RUCKLE RIDGE
WHERE: From Portland take I 84 to Eagle Creek Recreational Area exit just before Cascade Locks. Park in the picnic area where you will see a sign for Gorge trail #400. Follow this trail past Eagle Creek campground and soon you will follow a paved path to the trailhead.
THE TRAIL: This a very steep trail that takes you up 4000 feet in 5 miles. In fact this is the third steepest Gorge hike after Mount Defiance and Nesmith point (when going up from Nesmith Point trail and not Oneonta). The trail starts off going up a what seems like an elevator shaft, very step with a few flatter spots as well as some disconcerting downhills (which means more uphill to make up). After the trail reaches its first gorge viewpoint it remains relatively level for awhile before going up a very steep and long elevator shaft. The last steep spot is relatively small but is disheartening since you feel like you are on the plateau but not quite as you hurl up another few hundred feet (legs already feeling like rubber at this point but you will soon be there). The trail offers a few nice views toward the Gorge before it tops out at Benson Plateau is large and relatively flat table high up in the gorge covered with Mountain Hemlock, silver fir and Noble Fir. It is roughly 4400 feet in elevation. This trail starts off with fairly thin trees compared to much of the Gorge area. The creek also lacks the number of Red Cedar and Western Hemlock (though you will find yellow cedar near the top and in avalanche chutes) often found in the gorge creek valleys while containing a lot of Oak. Soon you will be on one of the few flat areas in the heart of the gorge. Make sure to bring a map so you can navigate the spur trails that were used long ago by sheep herders. You can also take a lunch break and meander these flat trails covered by Mountain Hemlock and some large Noble Firs.
If you stay on Ruckle Creek trail you will cross the creek after the first crossing of Benson Way. Next you will pass the Benson-Ruckel trail before crossing a trail which was not marked leading past Benson Camp to the Pacific Crest Trail. When I only saw a sign for Benson Spur, I kept on the same trail for another 1/2 mile to Benson way (which can be taken back toward the Gorge crossing Ruckle trail and then back to the Pacific Crest Trail closer to the Gorge). You can also take Benson Way trail the first time you cross it and remain on that trail until you reach the PCT. Within a half mile of hiking the PCT you will see the Eagle-Benson cutoff trail right behind a small campsite (Camp Smokey). This trail goes steeply down a ridge into the Eagle Creek valley. You will travel through several stands that have been recent victims of forest fire providing several views into the heart of the Columbia Wilderness including both the Eagle Creek and Opal Creek valleys. Head back to the parking area via the beautiful Eagle Creek trail. If you have time hike up the Eagle creek about a mile to see Tunnel Falls.
RUCKEL RIDGE TO HERMAN CREEK LOOP (ABOUT 26 MILES INCLUDING BRIEF HIKE TO THE TOP OF CHINADERE MOUNTAIN):
I did this hike on June 24, 2008. This hike begins at Herman Creek were you follow the Herman bridge trail to the Pacific Crest trail and take that to Benson plateau. There are several nice gorge views on the way up (unfortunately I left my camera's memory card in my computer so I could only get pictures with my cell phone. It was a huge snow year and though the trail was clear of snow going up to the plateau from the north, there was pretty much total coverage of snow from above 3800 feet to 4400 feet at the high point of the plateau where there was still over two feet of snow in late June. From Benson plateau follow the PCT along a ridge which offers some nice views of the mountains in the Mark Hatfield Wilderness. After a few miles the trail winds around Mount Chinadere (hopefully spelled correctly) for a total of about 12 miles from the trailhead. The ridgeline was relatively free of snow but once I got to the forests on the mountain (which provide shade from the sun) there was much snow. There were no tracks going up the mountain but it is about .4 miles and you just go up. The slopes are steep and with all the snow it made it difficult going up as I had to have to hike up in sideways zigzag motions. Going down there was no way to find the Herman Creek trail junction without a gps and known way points (my memory was not good enough to find it in 3 feet of snow). I instead decided to use a map and compass to meet the Herman Creek trail somewhere near the river. This was easy on snow but after I got below the snow it was almost like hiking through the jungle down a very steep mountain.
I didn't know if I was above or below the trail so I decided to go to the river and follow it hopefully meeting the trail when it crosses Herman Creek. The trail crosses from the west side of Herman creek to the east side about 8 miles from the trailhead. After much bushwhacking and going through thistles I ran into one of many obstacles where I couldn't go further do to the terrain so I began crossing the river and going till terrain got to tough again and often hiking up the tomlike mountain thinking that the trail was above me and I would meet it below the snow. This only succeeded in draining every muscle in my body as I was hiking up 50+ degree angles with huge fallen trees (rainforest caliber in size) and brush everywhere then climbing up then down and up again bypassing obstacles that cannot be hiked up (like rock ledges). With no luck I kept hiking north along the creek until I was absolutely positive I was passed the spot where the trail crossed the river onto the east side. When there was no doubt in my mind I hiked up the mountains on the east side, where I knew the trail was maintained. After bushwhacking up through the jungle I decided that following a creek would be easier. Just as I felt I had nothing left in me I saw that recognizable tiny gap between plants and trees 20 feet above me. This was the trail and a welcome site as my muscles were beginning to cramp everywhere. This really is a beautiful hike especially when snow is melted and there is no cross country travel (very difficult in the steep mountain of the gorge especially in the section with old growth like Herman Creek). It can be done in a day if you are in good shape and start early enough. I started at about 7am and arrived back at the trailhead by about 6pm (I was off trail for about 3 hours including over 2 hours of bushwhacking) so there was plenty of time though I kept a good pace and did spend 1/2 hour on top of Mount Chinadere.
