring.com>
Subject: RE: Helmet Help
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 12:21:18 -0500

What is the lightest weight beanie helmet or half helmet.

DOT approved, very light and comfortable. I have one and love it...

FWIW,
George
'01 XL1200S
SF Bay Area

Helmet or Not

From: "Maurice Riggins" <maurice.riggins@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for a lid !
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 09:22:06 -0500

Here's my thoughts since we're doing the winter helmet thread...

No helmet looks good... but that's not the point of a helmet... especially in a helmet-free state like Iowa.

Beanies don't do anything for you... why bother wearing them in a helmet-free state?

Most half-helmets make you look like a mushroom-head, they act like a parachute pulling on the chin strap, and they actually increase the wind noise around your ears... this applies to all half-helmets... police style, etc. And anyone who thinks the small, thin beanie-like DOT helmets protect as well as the mushroom-style are just fooling themselves.

The German helmet beanies just make you look like a wannabe outlaw... while the larger DOT versions look like a nerdy wannabe outlaw.

The 3/4 helmets protect more of your head (except your face) and are quieter, but like full-faced helmets need good ventilation. Yeah they're big... and they make you look like Gold Wing riders.

The helmet to have, especially if you're a new rider, is a well-ventilated, white Snell-rated full-faced helmet. If you're gonna bother to wear a helmet, wear a good helmet. A full-face keeps your face (and glasses if that applies) dry in the rain and you don't feel the needles of the rain drops. It keeps bugs out of your mouth. I've had a huge grasshopper explode on impact on my face, and the goo gets up under your glasses, and in your nose and mouth... not to mention hurts like hell... but not as bad as the rock off a truck tire I took in the face that cracked a cheekbone. It's also the warmest thing you can have on your head in the winter. As far as looks... a full- faced helmet makes you look like a knowledgable motorcyclist.... unless it's done up in flourescent color graphics, then it makes you look like a sport bike rider.

Contrary to the pseudo-science spewed by anti-helmet groups, a full-faced helmet doesn't increase the risk of injury, reduce your peripheral vision, or even your ability to hear things around you. The real science shows helmets save lives and help prevent injuries... that's why racers use them.

Go buy a watermelon at the grocery. Hold it up over a concrete driveway about shoulder high and drop it. That's your head hitting pavement without a helmet.

Black helmets may look cool, but they're hot in the sun... ventilation can't overcome that. White or light colored helmets reflect the heat back out and make you more visible to others.

I go lidless most of the time... but you won't find me preaching anti-helmet pseudo-science to new riders. To me riding with a helmet is like having sex with a condom... it's better than nothing, but it takes away from the experience. Even in a monogamous relationship, you're taking a risk having sex without a condom... there's a chance your partner could be cheatin' on ya... but in most cases the risk is low. I've been ridin' about 40 years and think my own risk level for needing a helmet is low... but I know my head's gonna probably explode like that watermelon if I ever go down. In either case, sex or riding, if your number comes up, you need the protection and don't have it, the results can be deadly. I chose to take that risk.

Hope this helps,

-- Maurice

The Mythical 5 Gallon Tank

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 11:07:42 -0400
From: TheRodMan <TheRodMan@hotpop.com>
Subject: 5 Gallon Sportster tank

Marje scribbles: "I've heard of a 5-gallon Sportster tank that looks almost exactly like the stock Sportster tank, just on a larger scale. And it tapers the same way near where the seat is. Anyone hear about this tank, and know who makes it? I would like a bigger tank than my current 3.3 gallon, but I really like the look of the Sportster tank."

This thread goes around often enough that it should be included in the urban legand list. No Marje, I'm afraid theres no such thing (at least not that I've seen). I know they are advertised in the '00 an later catalogs. The reasons Harley advertises them is beyond me but I've heard stories from "they can't make them leak proof" to "they're afraid that Sportsters would sell better and take away from BT sales". What I really don't understand is why they keep advertising them. Speaking of which, does the FAQ list get updated and if so how? Submit them to Doug? Like I said, this would make an excellant candidate. Just my 2 cents worth.

Best,
Rod

Some Truths from Down Under

Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 09:50:45 +0100
From: "Dries 'Doris' Bessels" <dries@driesbessels.com>
Subject: Australia Biker Truths !

• Midnight bugs taste Best.
• Saddlebags can never hold everything you want, but they can hold everything you need.
• Wear heavy boots. You can't kick things when you're wearing runners.
• NEVER argue with a woman holding a torque wrench.
• Routine maintenance should never be neglected.
• It takes more love to share the saddle than it does to share the bed.
• The only good view of a thunderstorm is in your rear-view mirror.
• Never be afraid to slow down.
• Only bikers understand why dogs love to stick their heads out car windows.
• Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory.
• Never ask a biker for directions if you're in a hurry to get there.
• If it takes more than 3 bolts to hold it on, it's probably crucial.
• Remember that you will be judged by the Horse you ride.
• Don't ride so late into the night that you sleep through the sunrise.
• Pies and coffee are as important as petrol.
• The number of kicks it takes to start your bike is directly proportional to the number of spectators.
• Never ask your bike to scream before her throat is good and warm.
• Sometimes it takes a whole tank full of fuel before you can think straight.
• If you want to get a job, you may have to compromise your principals. You may even have to shave.
• Riding faster than everyone else only guarantees you'll ride alone.
• Never hesitate to ride past the last street light at the edge of town.
• Never mistake horsepower for staying power.
• A good rider has balance, judgment, and good timing. So does a good lover.
• A cold hamburger can be reheated quite nicely by strapping it to an exhaust pipe and riding forty kilometres.
• Never do less then forty kilometres before breakfast.
• If you don't ride in the rain, you don't ride.
• A bike on the road is worth two in the shop.
• When you look down the road, it seems to never end but you better believe it does.
• Young riders pick a destination and go. Old riders pick a direction and go.
• Overconfidence can be supplied by spare spark plugs, a set of spanners, and a roll of toilet paper.
• Advice is free and worth every cent!
• Sometimes the fastest way to get there is to stop for the night.
• Always back your bike into the curb and sit where you can see it.
• Work to ride - Ride to work.
• Whatever it is, its better in the wind.
• Two lane blacktop isn't a highway -- its an attitude.
• Good coffee should be indistinguishable from 50 weight motor oil.
• A biker can smell a party 5,000 km away.
• Keep your bike in good repair.
• Motorcycle boots are NOT comfortable for walking.
• People are like motorcycles: each is customised a bit differently.
• More races were won in the tavern than on the track.
• Never loan your bike to someone else, and never ride another's.
• If the bike isn't braking properly, you don't start by rebuilding the engine.
• Remember to pay as much attention to your partner as you do your carburettor.
• Sometimes the best communication happens when you're on separate bikes.
• Well-trained reflexes are quicker than luck.
• The best alarm clock is sunshine on chrome.
• Learn to do counterintuitive things that may someday save your arse.
• Beware the biker whose ink peels off.
• If you really want to know what's going on, watch what's happening at least 5 cars ahead.
• Don't make a reputation you'll have to live down or run away from later.
• Smoke and grease can hide a multitude of errors, but only for so long.
• A friend is someone who'll get out of bed at 2 am to drive her/his Ute to the middle of nowhere to get you when you're broken down.
• If s/he changes her oil more than s/he changes her mind -- follow her/him.
• The thicker your oil, the hotter you can take it.
• If you want to get somewhere before sundown, you can't stop at every tavern.
• Hunger can make even road kill taste good.
• You gotta be smart enough to understand the rules of motorcycling and dumb enough to think the game's important.
• The older I get, the faster I was.

Dries 'Doris' Bessels                           Ride to work, work to ride
Amsterdam, The Netherlands                      FLSTC '00 (Yellow)
E-mail : Dries@DriesBessels.com                 http://www.driesbessels.com
Freedom isn't Free!                             ICQ : 134590934

The Biker's Creed

From: "Bob Lloyd" <blloyd@uneedspeed.net>
Subject: Re:  : bikers creed
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 23:12:59 -0700

The Biker's Creed

I ride because it is fun.

I ride because I enjoy the freedom I feel from being exposed to the elements, and the vulnerability to the danger that is intrinsic to riding.

I do not ride because it is fashionable to do so.

I ride my machine, not wear it. My machine is not a symbol of status. It exists simply for me, and me alone.

My machine is not a toy. It is an extension of my being, and I will treat it accordingly, with the same respect as I have for myself.

I strive to understand the inner-workings of my machine, from the most basic to the most complex.

I will learn everything I can about my machine, so that I am reliant upon no one but myself for its health and well being.

I strive to constantly better my skill of control over my machine. I will learn its limits, and use my skill to become one with my machine so that we may keep each other alive. I am the master, it is the servant. Working together in harmony, we will become an invincible team.

I do not fear death. I will, however, do all possible to avoid death prematurely. Fear is the enemy, not death. Fear on the highway leads to death, therefore I will not let fear be my master. I will master it.

My machines will outlive me. Therefore, they are my legacy. I will care for them for future bikers to cherish as I have cherished them, whoever they may be.

I do not ride to gain attention, respect, or fear from those that do NOT ride, nor do I wish to intimidate or annoy them. For those that do not know me, all I wish from them is to ignore me. For those that desire to know me, I will share with them the truth of myself, so that they might understand me and not fear others like me.

I will never be the aggressor on the highway. However, should others mess with me, their aggression will be dealt with in as severe manner as I can cast upon them.

I will show respect to other bikers more experienced or knowledgeable than I am. I will learn from them all I can. However, if my respect is not acknowledged or appreciated, it will end.

I will not show disrespect to other bikers less experienced or knowledgeable than I am. I will teach them what I can. However, if they show me disrespect, they will be slapped.

It will be my task to mentor new riders, that so desire, into the lifestyle of the biker, so that the breed shall continue. I shall instruct them, as I have been instructed by those before me. I shall preserve and honor traditions of bikers before me, and I will pass them on unaltered.

I will not judge other bikers on their choice of machine, their appearance, or their profession. I will judge them only on their conduct as bikers. I am proud of my accomplishments as a biker, though I will not flaunt them to others. If they ask, I will share them.

I will stand ready to help any other biker that truly needs my help.

I will never ask another biker to do for me what I can do for myself.

I am not a part-time biker. I am a biker when, and where ever I go. I am proud to be a biker, and hide my chosen lifestyle from no one. I ride because I love freedom, independence, and the movement of the ground beneath me. But most of all, I ride to better understand myself, my machine, the lands in which I ride, and to seek out and know other bikers like myself.

AZ  Grampy   &   "Ernestine"
97 Patriot Red 1200S in Payson, AZ
Never Let A Day Go By...

The Evils of Synthetic Oil

From: "Brad Litz" <hulkss@mn.rr.com>
Subject: The "Truth" about Synthetic Oil
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:20:35 -0500

Beware of synthetic oil, it can do terrible things to you and your beloved motorcycle. It will not only leak out of your engine faster than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication system. Your piston rings will never seat and you'll burn more oil than gasoline. It also will make every part of your bike permanently slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action. Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract automatically, dropping your bike on the ground! But that's not all...

Synthetic oil will round off your sprockets and spin your bearings. It will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off in the apex of a turn and she'll never ride with you again. Synthetic oil coats your timing window with a whitish pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak onto the ground overnight and your dog will drink it and die.

Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full leathers on and then jam your zippers shut. It will contaminate your gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. It will make it rain during rallies and on weekends. It will slicken your timing gears causing them to jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically weakens valve train parts and causes the clearances to change every six miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots right before you walk across your new carpeting.

While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time. It also causes your swingarm to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp, and then it voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555. It also dries out your wetclutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your clutch cable fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good measure.

Synthetic oil hides your 1/2 inch socket and puts superglue on your earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your faceshield and make your gloves shrink two sizes the night before trackday. Synthetic oil stole your neutral and sold it to the Chinese for $1.25. Synthetic oil will make you grow a tail. Synthetic oil will write long crazy e-mails to your Internet friends and then sign your name at the bottom!

Brad XL1250R

The Benefits of Synthetic Oil

Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 04:52:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Moshe K. Levy" <moshe_levy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil test (long)

--- Michael Kunze writes:

But most listers are changing their oil (the oil in the sportster, o.k?) after some 2.500 miles or latest after one year. So, I think, the big advantage of long lasting oil (syn. lube) won't be used. It really make sense to use syn. oil if you change the oil every 10.000 to 18.000 miles. Otherwise it is wasting oil and, of coarse, money.

1) "Most" listers change more often than the recommended intervals to be "on the safe side." Obviously, after losing 30% of its value in 3k miles, doing so (with conventional oil) is a good thing. If it's true that synthetic retains its lubricating properties almost 100% after 6k miles as the most recent thread claims (and I believe it), then there is no need to change at 2,500 miles to be "on the safe side." You can change at 5k. As proof, take a look at any vehicle that comes standard with synthetic oil and check out the oil change intervals. Typically 7,500 miles with conventional, and typically 15,000 miles with synthetic. My 2000 328i didn't call for an oil change for the first 20k miles!

Nobody can argue this - and if they try, I want specific proof (i.e., copy from an owner's manual of a recommended maintenance schedule, not some bullshit rumor the guy heard from the local oil salesman) of similar vehicles with similar timetables for oil changes.

Thus, given what we know about how long you can safely wait before changes using synthetic, your first point is moot.

2) Cost: Let's say you want to use synthetic AND STILL change at 2,500 miles, just to be extremely anal about it. I routinely buy Mobil 1 15W/50 at KMart on sale for LESS than the stealers charge for HD360, an vastly inferior product. Make no mistake - you CAN get the superior product, at a lower price to boot. Thus, your second point is moot as well, as no money and no oil is wasted using synthetic if you buy it at same or lower cost.

Put this in the archives so I can read it in a few years: In a few years, the MoCo will do a 180 degree turn, and tell you that they have a "specifically formulated" synthetic oil made just for their V-Twins (probably just rebadged Mobil 1 for $10 per quart). At that point, the same people that run the marketing rumor mill ("bearing skate," etc.) now will tell you then that synthetic is the way to go. And once they are given permission to use it, the sheep crowd will follow right along....

-MKL '98 1200C

Oil and Filters

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:58:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Crim <gwcrim@yahoo.com>
Subject: WTF, let's start an oil thread!

It's been at least a couple of days since the last one. Here's a VERY interesting article:

http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html

Nothing specific to HD oils, but it sure does bust some pretty nasty myths.

FYI: I am using bargain basement oil during the break in on Diablo Debbie. Only because I don't want to run $6 a qt. oil for only 500 miles and then dump it.

Also... I am now using an oil filter that fits most Ford and Chrysler V-8s. A Fram PH8-A or it's equivalent is probably twice the size of the HD units and half the price.

=====
~Crim~
Diablo Debbie - '99 1200 Sport
Roadkill - 1650cc Bonneville record holder
PLEASE support the Sportster List Race Team
http://lsr.sportster.org

Alternate Oil Filters

From: "B/C Nelson" <bcnelson@silcom.com>
Subject: Re:  Fram it and oil temp
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 08:46:50 -0700

This was posted on the list several months ago.

A number of folks on the Buell list (American Thunderbike) are running:

• Motorcraft FL-1A filter
• PureONE PL10241
• Purolator L10241
• AC PF53 /ACDelco UPF53
• Fram PH3614 (According to our data, 9-12 is the pressure relief valve setting (PSI) for the PH3614, PH3600, and the PH6022)
• Motorcraft FL-793
• Napa 1348
• Wix 51348
• Bosch 3430

You might want to consider trying the FRAM PH6068 filter. I've been using it for a while on my bike (a 1200). No need to paint it, because it's chrome. Same diameter as the OEM filter, but almost 6 inches long.

Chris N.
'76 XLH/XLCH
'97 Suzuki GSF-1200S
'78 Honda CB400T (another project)
Orcutt, CA

Replacement Tires

From: "Café Bill" <cafe883@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: tire recommendations.....
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 20:16:50 +0000

The question is: what tires have been put on Sporty's that are capable of carving curves??

My personal favorite is Bridgestone's BT-45V. (Do not get the H rated version. The H uses a harder tread compound.) Very solid grip with an unbelievable increase in turn-in and feel. These tires make the Sportster come alive in the corners. The equivalent Metzelers and Dunlops (which I have also tried) do not provide nearly the same grin factor. I've averaged about 8000 miles of a set. YMMV.

As Fred X1 would say: "two kevlar clad thumbs up".

Café Bill
'98 S3 Thunderbolt
'95 XL 883 café racer in Ziploc hibernation
'92 Seca II

Avon Tire Sizes

Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 09:42:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Gordon Horwood <gozo@rocketmail.com>
Subject: AVON REAR TIRE/TYRE SIZES

I am a little behind in reading my posts and have noticed a few emails about rear tyre sizes.

I am posting this for reference. These measurements come from the Avon tyre fitment data brochure. Measurements are in inches.

	Tyre                Overall   Diameter
			     Width
	ROADRUNNER (AM21)
	130/90H 16           5.4       25.6
	MT90-16              5.4       23.6 ( misprint ? )
	230/60H 15           9.0       25.9

	SUPER VENOM (AM18)
	150/80V 16           6.2       25.4
	MT90-16              5.2       25.0
	140/70V 18           6.1       25.7

	VENOM-R (Valkyrie fitment)
	180/70R 16           7.1       25.9

	VENOM (AM42)
	150/80 16            5.9       25.4
	140/90B 16           5.8       25.5
	160/80B 16           6.6       26.2
	MT90B 16             5.2       25.2

	TRACK FORMULA (AM23)
	140/80VB 16          5.9       24.9
	150/70VB 18          5.9       26.0
	160/80VB 16          6.5       25.6
	180/55VB 18          7.0       26.3
	180/60B 16           7.0       25.0
	200/55VB 18          8.1       26.2
	200/60B 16           7.8       25.8

As you can see some 150 section tyres are the same width as 140s ! So you pay your money and take your choice !

I have no affiliation with Avon tyres and post this for reference only. If you need any other info ping me offline, there are other sizes listed but these are the ones I thought were most relevant.

=====
gozo
1988 883/1200 Sportster
UK lister - Watford Herts
Don't forget the UK Website - http://www.sportster.org.uk/

Types of Heads and Valves

Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 18:35:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Zooey <chopzooey69@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: HD/Vance Hines Drag Bike

That would be a flat-head, also called a side-valve. But, I guess they are "below the heads". Our sportsters have four cams because their ancestor, the model K, had flat-heads. Instead of push-rods riding on the cams, the valvestems themselves rode on the sides of the cylinder, on top of the cams, and were pushed straight upward into the combustion chamber to open.

The head was basically just a finned slab bolted on top of the cylinder. The original reason they designed four cams was to enable a flatter head (and therefore a higher-compression ratio), because the intake and exhaust valves went up and down pretty much parallel on each cylinder, instead of angling away from each other like on the single cam models. Side-valves or flat-heads is the way they did it back in the old days. When the new technology of putting the valves up on top came along they called it "over-head valve OHV". Then, later they eliminated the push-rods by putting the camshafts up there and called it "over-head cam OHC".

"Under-head cam" is not really a term in wide usage, usually people call such an engine a "pushrod engine" or else just "over-head valve". I guess "under-head cam" sounded more nifty to somebody in the MoCo marketing department.

--Zooey
01XL74C

Quarter-Mile Times

Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 06:16:43 -0800 (PST)
From: "Moshe K. Levy" <moshe_levy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 883-1200c  vs  FXDX

Recently there was a thread about 1/4 mile times and such, which I promised to respond to with hard data. Well, here it is, from the 2-02 issue of "Motorcycle Cruiser" magazine...

	V-ROD                       11.92 @ 112.8MPH
	SOFTAIL DUECE               13.14 @  97.2MPH
	SPORTSTER 1200 SPORT        13.39 @  95.2MPH
	DYNA T-SPORT                13.68 @  94.3MPH
	ROAD KING CLASSIC           13.74 @  93.8MPH
	DYNA SUPER GLIDE SPORT      13.77 @  93.7MPH
	ROAD KING STANDARD          13.80 @  93.5MPH
	SPORTSTER 1200 CUSTOM       13.89 @  93.7MPH
	FAT BOY                     13.97 @  91.9MPH
	DYNA SUPER GLIDE            14.03 @  91.9MPH
	HERITAGE ST CLASSIC         14.28 @  92.2MPH
	ULTRA CLASSIC ELECTRA GLIDE 14.69 @  86.7MPH
	SPORTSTER 883 STANDARD      14.77 @  89.9MPH
	SPORTSTER 883R              15.63 @  83.3MPH

As you can see, bone stock FXDX vs. your bike, you would probably win - assuming equal rider skill. The difference in times is very slight, and your reaction time will determine your success more than your bike given this competition.

-MKL '98 1200C

Roadsters

Reply-To: 
From: "jrshaw1@bigfoot.com" <jrshaw1@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Roadster
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:53:10 -0500

Roadsters were made from 1979 to about 83-84. The 79 to 81 version, my '80 is in the xl-list boutique, had a 3.2 gallon tank. They made about 3000 in 80 I could look up other years, but the numbers were not big. Need more info ping me offline.

Jim Shaw
jrshaw1@bigfoot.com

More Roadsters

Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 00:23:04 -0500
From: Brian Ferguson <bferg@neo.rr.com>
Subject: re: Roadster

Production numbers for each year are at http://www.iusb.edu/~bbryner/hrlypage.html

Hope this helps,

Brian
'85 XLS Roadster - 1 of 616
'02 FXD - to be shipped today!

Air Cleaner Covers

From: Brian Muirhead <bmuirhead@ci.lenexa.ks.us>
Subject: RE: Alternatives to Ham Can air cleaner
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:13:45 -0600

Brian
Overland Park, KS
'99 883

From: "Scott Megna" <smegna@ccpi.net>
Subject: Air Cleaners by S& S
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:49:50 -0700

From: KerryBCoyle@aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 20:06:12 EDT
Subject: Technical Assistance/Information Requested

Thanks,
Kerry & Carolyn

2001 XL Sportster 1200 Custom - Diamond Ice
2001 Softail Deuce - Diamond Ice

Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 08:24:57 -0500
From: JB <jbalassa@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: steering head bearings

Julie K. Balassa
98 1200S - Boo! the black ghost
ride like you're invisible - to them, you are!
Don't forget to support the Sportster list LSR team!

From: "Richard Butville" <richdeerht@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pinging and N2's
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 10:43:35 -0500

Rich Deerhunter
'00 XLH 1200
Levittown, PA

Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 09:19:46 -0400
From: "john aka. red" <red883@optonline.net>
Subject: 10r12's New & improved spark plugs!!!
Message-id: <001801c1f5c9$df4a3aa0$2dbf2c18@oemcomputer>

ride safely, RED
Fairfield County, CT
99 883/1200 XLH std. w/ Wiseco 9.5:1
Motorbreath the corner carving tractor!
25,025
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/harley883sportsters
"going fast is easy, it's knowing when to slow down that's hard!"

From: "crash" <crash944@msn.com>
Subject: alternative to 10r12's
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 18:33:31 -0400

Crash

From: "Bill Steele" <wbsteele@mail.volusia.k12.fl.us>
Subject: Re: 10R12's UNAVAILABLE
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 10:41:43 -0400

From: "Richard Butville" <richdeerht@hotmail.com>
Subject: Plug #'s
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 08:13:59 -0400

From: maurice.riggins@att.net
Subject: Alternatives to 10R12's AVAILABLE
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 19:16:37 +0000

Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 10:32:48 -0800
From: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Subject: First Thousand Miles -- Top Ten Lessons Learned (part 1)
Message-id: <3CA604D0.A305B910@usc.edu>

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 11:28:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Crim <gwcrim@yahoo.com>
Subject: intake bolt alternative

=====
~Crim~
Diablo Debbie - '99 1200 Sport
Roadkill - 1650cc Bonneville record holder
PLEASE support the Sportster List Race Team
http://lsr.sportster.org

From: "Steve Lange" <steve@slangexpressions.com>
Subject: Re: xl & xlh?
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 07:14:00 -0700 (PDT)

... Steve

'95 XLH 883 Deluxe Sportster w/ Buddy up front
Nugget/Chrome Yellow

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 16:17:31 -0400
From: John Kodis <kodis@jagunet.com>
Subject: Re: xl & xlh?

-- John Kodis.

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 09:57:37 -0400
From: John Kodis <kodis@jagunet.com>
Subject: Re: XL vs XLH

-- John Kodis.

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:11:43 -0400
From: John Kodis <kodis@jagunet.com>
Subject: Tach installation on my 2001 XLH 883

From: NarleyHarleyGuy@webtv.net (Ridin' 4 Jesus)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 10:54:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Colors

Happy Hoggin'
TAC
Riverside, Ca.

Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 07:50:29 -0700
Subject: Packing a  Sportster/ Oil leaks
From: Arthur Hinckley <art.hinckley@kofc-supreme.com>

Art
90 XLH 1200 Black/Orange
92 XLH 1200 Black
Connecticut

From: "Andrew Robinson" <arobinson98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Kits/Packing for long trips (kinda long)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 15:40:41 +0000

From: "Dennis CB" <dencb883@hotmail.com>
Subject: sears bike lift
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:15:43 -0500

dencb
00 883/1200Y

From: "James Crispino" <jim1@mohawk.net>
Subject: Paint
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 00:05:14 -0400

Jim

The 2nd Amendment is the reset button on The Constitution

From: "Daniel Ratner" <daniel_ratner@myrealbox.com>
Subject: RE: reading
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:24:43 -0600

Dan Ratner
1993 883 - 'Black Rat'
Decatur, Alabama
daniel_ratner@myrealbox.com
http://www.steele.com/dan/

From: "Kerley" <kerley@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Evo CV Jet Sizes???
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:15:25 -0400

Kerley
2002 883 Custom

From: Robert O'Connor <sportybobo@chartermi.net>
Subject: Re: needle shim help
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 11:01:28 -0400

Bob O
2K Hugger > 1200 Lightning, likes the 48 slow jet better than the 45.
UP of Michigan

From: "Cherokee Ed" <cherokeeed@houston.rr.com>
Subject: For our Tachless 883 listers
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 17:42:42 -0500

Cherokee Ed

From: "Ranger" <Ranger@nesbeonline.com>
Subject: Seats and Lazyrider
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 20:56:25 -0400

Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 10:10:49 -0400
From: John Kodis <kodis@jagunet.com>
Subject: Re: New Sportster

-- John Kodis.

From: Jonathan_Malloch@providentcompanies.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:50:58 -0400
Subject: Front Fork Query:  Dyne fork caps vs. Air valve caps...

Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 16:27:02 -0400
From: Larry Reynolds <lreynol4@erols.com>
Subject: On moving the front Directional Signal Lights on my '99 XLC

--
Larry ("Weester")
1% Name: Ol' Knucklehead of the White Werewolves MC
A.R.S. K4MLA
Manassas, Va.
'97/'98 BikeE XL/AT ("Turtle", with 2 T-A)
http://users.erols.com/lreynol4/Me&MyBikeE.jpg
'99 XLC ("Mz. Piggy")
http://users.erols.com/lreynol4/smme&myharley.jpg

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 06:13:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Moshe K. Levy" <moshe_levy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: CV Carb Diaphragm

-MKL '98 1200C

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:58:36 -0400
From: Larry Reynolds <lreynol4@erols.com>
Subject: Re: LED Battery Gauge

--
Larry ("Weester")
1% Name: Ol' Knucklehead of the White Werewolfes MC
A.R.S. K4MLA
Manassas, Va.
'97/'98 BikeE XL/AT ("Turtle", with 2 T-A)
http://users.erols.com/lreynol4/Me&MyBikeE.jpg
'99 XLC ("Mz. Piggy")
http://users.erols.com/lreynol4/smme&myharley.jpg

From: "cunhel" <cunhel@attbi.com>
Subject: re: Indicator Lightbulbs
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 23:14:50 -0400

Al
'95 883
Billerica, MA

From: Sportstaer@cs.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:17:23 EDT
Subject: SPUR/new site

Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 17:18:08 -0800 (PST)
From: "Dale A." <damsden591@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: interesting racing forum

Dale A.
Rattler

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:10:27 +0200
From: "Dries 'Doris' Bessels" <dries@driesbessels.com>
Subject: Hee hee hee

CU
Dries

Dries 'Doris' Bessels                           Ride to work, work to ride
Amsterdam, The Netherlands                      FLSTC '00 (Yellow)
E-mail : Dries@DriesBessels.com                 http://www.driesbessels.com
Cellphone: +31-6-4402-8346                      http://www.flimm.com

From: "Joe I." <shakedown@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Hot XL - Tech & How-To
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 23:42:31 -0400

Joe

'02 XLH 1200
Melbourne, FL
http://community.webshots.com/user/shakedownfl

Date: 29 Oct 2001 22:12:27 -0800
From: Steve <steve@slangexpressions.com>
Subject: Motorcycle site worth visiting

... Steve

Steve Lange
'95 XLH 883 Deluxe
Nugget Yellow / Chrome Yellow

From: BoyettC@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 16:41:24 EDT
Subject: Esquire Feature Story: To Wave or Not to Wave

Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 09:06:50 +0100
From: Buddha <buddhanbones@libero.it>
Subject: Motorcycle Revving

Enjoy, and Happy Holidays!
Buddha

From: NarleyHarleyGuy@webtv.net (Ridin' 4 Jesus)
Subject: Best Bike Reading Material on Net
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 18:00:50 -0700 (PDT)

Happy Hoggin'
"TAC"
Riverside, Ca.