If you have a scan, please help. My email address is josh@joshkaplan.com .

Look closely, and you'll see someone rubbered the playfield in black, yeech.

The cabinet's in pretty good shape, even with a few scuffs. This may be the original paint.

Here's a closer look at the playfield after I got the game home. Again, all black playfield rubbers, and also the right flipper is wrong. It appears to be a Williams flipper from that era. Look at the bumper on the upper right, and you'll notice a chunk of it is gone. That will magically disappear as you'll see in later pics.

Nevertheless, not a bad playfield.

Here's a closeup shot of the bumpers. You can see a chunk of the upper right bumper body has been removed. Also, the aluminum bumper skirts are dull.

Another shot of the playfield, before I took it apart, and cleaned everything. The rebound rubber at the top of the playfield is dry rotted. That's gonna go too.

The rebound rubber. As you can see, it's shot.

The score reels are filthy.

Windex and qtips will take care of that.

Here's the playfield after it's been totally stripped, waxed a few times with Johnson's Paste Wax, each part cleaned and polished, and totally rerubbered. Notice the flash from my camera at the top of the playfield is almost blinding, compared to the shot above, when the playfield hadn't been cleaned. For the playfield rods, I used 000 steel wool to polish away the rust. Then, I used Mother's chrome polish to really bring out that shine.

Here's where the playfield is traditionally labeled. You don't get to see this normally, because the playfield apron covers this up.

Here's something I don't do everyday. Installed a brand new pair of flippers. The right flipper was a Williams flipper as I mentioned, and the left one was worn out, with the ink badly smeared.

A shot of the rerubbered playfield with the playfield apron back in place.

Here's the score reels after I cleaned them. If you use Windex, or any kind of spray to clean the reels, rub very very lightly over those numbers, or the ink will run. It's especially true on 70's Bally pins, when they switched to more fragile reels.

Still looking for that instruction card

Ok, so where did the broken bumper body go? It's still there. I desoldered the bumper and lamp wires, turned the body around, so the cracked part is no longer visible. The aluminum skirts now shine quite nicely too.

Look closely in the upper right corner, and you can see the ball wear around the arch. It's much harder to spot now. I used 0000 steel wool to remove the black mark, so you really have to look closely for it.

The ball hits this bumper and lands in the free ball lane. If all three targets have been hit, the gate further down will be open, the ball will trip a switch, a letter will light on the backglass, and the ball will return back to the plunger, which counts as a free ball.

A closeup of the backglass. It's been touched up in spots, around all match numbers and the woman, which doesn't show up in the pics but it's definately there.

Hootenanny by night

Notice the red glow at the top right and left of the playfield. These are actually #47 clear bulbs inside red sleeves. When I got this pin, all four bulbs were burned out, and the two lights on the right didn't work. The wire underneath that went to these bulbs had popped loose from it's solder joint. But as you can see, they work great now.

The ball lift and ball shooter handles have been cleaned and polished as best I could.

I put a new spring on the plunger handle, instead of cleaning the old rusted spring.

The coin door was repainted by a previous owner. The game is set for free play, and all the coin door guts inside have been removed. For now, it's ok, but I may eventually convert the coin door back to it's original setup.

Don't do this.

If you tilt, it's not just one lost ball, it's the whole game.