Under TGIF Section December 28^th , 2001

Here's my list of the top-10 restaurants reviewed in 2001. Tough year for restaurants - and all of us.

1. Szmania's Kirkland, 148 Lake St. S., Kirkland, 1-425-803-3310: A no-brainer. Szmania's comfortable new restaurant in downtown Kirkland was easily the best place I reviewed in 2001. Owner-chef Ludger Szmania tweaked the Northwest-Bavarian menu from the original Szmania's in Seattle's Magnolia neighborhood. He and his wife, Julie, hired an eager service staff. The new store is a wonderful space, with tawny tints and a copper fireplace, where diners can have conversations without bombardment by music or concepts. And the kicker is prices that are below the high range of big-time Seattle restaurants.

2. Altezzo at Sheraton Tacoma Hotel, 1320 Broadway Plaza, Tacoma, 253-591-4155: Locals have been reluctant to park in the covered garage, walk through the hotel and take an elevator to the 26th floor. They'll find fine service, gorgeous views and an Italy-goes-Northwest menu that is excellent and affordable. Two humble talents, executive chef Daniel O'Leary and chef de cuisine James Vande Berg have taken this lofty dining room to new heights. Be sure to leave room for dessert. They're among the best in the South Sound.

3. Etta's Seafood, 2020 Western Ave., Seattle, 206-443-6000: Loretta Rodothea Douglas is 12, attends school in Seattle and is that rare child who has a restaurant named for her. This is the most approachable of the three restaurants owned by her mom, Jackie Cross, and her famous father, Tom Douglas, who is a paragon of the Seattle dining scene. Etta's is a delicious and unpretentious restaurant. A solid menu of fish is punctuated by the best chowder in the city. And the Douglas touch is evident in the breads and terrific desserts.

4. Europa Bistro, 2515 N. Proctor St., Tacoma, 253-761-5660: Despite a loud and uncomfortably small dining room, owners Justine and Alfredo Russo have succeeded at transforming a dingy tavern into a Proctor destination for dining. Chef Alfredo's lavish skills illuminate Tacoma's dining scene. He is especially adept at cooking meat in sauces whose recipes have been passed down in his family from Naples.

5. Saito's Japanese Cafe & Bar, 2122 Second Ave., Seattle, 206-728-1333: Owner-chef Yutaka Saito and his wife, Anita, offer reasonable sushi prices, 45 different sakes and no aversion to exotic fish and unusual dishes. A fun restaurant. Late on summer nights, Saito's is illuminated by the tall presence of ace Mariners relief pitcher Kazuhiro Sasaki, who likes to get his post-game sake and sushi here. Nice restaurant.

6. Piatti, 2800 N.E. University Village, Seattle, 206-524-9088: A franchise restaurant from California's wine country, Piatti does not look or feel like a franchise restaurant. This is a vibrantly mellow restaurant with a snazzy Italian menu, cool little pizzas and a hot management concept. GM Travis Rosenthal is allowed to shape Piatti to local tastes. It works!

7. Fire Creek Grill at Riverbend Golf Complex, 2019 W. Meeker St., Kent, 253-856-5170: Chef Dan Bobo has a Culinary Institute of America degree and a creative menu at one of the best restaurants you'll ever find at a public golf course. Good burgers, sandwiches, salads and fish specials. Low prices for such high- quality food.

8. Sterling Cafe, 2614 N.E. 55th St., Seattle, 206-522-3011: Organic food does not have to be prissy. Everything in chef Don Wilson's restaurants has been grown organically - meaning no pesticides, growth hormones, antibiotics, synthetics, fertilizers or flavor enhancers. Wilson's menu offers organically raised beef, fish and fowl, plus the usual line of salads and munches. One of Washington state's best organic restaurants.

9. Kabuki, 2919 S. 38th St., Tacoma, 253-474-1650: In February, owners Joe Kosai and Kazuko MacKinnon will celebrate their 10th anniversary at this quiet Japanese restaurant just north of Tacoma Mall. The $20.95 lobster dinners are a notable value. A relaxing restaurant that does not ask much of its customers.

10. Le-Le, 1012 S. Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tacoma, 253-572-9491: Tuc T. Dinh, who was the original chef at East & West Cafe in Tacoma, is cooking wonderful Vietnamese dishes at this Hilltop restaurant run by her daughter Le-Le and son-in-law Andy Tran. Fresh spring rolls, Vietnamese salad bowls and Asian curries highlight the inexpensive menu. A bonus - smokers recently were kicked out.

© The News Tribune

12/28/2001