DEVIL'S LOOP (WASHINGTON'S NORTH CASCADES)
WHERE: Take I-5 North to Highway 20 East out of Burlington. Follow the highway past Ross Lake to the East Bank trailhead just before the bridge crossing Ruby Creek. The trailhead is on your left. I did find highway 20 to be interesting
THE TRAIL: I would rate this as one of my three favorite backpacking trips of all time as far as scenery goes. I did this loop over 4 days in late September. Unfortunately the weather was not cooperative on the first 1 1/2 days. I arrived at the trailhead at about 3:30 to pouring rain. I put on my hiking gear and rain gear (which I usually don't wear even when it is raining) beginning the loop. From the trailhead you follow the East Bank trail about 3 miles before it reaches a junction with a short trail to Ross Lake. Stay right as this trail as it follows the East side of Ross like for several miles before you actually get close enough to see this huge lake in the mountains. Along the Lake there are several campsites which require reservations to be made at the Marblemount visitor's center. Some of these have Bear boxes to store your scented items including food. Ross Lake was created when the Skagit river was dammed first by the Diablo dam completed in 1936 then the Ross Lake dam which was completed in three stages between 1937 and 1949. This portion of the hike is not in wilderness as there are motor boats allowed in Ross Lake, however it is part of an area administered by the North Cascades National Park. I hiked about 8 miles in before breaking camp at May Creek.
On day two I awoke to more rain but there was a little let up this time. This day will include the most difficult portion of the hike. Since I was going to be hiking through wet brush and rain I put the same wet clothes on that I wore the day before in order to preserve my dry gear. After about 5 more miles along Ross Lake with many views of the mountains within NCNP you meet the Devil's Dome trail. Make sure you get water at Devil's Creek about 1 mile before the trail junction (the next water that was available at around the 4,000 foot elevation (in dryer seasons this water supply may not be available. After 1.2 miles the trail leaves the Ross Lake Recreation area of the NCNP and enters the Pasayten Wilderness in the Okanogan National Forest. From the point that the East Bank trail leaves Ross Lake to the top of Devil's Dome the elevation change is 5,400 feet (1600 feet at the lake to 7,000 feet of elevation on top of the dome). This elevation is gained in a straight shot as well without many switchbacks or flat stretches to ease the pain. Needless to say I came up with many recommendations to rename this portion of the trail, however I don't think the forest service would consider my emotional charged suggestions. I believe I also cursed the designers of this trail a few times also. Anyhow the occasional views toward Jack and Crater Mountains as well as the beautiful forest did make the hike easier. I also noticed looking west that everything was clear way out in the distance. The weather was coming from the Northeast and a reprieve from more potential rain did not look promising. There was two spots to refill water the first being at about 4,000 feet elevation and the second about 1/2 mile later. There will be no more water along the trail until the North Fork of Devil's Creek. I reached dry pass, which had a nice campsite just below some great views, in the late afternoon. Since I was tired and didn't know if there would be any decent camping spots near the peak of Devil's Dome or on the ridge beyond, I decided to make camp. I didn't feel like dealing with the hassle of cooking my noodles so I had a trail mix and dried fruit dinner before hanging food on a nearby tree. Upon exploring the area after setting up camp, there is a shelter down a short side trail just about 1/4 mile from the pass. The shelter is an overhang flat bunk style boards to sleep on. There is also rope in the shelter which I presume is to be used for hanging food.
The next morning I woke up to very cold temperatures and an overcast sky. I procrastinated in my tent for a long time before packing up and beginning the last 1,000 feet of climbing to Devil's Dome through fog, mist, and a little bit of snow flurries. There were no views as I was in a cloud so I continued on the south side of the ridge where things were beginning to clear up. In fact fifteen minutes after leaving the top I could see the dome free of clouds. Continuing on the ridge for about five miles before reach the next trail junction, the sky went from cloudy to mostly cloudy to partly cloudy. Although my original intent was to do a longer loop and the trail to Skypilot Pass or the PCT, I did not know how the weather would look tomorrow. After weighing out my options and taking into consideration my wet feet and somewhat gimpy knee I decided to stay on Devil's Loop. With hindsight I am really glad I mad that decision as the next 1 1/2 days offered excellent views of the Cascades along with beautiful sub-alpine parkland to stroll through. I decided to cut the day short after finding a campsite by the North Fork of Devil's Creek on the edge of the wooded section I was about to enter. For the first time on the trip I ate a hot dinner of Alfredo noodles with parmesan sauce. It tasted so good but I didn't take the time to relish it as I scarfed about 8 cups of noodles in minutes.
The next morning was the first that I greeted with open skies. The day starts with a 1,100 foot elevation climb followed by a slight drop than another climb of about 1,000 feet. This stretch of trail follows Jackita Ridge and offers gorgeous views especially at the peak of the second elevation hike. All around are mountains as well as the different hues of sub-alpine vegetation in the fall colors including the scarlet berry bushes and other schrubby plants. It was different from a wildflower display but just beautiful. Continuing on the trail it follows hillside meadows for a while before dropping down to Devil's Park. This park was a wonder in itself offering views of many glacial peaks as a backdrop for this flat meadow with little clusters of trees scattered around. If it weren't for the hike I would not have know I was 5,800 feet above sea level. There is a nice camp on the meadow with a shelter but unfortunately it was claimed by hunter. Apparently it is high buck season in this area. After leaving Devil's Park the trail passes through a nice forest of sub-alpine fir and Engelmann Spruce where the trees are plentiful enough to make a forest but spaced far enough apart to let the sun's rays inside. Before long the trail drops to McMillan Park and mostly skirts through the forest to the outside of the park. I cut my day short again just so I could spend one last day in the woods. I camped near the junction to Crater Lake where the sound of animals including the hoots of the Owls kept me company.
shrub bloom above Devil's park
I woke early and started down about 3,000 feet through constant switchbacks leaving the forest of White bark Pine, Engelmann Spruce, sub-alpine Fir and Yellow Cedar behind as I entered into the realm of the Douglass Fir, grand fir, Bigleaf and Rocky mountain Maples. I wanted to get done as soon as possible so I could explore a couple other sections of the park. The last three miles cruise along Ruby Creek and pass a couple of old cabins.
The trees on this loop contained Yellow Cedar, Western White Pine, Douglass Fir, and Rocky Mountain Maple at lower elevations with Sub-alpine Fir, Engelmann Spruce, Yellow Cedar, White bark Pine and some Larch on the higher elevations.