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<<< This is the start position -- what it is set at from the factory .

                      Pieces >>>

There are two notches that encircle the bolt, and one static hole .


At the notch positions, the bolt can rotate 360 , but can not move up or down .

At this point you will want to find where the two notches are, according to how far the bolt comes out for each position .   In between these two positions is where your static hole will be .

As you're looking at the lock, with the text 'Lunatic Lock' facing you . . .

. . . turn the lock to the right 90, so that the text is now vertical .   Get the pin into the top notch .

If these locks are all made the same, with the text oriented with the mechanism, this will be the correct position to continue on with -- the shorter end of the clasp pointing down .

However, because the text is stamped on both sides of the shell, through trial and error, you must find the correct orientation .

If the bolt is able to move freely in any direction, then your lock is in the wrong position .   Flip it over to the other edge, and work the bolt so that the sliding pin goes into the top notch .

At the top notch position, the bolt head should be approximately 10mm (or 3/8") out from the shell .

Flip the lock over to the 'wrong' side, to free the pin, but do so without tilting the lock horizontally, and causing your bolt to move sideways .   You just want to free the pin from the top notch .

Remember that there is very little material between the notches and the static hole, so that when you go to slide the bolt towards the clasp, slide very slowly and not too far .

  Turn the lock over to the 'good' side, and while holding both lock and bolt with both hands, carefully jiggle the whole unit sideways, up & down, front & back, jiggle the clasp and/or bolt . . . . . and you may even have to rotate the bolt and it slide back and forth (within the free area of the two notches) . . . . . until the pin finally finds its way to the static hole .   You'll know when it has, because then you won't be able to move the bolt any which way .

(this will be somewhere around 14mm). . . assuming all these locks are made to within the same close tolerances .   If not, you may have to experiment a little .   However, you're looking at very small differences regardless .

  Once you have established in what position the bolt should be after finally being able to get the pin to slide into the static hole, try to notice any imperfections there might be in the area of the bolt head, and memorize that position for future adventures; or even put a very tiny piece of masking tape oriented to where it would be best for you to remember .

Getting the pin to fully slide down into the static hole, and clear the clasp's longer end completely, may take a little more patience than the previous shenanegans .   You may want to just slightly tap on top of the lock (as it's on its side), and also jiggle the lock and the clasp -- all very gently .

If you tap too hard from the top, the pin may go down all the way immediately, but in that same split second, will bounce up slightly again, probably to its original position before you started tapping .   So, instead of giving a hard tap, better to give a series of 'baby-step' taps .   Probably quite a few before you finally reach Victory .

Good Luck !