Settebello


140 Green Valley Parkway, in Henderson (last visit: April 2006).
Pizza.


This is a new pizza place that has garnered a lot of attention.  To quote from its web site, it brings "...authentic Napoli style pizza to the Las Vegas area.  Owner Brad Otton was trained as a pizzaiolo in Napoli by renowned pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia." You get the idea.

I got there around noon on a weekday, and there was a pretty good crowd; not full, but lively.  It's an informal place, with a glazed cement floor, dark brown with some black in a square geometric pattern.  The simple wood tables are completely bare.  An open kitchen contains a large wood burning pizza oven.  Fans attached to the black industrial ceiling provide air circulation.  Lots of windows give the place a bright and airy feeling.

I tried the eponymous Settebello pizza:  crushed tomatoes, pancetta, sausage, mushrooms, pine nuts, mozzarella, basil, and olive oil.  The crust was thin and chewy, with black char spots on the bottom.  And the flavor!  I could have eaten the crust alone.  The crushed tomatoes tasted fresh, as did the mushrooms.  Small amounts of mozzarella and other toppings served as an accent to the crust.  This is one very good pizza.

Settebello pizzas are very different from the standard American pizza.  At Settebello, the crust is the star.  Toppings, including cheese, are applied sparingly; they play a supporting role.  I think this has disappointed some people, who came expecting one thing and got another.

Settebello is a good 20 minute drive from The Strip.  No pizza place is worth that kind of drive, but if you're nearby, it's definitely worth searching out.

Cost:  A pizza, large enough for one hungry person, costs about $15.



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