MARMOT LAKE

OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK

WHERE:  From Portland take I-5 north to highway 12 west to 101 north and follow signs to Olympic National Park.  As you approach Lake Quinalt follow the South Shore drive road in to the trail head at the end of a gravel road.  Make sure to stop at the first South Shore Ranger station in order to get backcountry permits and a Bear Canister if you are not using bear wire.

THE TRAIL:  Follow The East Fork of the Quinalt through beautiful rainforest and Lowland old growth to O'neil Pass trail about 16.5 miles from the trailhead.  Enchanted Valley is a good resting spot for the evening with beautiful views of waterfalls dropping from the cliffs overhead and Anderson Glacier hanging from its namesake's mountain further down the valley.  At the O'neil pass junction one can continue up to Anderson pass or take a right and head to O'neil pass which is the gateway to some beautiful sub alpine lakes.  After this junction the forest is montaine to sub alpine and full of black huckleberries and Cascade blueberries.  As you near the pass the berries are near the ground but ripen earlier due to some partial rain shadow effects.  The Red Huckleberries are prominent during the first 9 miles heading toward Enchanted Valley.  The huckleberries were very addicting and I found it hard to pass many of the bushes without stopping for a snack:  I probably could have saved few pounds of food weight if I knew about the abundance of berries.  After a few miles of traveling uphill at a very moderate gain the trail meanders through several rocky openings along the mountainsides.  There are some wildflowers here but the area consists mostly of rockslides,  no doubt ideal habitat for Marmots and Pikas.  The rocky terrain was a bit rough, especially if your knees and feet are a bit worn.  There are also many views looking down the valley of the Quinalt's East Fork.  O'Neil pass is approximately 4500 feet in elevation and looks down upon the basin that seats Marmot Lake.  There is bear wire and a nice camping spot on a ledge that overlooks the headwaters of the Duckabush river. 

There is a trail that will take you to Hart lake and LaCrosse Lake from hear but there is no bear wire that I am aware of at these two lakes.  I have also receive many reports from hikers passing by of Bear hanging out around these lakes.  The campsite at Marmot lake, up by the bear wire, offers great views of the valley containing the Duckabush headwaters.  On my way back I ran into a photographer who had been hiking around the area taking pictures.  This was only about 1/4 mile from where I camped.  I later read a trip review from the same person on the same hike who reported seeing several bears including one that he saw taking a swim in Marmot Lake just after passing me.  He also saw several bears as he began his trip starting from the Southeast side of the park.

As I headed back over the rocky terrain there was a magnificent view of the East Fork Quinalt Valley which included Anderson's glacier above the Enchanted Valley.  To the west, further down the valley, there was a layer of clouds/fog that had crept up the valley to approximately pyrites creek.  Not long after I video taped a Blue grouse in the brush.  less than twenty minutes later I saw a bear walking up the trail toward me.  I first saw it out of the corner of my eye and instinct thought it was a horse as one does occasionally pass an equestrian in the valley.  I of course looked up to acknowledge a new trail acquaintance when I realized it was a Black Bear.  When you are tired it and looking at the ground these mistakes happen as only movement is registered while maintaining a focus on one's own path.  The bear stopped to nibble some huckleberries that where inches above the ground.  I had a camera in one side pouch of my pack and a camcorder in the other:  I wanted to get the camera thinking I would only have time for a quick picture as the bear was thirty feet away if that.  With my nerves elevated a bit I reached into the right side pouch and pulled out a camcorder.  Since I was in focus mode I went with it turned the power to on, where the camcorder made a beeping noise which the bear either did not hear or ignored.  As I aimed it toward the bear, my new acquaintance began to walk toward me with its eyes on the huckleberry feast.  This made me a bit nervous so I decided to say "hi there" allowing the bear to be sure of my presence.  The bear then rose its head, took about two seconds to recognize me, then trotted away downhill.  After watching my video I realized I was nervous by the fact that my camcorder shot up to the trees as I said "hi there".  I have to admit I was proud of the composure I kept to actually get my camcorder out and capture about 8 seconds of video with a black bear so close.

I camped about 1 mile above Enchanted Valley on the last day.  My final big present was a herd of Elk that I spotted about 1 mile below Enchanted Valley very early in the morning.  I also watched a family of 4 Blue grouse near O'neil camp:  They seemed unconcerned with my presence.  The Enchanted Valley area is probably my favorite spot I have been to as far as wildlife and scenery.  Four times here and I have seen Elk on three occasions and Bear on three of the trips.  The only exception was hiking with my nephews when it rained the whole time and we did not make it close to Enchanted Valley.