Las Vegas Trip Report
June 29 - July 6, 2005

My last trip to Vegas was just two months ago, and I have another trip scheduled in September - but I believe in immediate gratification, and September is just too far away.  This trip was different than the norm - shorter, with not so many things packed into each day.  My plan was to lie around the pool, gamble a little, eat a lot, and pretty much be a bum.  Thus, the majority of the report is about restaurants - but I'll save that for last.

One reason I didn't plan a bunch of activities: this time of year, Las Vegas tends to be a trifle warm.  As luck would have it, the weather was even a little bit warmer than average.  Most days the high was 106 or 107.  That was the official temperature at the airport.  According to the news, the Strip temperature was closer to 109.  But hey, it could be worse - Death Valley was 124 on June 30.  And, it's a dry heat; when it was 107 degrees on June 30, the dew point was 15.  I've always felt that baking was better than steaming.

It's a strange feeling to be outside when it's that hot and dry.  You don't feel yourself sweating, because sweat evaporates so quickly.  The air is so hot, breezes just make you feel hotter.  My approach: always carry a water bottle, and keep sipping almost continually.  Make sure to buy more bottles of water along the way - it's a good excuse to get out of the sun and cool off.

» Heard on the local news -or- how to sound like a local:  it's Ne-vaa-da; the "a" in the middle syllable sounds like "hat".  The state even has a license plate saying Nevǎda (note the symbol above the "a").

Hotel

My hotel was the Mirage.  I've stayed at the Mirage before, and liked it.  This time I got a pretty good rate, so I returned.  Like last time, check-in took just a couple of minutes.  I had a pool view room on the 14th floor (14109); it also provided a partial view of  the Strip:

   

There were two other reasons I chose the Mirage. The first is location.  I like a location center strip, especially in the summer, so that I can  easily wander among the hotels.  The Mirage is a little too far north, but it's still possible to avoid the worst of the heat.  To travel south, take the Mirage's south exit (near the tiger exhibit), and immediately enter Caesars Palace.  It's possible, via a serpentine route, to walk all the way through Caesars from north to south, exit, and walk just a few hundred feet to Bellagio's north entrance.  Walk all the way through Bellagio, and you can take a tram to Monte Carlo.  If you want to go further south still, you'll have to walk to the Excalibur (possibly through New York New York, but I'm not sure), and take a tram from there to The Luxor or Mandalay Bay.  Tricky, but better than being out in the hot sun.

The second reason is the pool.  Mirage has one of the better pools in Vegas.  For those wishing to avoid the sun, it's possible to snag a chair under some palm trees.  However, be prepared to wake up early.  In July, the pool opens at 7 am.  By 8 am, there are very few chairs left.  People get there a little before 7 am, put towels and miscellaneous paraphernalia on their chairs to reserve them, and then leave; they may not return for hours.  This isn't supposed to be done, but...

Finally, what's a report on The Mirage without a white tiger?


 

Shows and Miscellaneous Activities

·        Havana Night Club - The Show.  At the Stardust Hotel.  Originally from Cuba, this troupe of about 50 singers, dancers, and musicians defected in 2004.  Their show recalls Havana night clubs in the 1940s and 1950s.  Just the kind of show I'd be glad to skip...which would have been a mistake.  The show is  a little bit corny, but mostly it's dancing and singing that's just full of energy.  I had a great time.  Show ends September 4.

 

·        Gameworks.  I used to be a pinball wizard (yes, pinball, which should give you an idea of my age), and went for video games as well.  However, I haven't played them in years, and wanted to see how things have progressed.  Gameworks is an interesting place.  In addition to video games (and the occasional pinball machine), they have food, a bar, and a rock climbing wall (or walls).  One video game is called "Virtual Arena."  This is a martial arts game.  The goal is to defeat the computer controlled opponent.  The player stands in an area that is somehow monitored.  He controls his "person" by performing physical moves:  step forward; step backward, crouch; kick; jump; punch.  A real workout!

The rock climbing wall is 75 feet tall.  I saw some very young children climbing.  One looked to be no more than five or six years old - barely at the 40 pound minimum weight requirement.  She did pretty well.  I saw an older guy scale a more difficult climb, involving some areas that went past vertical.  They used two carabiners to connect harness to rope, presumably for safety.

Gambling

I tried craps for the first time last trip, and am hooked.  Fortunately I'm a low roller, because I not only lost my budgeted amount, but lost quickly.  It was as if the gambling gods were laughing at me.  "You really expected to win again? Ha!"

Food

·        Okada.  This is the second time I've eaten at Okada, a Japanese restaurant and sushi bar at Wynn Las Vegas.  If you read my previous trip report, then you know how much I liked Okada's sushi bar the first time - subject to a concern about being able to order directly from the sushi chefs.  Good news! The server will offer to take your order, but you may order directly from the sushi chef should you so desire.  Also as noted previously, it's a bit cheaper than its competitors Hyakumi and Shintaro.

If anything, I enjoyed this meal even more than the first.  Now that it's been open for a couple of months, things seem to run more smoothly.  The sushi chefs are still personable, the view is still great, and the sushi is still top notch.  I didn't write down everything, but I remember ordering: o-toro/tuna belly sashimi (rich, smooth, full of flavor); aji/mackeral (an oily fish with good, strong flavor); awabi/abalone (good, but not quite as good as last time - it was a little bit too chewy); hamachi/yellowtail (rich, flavorful); uni/sea urchin (fresh and firm); kanpachi/young yellowtail (leaner than hamachi); spicy tuna hand roll (a surprise, it was much better than I've had elsewhere - lots of high quality tuna went into this roll).  The chef also gave me a sampler of natto - fermented soybeans.  I was a little hesitant, as I had heard natto was slimy and smelly.  Well, it isn't really slimy - it's actually pretty good.  He served it cold, mixing in some spices, and a pinch of sugar for crunch.  I'll have to try it again.

Okada is definitely my favorite sushi bar in Vegas.  Next time I hope to try the regular menu as well.

·        Sushi Roku.  At Caesars Palace.  This is a small California based chain.  The atmosphere at the sushi bar is OK but needs work.  For example, when you first arrive, you are greeted loudly (good).  However, after that most of the sushi chefs are silent.  Only one chef (left most, perhaps the most senior) was a little talkative.  On the positive side, the patrons were very friendly; I don't know if this is normal, or was just a coincidence.

I had: ankimo/monkfish liver pate (five medium slices; firm, with a very rich texture; excellent); uni/sea urchin (pretty good, but wasn't as firm or tasty as it could be); ama-ebi/raw shrimp (good; the heads were served tempura style, but were not as juicy or as crispy as they should be); awabi/abalone (good); unagi/eel (standard; should have been hotter and a little crisp); hamachi (good).

The sushi was generally very good, but not quite up to the standards of Hyakumi or Okada.  It was cheaper than Hyakumi but no cheaper than Okada.  Keep in mind that I'm comparing Sushi Roku to my two favorite sushi bars in all of Las Vegas.  I think I'd be inclined to return to Sushi Roku, and order some of the more interesting sounding rolls and appetizers, e.g., smoked salmon-wrapped monkfish liver with caviar, toro, and sea urchin.  These might be its strong point.

·        Daniel Boulud.  At The Wynn.  I made a reservation well in advance, just to be safe.  When I arrived (a solo diner), I was offered a table in the dining room, or one in the bar/lounge.  They clearly wanted me to eat in the bar, stating there would be a wait if I wanted a table in the dining room (even though I had a reservation).  One big strike against the restaurant.  I looked in the bar, and decided that a table there looked pretty good, so I accepted - my mistake.  I forgot that I'd miss the water show.  Oh well.

Service was friendly and mostly efficient, but with a few rough edges.  I was never asked if I wanted water.  My appetizer was served and only later did bread and wine arrive; they seemed flustered when a large party arrived.  Hopefully this will be sorted out in the next few months.

The food saved the evening.  I started with an appetizer of roasted beet salad with blue cheese, endives and walnuts.  I'm not a big beet fan, but wanted something light and this sounded interesting.  I'm glad I ordered it.  The dish consisted of wedges of red and white beets, a puree of blue cheese, endive leaves, and some walnuts that were slightly crunchy.  It's a fine combination of contrasting flavors and textures.

For the main course, I had oregano braised veal cheeks and sweetbread schnitzel, with carrots and broccoli rabe.  The sweetbreads were served as a fried slab with a crunchy coating; very good.  Now (drum roll please) on to the veal cheeks.  Wow!  Tender, cut-with-a-fork, full of flavor, with a rich sauce.  This is one of my favorite dishes in recent memory.

Finally, dessert was a warm milk chocolate fondant, with vanilla ice cream.  This is a dessert with a crisp cake/cookie-type of shell, filled with a milk chocolate and hazelnut paste.  It was excellent (not quite as good as the similar dessert at Picasso, in an earlier trip report, but close).

If they can improve the service, this place could be a real winner.

·        Commander's Palace.  At Aladdin Resort.  I like this place.  It provided an interesting contrast to Daniel Boulud with respect to service.  When I arrived, I was offered a table at the bar or in the restaurant.   "We have both available".  I chose the restaurant.  Service was efficient and friendly throughout the meal.

The waiter was great.  He was friendly, and explained the menu and the day's specials.  I expressed interest in the tasting menu, so he spent a lot of time describing each of the courses.  I eventually decided to go with the tasting menu, and the wine pairing as well.  Throughout the meal, the waiter, and others as well, were careful to explain each course as it was presented, and also checked with me as to the timing of the meal (too fast? too slow?).

Now, before I get to the food, let me provide a warning to anyone thinking of getting the tasting menu.  It's a huge amount of food.  Each of the seven courses is pretty big - and of course there's the complimentary praline after dinner.  Don't eat more than half of each course.  The same is true for the wine pairing.  Yes, there are seven glasses of wine as well, and they seemed pretty generous - more than the one and one half ounces I'd expect.

At last, the food.  The first course was Tabasco Mash Cured and Smoked Salmon Club Sandwich (I know all the courses' names because the chef gave me a signed copy of the menu).  It's a high class BLT, using salmon smoked at the restaurant, crispy prosciutto, lettuce, tomato, and garlic bread.  Very good.

Course 2: Crispy Softshell Crab.  Coated with cornmeal, it was very crunchy.  However, the coating was so thick that it hid the delicate crab flavor.  Good, but not great.

Course 3: Roasted Foie Gras Gumbo.  A gumbo with foie gras, andouille sausage, and wild mushrooms?  Strange, but it works.  The soup is dark, rich, and spicy.  The foie gras doesn't stand out, but contributes to the flavor.  Excellent.

Course 4: Pacific Seabass with Louisiana Crawfish.  My favorite course.  The fish was crispy on the outside, but very moist within.  The crawfish were tender, and the lemongrass beurre blanc gave everything a wonderful flavor.

Course 5: Petit Filet Mignon with Black Tiger Prawn.  Served with smashed potatoes and, as a special bonus (the chef does that sometimes), a boudin of ground buffalo and rice.  I'm not sure I can fairly judge this course.  At this point I was getting so full that the amount of food on the plate was intimidating.  The meat seemed perfectly cooked, and had good flavor, and the boudin - basically a fancy sausage with in-house smoked buffalo - had excellent flavor.  It probably rates a very good.

Course 6: Chef's Selection of Cheeses.  Four cheeses, whose names I forgot to write down.  I'm no cheese expert, but I enjoyed all four.

Course 7: Red, White and Blue Crepes.  Crepes with fresh blueberries and strawberries macerated in port wine, topped with walnut liqueur.  Served cold.  This didn't sound very good to me.  I was wrong.  Very good indeed!

Here's a picture of the (paper) menu that came with the meal.

·        Bouchon.  At The Venetian.  I had breakfast here twice.  The first time I had yogurt parfait and a special-of-the-day blueberry muffin.  The yogurt parfait consisted of rich and creamy yogurt, crunchy home made granola, and fresh berries that were unfortunately unripe and too sour.  The blueberry muffin was excellent: dense, with lots of blueberry flavor, and a crunchy top.  The second time I had Boudin Blanc (white sausage) with scrambled eggs, and a croissant.  The large sausage link had a soft, smooth texture, with a very strong meaty flavor - a winner.  The eggs were pretty much standard scrambled eggs.  The croissant was light, flaky and hot - another winner.  I've seen Bouchon described as the most beautiful in Las Vegas.  I wouldn't go that far, but it is pretty.

·        Noodle Kitchen.  At The Mirage.   I had dim sum for lunch on two occasions.  It was very good each time.  To get to the restaurant, you have to walk through the buffet, which is a little strange.  There's also some noise floating in from the buffet.  On the positive side, tables are nicely spread out.  This is a chopsticks only place, although I assume one can ask for silverware.

Dim sum is ordered from the menu, not from rolling carts.  There were a number of familiar choices, and some not so familiar, at least to me.  My favorites were: shrimp dumplings (small whole shrimp in a translucent wrapper; very tender and flavorful); glutinous rice in a lotus leaf (a rectangle of soft, sticky rice, with bits of barbecued pork, dried shrimp, and Chinese sausage, wrapped in a lotus leaf); fried shrimp balls (balls of ground shrimp, covered in long strands of thin, flat [rice?] noodles, fried until crisp; looks like an octopus with too many arms; hard to handle, but very tasty).

·        Toby Keith's I Love This Bar & Grill.  At Harrah's.  What can I say?  I had to check out this new place, and try a fried bologna sandwich.  The restaurant's walls are covered with photos and Toby Keith memorabilia.  There are a number of televisions, showing either sports or Toby Keith in concert.  Waitresses are uniformly thin, wear tight leather mini-skirts and white halter tops, call everyone "hon" and are terminally cheerful.

The food is OK.  The fried bologna sandwich consists of a thick slab of pretty good bologna, lightly fried, with caramelized onions, American cheese, lettuce, and tomato, on Texas garlic bread.  If you like greasy food (like me), it's not bad.  For dessert, the sweet potato pecan pie with bourbon ice cream was a disappointment.  The combination of the two kinds of pie sounds like a good idea, but neither of the fillings was especially good.  On the other hand, the ice cream was very rich, a big plus.  Cola was served in a large mason jar.  I'm glad I went once, but don't plan to return.

·        Carnegie Deli.  At The Mirage.  Same as last trip - mediocre.  Potato latkes were large, greasy, and crispy on the outside, but the potato was the consistency of mashed potatoes.  Cheese blintzes were OK, but not good enough to order again.  Why do I keep going to this place?

·        Canter's Deli.  At Treasure Island.  The hot pastrami sandwich was better than I remembered.  The pastrami was warm, juicy, and flavorful.  The rye bread was thick cut, dense, with a chewy crust.  Much better than Carnegie, although the sandwiches at Canter's are merely very large, compared to Carnegie's gargantuan offerings.

·        Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak, and Stone Crab.  At Caesars Palace.  This is part of a small chain, based in Miami Beach.  I had lunch here.  Service was inconsistent.  The initial greeting was friendly, and I was seated quickly.  Water was quickly offered, and a very good bread basket arrived shortly thereafter.  However, the server took a long time to bring me a menu, and seemed in a hurry.  This slow-to-return then in-a-hurry attitude would recur.  Oh yeah, I was never even offered dessert, just handed the check.  Isn't this place famous for its key lime pie?

I had never had stone crabs, so I gave them a try as an appetizer.  They were OK, but I guess I'm not a fan.  Also, I thought Joe's was known for its mustard sauce.  None was provided.  One nice touch: after I was finished, an assistant came by with a lemon, and squeezed the juice over my hands into a waiting bowl.  He then gave me a hot, wet towel.  Much appreciated.

I had glazed black cod as an entree.  It was a big piece of wonderfully moist, flaky fish.  The glaze was excellent.  A trifle sweet, it began to cloy after a few bites.  Not to worry - half a lemon was provided; the juice made the sauce perfect.  On the other hand, I could have done without the pedestrian french fried sweet potatoes.

·        Jean-Philippe Pâtisserie.  At The Bellagio.  When I went to Vegas in April, I ate here several times - great pastries.  I didn't eat here this time, but wanted to include a picture of its chocolate fountain:

   

 

Home